Let me know if cleaning the VANOS solenoids makes a difference, I might clean mine too if it’s a noticeable improvement. But if you’re having fuel pressure issues, it might be better to look into your LPFP and HPFP. If you have MHD or a good OBD2 scan tool, you can check the live fuel pressure and locate where the pressure drop is occurring.

@@TheAutoSurgeon thanks, I was told the same thing since I already replaced both hpfp and lpfp along with both sensors lp hp, both 02 sensors a new ekp but I haven't installed it yet new plugs and packs new battery, gas cap starter, man I'm running out of options it's been giving me fuel high pressure plausibility, cold start fault pressure is to high [ bank 1]

Did you replace them with OEM parts? I know the Chinese HPFPs and sensors can cause issues. I know the feeling of continuously throwing parts at a car to hopefully fix the issue. Sometimes when you’re really stumped, it’s better to just take it to a reputable shop to get a professional diagnosis. It’ll save you tons of money on unnecessary repairs in the long run.

@@TheAutoSurgeon yeah I think you're right, now that you mentioned it the hpfs is pierburg but made in Thailand and I'm not sure about the hpfp because I took it to a local mechanic who over charged me for the parts and labor not to mention $460 for the diagnostic when that didn't work I dumped another $1,000 for the 02 sensors with smog and labor, same results 3 days later, that's when I decided an MHD adapter and pro tool and MHD apps would help me do it myself, man I came pretty close, took it for a test drive a few weeks back and it went back into limp mode right when I hit 60mph, back to the drawing board.

With MHD, run some logs at idle and see if your HPFP stays above or around 1900 PSI. If it drops to around 1000 PSI while the LPFP is at its regular 60-70PSI (I think that’s where it sits), it most likely will be the HPFP. Try to find a local parts breaker and get a used working HPFP with warranty. You can probably get one for under $200. These cars hate non-OEM parts, they cause significant issues. If you need more help, just shoot me an email ([email protected]) and I can take a look at your logs.

I actually made it myself! Carbon fiber skinning.

Yes, but it’s infinitely better to have oil and coolant temps present at all times. Clicking through menus every time you drive the car gets annoying.

@@TheAutoSurgeon Cant argue with you on that one, when can afford it, im defo upgrading mine.

Yes, the white wire on the cigarette lighter in the video. That is on my car though, it might be different for yours. You just need to find a power source that’s on when the headlights are on. For example, if you have some factory ambient lighting, you can tap into that since it’s only on at night.

I installed the 18 in 1 kit which comes with everything shown in the video (dash, door panel, door handle, storage area, and footwell lights). The other kits just have less parts. For example, the 2 in 1 only includes 2 light strips for the dash, the 10 in 1 kit includes everything except for the door handle and storage area lights.

Which door light do you mean? The door handle or the storage area one? It’s been working great so far, whats the difference between the first gen and 3rd gen controllers? I didn’t know there were different versions.

@@TheAutoSurgeon door lights ( puddles lights ) M logo one M is already 99% Faded . Gen One controllers are Black which you can find in now very cheap Gen 2 are transparent one and the now gen 3 Orange controllers those are expensive but really good like communication problems with your cellphone app connection time and as well as sync between all door controllers like when you change color they will change together with in mili seconds gen 1 long trem use can’t sync properly when changing color through app and as well as connection not fast as before. 60% customers complain so gen 2 came out then gen 3 came out ( at present)

The M logo puddle lights were off of Amazon, they’re not part of the kit. But that’s interesting to know. I haven’t had an issue with this ambient lighting kit yet, the app connection and synchronization is solid, from my experience.

It’s great! No issues at all.

I’ve done a ton! FBO + inlets + water/meth + custom tune. Going to be doing upgraded turbos soon.

@@TheAutoSurgeon sweet! thats the dream brother. which 5 series model?

I agree, I always solder. But some folks don’t know how to solder so I thought I’d mention them.

ID4motion has the best quality and UI, in my opinion. It’s the most refined out of the other Chinese ones on the market.

​@@TheAutoSurgeon Seems a thad bit expensive ID4: $1065 - $1922 depending on what preloaded themes you choose. Or another brand: $400 for something that is practically the same, and "open source" and not locked down to you're cars win. But You might get what you pay for in the end so, solid function and it just keeps working. Great video never the less, enjoyed it.

Link is in the video description!

I haven’t, but it should be a similar, if not easier install. Thank you for subscribing!

For your main controller, you need to tap into a power source that is only on when the car is on. Check your fuse box and test some fuses to see which one has power when the car is on. Then, use a fuse tap to wire in power for the main controller.

What do you mean by it stays on when the car is off? The screen stays on? Or you can just hear the fans running when the car is off? If it’s the latter, that’s completely normal. If the screen stays on, there is something wrong, it’ll be best to contact ID4Motion to see what they say. As for the updates, you go on the ID4Motion website and go to “firmware” and download the respective files onto a USB drive. Plug the USB into the gauge cluster and it will automatically begin the update when it senses the file.

