I got them through busdepot.com :)

Awesome work!!!

Thank you! Its been a struggle to have enough off time and good weather to dedicate time to this project. Its about the milestones!

Awesome! Great feedback, really makes a big diff on handling :)

Thanks! Yes little steps forward are still forward!

I can't express the change in handling, it was an amazing change, I could dive in and get one...changes the whole riding experience, feels a LOT safer.

Used a bottle with 2 pints water, 1 TBS of dish soap shaken....to spray down the seal...and I did this on a hot day, that helps keep the chance of shattering the glass down. Yes not much pressure at all, and always spreading out the pressure as wide as you can with your hand.

Ah cool, good to know, thanks for dropping by!

Yay! Ya hope to have more on the TBird this summer. You have good care taste!

I just kept pressing the "eject all" and all over the screen till it eventually popped open. If yours is not lighting, you might want to try to follow along on the sounds and my finger positions as i go through the menu...it might register your pressing even if the lights off. Good luck hope that works!

Figured it out. Press and hold the eject/ close button to the left of the screen.

@@roscoesrepairs nicely done man!!

Awesome! Good luck on your project!

Episode 28: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYTWiKp3bM-spJo

I do prefer an oil shock since its pretty apparent when they fail...hmm, maybe a parts cross reference?

Nice note!! Well done!

Well, first press the close button once, then you may need to press all over the screen ... if the touch mechanism is all dead on the screen, there is a way to force the screen/radio to open with a screw driver. I'll see if I can find that.

Thank you!!! Going to be a fun summer!

www.ebay.com/itm/263584464459 55$ and so worth it!

hehe, ya its face is totally off now, will pull then engine this weekend and dismantle it...see where it died. It did run before i did this, but poorly, it was hurt, but it did not grenade, it did not sounds like a bunch of noise in a box....i suspect the turbo failed completely, thats what i see from the OBD.

@@bishopofrustyiron3101 Cool!

Yup a total pain in the butt to go through taking it all apart again...ugg, but its worked great now for a couple years!

I went to Les Schwab for the alignment, they were familiar with the odd setup of the bus to align the wheels...a rather senior man came out to do the work :)

Amazing how that unfolded and turned from a seal replace to disassembling the entire rear end and axles! Ugg!

My case was half the screen was not responding because the glass was broken and the 'touch' is inside that medium. Fairly cheap repair, might want to do it anyway, wont make it worse, Perhaps your setup right now has a loose ribbon cable, that would do that too.

hehe It is always something, in some ways thats okay, its good to have projects....just not the expensive ones right after another!

Hails Taylor! Ah good to know, I will see about reducing those lower going forward. Ya the cold months are brutal for doing car work! Looks like your garage is pretty warm though and setup. Someday....hehehe.

Thanks, huge step forward in welding skill? maybe rofl!

hehe I hear ya man, i've had a couple dozen offers...appreciate the thought though. I consider myself lucky to have found it for sure and look forward to sharing its journey. I suspect it may be the last full car I do as I am getting up in years and soon may not want to crawl under and over all this old iron hehe. Cheers and have a great day!

Thanks!! I picked it up at: www.busdepot.com/

Whoots!! Yay glad that helped!

Haha indeed a hammer....i am hoping today to get to some welding! We'll see, it is raining like crazy and about 35f, miserable time to play with electricity rofl. Cheers!

Haha thanks! Yup its dirty worn and well loved. Derek is a fav goto for me, lots of good car stuff out there! Appreciate the visit! More fun to come!

So my guess is that the final ribbon cable isn't actually connected all the way. He doesn't show it in the video but there's a trick to both of the final 2 ribbon connections you have to make. On the motherboard, the ribbon with the weird loop of plastic around it has to be inserted by flipping part of the connector up 90⁰, inserting the ribbon, then flipping and locking the connector closed. On the car end of the ribbon cable, the connecter has a small black plastic piece that doesn't look like it should come off, you need to hook one end of it and pull it out with tweezers or your fingernails then insert the ribbon and push the plastic bit back into place. Hope this helps :)

Well congrats! You did it! Ya I am that way on some of this too and I plow through it just to see how lost I get rofl. Well done!! I just need to get out in the rain and cold and get wrenching!

@@bishopofrustyiron3101 What state are you in?. I'm in Connecticut and although it isn't getting too cold accept during the overnights I have the Bus in the garage that I heat with one of those propane heaters when I work on the Bus. I do hate the cold. UGGG. Only 3 more months of winter.

Hehe I am about as car from Conn as one can be, I am in Washington State...nice to keep that bus inside for sure, sadly I have no room in my garage for the old VW so it sits on the tennis court outside...wishing for a heated garage. @@ggolds5

@@bishopofrustyiron3101 I'll say a prayer for you to get a heated garage. How's that. You never know. I'm going to finish the anti sway bar in about an hour. I just hope it isn't overly difficult to get the pliers to squeeze closed the rubber bushing to put back the clip. Here goes.

@@bishopofrustyiron3101 Finished install. MAN that little clip was a pain in the toosh. Can't wait to try her out tomorrow.

Thanks! It was fun fixing this rig!

I added the ball joint puller kit to the video description. As for the vice grips, i just got a set that were "C" clamp shaped. All of the vice grips shaped like that will work :) The ball joint remover kit was about 200 or so maybe 250 on amazon. I did put the link for the old one, they will give you matching alternatives. Enjoy your work!

S & J Engines in Spokane Washington. They work on engines like this from anywhere in the US: www.sandjengines.com/

It is a 1955, its been sold and onto another owner to do the interior.

Good luck! A lot of GMs used that transmission right before a torque converter....32 bolts, ya yowch! Best of luck!

Thank you so much! Getting close to welding for real! hahaha

@@bishopofrustyiron3101 YEAH!!!!!

Thank you! Winter is not the best time to work outside! hahaha