Currently I'm focusing on finishing the templates we're using to create the panels. Three more videos are about to come to this topic. Then I will create some panels of the overhead panel. When I candetermine how large the overhead panel will be I will create a frame to mount the panels to. (3D printed parts and aluminum tubes) Then the frequently used parts from the pedestal will follow. The pedestal itself will be a wooden frame. Best regards, Tom

I am glad that I could help you!

You're welcome! Thank you for the nice conversation on this topic. I'm sure you weren't the only one who had these questions. Happy New Year by the way!

Can you please link the Button you use? I have build something Like that but i used a momentary Button and this does not work with mobiflight!

@Raphihockey This is the switch, please order the self locking version: de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006291159061.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.18.713e5c5fuf7tjR&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu Actually there is a way to trigger a latching event witch a momentary switch. I'll do a video about it. It's a nice topic in "advanced" MobiFlight. Thank you!

@ Great when Can i expect the Video?

Sorry for the delay. I was very sick over the past week and the holidays but now I'm back on track with TOGA ;-)

www.dasfilament.de/filament-refill/pla-1-75-mm/284/pla-filament-1-75-mm-natur-refill-800-g?c=54

Please have a look on the backlight video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHXOp2Skepp8edU

Oh, that is really embarrassing. But thank you very much for the pointer. 👍

It's a generic prototype board cut to size.

www.3djake.de/elegoo/pla-clear-2

@ Thank you Sir, much appreciated!

The lower ring is pushing against the bottom part of the panel. The Korry is "sandwiched" between the two panel shells without the need of screws or glue. Be patient my friend. It will make sense very soon!

@@TheCockpitPrinterYes that’s what I thought, but I expected the the second ring to be up the other way… as you say, I’m sure it will become clear soon, thanks 👍🏻

@ that is a really good point and makes a lot of sense. But with a flat surface an the bottom of the ring you have to add some support structures during printing. The chamfer doesn’t make a difference in the functionality but saves the support structure. The lower ring will completely be hidden by the bottom panel to create enough space for the LED strips.

@@TheCockpitPrinterthat makes perfect sense 👍🏻

It will be available to supporters on patreon very soon.

Maybe we need a little bit of glue to fix the cirquit board. ;-)

Thank you very much! I'm happy to have you on board and my videos are usefull to you! You don't need a specific kind of printer to print your cockpit. I only use PLA which is very easy to print an doesn't require an eclosure. Even on entry level printers it should succeed. But if you want to get the highest level of detail with the labels on the panels you definitly need a multicolor printer. I always recommend the Bambulab printers. Even the A1 creates a great level of detail. (I don't get money from bambulab) In addition to that the software provided by bambulab is exceptional. You don't have to care about all the parameters and need dozends of failed prints until you have your first successfully printed part. For the displays my plan is to use cheap tablets an connect them with spacedesk via wifi. The PFD and ECAM can be created as a pop out window by pressing altgr and click into the screen you want to pop out. This is by far the easiest way to my knowledge.

@ thank you, highly appreciated

As always I forgot the most important part. 🙈 It‘s warm white!

Great to have you on board! 🙂 The Wingwings Parts are great but I will show you how to create the rest of the cockpit! ;-)

Please have a look in the description. There are all the materials listed I'm using in this video. Regards

@ oh I am so sorry. I thought I looked but apparently I did not 😂 Thanks!

@@bastianhundt Not a problem at all. You're welcome! 🙂

@@krispex1974 it will change your life! I promise! I will never sell it. (Except for buying another) 😉

@@adambartlett7087 of course I do! But I want to build some of the panels first. My focus right now is on the overhead Panel. After that I will build the pedrstal and the glareshield.

@@SimFighter1903 www.3djake.de/r3d/pla-transparent-3

I'm using a refill PLA from a german supplier with their reusable spool. www.dasfilament.de/filament-refill/pla-1-75-mm/284/pla-filament-1-75-mm-natur-refill-800-g?c=54 But it doesn't matter. Any Clear PLA should do the job. Personally I would order the R3D filament due to the cardboard spool ;-)

Thank you for the pointer! I allready fixed it! I tried different variations in the design. But the "two piece" design worked the best. It's easy to install the backlight and it's fully encapsulated so no light will bleed through.

@@TheCockpitPrinter Another idea I have in mind is that the "islands" of the letters are tiny and are only attached to the transparent layer - I don't know whether this will hold in the long term. Perhaps a transparent layer of 0.2 mm could also be placed on the back of the top panel so that the "islands" are enclosed at the top and bottom, like a sandwich.

​@@Martin-xo9oj I love that idea and will try it soon!

Hey Andrew! It's a little bit of work but it will save so much time later in the series. I'm happy that you like the approach and know about the advantages!

I'll definitely give it a try! Thanks for the suggestion!

The overall process is what motivates me the most. I am a much better engineer than a "pilot". ;-)

It's clear filament from a german supplier: www.dasfilament.de/filament-spulen/pla-1-75-mm/5/pla-filament-1-75-mm-natur?c=11 But a generic PLA from more known brands like the Elegoo will work as well and are more available in other countries: www.3djake.de/elegoo/pla-clear-1

Thank you so much! I don't know why everybody is building a 737!? I would be too afraid that suddenly my front door falls out ;-)

For having the labels in there you have to use a multicolour Printer. But with no labels on it should work great on an ender.

@@TheCockpitPrinter my idea was to print the labels separate and place them later on

Man, I l'm so happy that this series is fun to you! I made the same experience when I first connected a switch to the sim. I pressed it for hours.... 😅 As you see it isn't that complicated. But it's very important to do it step by step. Otherwise it's just intimidating and frustrating very quickly. Keep going! 👍

www.dasfilament.de/filament-spulen/pla-1-75-mm/5/pla-filament-1-75-mm-natur?c=11

de.aliexpress.com/item/4000598302546.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.38.48175c5fscbwz6&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

I ordered my switches some time ago but unfortunately it's not available anymore. But I foud similar toggle switches on aliexpress. Not the best source but at least available.

I love your excitement for this project! Keep on going! The next video will come soon

Thank you so much! I don't want you to watch me building MY cockpit. I want you to be able to build YOURS! ;-)

Thank you very much. I'm glad to have you on this chanel!

Thank you very much! We are just using PLA. Printing on the A1 should be no problem. The build volume is with 256x256x256mm identical to the P1S

Welcome to the chanel! It was the right decision to buy a 3D Printer. Nut just for building a cockpit. I used 0.25mm2 wire. It's between AWG 22 and AWG 23.