Thanks, silly question - is it easy to tell if the seat base has sagged? My seats seem in pretty good shape to the point where I was in 2 minds about replacing them having done many long journeys in comfort.

@@ant76og22 blimey that’s inflation for you.

@@leeevernden mines currently there having the 3.7 capacity increase, I've not had nowhere near the amount of extra work you had done & my bill is 19k.

Thanks! I started stage 1 on the Saturday morning and finished the final stage Sunday afternoon so 2 days work. But I had already removed the seats from the car, cleaned them and masked them ready beforehand. The kit starts from £60 for the small. I got the large with the repair add on so mine was £150. Link to the kit is in the description which will tell you how much you can do with each size of kit. I got the large because I did loads more stuff which will be covered in the next 2 episodes.

Good stuff! Again, seats look amazing. I imagine you could sell those off for a decent profit.

@@K1dPhresh1thanks and yes I imagine I could recover the costs from the other seats I bought when I sell them, at the moment they are just sitting in my spare room looking pretty.

Cheers Mark 🙂

Thanks, and yeah patience is key for this sort of thing but the heat gun helps shorten the process from weeks to days.

@@jambom33 yeah I still see people do that, without sealer it doesn’t look good for very long! I love metropole blue, stay tuned for the next 2 episodes as I recolour a few things from black to blue(with sealer as well of course 🙂)

@@bamog4560 thank you 🙂

Thanks!

@@maximgoodings7563 yes it’s always a good idea to declare to insurance, it’s hard to tell if this had a massive difference or not in my premium though as insurance costs have gone up anyway over the last 2 years.

@@leeevernden thanks Lee. I had a cursory look and selecting bored out engine or engine mods increases the premium by 3x. Looks like it might be one for having a chat around. Are you with a specialist like Adrian flux?

@@maximgoodings7563 I'm with performance direct now - who obviously don't seem to care that much about mods. I've just checked my premiums and a couple of years ago as a 3.4 it was £300pa, now it's £445pa. Some of that rise will be inflationary and some would be the engine.

Thanks for taking the time to explain!! Love the content

@@maximgoodings7563 Thanks, my pleasure. 2 more videos in editing so coming very soon hopefully.

I think it would have been October sometime, certainly it has performed a lot better before that day. I’ve changed coils and spark plugs since.

@@speedyben welcome! Still a work in progress this car, I’m upgrading the interior now so video to come on that soon, after that, handling and then exhaust so plenty still to do.

Absolutely, the m96 has a great character and makes some lovely noises. Definitely worth consideration.

Just check StreetBandido green Porsche from a few days ago. The crate racing engines you can buy in USA with warranty are absolutely mind blowing.

Its this - magnumpowers.com/product/mps-eaton-rotors-pack-abradable-coating

@@marshallsonmotorsltd2101 yes please! Are you the garage in Walsall?

That’s us 👍

@@marshallsonmotorsltd2101 thanks, I’ve sent you an email.

Thanks for the info, could have certainly done with this before starting but could only find the info saying there are 3 different colour wires. TBH I did this so long ago I can't remember when I switched the wires round, during the job or a while after but I did have to swap the wires round. The fan operation has been tested twice since, once at Friends Green and once at Hartech and they have reported they are functioning correctly on both speeds. But now I'm doubting myself I will look into this again. QQ - if I test again using the jump cable in each of the 4 relay sockets to test both fans at both speeds is that enough - ie if all tests OK here does that prove the wiring is correct? I will also put metal ties on.

Cheers!

They are available from Andy - [email protected] . They essentially remove the rubber bits on the drop links, this does remove some of the compliance with the ride but does improve the stability when cornering. In my view it just helps the suspension manage weight transfer a bit better.

Agreed, I don't know how that wasn't a fire, it left a puddle of molten rubber/plastic on the ground.

For you anytime mate 🙂

Thanks Marcus, owning yours from new is amazing! I admire the commitment. Any major work required to yours in that time?

@@leeevernden Like many, I had the IMS bearing done on the recommendation of my mechanic back in 2011 and a rear main seal too. We put a new clutch in at the same time solely because the gearbox was out and he even told me that it hadn’t been necessary. I will add that even now I only have about 75,000 KMS on the clock which I realize is quite low (I’ve had five other daily drivers during the P-car’s life). However, I’m now retired and am committed to doing all the service work myself and recently completed a raft of work, culminating in the Numeric installation. Honestly, it’s been a very satisfying process. Fortunately (touch wood) I’ve had no significant problems. Now with the age of the car, there are jobs I’m looking at doing simply because of its age and not necessarily due to mileage. I’ll also likely be driving it more now too. Gotta say though, that increased torque you have with the Hartech conversion would be very tasty. Nicely done.

