My original one with removable 12v pre X Team version did that but only with a low battery? I'd only used nicad power tools before so thought it was faulty at first, but after a bit of research I found out it was due to the BMS protecting the lithium battery from running completely flat. It'll also did this if the pack was too warm. All li-ion tools will do this so I always charge them up as soon as they drop to the red battery status and let them cool between jobs. As for torque, I use mine for polishing and shaping ports on cast iron cylinder barrels with rotary burr's but never had a power issue. I expect if you use it for cutting through metal it might struggle. I try to avoid this as the little cut off wheels scare the crap out of me if they break😬.

You could be right there and it would explain my comment on the new version of tye 240v angle grinder. It could also be the same manufacturer reducing costs though as I have 2 sets of Parkside sash cramps which look the same but the handles are a better quality on one set than the other.

@@Themoporium its difficult to find info but a few of Parkside's suppliers DOES outsource their designs to be manufactured in china. Theyre called Scheppach. There are also Kompernass and Grizzly Tools. They all outsource manufacturing to china. So you have 3 companies, designing or re badging tools to parkside. No wonder there are design discrepancies - even in the same tool.

@@Hoozpoppin It wouldn't surprise me. A lot of brands outsource to Asia or the far east to be manufactured. Unfortunately this enables their designs and manufacturing processes to be copied which results in a lot of generic products.

@@georgemcclelland5207 I can fully charge both of mine from a 5v USB B port on a solar charge controller so the 12v model must be charging the cells in parallel. Both the 12v and 5v Parkside rotary tools come with USB B to USB C cable so they can only charge at 5v as that's the maximum a USB B port can provide. You could probably charge them via a USB C charger using a USB C to C cable but they won't charge at the higher voltages USB C allows as the charger won't go any higher than what the tools are drawing which is 5v.

@@Themoporium I must have yet another version then, mine came with a wall-wart plug adapter to a USB plug at the higher voltage

@@joehart3826 Having been disappointed with some of the Aldi Power craft tools years ago I've stuck with the Lidl Parkside range as I found in general they lasted longer.I do have an Aldi detail sander from the Ferrex range which is okay and I use their reciprocating saw blades as I haven't seen the Parkside ones on sale for a long time.

@@lezbriddon yes I always thought the BMS was able to do cell balancing but they've only recently started mentioning it in the sale adverts so I had to question it when they introduced the new 4.5amp dual charger. I know some of the chargers won't do the very early 20v batteries so may be this due to the difference in cell type?

@@Themoporium yeah i think some of the early 20v were labelled 18v too, I dont have real hardware that old i only started with parkside kit in 2018/2019, I think theres maybe some 12v kit from that time with no balancing....... maybe thats what got them the bad rep and why they started to publicise the balancing, which i think was late 2020-2021. here's an old video from 5 years ago showing the battery has balancing. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eX-Tometj6eheNE

@@lezbriddon The early pre X team 12v stuff was a right pain as the batteries looked the same but the terminals were all different. The drill, oscillating multi tool and rotary multi tool all had different chargers because of this. I still have the drill as I was able to swap the polarity of the terminals inside it to suit the 12v X Team battery but the oscillating multi tool is still on its original battery.

@@Themoporium That's strange, I have what I thought was the very first 12v (not x team) drill they did (actually labelled 10.8v). The battery terminals are the same as the current 12v x team batteries but they changed the position of the location "fins" I suppose you would call them. I just cut off the fins and the batteries work fine in the old drill or the new tools, charger works fine too.

@@caskwith The model number on my pre 12v X Team drill is PABS 12B3. I had to trim off the 2 catches you push in to release the battery to fit the X Team 12v battery. I swapped the polarity on the drill to match the battery because when I attempted the same up grade on my pre X Team 12v multi tool I blew the electronic speed control PCB inside the tool as soon as I pushed the battery in. Needless to say I was a bit annoyed at not checking to see if the polarity was the same first 😒

@@shortymcsteve I will be doing a comparison on the rotary tool soon as I've a few jobs use it on and I'm keen to find out how good it is. The difference in 20v battery specification is a bit confusing. I've also had one that came with a tool that said it would only do 2ah batteries and then I got the same one on its own that does the larger ones. Perhaps it's an error in the manual?

@@Themoporium Yeah, that's possible. Wouldn't be the first time I've spotted an error in the manual. Looking forward to the comparison video!

