indeed!

old fatsharks that had a power cord.

The insane thing is that I can not even feel the gap/space as seen in the x-ray. the spacer or whatever used must be sufficient. No in stability .

Short video, glad to share more with more specific info and/of challenges you're interested in or concerned about. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jKPNe6uLlNGIaKM

@@KevinHartman84 Hello again! Thank you for your quick response. It is encouraging that you are doing well and have no issues after such a severe injury. It gives me hope. It seems unbelievable how you were able to recover! Happy for you. For what I have learned is that the surgery is good, but the resected ulna part is common to be extremely unstable after the surgery. You must be operated by an excellent surgeon. How long does it take you to recover and start using your hand?

Conductor mierda es lo q es

HII

Well, unfortunately this project did not make it past a few pool test and a couple trips to the lake. The problem is my janky in-hull setup and lack of access to the area to fix it. If I had a larger opening that I could open and re-seal without fear leaking, giving me more room to work on the motor and jet drive, it may be doing more than sitting on stands in the garage ATM. I do plan to apply the motors and jetdrives to another project sometime but I have no idea when (or if I'll ever even get to it).

wont be back

@@gnemelf AWESOME! This is just a place for ME to hold vids so I can easily share them with who I want. This is not , has not, will not, ever be for YOU or any rando on the internet. Thanks for sharing your feelings Karen.

LOL Who TF are you? Why do you think your opinion matters?

I can't recall 100% but comes to my mind as the Psuedo join that was noisy and to fix it a Suavay Kapanji surgery was done.......basically take a chunk outta the end of the ulna and secure loose ends with screws.

My Kayak is mainly for floating the Salt River, so open water concerns are not on my radar. I'll be happy if this will take me UP the river so I can float back down to my truck...no more need for 2 vehicles to go for a float.

I'll be running 60Ah worth of 6s LiPo, hopefully that's enough juice for a 5mile trip up river.

@@KevinHartman84 :D I`d guess ;)

@@KevinHartman84 I`m curious, which jet drive / motor combo did you use ?

@@T____K drives are no-name 40mm units off of AliExpress. Motors are Turigy AquaStar 4084 620kv units, ESCs are HobbyKing 120A marine/boat grade.

There was a ban on target shooting and campfires in the Tonto National Forest until 9-30-19 due to fire danger.

Legally....yes.

You stand plenty high. I'm 5'9" and see over it without issue, though I suppose a 5'0" individual may have some trouble.

yup

While we were there last weekend I only took some shots of the canyon we were in (Boulder Canyon). I did fly high enough to see the road, I was fairly breezy and I'm always afraid of lettin' several hundred dollar 'float' away......haha.

Kevin Hartman That’s true! I wouldn’t even have thought about it being carried away by the wind 😆

Yessir, that's the one!

The quality of image and the stability just blows me away. Pretty amazing for sure!

First day was failed ejection after fail ejection.......basically had to cock EVERY shot......so frustrating. Added some oil and did some polishing of the rails with a sharpening stone......then the second day was WORLDS better. Now it's like 1 in 200 that fail to eject/re-cock/or lock open on last shot.

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I do not understand the question.

lol, it's not a "how to build" but it is indeed my DIY rosin press. I still use it daily.

uh, the dj will only be hidden if he's 4ft tall...........the table raises and the dj stands on a platform..

Kevin Hartman thanks for explaining that. Left everyone hanging lol

Yes, it's quite awesome! I'm still impressed by it. I'm still slightly larger a fan of the back-to-back TV's we'd put on the deck/roof. It's a toss-up (for me). kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHWVq6GIepKtmaM

Thank you! This is actually made of aluminium (4" channel IIRC) since I was still in a wheelchair and trying to keep the weight down. It weighs in at 35lbs which is sweet, but steel would be a better idea since under full load the aluminum does flex/bend a bit. Still works well for me though, over 2 years later. If it were steel, I probably wouldn't have needed to double up my pieces on the top and bottom.

Kevin Hartman Thats good to know that aluminum is strong enough for that amount of pressure. I simply modded my existing 100$ press and made it smaller, as well as sitting the plates horizontal with the U-channel beam. That way you get full, even pressure along all of the plates. That was my problem before with the original design, the ram was too small and the plates would sit uneven with the material, no matter how nice the pre press was. Your design is a lot nicer than mine, but i still have to make improvements. Mine only flexes a little bit, but i had to double up on the top and bottom, surprisingly my threaded rod are holding up by themselves. I might weld some more to make it super sturdy. Who knows. Keep up the good work!

