Rapidly advancing arthritis I'm afraid. This works for me and means that I can still use her comfortably.

It was a pleasure, thanks for watching.

Unfortunately not that uncommon. Essentially it's a 1940's engine that was never designed for an electric start so it was always going to be a bit heath Robinson unfortunately. On the plus side once you've mastered the technique they're pretty easy to kick start.

A damn fine question, if you don't mind me saying so. I think that it's a number of factors. It always lived in the shadow of the 1100 with it's worlds fasted bike title. Because of that it seems to be a forgotten model. Also I've seen reviews that for some incomprehensible reason pigeon hole them as a girl's bike. And at a time when bikes were sub dividing into different classes (touring, sports, adventure, retro ect.) Kawasaki kept her as an old style all rounder. But sometimes it just happens. All the best Chris 😃

My pleasure Mike, I'm glad you enjoyed it.

My pleasure Mike, I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Kawasaki recommended checking it on the centre stand and I normally set it for 3-4cm freeplay at its tightest spot and halfway between the rear spindle and front sprocket. Don't forget to loosen the rear brake torque arm before you start and tighten it again when you finish. If it's the two bolts at the back on each side don't touch them. It's a hollow square section swingarm and they just hold the adjusters in place. All the best Chris.

Yes you're absolutely right. In an effort to improve the high speed touring ability of these bikes they made significant decisions regarding the steering set up. At slow speed there's a front end weight bias which always feels like it's pushing the front wheel out. I still love the bike though 😃

My pleasure. As it happens mine has also gone but luckily she's easy to kick start...

Thanks for your reply, I was wondering just that, l have seen an Electra X with a dude starter in otherwise mint condition going cheap, l was thinking just remove it and enjoy the kickstart....🙂 You should do some more RE videos, you will definitely get views and subscribers......@@christopherwhite5210

These came standard in the UK with a mikuni (or mikcarb copy) 28 or 29mm CV carb. Not noted for being the best but functional if looked after.

Hi. It really does depend on the bars. The ones I used have somewhere around a 3/4 inch rise which given the drop of the standard bars ended up with about a 7/8 inch difference. I just got away with the standard cables rerouted. You probably will have to change brake lines though, never risk stretching them out as forks can extend when they leave the ground. The biggest issue that I've heard concerning street fightering these bikes is the ram air system. You either have to find a way to incorporate the pipes at the front for full power or remove them and lose some power at the top end when moving. Whatever you do good luck with it. Best wishes Chris.

@@christopherwhite5210 thank Chris figure something out Ider that or I'll have to buy a new full set of fairing which will cost 600 euro or just put straight bars on and drive it as it is and try seal the cracks mostly the Right hand side but it's not major damage I only paid 1k for it so I don't want to be spending major money on it it's a good bike though no other problems

You wouldn't want the cat. She's only barely domesticated and is mentioned in the UN weapons of mass destruction treaty. If you value the skin on your body avoid 🤣

@@christopherwhite5210 Thanks for the heads up-whew!

That's my pleasure. Remember to check the bike over properly and if possible get a test ride. This is not just to check for problems but to see what you think of it. I love mine but they're not for everyone performance wise. Best regards Chris...

Hi. I've never had to do it myself but most other accounts of this that I've come across online the owners did talk about engine strips. I believe that I did postulate in the video ( it's been a while since I've actually rewatched it myself) that it might be possible to just turn the removed engine upside down and remove the lower crankcase for access but luckily I've never had this issue. All the best Chris.

Hello mate. The truth is that there are so many variables involved that the only really guaranteed way to get it right for your bike is to assemble everything exactly how you want it (take your time here on everything from bar angle to lever angle) and then measure up for the lengths. Remember to allow some slack in them as if the wheel leaves the road surface for any reason such as bumps the forks can extend as well as compress. And if you're using the standard three line set up only the line from the splitter to the reservoir should need changing.

Thank you, and best wishes...

Cheers mate. Ride safe and all the best Chris...

Enjoy her mate, they're great bikes. But give yourself time to get used to the power delivery, it's deceptive for a 600.

@@christopherwhite5210 Had a GSXR 600 last year, the ZZR is good for me, much more relaxed ride, the power delivery is much smoother on the ZZR

Hi. It's really worked out well for me. I find her a lot more comfortable now

@@christopherwhite5210 cheers Christopher I've been looking at the ABM conversion too. could you tell me the length of the brakes lines you had to put on so I can get some on order please

@@MichaelThorpe-bd5zh I'm afraid that's a bit of a 'how longs a piece of string' question as there's so many variables. The only way to be absolutely certain is to do the conversion and then measure the difference, remembering to leave a bit of slack for safety. It's worth checking for companies local to you that can make up lines on the spot as that saves all the waiting.