Germany. Einhell is the professional range, these are for more ‘DIY’. Same company

Designed in Germany, owned by a German company but most definitely made in China. Of course, that also includes some Makita, most Bosch and Milwaukee and some DeWalt which are assembled in the U.S.A. They can then say 'Proudly Built in the U.S.A.' If these tools were made in Germany you couldn't afford them!

where are you i have never had this issue

@@colinblythe3710 In most stores you have to ask for them at the checkout. There's also a cardboard display near the tools showing what's available. I think Lidl started doing this as there were a lot being stolen out of the boxes.

@@lezbriddon Newcastle Upon Tyne !!! Im going to try a bigger store & see if I can get them - I love the little 12v drill but is I can get batteries its useless - Thanks for reply

Had this discussion myself a few months back. I bought a 20v strimmer, thought the batteries must be out of stock, went back several times.. it was my partner, visiting a different store, that pointed out the cardboard sign listing the batteries and chargers has a note along the top that you need to ask at the checkout - conveniently, in the store we visit most, it was placed under a shelf which completely obscured the note. I was talking to the checkout operator and she said they do it to reduce theft. Interestingly, we occasionally head into a different branch, which is on the edge of a less salubrious part of town, where you have to ask at the checkout for the tools as well, they just display empty boxes.

@@johnd6487 we occasionally have a security guard in both my local Lidl stores. Where is the world I used to know where people were decent?

I've got the 20v drill with hammer action and did the same thing and bought another because it was so good not realising they also did one without hammer action. That's also a good drill so I use that for metal work and automotive jobs and the other for diy. The hammer action version is on offer this week though for £19.99 so may get one.

They're a really useful tool in tight spaces. The only thing you have to be careful of (and this applies to all electric ratchet's) is not leaving any space behind the tool when undoing bolts on vehicles. What happens is you undo the bolt but there's not enough room to fully remove it from the part as the tool is right up against a bulkhead or inner wheel arch. You then can't reverse it because they use a mechanical reverse not electric and the direction control is jammed up against the car. It's the sort of mistake you only make once though. Or perhaps twice in my case...

@@chrisharrell2449 I've only seen the inverter stick and mig welders on offer lately. I'm tempted on getting the mig inverter as it's quite compact compared to my old SIP migmate and has variable power control. If the the basic inverter stick welder had more options like switchable AC/DC welding current or a TIG upgrade kit I'd consider one but for now it has no advantage over my transformer type other than weighing less. I've never had a parkside arc welder trip out the electrics because they're only rated at 90 amps. It's when you go over 120amps do you start having issues with tripping 15amp breakers and this is because the welder is usually meant to be used on a dedicated 30amp supply not a ring main. This is why the more upmarket ones don't have a 3 pin plug but I've seen no end of people fit one and then complain about tripping the 13amp fuse in the plug.

@@lancecozad5704 I'll be doing some Riding video's once I can find a camera mount that doesn't keep breaking from the vibration. I've actually recorded 3 so far but either the image is unstable or you get a good shot of the rear of the bike as the camera bounces down the road behind you😒

@@seveni I have the older version which was only rated at 2ah. There is a new version which looks similar that is rated for 4ah batteries but it's a 2 hour charge time. It also states a charge time for the 8ah batteries but they're not available in the UK at the moment. There's also a quick charge version with a cooling fan which is rated for both sizes so you've got to check which one is on offer before you buy. I didn't realise this which is how I ended up with the old version by mistake😒

That's a good idea and I did consider it but it also turns on automatically when you slide it and it's so sensitive it'll do it when picked up. I don't mind taking the battery out as it's really easy to do and has lasted a long time.

@@ptonpc I've pretty much came to the same conclusion.I'm still very cautious of certain power tools after my parkside 240v reciprocating saw failed because of the rotating handle. The cordless 20v doesn't have that feature and it's a really good quality tool.

Totally agree with you. I've had some really good tools from both Aldi and Lidl but I've also had a few bad ones. The Aldi Powercraft stick welder was awful and kept tripping the electrics so i bought the near identical Parkside one and had no issues at all. I was so impressed I bought another as a spare but have never needed it. The Aldi calipers I've had for at least 10 years and were bought as a gift from a friend who also bought himself a set. His are also still working okay but we both store them in the original box and take the battery out when not in use so perhaps that's why they've lasted? As for accuracy they can be recalibrated which is what I'm going to have to do with the Parkside ones. You shouldn't have to do that when new though hence I'm a little disappointed with them.

Interesting, I have an actual workmate I bought about 20 or so years back and the decks/jaws looked very nice but were veneered MDF. So a few years back when they inevitably delaminated, I replaced them with 1 inch marine ply, borrowed a pillar drill for the holes and........drilled them to 19mm as I didn't know 20mm bits were available....doh. Never mind.