Great to hear you're improving what you have! Always nice to improve something rather than starting from scratch, if you can. I firstly started out by transforming my friend shitty Dnail 5x5 manual press into plates that we could use under a shop press....worked for a while, then one of the plates broke (pot-metal) . I never had a machine sold as a rosin press, but my friend did and that's how I quickly learned of the short comings (much like yourself) and decided I'd just build my own. Some time on a FB group "Advanced Rosin Tech" got me thinking a bit and then voila, what you see is what I thought up and build from my head (no drawn plans).

Do you have any sort of engineering background? or mechanic/construction experience? because one does not simply create something this pretty right off the bat. Mine looks medieval compared to yours.

I do construction and have training in electrical. I've always been pretty good and putting mechanical things together.

You have the model with built in relay and it's not working? Or did you get the one meant for an external solid state relay? TA4-RNR is what I have , TA4-SNR can't be wired the same way, it requires a SSR between PID and cartridges. If you have the same one I do, perhaps you need to verify you've set the thermocouple to the correct setting (I use K type IIRC).

Kevin Hartman I have the TA4-RNR with the built in relay. I can hear it switch, but does not activate my elements. What's the input voltage for your heaters? I have a feeling youre using the 12/24v ones, while I was dumb and bought the 110v 300watters, thinking I could use my Ssr40da. I have even tried the SSR with an external Ac adapter as well, lights up my SSR when plugged in, but as soon as the output lights up, the SSR goes dark. Are you running a jumper from the positive to one of the outputs for the relay? I have tried everything and just can't get my damn plates to warm up

I've gotten as far as removing the relay from the TA4 board, and wiring it the way the SSR version is with a little solder, and light on the SSR40 now turns on as expected, but the load still reads 0 when checking with a multimeter. This has truly stumped me. The TA4 is sending 12v to the SSR input, so I do not understand why the load is not getting any juice.

I too am using 120v heater cartridges. Have you tried direct wiring your cartridges to AC power and see if it heats up as it should? If the relay kicks on, and the cartridge works when directly given A/C, I'd suspect there is a wiring issue between the cartridge and the PID.

I managed to get 1 out of two PID's to turn on the SSR thanks to my solder job, might be shorting things out on the second unit because the relay wont turn on and the contacts to try to solder to are very small. Heating elements work as expected with the one though! I think where I went wrong with these is not supplying power from the wall at first, I didn't realize you need to supply the 110v and the relay just closes the circuit. I ordered 2 TA8's with SSR output just in case I can't get the second TA4 to work. Thanks for your help

The TA4-RNR has a built in relay instead of using a solid state relay.

indeed! only problem is you're on the WAY west side and my bikes only got around 30mi of range on conservative throttle...... : ) More realistic range is 15mi at whatever throttle I want.

Haha yeah we would have to pick a place and ride once we get there by conventional transportation. I'm mostly north from south mountain. by the north part of 101 and 17. my bike can go 50-70 miles but that still a long ways to go.

I was able to smooth it out with a piece of foam/padding between the camera mount and the frame. It's a long time ago though, so I don't remember 100%. I never ended up using that setup long.

Kevin Hartman well good to know any how thanks bro,

not at all. this was a piece put together for my friend who'd been one of the first to be dooped into one of the crap Dnal presses. His press was junk so we bolted the hot plates to this press and used it til we snapped those with too much force.

Oh, haha. Ok. Thanks. I'm still not sure which route to go. Premade plates are damn expensive. I can get aluminum plates from metal supply for a "reasonable" price (about $65 CAD) just not sure how much it'd cost me to get holes drilled if I can't do it myself that is - I have no drill press. Think I could put'em in a vise and use a hand drill and my metal (cobalt) drill bits?

joe joe you could use a drill and vice I'm sure. I used a cheap ($65 ) drill press from Harbor Freight.

Ok cool. Thanks.

joe joe here's avid with a little more info kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmTMqX6uarxnqdU.

Thanks a lot man. I like the aluminum (light weight) idea but as you say, can't really take full pressure, it seems to do the job. I guess you could do the same build with steel. Did you drill all the holes yourself with a hand drill or a press?