@@marcusslade9804 Thanks Marcus, and yes the extra torque is very nice. Looks like my car was one of the unlucky ones to have serious engine failure at 30k miles in 2009 and then a slightly botched repair job, but it worked out in the end. I do find this car is ok to work on, although being in the UK the rust particularly steel bolts going into the alloy subframe bits are a real problem. But certainly service work is easy and the numeric install was a breeze.

Glad it worked for you too, sounds like we had identical circumstances, to get mine up to over 90% I had to remove the kickdown switch, without that I was stuck at around 85% too. Makes such a huge difference from 60% though.

@@leeevernden that was my next question. But since I’ve got the automatic gearbox, I still need the kick down switch, right?

@@millskaviar correct yes. But it is adjustable as it’s mounted on a thread so can be wound in. You may need to disconnect the wires first though and I never figured that bit out.

@@leeevernden i will investigate 👍👍

Thanks, I do like that 4.2 V8!

You should have some play in the pedal/cable at first on these otherwise the throttle will always be a little bit open. If the car idles properly and you have 90-100% foot to the floor then you’re good, no issue. But if the play is excessive then yes you can dial some of it out with the adjuster closest to the pedal.

I see. Where can i buy that scan tool?

@@millskaviar​​⁠unfortunately I can’t find it anywhere for sale anymore. The good thing is that the ECU is really primitive so most live data scanners for older cars should work.

They are great engines they just like to surprise people with catastrophic failure every now and then is all.

@@leeevernden lol

I don't think I mention it but it's detailed a bit in the JayEmm feature - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYi0d4Cvjb-Ur6Msi=J49ZMxUP40Bo4A2f

If you have a basic socket set, 10mm and 8mm ratchet spanners(you don't need any 'E' sockets for the coils, a 12 sided 8mm ratchet spanner is the ideal tool to remove and refit the coils) and the special tool in the description it's really easy. Once the car is in the air it's around 20-30mins per side. Just watch this - kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYKZo2NsgbiZmcksi=vRWfdK6u7DGvSSN_

Thanks for the info, I had heard this was done for GDPR as you'd have all previous owners names and addresses so this made some sense to me, however I can't remember where I heard it now so can't confirm either way. I suppose another explaination might be that the previous owner put the car through auction knowing about the engine issue and didn't want to be traced by a new owner. I guess I'll never know.

@@leeevernden sadly not Lee, I’ve seen it blacked out, but it’s the dealer or vendor’s responsibility. So whilst it’s semantics it’s not the auction house shredding history. I have worked in the car auction industry for 15 years now.

@@russhopkins724 ok thanks again for the info.

agreed 🙂

Yeah it was a scare, never seen anything like that especially when the car wasn't even running at the time. And yes this could have been brewing for a while, it had felt a bit sluggish recently, I'll have to get some more stats soon. Not sure where you are but these videos are filmed around Royston, Bassingbourn, Baldock and Letchworth.

@@leeevernden I'm outside Barley village near Royston. I drive these roads and recognised the house opposite in your vid when you were doing spark plugs from many years ago when looking at properties! I've not bought a Porsche yet, looking at Caymans and 996/997, probably Cayman to try and get .2 car to avoid the engine rebuild stuff however the 4 seats of the 911 are more useful and the engine note of the non DFI cars sounds better. Do you go to Barrington on the Green at all? Thinking about attending when/if it stops raining. I've got a Corrado VR6 in dark purple/violet colour. Currently refreshing the rear axle with new parts/powder coating but will be back on the road in a month or so's time. If i see you I'll say hi or vice versa :) Matt

@@mattscars Oh you'll know exactly where I am then, those houses are pretty distinctive! If I had my time again I would have bought a car with a known/confirmed engine issue from the get go, I sort of did that with the 996 but I paid too much for it given the knock it had, not the end of the world as the plan was always to get a rebuild with some modifications but I could have played that better. Also the DFI engines are newer so they may not actually be anymore reliable as the older ones, it's just they need more time for things like bearings to go etc - Hartech have started to see more DFI cars come in for engine work recently. So I'm very happy with my reengineered M96, I would have been equally happy with a reengineered m97 too, but I bought at the peak of demand for 911s at the tail end of covid, lots more options on the market now at reasonable prices. Barrington - yes I went to pretty much every one last year, but the silver Carrera there was basically invisible so I pretty much took the Jag every time as that's much more of a crowd-pleaser. I will start to go again when the weather picks up so I will look out for you, I do like those Corrados especially in purple and with the VR6!

