Subscribed😊👍it's interesting to see how you are customising everything I've got one question, why are you building your switchboard out of conductive metal and then isolating everything. Surely in a Saltwater environment a non conductive, non corrosive, composite switchboard would be better? Less chance of shorts and alot easier to build. Keep up the good work I can't wait to see the test data

Looks like a fun build. Tip in case you didnt know, just print your CAD file. You can verify sizing and placement without cutting anything but paper.

You might want to relocate or cover the batteries for safety.

Love the shirt. 😅

Are you using pure lithium 18650s instead of LifePO4 in a wet environment?

Nice dual motor design! much needed for the diy teams! Question; what keeps the main shaft, that is coupled directly to the propeller shaft, from shifting fore and aft? You didn't use a thrust bearing, are you relying on the locking collars on the flange pillow-block bearings? Also wondering if propeller shaft itself needs something to keep it from sliding out... so some type of thrust bearing if your main drive shaft is direct coupled to propeller shaft could provide both functions... as cutlass bearing doesn't provide any thrust resistance, it was previously provided by the diesel motor's transmission, which has been removed so will need to be replaced... as prop is converter torque to thrust; gtiven equal and opposite reactions suggest a sizable thrust force is going to be applied to the shaft...

Good stuff thanks for the brain food.

Google translate can help you with names

Without spacers and thread locktite

Just wondering why coupling 2 motors? Also these motors will not freewheel ( definitely a drag on performance) so it would be nice to see a shaft disconnect of some sorts maybe for each motor so you could work or replace on the way. And another thought, most of these motors have peak efficiency at higher speeds so running them slow may get you in very inefficient territory. Better run a lesser power one at optimal speed with the ratios worked out and decoupled from the bigger one and use the later when you need it (kind of like what Tesla does). This could also improve your regen ability which really sucks at low speed.

It does look amazing and I am happy to see your progress. Have you given any thought to a thrust bearing plate on the drive shaft? Also I believe the antivibration mounts will be ok for a time. However the torque from them will eventually tear them up.

The reason internal combustion engines for example in cars are mounted with compliant mounts is due to relatively large masses moving in a reciprocating motion or rotational motion. The biggest contribution are the pistons going up and down. But there's many things moving inside an internal combustion engine so if you want to learn more about it, look up the Wikipedia article titled "Engine balance". So if you hard mount an internal combustion engine, all those vibrations get transmitted through the thing it's mounted to. Things are going to break. Does the engine mind? I don't know, probably not good for it but it's probably not going to break anytime soon. Where as an electric engine just rotates. Though that doesn't mean it won't have any vibrations. Grab an electric drill and turn it on. You'll feel it has some vibrations. Sure the rotor is balanced (hopefully) but it's not a gyroscope going to space so it isn't perfect. The bearings aren't perfect either. But the vibrations will be higher frequency. But will the mounts be effective in reducing that higher frequency vibration? I don't know. Usually boat engine mounts assume you're slapping something more akin to a 500 kilo anchor on them that has secondary imbalances which the mounts need to resist. If the mounts were too soft, the engine would bang against the hard stops of the mount so they're made stiffer to ensure that doesn't happen. So perhaps it is overkill to have vibration dampeners with an electric motor. But then again, there's a shock load that happens when you put the transmission in to gear. With cars you have a clutch which you can feather to reduce the shock and you also have rubber tires that eat some of that shock. With a boat you just slam it into gear and the propeller bites into the water. Do you need vibration damping mounts for that? I don't know. Probably not.

Looks Amazing👍😉

Instead of the washers you could use some Loctite Threadlocker Red on the bolts that should be "permanent". To unfasten you will need a blowtorch and get it up to around 200-250C.

Why does it look audiophile?

Hi Jens, agree that combustion enginees rarely produce the HP they are rated to but instead far less. Tell me more about your setup as I am intrigued:) You got some interesting videos so you got yourself a new subscriber:)👍🏻

2 x 10kW, that will make you a speedboat wouldn't it?

The link for the motors doesn't work. In anyone of the videos.

Hi there from Australia, there's a guy here in West Australia that makes a 10kw marine drive, he's using 30mm wide toothed timing belts. They have less drag and are more efficient than vee belts. Here's a link to one of his videos kzbin.info/www/bejne/p2PNhKWFht2SiqMsi=4x-Oq6JRKQXBxiaQ I love your Vee configuration, I'm planning a 40kw V4 Great videos 👍👍

I have no clue but isn’t those belts way to small for the that motor torque/power?

11:35 That's not positive. That's negative that you need to connect to the controller, the other one (blue marked B-) is the one you need to connect to the main negative of the battery.

