Hi Dylan, The Polar 44 is an absolute beauty:) I fund my whole project from my 9-5 job. That is the reason the project goes a bit slower, i buy material on a monthly basis as and when I get paid. The CNC files comes with the plans when you order (or at least was an option for the Kiribati 36). I have a laser cutting company 1.5 hours away from me and do regular trips there to pick up material. Would have loved to go for a 40'+ Boat but read somewhere that as soon as you go above the 40 line the cost for material and parts the cost almost increase by 40%. Had to stay realistic and went for the 36'. If you have any questions feel free to reach out. Thanks Dylan👍🏻

Hey Patric!! Thanks for the comment and taking the time to provide feedback. Very much a novice on 3d printing and used PLA for initial prototyping. Saying that, without your feedback I would very much happily have left part as PLA not knowing anything different (so thank you):) I have done some parts (white fuse holder for example) in ABS, what is your experience on that one? Also, if you could only print parts in one material them which one would you choose? Interesting topic so thanks again👍🏻

@@modularhippo ABS is fine too but you would need a enclosed printer, and even then it may warp fairly easily.. ASA can be a bit easier to print compared with ABS, and ASA do produce parts that can handle the elements much better (UV etc). ABS with glass-fiber does do wonders in reducing warping. If you use filament with carbon-fiber or glass-fibers you do need a hardened nozzle as plain brass wears out quite quickly. Both ASA and ABS do release toxic fumes so do print in a well ventilated area, and don't stay in the same room while printing. Both of these require a enclosure, but that can be as easy as putting a cardboard box over the printer and let the air inside heat up before the print starts. So my own order of preference would be PA12-CF > ASA-GF > ABS-GF > PETG-CF > ASA > ABS > PETG. (GF = glassfiber, CF = carbonfiber) But price do jump up quite a bit on that list. As you are dealing with high-current connections that may get warm i would prefer using filaments that are self-extinguishing / fire-resistant. For these parts i would prefer using something with high glass-transition temperature, and remember that filaments with CF/GF raise that a bit. It all depends on what print-quality you and your printer can produce with the different materials. PA12 is not a beginner-friendly material, so you better only print with that if nobody is around 😀 Can't post links here, but there are some really good cheat-sheets out there that break down the filament properties / printability. Search for "3d printer filament comparison cheat-sheet" and you will find some. You might also want have a look at the video Zack Freedman made called "The 3d filament tier list" if you want a brief overview of basically all types of filaments, and have a few laughs on the way. 😂 And as a general comment, as i could not see everything in the video. You don't want to rely on the plastic in compression for the connection-bolts as plastic under constant load, if exceeding the deformation load, will deform over time and may make connections loosen. Using a nut as a back-stop, as you did in the video, is a really good thing. TLDR; If the parts are never exposed to UV light and the only real exposure is to humidity and/or some chemicals i would say self-extinguishing / fire-resistant PETG / PETG-CF should be good enough, but maybe go with the CF variant to bump up it's temperature-resistance a bit. But now the comment is starting to get too long.. Feel free to hit me up if you have any specific questions.

@@patric001eede4 - Hi Patric, big thank you for expending on the subject, looks like I have some bedtime reading/KZbin'ing to do to get my head around it all, ha ha:) I currently run a Bambu PS1 (enclosed) in a workshop so guess I should be good from that point of view. Ventilation is questionable but can leave the print and return to workshop when completed:) I would probably aim to find something that works without me having to upgrade nozzle etc. only due to time constraints. Good point around putting nut/bolt pressure on some parts and how they act over time (lose electrical connection points is a big no-no so will keep my eyes on that one). I have kept the infill density fairly high to ensure stability but time will tell:) How amaizing is 3D printing though, what a game changer, just wish I took the leap earlier. My brother bought his first one 15 years ago and back then they were allot of tweaking, config and endless re-prints so thing it scared me of a bit. Touch wood, my experience from printing today is plug-and-play!! Thank you for offering future advise, I am sure we will speak again on the subject:) Thanks Patric!

Thanks john!! Really appreciate your kind feedback. When you are working on a project solo it is sometimes hard to gauge how you are doing in all of it:) - Big thank you for taking the time to send some encouragement and happy that you enjoy the build series:) Thanks!

Hey Albert, hope all good your side! That is a really good point. As far as thin cables go I have the cables from the throttle to the motor controller, I also have the red AWG 16 cables running from the DC Contactor to the 48v->12v buck converter, as well as AWG 16 cables running to and from the buck converter to the 12v Fuse boxes (and one negative to the negative circuit). Would you say all are at risk or only the ones connected to the DC contactor? Need to dig deeper on that one as was to focused on the 48v 200a cables and the havoc they can create if not fused properly. Thanks again!!