@@leeevernden Cheers Lee, good insight and thoughts re the DFI. WIll be good to bump into you at Barrington some time and chat. I'm not doing tongiht's even though the weather has improved since this morning. Creme de la creme for me would be just to buy one that had the work done. There as a blue 996 available at AMS for just under 18 that had the engine rebuilt already. Seemed good value in my mind.

@@mattscars Yeah I just spotted on the Barrington FB group the complaints about cars younger than 40 years old not being allowed on the green anymore! That sucks - however I will still go to the one in May and see what's what. I'll look out for you then. And yes getting one that's already had a rebuild is ideal, looks like someone may have snapped that blue one up already at AMS - I know I won't ever struggle to sell mine, someone will get a great deal when the time comes.

All knocks were taken care of by the rebuild, no nasty noises now.

@@leeevernden that’s good to hear, but from what you said in a previous video, Hartech didnt seem too concerned about it? I did find it interesting that it had engine work in the past but only one piston done! lol

@@Ussyb10 Hartech were just keen to point out that my engine didn't suffer from the usual suspects like misshapen cylinders, bore score, big end bearings etc so they couldn't be sure about where the knock was coming from and therefore not sure that a rebuild would fix it. The theory is that it was the 1 new piston that caused an imbalance on that side of the engine which led to small end bearing wear and caused the knock. But to be honest I had so much of the internals replaced we'll never know for sure what was causing it. And yeah I agree changing 1 piston is crazy, especially given that the piston wasn't the same part number as the others! Similar story elsewhere with this car though, like the radiator on one side corroded and failed so they just replaced that one - also pretty dumb as the one on the other side was not too far behind and the first thing to fail when I bought the car. The previous owner clearly loved the car but was not a car enthusiast I think it's fair to say.

@@leeevernden thanks for the comprehensive reply. Regarding radiators, i was guilty of changing on side on my boxster many years ago… a month later the other side went 😂😂. I have a 996 3.4 1998 now. Sold boxster last year. Mine does make a slight noise sometimes at idle, but it’s quieter than what I heard on yours and it’s not always there. The car has been to hartech before my ownership so I wasn’t too fussed. Now 3 years into ownership it seems to have gone with a different grade of oil. Thanks again and keep up the good content! Would have loved to buy a 3.7 996! Feel it’s the best of performance, rawness and practicality and lower road tax!

@@Ussyb10 When the 2nd rad went that must have been a FFS moment if you'd just done the 1st! And yeah I agree the 3.7 is all the 911 I'll ever need, it ticks all the boxes. 3.4 is great as well though. Hartech did also say a slight noise at idle is normal anyway, as there are a lot of things(tensioners etc) demanding oil pressure and at idle there just isn't quite enough oil pressure to go around, which is why they also say it's better to shut the engine off rather than to sit and let it idle for long periods. I've also heard running the AC all the time helps with this as that raises the idle rpms slightly, every little helps.

I think I used a standard stubby 3/8 extension and the special swivel spark plug socket, the ratchet and 8mm and 10mm spanners for the whole job. All in all it's only marginally more of a pain than my Jag as you have to jack the car up to do it, but you do get to lay down whilst doing the Porsche so it wins there too 😄

Makes sense, cheers !

7k miles since rebuild now. What bit of your engine failed?

@@leeevernden not sure yet still waiting for a spot

@@stuntcar Ahh ok good luck with it, hope there isn't too much damage to deal with.

Yeah surprised me too, never seen anything like that before.

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Yeah I thought it was the main loom that melted at first so I was pleased to see the damage was limited to the coil lead. Mine is used little but often, 7k miles in 18months, looking forward to more trips in it this summer, sounds so much better with the windows down.

Cheers Peter! Hope all is well with you? You going to Supercharged Saturday next month?

Thanks, if the car wasn't parked out in public I would be able to film a lot more of the fixes....I'll get a garage one day.

@@leeevernden Picking up my Slakker/Hartech USA 3.7 996 in a few days, and a huge thank you for your posts!

@@rstephens3683 I'm excited for you! Hope you enjoy it!

Yeah I’ve seen these swapped into old American 50s pickups, and I’ve seen one in an Aston Martin DBS, and they also show up in a lot of Jags - XJC, XJS and E-types.

I never notice it, I'm sure there is still a bit there but it's no where near what the Pirellis are like so they must be doing a good job.