respect good job

First Comment before this goes Viral🧑‍⚕

the part you didn't recognize is the intake boot or baffle

Venom gloves. Walmart and Lowe’s carry them.

a note..i work on classic Italian cars,, and i deal with rusty nuts and bolts all the a time... best way to remove them with out snaping them of.. spray some oil on the bolt / nut threads.. let soak in a for a few mins,, then this is the important part.. before you try to loosen that bolt/nut... just give a little tighting on the nut/ bolt.. a little more spray lube.. no loosen it.. this breaks the rust bond better.. and if you can.. get a wire tooth brush, and clean the threads off ,also use a little lube on all the fitting to install easier.. line the fuel line in the tank,, the little fitting on the fuel pump.. and do a good cleaning on the snap on fitting.. little spray lithium grease wont hurt

Hope those wires aren’t live , props to you for video it . Hard enough fixing it much less videoing it ✌️

Pŕessure ³/8 Returñ 5/¹⁶

A saddle valve (piercing ?) a horizontal pipe will clog w sediment in a year.If you must use a horizontal run...drill a 1/4 in. hole in the side of the pipe.Humidifier should be on the return to by-pass.

You installed the humidifier backwards, it goes on the drop. The way you put it. The water will drip on heat exchanger causing it to rust.

Great detailed video.

How to upgrade with 22 inch bar on stihl 250 ....

The flat spot on that line should point to the front so the line is pointing to the right side of the saw inside the tank.

Saddle valve eh?

You should be wearing gloves

More like what not to do.

Does it matter what wire goes to a. Certain wire of the solenoid wires?

Thank you for the Video. can you clarify something for me. in my scenario the solenoid valve is supplied 24V DC so i would need to hook up to the HSA 044 AC to DC converter? Secondly one of my wires going to my current humidistat(which i want to replace with my ecobee5C) is originating from the main furnace control board(white multiwire connector) then to the lowfirePS1 switch of my goodman furnace. I believe this is so the humidistat wont switch unless it gets power from the furnace which will only happen when it is on lowfire. Does the ecobee take this into account ie ecobee knows when the fan is running so will only send signal from acc+ when humidity is needed AND when fan is on? Thank you

Great video!!

How much installation charge

Best

Loved the good video and the explanation, plus your patience!

Saya mau tanya pada konten ini tapi takut yang punya konten tidak mengerti bahasa saya

By the way, you don’t have to remove the wheel to change the sensor. It’s just a bit difficult getting that 8 mm bolt out but that doesn’t have anything to do with the wheel. Good video. Thank you.

Did it pick up the leaves when you went across the bridge?

What plug n play wite connector did you use?

Intake boot is what it is. It fits from the carb to the cylinder.

What was your speeds before the set up?

Did you need any special tools to undo the connections for the fuel line and vent? Getting those things off without breaking them seems like half the battle sometimes, they're never the same from one model to the next. Any tips? Tackling this next Saturday on my '16 with 195,000 miles. Left me stranded the other day. Edit to add: I see you have a little more detail on the fittings in the reinstallation part of the video (posted before I was done watching). They seem like they won't be too bad.

How many lights can one of these mowers handle with the factory switch?

The outside bearing race needs to lock up in the axle housing. The rotation is to fully occur in the roller bearings, not by the inside race or outside race.

Using a small amount of gear lube on the bearing race and retainer will certainly aid in pressing them on. Aren't you concerned that the lube will allow the race to spin on the axle since you lived it up? I recommend pressing them clean and dry. If you think you need lube, use Loctite Red.

Wong, wrong, wrong. A bi-pass humidifier goes on the return! Don’t show this anymore. !!!!

3/4 x 1/2 tee with a 1/2 x 1/4 angle stop is the best instead of those garage saddle valves

thank you i'm looking into WHH's and considering doing it myself vs hiring someone. i have no experience with wiring so i might contract someone this part startled me 16:18

I like using that 1/4” vinyl hose for the water feed. Only thing you need to do for the saddle/ piercing valve is swap the brass sleeve for a nylon one

Would u mind letting me know where the carburetor is ? I need to spray the carburetor

This is a great install but I would never do that much sheet-metal work without gloves. I have the scars to prove it!

You didn't show wiring the water valve with the two yellow wires. Is it polarity sensitive?

Just out of curiosity, how many transmission issues have you come across with that car? Im buying the exact same one next Wednesday.

where is the control panel/sensor installed?

Hi Ray, any suggestions for my setup, if I DO NOT have an accessory wire on my thermostat wire? , I only have 4 wires. Y(cool) , G(fan) , W1(heat) , Rh(power)

Normally I would be ok using a hole saw, or a uni-bit to start a hole for my tin snips, but I can't help but feel like all those metal shavings falling down into the heat exchanger in that location are a bad thing. You seem to understand this when you said you'd have to fish out the drop from your hole saw. Use a hammer and a screwdriver to start your hole. Also, I'm watching your video because while I'm familiar with HVAC duct work, I don't know how to install a humidifier. The first video I watched wasn't very good, but they made a good point. They didn't want to put the humidifier directly above the furnace in the plenum because water is going to hit the top of that supply and want to run back down into the heat exchanger. You did exactly what they said not to do. Thoughts? You're going to have a hard time "leveling" your humidifer when you're attaching to a point in the duct with a cross break. That "humidifer pad" is obviously a filter of some type, but I can see other video suggestions on the right hand side of the youtube page calling them a pad as well for some reason. I don't understand why the return is tied into it. I'm not saying you're wrong. I assume you're following the directions. I just wish I knew the explanation. Why would you want unfiltered air going back into the humidifier. That explains the filter in the humidifier though, but I wonder how much Aprilaire charges for replacements, or who thinks to change them. The other video I watched previously didn't show a tie-in to the return duct. Those "hole cutters" are close to $80. Again, use snips. And unfortunately you lost me on the electrical install, so I didn't bother with the rest of the video.

I believe I have the same unit , I keep seeing videos where it's install the return side , I just built nice plenum, and hate to cut a huge square out , rather use for the bypass .. what the Recommended way ? .. i seen in the diagram you showed , in the fine print above saying either one is fine in a forced air system, Pros and cons .. any hvac pros out there feel free to answer

just got the kit was curious if it will work on the stock plastic lines? Has anyone tied if so what results did they have and any tips.