Hi Electron Tinker - Big thank you for comment and valuable feedback. Was not aware about the isolation switch issues so will definitely keep an extra eye on those during trials. I am thinking of getting one of those heat sensor cameras that you can add to your mobile phone to allow me to find any heat-creeps. Adding a switch to the silver cable is a good idea, I will get that sorted as makes good sense (thank you):)

Is the contacter not just a fancy relay? There shouldn't be any connection to the high current side no?

@@dylangallant5459It's basically a switch that can be switched by a secondary, low power circuit. Yes, that's like a relay. My thought was that instead of having basically two switches in series in the high power line, just use the low power circuit to disable the motor by deactivating the contactor.

​@dylangallant5459 - Hi Dylan, Thank you for your comment. You are right, it is a relay and when used for higher amperage they call them contactors. These are both connected to higher current (battery positive to right side, and left side positive goes to the motor controller) The controller's themselves connect directly to battery negative. The ignition cable sends a small current to the contactor to open high current flow. Or at least that is my hope in theory:) I will in next episode share a final connection flow diagram as a sanity check before connecting to battery. Saw your channel, using Davinci myself so will follow you in case youstart uploading:) Thanks Dylan!

Hey HarjoK - Thank you for comment and happy to hear that you like the project. Just need to await final confirmation on some of the cable connections and after that I should be able to connect to a battery and hopefully give it a spin:) To be continued:)

Hey Tuxedot, thanks for the comment. I would say it should be a very close design (most of these vans are). Let me know how you get on and if that was the issue. Good Luck👍🏻

Hi Matthew - Thank you for comment. As start to weld the hull I might have to change tactics and get a MIG. TIG can be painfully slow, but has it's advantages in some areas:)

Hey Emre!! Happy 2025!! - The more I am looking into using Petrobond Oil Bonded Metal Casting Sand the more it make sense. I am not sure why I though making plaster moulds would be easier. I should have used sand from day one. As the ingots have two flat surfaces it is even simpler as I do not need 2 halves, one mould is enough and I just fill it to the top. Any additional lead I can easily remove after cast. Will start prepping this week. Also found a good Neoprene sheet to act as fire retardant membrane for when I close the keel so happy with that as well. Need to cast all lead, then paint in epoxy (2 layers), then wrap in the neoprene. With that the lead and AL wont interact even if I in the future get a pinhole leak. Should give peace of mind:)

@@modularhippo happy 2025 to you too. I m sure you have thought of millions o thing or the solution it iyour decision. when you put the lead into the keel I would also consider using epoxi. to avoid contacts for future for pin holes or your idea is also sounds ok. or you may apply coating the lead with epoxi is also another salution

@@emreesen1468 Actually, I will only coat the lead (and not the inside of the keel aluminium). Reason being the intense heat produced by the welding when closing the keel. with the 'low smoke' fire retardant neoprene acting as a layer between the epoxy coated lead and the aluminium shell the hope is to minimise smoke/impurities to air around weld as with to much smoke this will have a bad effect on quality of weld. I think 2 layers on lead (good primer first) and the neoprene should be sufficient:) Fingers crossed:)

@ That sounds great I have no better idea good luck and fingers crossed

Hi Les, thank you for comment! The more I think of it the way forward is simply using casting sand as you say. It will be quicker (no wait for curing/drying), the sand can be re-used, and as I do not need a 'perfect finish the sand make sense. I can also simplify it all as the ingots have two flat sides and only create a one sides mould (any overfill of the opposite side can easily be removed in post production). Onwards and Upwards:) Time to start reading up on Sand Casting:) Thanks!

Привет Михаил, спасибо за комментарий. В настоящее время я работаю над переборками и другими внешними деталями, поэтому, если я реалист, мы, вероятно, заглянем в будущее как минимум на 12 месяцев, прежде чем я приступлю к созданию реального корпуса. Медленная скорость также связана с финансами, поскольку я финансирую проект из ежемесячного дохода и у меня нет специального бюджета для этой сборки. Мне также нужно найти место для постройки достаточно большого корпуса. У вас отличные видео, вы упомянули Пальму-де-Майорку? Выглядит великолепно!!!:) Privet Mikhail, spasibo za kommentariy. V nastoyashcheye vremya ya rabotayu nad pereborkami i drugimi vneshnimi detalyami, poetomu, yesli ya realist, my, veroyatno, zaglyanem v budushcheye kak minimum na 12 mesyatsev, prezhde chem ya pristuplyu k sozdaniyu real'nogo korpusa. Medlennaya skorost' takzhe svyazana s finansami, poskol'ku ya finansiruyu proyekt iz yezhemesyachnogo dokhoda i u menya net spetsial'nogo byudzheta dlya etoy sborki. Mne takzhe nuzhno nayti mesto dlya postroyki dostatochno bol'shogo korpusa. U vas otlichnyye video, vy upomyanuli Pal'mu-de-Mayorku? Vyglyadit velikolepno!!!:)

