@@joenitro9024 Nope. I sent it back and got a refund.

@@playthebside13 original tail light, I just changed the bulb. I don't have the bike anymore but I think I remember the cover coming off to replace the bulb with just one screw on the bottom.

It's well worth it to me. Random note on your username, my first car was a 96 Accord with the vtec f22b1 engine.

@@OpticalToxin oh awesome man! Yea mine was fully built and boosted making 500whp but daily at 330whp. She was a great car.

I was pushing on the cap when I was turning it. Apparently on my car you have to lightly put the gas cap in place and turn without pressure. Maybe try the same and see if that works. Haven't had an issue with this since I learned this about the car.

This car has all the looks and a fraction of the performance. 🤣

Thank you! It was a great motorcycle to me. I replaced that bent clutch lever and sold it last weekend.

It shouldn't jerk but I had to play with the settings to get it just right for me. I also have 2 different settings for street vs track. Track is way too aggressive for the street and will be jerky. The key for me was the clutch set and turning down the blip % to 35 on the street. Here are the settings I have in my notes: Changed B from 60 to 35 Changed T from 60 to 30 Try that and see where it gets you. I might have updated the settings without updating my notes but I know those settings felt better than how it shipped. It shipped with a very aggressive blip.

@@OpticalToxin thanks man I’ll take your advice into consideration

@@feardc2050 I went back to my car and found my current settings that I used in this video. These are how they appear in the Xloader/BlipControl software from Xineering Blip: 50% Duration: 300ms Buffer: 300ms Delay: 0ms Clutch set %: 30

@@OpticalToxin I have trouble with tuning too for my C5Z. Since its a set amount of throttle blip. Going from 5th to 4th need less rpm then from 4th to 3rd.

@@FronkG set it up to autoblip into 3rd and 2nd primarily. Blipping from 5 to 4 happens less often and you can just wait a split second longer to let the RPMs drop to release the clutch. When I had the blip at around 35% it could do the higher gears better but it didn't have enough umph for a high rpm 4->3 or 3->2.

TT 10 speed Mustangs are a force to be reckoned with.

Don't let it fool ya, it's a big turbo car.

Lmao you're all illiterate 😂

I would think yes since they are LEDs but I can't say for sure. The headlight is one without a fan so there isn't any extra power draw there. SEALIGHT H4 9003 HB2 LED Motorcycle Bike Bulb, 6000K Xenon White www.amazon.com/dp/B071Z7RHYM/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_FZ7SH9Q5CVWFDHMMCAMR

"Syneticusa 1157 Red LED Stop Brake Flash Strobe Rear Alert Safety Warning 12-LED Light Bulbs" on Amazon, but the generic terms "1157 LED strobe bulb" should get you to a list of options. The headlight bulb is a generic H4 LED bulb that I spent less than $50 on. I'm not sure the headlight helped but the taillight is much more noticeable.

@@OpticalToxin did you have to install a resistor to make the rear light work?

@@scholzdigital Nope, just take the old bulb out and pop the new one in

@@OpticalToxin awesome! Ordered mine.

Got mine and they work awesome. Thanks for the video!

I would if I could; I don't have calipers to measure these and I don't have an original bracket to compare to the machined one. I bought a kit and had a shop install.