Problem varys but this one took less then 15 mins. Disassemble, clear airlock bubble, reassemble. Took my time to explain things and show a few things. But maybe that's too long for you if your making that much money. I would suggest fast forward the basic stuff talking about screw drivers and explaining the tools.

You could also use a table. The floor was available for me. Not my workbench far away from this.

Depends on problem

Yes.

I'm glad the video was helpful.

No. It's on an online forum for mpg buttons. It depends on your model truck what wires need to be run, if any. Once wires are setup to console display to mpg button harness, then it worked for me. I have read of others just plug it in and it works. Some had to run more wires on a second harness. Took me an HR to get it hooked up, tested it, then reassemble and test again. It's a nice addition on dash display

I needed the special socket, a friend lent it to me. But you should be able to rent it from an auto parts store for little to no money. Most require a deposit. Or you can get a sensor socket kit, I got one from Amazon. It handy to have if you ever need to change an o2 sensor, knock sensor, etc.

I would look for a clog on that attachment

Make sure it's not a thermal fuse on the lead also. But online search via Google pops up a few.

Not sure why it takes you to Amazon should only go to my WordPress page. Can you please provide what you saw?

On my WordPress page.

They do sell an after market parts for them. The chamber, pads, cap, etc. It can usually be found via the part number on part or just looking up parts for your model in Google search, hit images to easily find what looks like yours and then open that link. I use PayPal most times to be ex t ra safe, but may use a temporary credit card number through several services out there.

If it's real bad try a higher concentration. Here's the thing, if its so bad it's better to replace it, then might as well try a higher strength and may etch the surface a little bit, but kinda may be worth it if your going to change the part anyway. Many techs will go farther with something at times to get something running in cases of urgency or emergency. I had rewound a coil for a contactor that was 1 month away via shipping time from China. So I ordered the wire and made a temporary coil. Funny thing is that coil is still working and running machine with no problem so we now have a spare coil ready for when it does need replacement.

There is a better video. People put a few thumbs down and I redid it.

Heres a link to said video kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z2nQfpWYgs-ksNU

Just after 3:00 min mark in this video I showthe screws

Thank you for your response. I ended up just pulling the two sides apart and inspecting the hoses for any leaks or blockage. Could not see anything wrong so I cleaned the removable head and put everything back together. There is steam coming out I just thought it could be better. I tried it without the head as well and it comes out decent without ever using one of these before. I also wanted to take it apart because there is a bit of a noise that I thought is not normal. It sounds like a noise from the component that pumps the steam through to the end. I will look at video again for screw just after 3 minutes. I am watching your other video,. I have all those screws out from behind the two covers. I believe what I did wrong is I have all the screws out but tried to separate the two halves not realizing that I had to pull away the thin outer cover first before exposing the inner halve that has the final screws to loosen before separation. Thanks again. I will see If I can post video to my comment to show you the sound it makes.

Thank you.

It's going to be the same for many things, so would be good to get a decent set from say Amazon or home Depot.com. They sell sets of both security and plain. I recommend security with a warranty. If you can find a set that includes those screw drivers, it may be cheap to go for that.

Need all information to look up a schematic. I would trace that to soure, and see what's in the way

I believe there is a way by removing head and "injecting a solution of clr and water?" I don't remember. Was not my video. But not as good as new if not dismantling, but less complicated. You have to research that and do what you think is best. I say find someone who does like to fix things. Maybe they will do it for cheap to free, you never know.

Yes I will still read this 8 years later. It is in a Toyota Tundra Forum but basically my center console was missing two wires that link to the drive monitor buttons. J28 connector should be the one that links to the back of your display console speedometer temps, rpm, Etc. If memory serves. Here's a link that I believe will help you. I know some had to do 2 sections of wire, I did one set and was good. www.tundrasolutions.com/threads/the-official-how-to-add-mpg-buttons-thread-some-conditions-may-apply.108048/

@@Georges3DPrinters Ok thanks. I did start disassembling the dash today but ran into issues with the column shifter. How did you get it out of the way? Shift in Drive and turn it off?

@@martinbril5619 key in, turn to onbut not start, shifted. Maybe I did shift and key off with e-brake on. But have to shift to get room to tilt top down and clear dash. Little finicky but not bad. Just be gentle

@@Georges3DPrinters I had this exact question. The column shift just seems to be in the way to get the plastic gauge cover off. Thank you. The gift that keeps on giving.

Then I recommend a drill and long bits for the drill. Amazon has some cheap sets that are decent

The right drill is handy for many home projects and available attachments make them more versatile. I can remove lug nuts from my truck with adapters and a 1/4 impact. Makes a tire change go much quicker.

I say clean out the mineral deposits. It's not hard if you use some chemicals. Another person shows how to clean it using chemicals and a brush and then reassemble. Everything in the world needs maintenance and cleaning.

Dismantlement is only for repairs or troubleshooting.

Hello Joe.

Thank you for your criticism. I thought I had mentioned things about the screws. But as for everything, I can't get to technical, because not many will want to watch a long video. I also mentioned why I didn't explain so many different issues. But if you have issues with clogged nozzle, another person did videos on how to de-scale the heating chamber. I would recommend some kind of calcium remover, but recommend vinegar first. Some descalers can damage and pit the metal if not done correctly. I will make a follow up trouble shooting video. Im just busy with other things at moment.

Also, thank you for setting up a new account just to make the comment.

I totally understand. Just thought it might be helpful to indicate. I appreciate the fact that there’s people like you willing to help out the average person with simple fixes. Thanks again!

$30 or so gets you a driver set. You will use them more then once. Believe me. It's why I got some 15plus years ago

I'm sorry could you please clarify? Apologies on my end, a person is going crazy in a comments over dumb stuff.

Been awhile since I made this video. I believe this video covers how I took a different path.

I just remembered I was using the output which was very minimal from the computer to activate a relay instead of directly turn on the headlights. There are very few occasions when you can still get an output from a fried computer in this instance I will still getting an output for the signal to turn on the headlights and this is a mosfet based circuit inside the computer and basically if you ever short out your headlights you fry the computer in the truck which is one of the dumbest things I have seen in this truck. So I'm pulling power from a battery circuit and grounding to the chassis ground next to the computer and I am using the signal for the headlights to actuate the relay so those two wires ground and output from the computer that was original for the headlights go to activate the coil of the relay the relay switch is controlling the power which is going from Battery through the 30 amp fuse into the relay that that hooks up to the headlights

Let me guess because you're a nut?

I make mistakes all the time dude but I can admit when I make them.

Are you just putting evidence as proof that you're very affected by these comments?

No. I'm telling you these space launches aren't over. Chill out nerd. Hahaha

You said talk to you later which means you're now a channel subscriber awesome!

Have to request it. Link is old, but still working. I just have to approve each request

Http://georgeroblesjr.wordpress.com