Спасибо! И удачи в постройке. Будем следить. И желаю удачи еще раз в этом тяжелом но очень интересном деле!!!!!

Спасибо!Каждое путешествие начинается с шага, шаг за шагом, и, надеюсь, скоро я буду плавать по морям!!:) Еще раз спасибо за интерес, поддержка сообщества дает энергию двигаться вперед. Spasibo!Kazhdoye puteshestviye nachinayetsya s shaga, shag za shagom, i, nadeyus', skoro ya budu plavat' po moryam!!:) Yeshche raz spasibo za interes, podderzhka soobshchestva dayet energiyu dvigat'sya vpered.

Hi Henk - In hindsight I should have mounted anything with water and potential to leak below the electrical components. I will keep it like this for bench testing and will be extra cautious (probably cover the electrical components properly as and when I start topping water up). In the final configuration for the actual install on boat I will keep this in mind and arrange them in the right order. Big thank you for taking time to comment as a valid point. Appreciated!!

Hey Albert - Happy 2025, and thank you for the feedback. 8 of the bars are single cast moulds as the shape is unique to the mould. After that it is 4 moulds where I will cast 3 bars each. I have an idea that I will try. Similar to what I tried but more basic as it will only require one single mould instead of 2 halves (each bar has a flat top and bottom so I have over complicated things). Hard to describe in words but should hopefully make better sense when in an episode:)

@@modularhippo A successful new year to you too. Yes, the casting will then be much easier, protruding lead can then be easily removed with a rasp. You will need a leather apron and upper part for the aluminium welds anyway, this would provide additional protection when casting lead. The parts for the rudder control are high quality, and I can see that you still have enough room to attach an autopilot to the centre arm (if this is not combined with hydraulic steering).

@@albertfunk1176 Thank You! I have created an auto-pilot shelf (Stage 27 : modularhippo.com/kiribati-36-build/), saying that I am also playing with the idea of using hydraulic steering. I am aware that a steering pulpit/wheel takes up allot of space compared to tiller only on a small boat, but still like them. Leather apron is a good idea as I had a bit of spitting when I poured the lead, thanks:)

Hi Gafaff - Thank you for comment and fair point!:) I am Scandinavian and from an engineering background so working in those units defaults in my head. Point taken, going forward I will use litres/kilos as makes more sense. Thank you for feedback as appreciated:) Happy Sunday!

@lesiobialy - Thank You:)

Hey - Not familiar with that technique. Will research that one. Thank you for pointing me in that direcrion:)

@@modularhippo Robinson Foundry on KZbin has some good videos on the process.

@@usernamegoeshere527 Big Thank You, took a quick look and seems to be the right place to go for sand casting. I have one last thing I want to try as if it works it should be less work then sand-casting (but if that fails then sand-casting it is):) Big Thank you again for taking the time to point me in the right direction:)

Hey Harjo, thank you for reaching out:) I was looking at the 20kw but if I remember it correctly it pushed me towards 96v instead of 48v hence deciding to run 2 x 10Kw. Looking forward to actually start to run them and my first task will be to see if I can run the motors against the same RPM controlled by one throttle. You are way ahead of me so I have a feeling that you will be a valuable contact down the line:) I have a good contact at Golden Motors. Although not technical he tends to find answers needed so far but let's see what happens when my questions get a little bit more bespoke to my need:) Thanks again for reaching out and let's stay in contact!!

@@modularhippono problem, let stay in contact! 😊 for me it’s also a big hobby and learning project. What I have for motor is not on there list or website. It’s a new version based on the 20kw motor but than for 48v and differently build for a lower rpm (max 2800 I believe) but higher torque. It will end up have power for 10-15kw They use this motor now for the IB15 (the inboard all in one)

@@HarjoK - Sounds exactly what I was after and would have needed. 4000 RPM (my motors) just lead to allot of gearing to get the torque up. Although 2 motors give some degree of redundancy, 1 motor is less moving parts and less things that can go wrong:) There will always be development in this area so I will just work with and be happy with the motors I got:) - Will be interesting though to follow your project.