Just remove 3mm from your upper tensioner bolt brackets. That’ll get the tension bolts back in alignment. While you’re at it, add a couple of lockdown nuts to the tensioner bolts. Use thread locker to all of your mounting hardware to prevent everything from vibrating loose, and causing you more headaches.

you can do the same for cooling your batteries, they should be in a metal enclosure

Curious if you could mount a 12kw (power) and 10kw (regen) and create an all day runner with the addition of maybe 5kw of solar ?

on the housing think about safety first, getting cooling air in and hot air out of the boat and they sell fire extinguishers that will blow at a set temp

for greasing the zerks go to your hardware store and get a compression fitting that fits in the hole and get some 1/8 inch waterline from a fridge for ice maker and then a compression fitting for the zerk and mount it any where you want. The KISS system

I have failed a lot more than succeeded in the things I have designed, I use the KISS system as much as possible. If you want to bounce a idea off someone, I'll lend you a ear

Whats the price pr el engine ?? And kW?

you did a good job of that but it is way over complicated, your tension bolts are backwards. sorry that is not going to work, I would take the tensioners of and find three cogged pulleys in the size you need and look at the differant length cam belts for a car engine and have a welder weld the slots so the motors don"t move and then put a tensioner in between the motors pushing down on the belt. google 2 electric motors in a boat and you should be able to find pics of what I am talking about. good luck

ribbed belts are just a little step up from a v belt

use a cogged belt like on a super charged dragster,or the cam shaft belts on most cars. electric motors make a lot of torque like now

Max power for a standard alternator v-belt is about 1,2 kW. With your motors you will have 8x the power to transfer. For high power applications there are better suited multi groove belts, 6-10 grooves depending on the power transfer needed.

So it doesn't come out faster than that?? I thought mine was broken but I guess not.

Love that somebody beat me to my design, been trying to get my boat to this point but have had a lot of issues with other parts of my life. Any chance you could send me the files for this part of the build and specs on your boat and electric motors? Also do you have a patreon account. So happy to finally found a great motor setup for dual motors. I am going use it a bit differently, though. I will only use one at a time as I will keep the other in standby. This way I will never be without a working motor. Thank you, for the video and I look forward to seeing the build to it's completion and testing.❤

LOCK-TIGHT!

really nice build man, keep up the great work! quick google search says each motor has 13.41 hp. do they combine to make 26.82 hp or is there a variance? now that im thinking about it, youve put a lot of time and money into building a 27hp powerplant. it is awesome, and the future of propulsion...but imo at this time illogical because of cost. i still love it. but a brand new mercury 30 hp motor with warranty is only about $3k. i assume you have more than 3k into your setup by the time you factor all of the parts and pieces to make it a complete system. i know eventually the solar charging will pay itself off, but roughly how long will that be? if i had to guess, several years. i wish the cost of the components would come down so this technology could be more widely implemented.

There's a download link on your page, is this for the needed info to cut parts ourselves with instructions ? I'm all good paying for that precious info...

Hello !!! I'm loking for the same type of setup... Would you be open to sell those ?

I don’t know how accessible the grease nipples would be when everything’s assembled, but it might be beneficial to run extensions that bring them up/out. High up so they won’t be buried in the “engine” bay

Why don't you cut threads into the blocks for tightening the belts. So you could just use the screws to move the motors instead of this ball solution that honestly looks a little sketchy to me.

1st time viewer. I like your channel from the get go No Hype. Just good content with high production value :) Very COoL [and] sub-worthy I might add... And may I say I haven't seen that many "cells" since I was in a El Salvador prison This looks like a GR8T project so I'll pipe down and pay attention. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left (pls call before stopping by)

love the shirt! this project is awesome!!! when this thing hits the water don't forget to give us all the data, Speed, battery draw, rpm, propeller specs, battery voltage, system voltage, wire size, battery draw at 80% throttle and anything else you can think of (That's our crack). Ps you know how you always overthink everything? That is what might be going on with the little ball in the belt tensioner, I have an 81 Corvette that has some belts on it and there is no ball at the end of the tensioner bolts. food for thought, PLEASE keep us posted.

Loctite 271 instead of lock washers. Also, Nyloc nuts are a one time (maybe twice, if you're lucky) use fastener. They are great for what they do but each time they are loosed/tightened they give up a lot of their abilities. Sort of surprised you didn't use a single belt with a spring-loaded tensioner, would have been simpler and probably cheaper and no re-tensioning required. If you're sticking with the v-belt setup take a motor with you when you have you machinist gouge the keyway. If you don't and there ends up being an aberration it's on you instead of him. Thread the adjustment blocks and use a jam nut on the screws to set them. You're making things difficult with the balls. Again, a spring tensioner/single belt would have been so much easier.

IF you have not done so already , can i suggest Get ride of the double grove pulley on the output shaft get rid of the two separate belts replace both with a single belt and single groove pulley for the out put shaft and then in the space more or less where the belts cross eachother just below the inner set of bolts holding the motors to the main face plate add an idler pulley . TOGETHER with your belt tension system you have ALREADY designed , This would be a much easier way to do things and get the same result if you have a concern about belt slipping use a toothed belt . Lesss parts and i feel like it would be a lot easier on maintenance to have one belt to change rather than the two because you could run into the issue as the belts stretch as they wear in they could end up contacting each other making them wear faster and failing . As it is you might have one motor to get back home but i'm not sure how much a single motor is going to propel your 36 foot sailing boat . If you have a situation where you get stuck with only one motor and one is not enough to get you home you might as well not have either , If you know what i mean ? This is only my thoughts . Apart from that i just randomly found your channel and i am not HOOKED !

next video please....

Ya love to see people still using li ion batteries still keep building …looking great 🔋🔋🙌🏾

Loving the content and how it’s coming together. Would some thread lock on those bolts save the need of using the spring washers?

Nice concept! How important will it be to align the rpm of the motors?

you should power coat the whole thing and add another layer of protection

The threaded bolt to tension the belt is a brilliant approach.