@@iandennis7836 My dad still has his B&D workmate from the early 1980's and his has a very high quality plywood top. I think the MDF might be a later version and everybody copied that one. I tried fitting plywood to my Clarke one and managed to get the right size hole saw. What I didn't do is cut the vice jaws dead straight so they don't grip as well as they should.😒

@@Themoporium ah...well I cheated there by getting the sawmill supplying the marine ply to cut the jaws for me so they're absolutely straight......the holes are in the right ace but just a TINY bit too small for the dogs. Edit: whenever I cut or drill using it, I have a 1" piece of chipboard which I clamp in the jaws covering them so as not to ruin them ......😁

So I'm not the only one who sings that when i see the tools in lidl

@@matty7758 I imagine everyone is thinking it 😁

The air/fuel ratio on the SHA carb is fixed unfortunately as there's no needle to adjust. The only adjustment is an idle speed screw. You can fit slides with different profiles though to adjust throttle response at certain RPM's.

@@Themoporium

It was £24.99 for the bare tool but if you don't already have any park side tools in the 12v X range then you'll need a battery and charger which was £15. You'll have the same situation if you go for the sealey so try looking for one that comes with a battery and charger. I'd avoid any of the generic Chinese ones on eBay as the torque and power figures are widely exaggerated.

You can buy it now with the charger and battery for £35

@@cozifpv2069 Yeah I mentioned this in my last Parkside video that it was just about to come on sale as a bundle in the UK. For £35 it was a good deal and I was all set to buy another except my local store only had 2 in stock. I didn't know this until my friend came into work with 1 of them. Of course the other was long gone by the time I got there😒

@@Themoporium I grabbed myself a creeper/stool today and seen these in my local store but I wanted to see some reviews first fingers crossed they still have one for me tomorrow!

If it's been dropped check all the electrical connections as a bad connection at the side stand switch or brake light switches will stop it from starting. These form part of a circuit that stops the bike being started if it's not in a safe position. Also check the connections to the emission control solenoids on the carb and the O2 sensor in the exhaust as issues with these will bring the check engine light on after starting. If these are okay check make sure the engine is getting fuel while starting. The idle jet and circuit in the carb are really small and block easily with dirty fuel. This is a common problem with gy6 50cc engines and will also stop the bike from starting on the motor but will start with a kick and throttle held open slightly. If this is the problem you'll find the engine will cut out as soon as you close the throttle. If this is okay check the vacuum operated fuel tap is opening. If the battery isn't fully charged the starter motor won't turn the engine fast enough to create a partial vacuum in the inlet manifold to open the tap. Test this by taking the fuel feed from tap off the carb. If fuel flows when you kick start it but not when you use the motor the battery and/or the motor is probably the issue.

Thank you for the reply,bike starts and runs when it wants on starter and everytime with the kick,runs and rides perfect once started,will check the sensors asap, thanks for the reply

@@passatv6077 Forgot to mention check the starter motor Bendix drive. I've never known this turn on the check engine light but if it sticks it stops the starter motor engaging with the engine so it just spins.

Check the sparkplug first. If you've got a spark when it's grounded to the cylinder head but it's dry you've got either a carb or fuel tap issue. If the plug is wet but there's no spark you're getting fuel through the carb so check the connections to the ignition coil, cdi unit and the brake levers as you have to pull either of them into to start.

I don't think that matters with classic mopeds especially in the UK where they're harder to find. The owner of this particular bike bought it because it was his first bike as a teenager. Now that he's retired he wanted another to recapture those days riding it in his youth. In that respect it's top of the list.

@@Themoporium ...well there's no match for the emotional value, ....I'll give you a tip, I remeber the performances beeing a bit poor, ...here in Italy the exhaust swap was the first upgrade to go for ....google "proma garelli vip" or "giannelli garelli vip" (remeber, usually the shorter the louder), and update the carb jets with bigger if needed.

The sealey is quite old and designed more like a power drill, so despite the battery being out of the way the overall length is a bit of a hindrance in tight spaces. Modern 3/8" impact guns are much shorter for this reason.

Here in the UK we've only just had the A1 version but in Europe the A2 is available which comes with the battery and charger which I think I'd prefer. If I was a first time buyer I'd be a bit annoyed if the store didn't have the battery and charger on sale at the same time. I'm pleased with it though and I'm interested to see how the plastic power switch lasts compared to the metal ones on more up market tools.