Hi StingrayBay - Thank you for comment and feedback. I guess you can use both methods. The reason for me deciding to run a closed (none seawater cooled) system for these water-cooled electric motors is that I want to avoid pumping seawater around (to avoid issues sometimes related to this, leakage, corrosion, blockage ). Being an aluminium boat I am trying to avoid potentials of seawater inside the boat in any form. I am used to fan cooling on my old motorcycles so picked the method I felt comfortable with. If not optimal then a possibility that I will look into heat exchanger. Who knows, I might be missing a trick here. Super grateful for you taking the time to give feedback, appreciated. Thanks StingrayBay!

It wouldn't be necessary to use seawater for cooling directly. A skin tank welded within the hull will transfer the heat out. This is very common on steel hulled, diesel powered boats which have significantly more heat to disperse. I'm using the exact same motors on my 15m x 4m steel widebeam, though my configuration of the motors is very different, with one mounted directly in front of the other with the belts driving the shaft about 250mm apart. I have a small skin tank (600×600×50mm) which I'm advised will be more than sufficient.

@@stegra5960 I was thinking the same thing as aluminium is a great conductor it wouldn't have to be welded though as thermal grease would transfer the heat really well

@@stegra5960 Thank you for feedback and thoughts. Very interesting indeed. I am building my 'forever boat' so if there are better ways then I am all up for that. At the moment I have all the components for this design so will take it to the end but as the model you mention has so many fewer parts I would love to put the skin tank in place as redundancy just in case I ever come to try it out. By the nature this one is hard to bench test unless boat is in water and as mine is being built it is hard to compare both setups running. - Just so that I get this right, a closed system where the cooling hoses are connected to both motors, and both motor controllers, a circulation pump moving the water around and through the skin tank and besides the expansion tank/reservoir that is it. Being an aluminium boat I would most likely have an aluminium skin tank. if understanding it correctly it is more or less just a long tank with a divide in the middle to force the hot water to take a long path through it. Skin tank is either mounted to the hull under water level, or even outside (keel tanks). I like your motor setup, I had to build against a particular space on sailboat so motors in a line was not an option (can see the benefits though):) - You don't happen to be in the UK by any chance, would be nice to see the setup if you ever drive past North West area. Thanks again for feedback as interesting stuff:)

Thanks again StingrayBay for pointing me in this direction. I will most likely make provisions for both (as a skin tank has so few components).

Hey Lagittaja, hope you had a great New Years!! Big thank you for your feedback on the fans. I think I will leave them of and completely and just clean them regularly. Need all the cooling I can get so guess the best way forward:) Thanks again Lagittaja!!

Hey Brett, Happy 2025!! Thank you for the comment and happy to hear that you enjoy the topic. You are correct, this is the mock-up and during assembly of final model I will all electrical components above the water releated ones. Appreciate the feedback as makes perfect sense:) Thanks Brett!

@@modularhippoI was 99% sure you would but I always say it’s better to talk about it now than wish someone would say something later. Just getting ready to watch your new video.

​@brettgerber795- Thanks Brett. All feedback and ideas are greatly appreciated so keep em coming:)👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Thanks Marjan, hope you and family had a great time👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Hey Bruseidon! Happy 2025! Thank you for taking an interest and comment. When you say 'planning the setup' do you then refer to the motor build or building the Kiribati 36?:) Either way, great to hear and let's stay in contact as two brains are better than one:)

Thank you Antony!! Bring on 2025!!:)

@@modularhippo Happy great 2025 to you too Henrik :) Rock0n :) !

Happy that you like content:)

Ha Ha, would not say genius, maybe stuborn:) Happy 2025👍🏻

Hey Aadamskii - Thank you for taking time to comment and happy to hear that you enjoy the content:) Happy ending to 2024 and hope we all will get a great 2025!!:)

If I remember correctly, then the o my electrical connection to pump motor was simply just pushed on (no lock). Do you struggle to remove it?

Hey, thank you for your kind words and you are right, it is pronounced the way you say:) Just need to get my head around it as said it the wrong way for ao long now😅

Thank you, getting there slowly:)

Hey Artval!! Thank you, I may need it as still far to go:) Keep up the good work with your Cheese cakes as looking good!!

Hi Sami, Thank you for the kind words. Still a way to go but getting there slowly:)

Ha Ha - Very true!! It is crazy how many hands-on people you find on you-tube channels that has a cat side-kick!!! Must be a connection there somewhere:)

Hi Santos, happy to hear that you like the content and find it useful. Big thank you for taking time to leave a comment and letting me know.

