They are definitely available, not sure of brands

More about that in part 2 😉

Thank you for the kind words!!

These are heavy tilt turn windows, gotta be supported solidly on all sides. For stock vinyl doublehungs that would probably work

@MasonDixonAcres That doesn't matter in nearly every case. The foam has a strength of at least 1.5psi. For a 36in window and a jamb at least 5in deep, that is 270lbs of load the foam can hold. And that is just the bottom. Now add similar amounts for each side. No residential window this size weighs anywhere near that (maybe bullet proof glass would come close). And the load carrying capacity scales with the size, so it is unlikely to ever be an issue. Further if it is a new install, you usually have the nail flange and sealant under it, that holds the load to the framing. The shims are just to get it in the right place. Then on top of that you typically put moldings around the inside that are caulked and painted to it, and sometimes nailed too. The mouldings then nailed and caulked to the wall. You could leave the cavity around it without shims or foam and it would still be secure in nearly every case. Maybe a huge casement window could be an issue as it concentrates the force at the hinge, but it would be an exception.

More to come!

🙌🏼 🙌🏼

It's a lot to take on, but completely worth it. Thank you and best of luck if you go down the road of self building!

Not quite

Couldn't do the service cavity unfortunately, I explain why in the next video. We don't plan to put any fasteners in exterior walls that aren't going through Twinet and into framing, and staying in place. You have to be mindful of it for sure, but if you really wanted to put a big nail or drywall anchor in and then remove it you could carefully cut out a small square of drywall around the hole, tape the hole with Rissan, then patch in a new piece without fasteners

That's the hope!

Cold air leakage causes cold condensing surfaces. Warm humid air leakage causes condensation to form on those cold surfaces. Condensation causes mold to grow. It takes energy to dry a wet surface not drafts. What's changed is the amount of insulation we are packing into the walls to prevent heat loss. In turn this reduces the amount of energy available to dry the walls. In my opinion, if you are going to build with light frame construction, your best option is to use enough continuous exterior insulation to keep the wood materials above dewpoint, airseal at the exterior to keep cold air out of the wall, and use a vapor control membrane on the interior to slow the movement of moisture and allow drying. And, if you don't use an energy recovery ventilation system in these homes you are basically living in a filthy fish tank and don't know it.

“Bad stuff” is handled by the ERV. The real bad stuff is when your house is able to “breathe” in an uncontrolled manner.

It really is. I have no idea what they use for adhesive but it's gummy and extremely tacky with almost no pressure. Apply pressure and it's never moving

The membrane allows drying towards the interior of the house, in the case moisture were ever to get into the wall cavity via condensation or otherwise. At the same time, the membrane does not let moisture into the wall cavity from the interior (showers, cooking, breathing, etc.), meaning the permeability is directional.