@@christopherwhite5210 ive got b&c express in the next village from me so I'll measure up when ive got it installed. I sent for the one from cncmoto as ive got the risors and footpegs from them before. Hopefully should arive on Thursday ready to go on at the weekend

@@MichaelThorpe-bd5zh I used the CNC moto kit myself. It's a good bit of kit, well made with no fit issues.

Thanks, they're pretty underrated. Ride safe and all the best Chris White.

Hi Sandra. Now that's quite a request as virtually every Enfield tends to have its own quirks but I'll happily give you some hints that might help. I'm going to assume that you have an Electra x running the standard CV carb like mine. Obviously turn the fuel on first and then pull out the choke. On the choke there is another click position half way between off and fully on, push it back to that. Mine is often troublesome starting on full choke so I always use that middle setting. With the ignition off pull in the clutch lever and kick her over a couple of times to free off the clutch plates. Ignition on and here we go. If you're using the electric start open the throttle just a fraction and press the button. Be gentle with the throttle until it's caught properly and turn the choke off as soon as it will take it. If you're kicking her over you need to know when the engines on its compression stroke. Basically the kick start will be noticeably harder to move. Slowly and carefully move it past compression, using the decompression lever if needed. It'll feel like the kick start frees off. Stop pushing, take your foot off it and allow the kick start to return to the top. Release the decompression lever if you're still holding it. Now open the throttle a fraction and kick her over as fast and hard as you can. Repeat as necessary until she starts and turn off the choke as soon as the engine will run without it. I hope that helps and good luck Chris White.

Hi Gary. I used standard diameter 7/8 bars with about a four inch rise which essentially puts the end of them about eight inches higher than standard. I find them very comfortable at this height and didn't personally need to change the footrests although adjustable ones are available. I don't recall having any trouble with the switchgear wiring at all but remember to remove the locating pins from inside then or you'll never be able to tighten them down properly. Good luck with it and all the best Chris White.

@christopher white Thank you. We have the high renthal bars on it now. It is a cracking riding position. I'm thinking of doing the same to my zzr1100.

Can you tell me what route you put the clutch cable? I'm struggling to get it to fit. Thank you. Keep up the good work.

@@garyhenderson1873 I didn't have to change it but can't recall off the top of my head. I'll have a look tomorrow and remind myself.

I've had a look mate . From the lever it goes under the frame behind the bottom yoke and down across the back of the radiator to meet up with it's original run on the right lower frame rail. It's tighter then standard but there's still enough slack for safety.

Hi Sandra, thanks for liking the video. I will be starting to do more videos in the new year as I haven't downloaded any for a while. I will certainly consider doing service videos. Thanks again and happy new year 😃

Thanks...

Thank you, it was my pleasure...

Thanks so much for the comment and all the best Martin.

Front plate not illegal but optional delete

My pleasure, I hope that it helps.

Hi mate. The physical components of the conversion can only fit on one way, the harder bit is rerouting cables and the suchlike but that's all covered in the video. And my bike is also an E so no problem. All the best Chris White.

@@christopherwhite5210 Thank you brother. Now I have closed the motoseason, I will prepare for the next one. After 300,000 kilometers, my back hurts. I hope your video will help solve the problem with the position of the back when driving. Sincerely, Artem Kunaev.

Thanks for your opinion Roly, and although you are entitled to it I do of course disagree. This bike is used mainly in an urban setting and the higher handlebars take some weight off of the front end, which combined with their width make it far more nimble then standard as well as more comfortable at slower speeds. The double bubble screen allows high speed use with no real loss of useable performance. And of course it can easily be put back to standard if I want. All the best Chris White

These are good solid bikes but there are things to watch out for. If it's just had an MOT I'm assuming that it's carbs have been recently sorted. I've got a buying guide for these that should help, clicking on my account should give you access to all my videos. £700 sounds good though...

Thanks for that, and I absolutely agree with you concerning my lack of technical abilities. Out of all my videos so far this is the one that makes me cringe the most 🤣

Hello Daniel. The plug number is LR12C and as far as I know they are only available from F2 motorcycles. They prefer you to call, 01945 410165, and they'll probably ask you about your bike just to check. All the best Chris

@@christopherwhite5210 thanks chris thats great

@@murffff A pleasure mate...

Well that's good for me then, at least my work doesn't stick out like a sore thumb!

Same year as mine, an E7 probably. They're great bikes so enjoy. Good luck with the carbs...

Not a fraction of what it was before, and it's done a few thousand miles with it now. To me that's a win that cost pennies...

I think that you respectfully look into your dates again because Hitchcock's and every expert that I've seen including Peter Henshaw all quote 2008 as the start of the uce engine. Obviously I'll go with them. As to the lean burn engine go for it mate but check that big end and starter sprag. All the best Chris White.

I very rarely use technical terms as my video is aimed at bikers using it to make bits not full on machinists. As to not knowing what I'm talking about I know enough to make the bits I need to. Don't need to know more then that to be honest. Look at the title of the video again.