Hi JM - Thank you for taking time to comment and for the great advise. Point taken as makes perfect sense, will leave the weld 'as is' and modify ingot instead. Big Thank You:)

Hi Albert, thank you for your kid words:) - The goal is to have the mechanical parts sorted by then and after that it is eyes on the hull:) I have manage to find 650 Kg of lead so around 300 Kg short so need to find someone selling some BEFORE the lead hits the scrap yard and double in price:)

@@modularhippo A large part of our 5.4 tons of lead came from waste balancing lead from tire dealers. No idea if this source still exists.

@@albertfunk1176 I started of with checking garages for that very reason but it seems most of them are Zink these days. I might check again as Google says that lead is still used. Thanks:)

Hi CptBond - It is a bit more labour/effort intensive but as you say enables the backyard builder to handle the process yourself. It is the brain-child of the designer Luis and still in it's experimental stage. I was playing with the idea of doing a full cast but what made me settle on this method was that the ingots will be resin coated, as well as insulated by a neoprene matt (fire retardant) so in case of a pinhole water entry point you should still be able to avoid electrolysis.

Hi David - Thank you for taking time to comment and happy that you enjoy the content:) I struggled myself to get any figures in the beginning hence thinking it might be useful for others. I have gotten painfully aware that getting tools and skills before starting is financially beneficial. At the same time you are eager to move project forward so ran getting tools and skills along with external help. Still a long way to go:) Will be interesting to see the number (and hypothetical number) at the end of project:)

Hi Antonis - I believe this happens automatically but can take some time for KZbin to generate. I will see if I can figure out how long it will take before it show. Leave it with me:)

Morning Lagittaja. Thank you for expanding. Just so I get this right. I turn the on/off switch for the motor controller and this will open the circuit to provide the 18w to the DC contactor to kick into action and open current. If something goes wrong with controller then contactor lose the 18w and acts like a kill switch (no power to controller and therefor no power to motor) adding extra layer of security (with trade of using an extra 18w). Getting there slowly😅

@@modularhippoI will type relay instead of contactor as relay is easier to type. You turn a key switch or you flip a switch, that provides power to relay coil only. Battery positive goes through relay contact and then to motor controller input. When relay coil is energized, the relay changes state, for example closing the contacts (normally open).

Relays typically have the following labeling on the various terminals. A1 and A2 is basically the coil of the relay. A2 is negative or neutral. A1 you provide voltage which energizes the coil, making the relay contact change state (for example off to on) Typically relays have multiple contact pairs and as such are labeled xy where x tells you which relay contact it is and y tells what type it is. The most common types are normally open (3 and 4) or normally closed (1 and 2) Therefore a relay might have contact pairs labeled 13/14 and 21/22. Contactor contact pairs are typically labeled just 1/2 3/4 5/6 and they will separately say next to the numbers is the type NC or NO. In your case, I assume the wiring would be Battery positive to switch > switch to contactor A1 terminal. Battery negative to contactor A2 terminal. Battery positive to contactor 1 terminal Contactor 2 terminal to motor controller input.

@@Lagittaja Thanks Lagittaja!!:) Starting to get a better idea now:) Legend!

@@modularhippo I forgot to add that the labeling I described is for the electrical industry. Automotive stuff has their own thing, for example 85/86 is the relay coil. Check DIN 72552. What the marine stuff uses for labels, I have no clue. But the basic principle of operation is the same.

Thanks Keyem, makes sense. Seen allot of setups where this is not used so a bit confused as to why this has not become standard. Sound like an obvious safety feature that should be a given for a setup like this. Thanks for taking time to elaborate.

Hi Petch - Thank you for comment. Please expand, are you saying that I should not mount the motor controllers below the pumps and reservoirs in case of a leak?

@@modularhippo Just a general observation :) The most lightly place for a leak is the unions at the end of pipes. If your reservoir and pumps are above your electronics any leaks will flow down. If your pumps and reservoir are at the bottom then the only place they can drip is to the floor.

@@petch41 Makes perfect sense, big thanks:) For this setup I will keep the controllers where they are mounted based on length of cables I use but with your advise I will definitely have them covered with something as and when I start topping system up with water:) - It is great advise as I did not think that far!:) Thank you for taking time to flag it:)

I totally agree. water systems down electrical is higher than water systems just to be sure when you are installing to the boat

It also helps in keeping things working if water gets into your hull bilges elsewhere ... Keep battery's and controllers higher up unless they are water tight. It can save you money as well .. See how Windelo's organise their electric motor bays ..