@@TheAutoSurgeon Yea the motor or fan behind the screen stays on. I'll turn the car completely off, get in it later that day or the next and before putting the key in I can hear the fan running. I ended up putting the stock cluster back in to avoid draining my battery and end up stuck at work in the morning. I also noticed when I started the car the screen will display the digital gauge then go to black

Yeah, same with mine, the fan continues to run sometimes. It hasn’t drained my battery, so I think it’s normal. For the second issue, I’m not sure. It’ll be best to email ID4Motion and see if they have a solution for that. Could just be that it needs a software update.

@@TheAutoSurgeon Alright thanks I'll she if that helps. Appreciate your help!!

It’s in the description!

Nope, the sub controllers connect wirelessly to the main controller.

@@TheAutoSurgeon thanks

When testing the injectors like in the video, there should be zero drips, the tip should be completely dry. If you see even a small drop of fuel come out, it means the injector is leaking since the injectors should be closed when disconnected from the wiring harness.

@@TheAutoSurgeon Ahhh okay, thank you again!

Check my other video!

It could be a faulty strip, contact the company and I’m sure they’ll be happy to send you a replacement!

😂😂

I’m not sure what you mean, can you please elaborate?

Same lights you installed in car, but it fit for korean small cars

This kit can be installed in any car. You can cut the LED strip to size, it’s universal!

Yes, there is an option in the app to turn off the startup sequence.

@@TheAutoSurgeon la app duoco striptx no lo permite. Cual recomiendas?

You can use the “Magic Car Light” app to turn off the startup sequence. Then, use the “Magic Lantern” app to control the colors, it’s much better.

@@TheAutoSurgeon ninguna app cambió el inicio

In the “Magic Car Light” app, press the gear in the top right corner and there’s an option that says “start effect” which is selected. Deselect it and it will turn off the start effect.

About $1200 CAD.

It’s on my 535i.

Yes, of course! The wiring will be a little different, of course.

Try using the “Magic Lantern” app. It’s much better than the one on the QR code in the box. If you’re already using that app, I think they just put an update out for it!

@@TheAutoSurgeon is the one Im using. Magic Lantern for interior SymponyLed. For exterior (LowGlow is MagicLed)... might there be a way to work all lights in one App?

I have a full video on my channel regarding the steering wheel!

@TheAutoSurgeon thank you. I just saw it nice

Depends on what you’re looking for. If you want what I installed in the video, it’s the 18 in 1 kit. If you don’t want the footwell lights or the door handle lights, then you can get the 10 in 1 kit.

It unfortunately looks like they’ve changed the ad. I’m sure you can find another one through a quick search on Ali Express! Most of them are probably made in the same factory.

@@TheAutoSurgeon how much did you pay for yours im considering just buying the led bit from ohc motors and doing the rest of the wheel diy

It was about $1200 CAD. It’s going to be a pretty involved DIY, depending on what modifications you’re planning to make. If you’re going to be changing the shape of the steering wheel (flat bottom with cutouts) you’re going to need to make a mold and remold the shape of the steering wheel. But if you plan to keep the original shape and just re wrap it in new leather with the LED display, it should be a relatively simple process.

I couldn’t tell a difference before you mentioned it. But looking back at the side by side comparison in the video, it looks like maybe a quarter inch smaller. Nothing you’re really going to notice, especially since you probably won’t be using the analog theme.

Really not sure, it could be the way the sub is wired up. Did you use a LOC connected to the factory subwoofer wires? Maybe your mic doesn’t pickup the low frequency?

I didn’t use a LOC and I don’t think it’s a matter with the mic not being able to pick up low frequency. The subwoofer completely stops working when I choose the mic option on the app.

I got the 18 in one! You’ll just need the 10 in one for the doors and dash.

I had my battery connected to test for power with the door panels off. For my car, the airbag light gets reset when you disconnect the battery for ~10minutes and reconnect. I’m not 100% sure if yours will do the same as some people report they need to use a scanner to get rid of it.

No, I mean the “analog” looking theme! The one at 6:30.

@@TheAutoSurgeon ah yes i see it now

I can try to help you out, but I need some clarification on what you’re asking! What cable are you trying to put through?

I got the 18 in 1 kit! It includes the door handle and storage area lights. But if you don’t want/need those lights, just go with the 10 in 1 kit.

@@TheAutoSurgeon thanks for the quick reply I purchased the 2in one on accident I thought it was the whole set I emailed support hopefully I’ll be able to cancel my order and I’ll purchase the 18 in 1 awesome video too 🔥

Yes, of course!

Thanks

Just the door panel to run the wiring!

Yes! You can cut the strips anywhere.

I ordered the kit but haven’t received a confirmation or anything how long does it take to get?