HA! Your auto script translated your "Spinnage" [ Is that a word?] to Spinach ! Popeye'd be proud of ya!

I've done a similar repair. I just silver soldered the sleeve in place. I leave them at 1/2" diameter and use the early Sportster shift levers. They're smooth inside and believe me, it takes a lot to make them slip. And, when they do, there's no damage to the transmission or shaft lever. I once even made a custom stainless shift lever. I'd bet I had less time in that than you did in repairing your shaft. Just another way to think about.

Cool vid, you need a tig!

That is amazing, i never thought it was done this way, its way faster then the press/gouge method. Maybe the factorys have a spline cutting tool that they press over the shaft, but the wear on the tool might be very fast. I could see you would want to do a test run first to really see if the pitch and starting diameter was right. If you get others to do, keep in mind they dont all have the number of splines. Nice video

real nice job.

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have 3 shifter and a couple kick starter shafts that all need to be repaired in a similar fashion. Could you possibly show us the chart for spline numbers? One of the parts I need to fix is the kick starter shaft on my 1981 Maico 490. A replacement part that is difficult to find at best, if not almost impossible. I could easily repair what I have after watching this video. Thanks again.

Wondering why you didn’t just weld the shaft and then turn it down.

The most important thing about knurling is getting the diameter correct. just a few thou too big or to small and you will end up with what you had, a double knurl. I always check the pattern by hand, and reduce the diameter gradually until I get a perfect mesh. Think of a knurl as a round thread. Tool maker 35+yrs.

Good looking tool..

ingenious, nicely done.

I have the same tool you have in the video. I can't remember when I got it, but it was a long time ago. (Its at least 20yrs old) I broke my serrated blade too and made a warranty claim with pictures (did not have the piece that broke off). They sent me a whole new tool in the package and I didn't have to send in the old tool.

soot from the torch also works as welding anti spatter

No staples?! hmm...

A Haimer or a Tschorn 3D analog tester would work better than what you've shown. They are not all that expensive nowadays. I still use the methods you've shown on a drill press or on a part where the tolerance is +- 0.005"

This technique works more reliably if you use a spiral flute tap.

why are you wearing a hat?

Thanks, great video!

That's not a hammer😂

I thought unbonded sand is going to collapse

That gray box you tossed was the brain of the unit. You only needed to give it power and a "call for heat" signal.

how come 70 likes. wtf. great narration man. I enjoyed it. I'll go watch some more of your stuff :)

That round workpiece center finder is slick! Never seen that before. Also never seen lining up the cutter tips with the opposite side of the flat before idea. Never too old to learn.

The paper method on the side is what I was taught in school many moons ago, and it works fine, but the spindle should not be running when touching an endmill on the top of a piece. If using a flycutter, have the spindle in neutral and use a feeler strip on both top and side.

On a very large diameter shaft, the tapered end of the edgefinder can be used to touch of the side of the stock at any height above center where it can. Set a 0 there and then move to the other side of the shaft AT THE SAME HEIGHT and touch the shaft again. You can then move halfway back along the length of the chord of the shaft. This will only work if you touch at the same height on each side (making a chord parallel to the axis of travel), but it's a great way to find the center when you cant reach the diameter.

If you haven't tried it yet, I like to use stainless screen wire and a flat top on my soldering iron. You start with a corner and rub your tip on the wire til it gets hot enough then you can move faster and the plastic will start coming through the mesh and bury it in the plastic a 32 inch or so. You just keep that up til you have one flat edge then if you roll the screen over a 90° edge it will bend to fit and then finish out that side and you will have a steel reinforced edge that you can lightly sand and if you want it pretty then hit it with a heat gun to soften the sanded portion giving you a nice smooth well done piece that lasts. I did this to a polymer saddle stirrup that broke in half on my wife's saddle and just sunk in the mesh on the bottom side. She used that on quite a few horses on the mount side of that saddle for over 6 years riding at least 5 days a week and it's still solid even now 10 years later. The only reason I use the more expensive screen is it's rust proof and you don't need to cover more than a half inch to either side of the break or connection to add 3-5 times the breaking strength and that's just my estimation. She weighed 110 or so but I climbed up in that same stirrup and I was 250+ at the time so just imagine! The piece of mesh I used was 1"×4" at most and the abs was a quarter inch thick.

Bought a Gerber MP800 almost 20 years ago at the PX right before they issued the 600s. Never really used it as I was in training but my less the cleaver mom used the knife as a can opener messing up the knife. Never used it much after as I had an issued one but a few years ago I decided to try their lifetime warranty. Shipped it in got a brand new blade and looks as new. Even returned it in a new sheath.

Very nice work mister. Nice machining. Good video

this is where you break out the TIG, and/or those HF aluminum repair sticks to see which is better

Thx. Needed this video.

I’am going to try this myself this spring,I have an old John Deer snow blower with a 10 horse Tecumseh engine for the drive train and an old wheel barrow and maybe cut the front end off an old riding mower I have join them together so the wheels are the same height it should work with a little imagination can’t wait till spring.

Don't you have a problem with that high density foam,I'm struggling with it I like it for a smooth surface but it doesn't vanish as quickly as eps foam

That's such a good find and repurpose man I'm looking at building one and I have an old tiller I'm gonna try thanks for the ideas

I have had good luck with using wd40 for machining aluminum. 45 years of life experience. Jim

Can't hear you when the saws-all is running. CC couldn't either. But good idea, my machine stands are too low too!

I had to look back to see why I couldn't remember this project. 8 months is way longer than my attention span.

Look Forward to part 3 of 5 coming out around just before Christmas, in this video we will machine up the clamp part and really learn about the limitations of the cast alum and what we can do to change that .

Bit slow getting to this Ryan but I am curious as to why you choose to use a phase converter to power your 3 phase motors rather than a VFD. Keep up the good work Ryan

thanks for the video! really helps a lot. but can we remove the plastic lock part? im planning to anodize the plier

Thank you.

Thank you for a thorough, step-by-step (with important procedural caution points) and good still pic details of hard to see details. Can you buy different blade components from Gerber to repair or swap out? Thank you again for an awesome tutorial video.

Super useful! Thanks!

If it wasn't for you, I wouldn't think it is possible to cast such complex parts in a backyard! What you do is really inspiring

Great video! Question, how did you know that knurlimg wheel was the right pitch for that spline? Also, a few blasts of WD40 would have made quick work at removing the knurled chips ;-)

I know this was posted a couple of years ago, but perhaps you are still active on your channel. I found this same controller/motor, and I wanted to use it to power a small lathe. I got it working. However, using a momentary up/down switch seems to be crazy slow! Like I have to push the switch like 1 millions times (alot :) ) to get it up to 1000RPM! I read on that thread you referenced that someone there suggested that the VR1, VR2, VR3 hooked to a 10K pot could be used to control the motor speed. Did you ever try this? I was not sure I wanted to try it for fear of blowing something out. thanks.

Just read your article in the November/December 2024 Home Shop Machinist re Treadmill Motor to the Rescue, excellent article and now subscribed to your Channel.

Very nice work. Great idea. Just subscribed to your channel.

I have the old aluminum storm windows outside double hung windows and I've been trying to figure out what this pile stuff is even called. I have none in my storm windows except a little brittle piece of plastic thing , i guess they've all rotted out and my windows rattle when the wind blows .

this is awesome I hope to open my own shop one day with a rotary converter I appreciate your open source videos very great work

Please sir acme thread chart want share please

Awesome shop, Man! I hope you continue making videos. I enjoy watching and hearing your knowledge