@@Юрий-ф5б3о Muchas gracias!

Hi Matt! Thanks for your comment! And I'm glad you liked the door and the joke. I'm completely on your side about the paint, it wasn't until I was finished sanding that the customer revealed the grand finale idea. I know... all that time arranging the grain for better features and being careful not to mark it or scratch it! I hope someday I can make another showing the true character of wood. Any wood will do. Just not paint. The assembly table sounds like a great idea. I have one, but too small and too high and full of stuff on top I don't know where to put, sharing the same destiny as my little table saw these days. It's so easy to start and it always becomes the perfect shelf. Glad you like my work. Woodworker as well?

@@diegobernasconi I am a woodworker. On the table idea, I've more or less made everything in my shop roll on casters, so there's flexibility. I've seen people build an assembly table around a scissor lift, too.

@@mattelias721 yes, wheels sound great, I’m coming from a small workshop and moved into this one, over double the size, so I’m so precious about free roaming space! Thanks for the advice. “When I get the time” I’ll get on with it. Famous words.

@@karluskasttro4538 Hi! Thanks for your comment, although I’m hoping you meant it’s a “pure” work of art, or perhaps a “poor’s” work of art (because of using all sorts of bits), and not a work of art made poorly!

@@ІгорБрикайло-з7д Hey! Thank you very much for your comment, in fact, I often wondered if people preferred with music or just real life sounds. I’ll take your comment as a useful criticism and the next one shall be without music. Also, I learnt to edit as I made more pieces, so if you do watch “all” my videos, I would advise you to miss out on the earlier ones as they are barely edited and perhaps a bit too long. You’ll hate the music as well, it was the beginning of learning how to use the music program! Anyway, thank you for you message, hope you like the rest. Diego.

@@diegobernasconi I love music. But I think that the one with accompaniment is not suitable. It is very monotonous.

@@jimmiemurvin1871 Hey thank you! Very happy you like it. It really was great fun to design and make.

@@gingerfishcreations I used clear semi-matt Osmo. It worked great bringing up the features of the spalted beech. I used to use Liberon Finishing Oil and that was easier to apply. I always found Osmo quite sticky and much less forgiving if you don’t wipe everything thoroughly!

@@diegobernasconi Thanks for the reply :) I am always looking to find new ways to finish different types of wood. Loved the end result of this piece!

@ ah! In that case there is a video I did a few months ago about finishes, title is Lucero Company hardwax oil. Hope you find useful information!

@@mattelias721 hi Matt, thank you, glad you like it! I did’t use the shooting board and hand plane, I didn’t even think about it until you mentioned it, to be honest. I just made sure every end was square and started building from there, but also many of the longer pieces met edges only once, and then cut the overhang with the cross cut saw. I wanted to do it as random as possible rather nice and tidy and square, that’s why I even put some bits perpendicular to the rest, something pretty much “forbidden” in furniture making. Looking forward to seeing your design! Good luck, you’ll need a lot less bits than you think. I ended up using about half of the ones in the video.

@@googiemann5972 exactly my thoughts. I was told about the decision as I was pretty much finished. Couldn’t believe it. There I was being so careful with every step to then realise it didn’t matter because I could have used wood filler if something went wrong. I loved the look of the oak, choosing the best grain for the stiles and rails, making sure it was perfect. Ah well, I got paid, I suppose. Very glad you liked the video, thanks for your comment. Another video coming up soon!

@@DRJMF1 Hi! It’s a Startrite SD31 12” x 8”, single phase. It has 3x 310mm long cutting knives so it’s very wide for planing and thicknessing. The max. Thicknessing height is 230mm. I really like it, very well made and easy to use. Some more info from the internet: The tables lift together with one hand. The feature is called “parallel Table Lift” Rubber Outfeed Roller - Protects the timber from being marked, ensuring a superior finish. 3 Knife Cutter Block - A proven industrial design, the 3 knives of the cutter block ensure a smooth finish. Fence tilts to 45º - The fence can be quickly tilted to 45º with the simple to use fence mount system. Dust Hood Retention Catch for Safety - This catch eliminates the risk of the dust being accidentally removed and therefore exposing the blades. Easy to Use Cam Action Table Lock - The tables are locked in place in seconds with the easily accessible lock levers.

@@amasonsson I know! I really hated the decision of painting it black and white. Such a shame to miss out on all the beautiful grain, medullary rays and little hidden features that I’ve been placing in special parts of the door! Ah well…glad you liked the video. Thanks for the comment! Another video coming up soon.

@@jordaust thank you Jordan! Great to hear you enjoyed it. That was the first time I tried stave core and the door is still there hanging and opening like the first day. Very pleased with it. Unfortunately to make stave core doors for a living, I reckon you need different machinery, not very accessible for us small businesses, but at the same time I pride myself by using, as you say, common tools, that are more ready available, affordable and in many cases you need to use your own initiative, imagination and logic, as opposed to pressing “enter” and let the machine do it for you. So important to keep it alive! Thanks again, keep cool. D.

@@diegobernasconi I really appreciate this reply. It speaks to my desire to use a bit of initiative and imagination to find good ways of building with a core set of tools. I also forgot to mention that I'm so thankful you showed how you made your drip edge, as drip edges are so uncommon here in the States, it's hard to get good ideas of how to get a good profile, etc. Thanks again!

Grazie molto! Glad you liked it.

@@jobophoto thank you! Glad you found it helpful. Yes, I was very impressed with L.co. I’d like to do another video about their stains, especially the white oil stain which I thought was excellent. And I’m not into staining wood… I was perhaps also too negative about Liberon, while actually I really like their “finishing oil” and “quick drying Tung oil”, it’s just it didn’t do as well as the others with the wine, orange juice and coffee. But it is a lot cheaper than the other 2 brands. It’s really worth a try. Just make sure you wipe it quickly enough if you spill liquids. I’ve used them (Liberon) for many years and never had a problem at home or at clients’. Good luck with your Osmo tin! Quick question, are you using gloss, matt, semi matt, satin? Thanks again, and thanks for liking the video. D.

@@diegobernasconi I will keep the Liberon products on my list to try, sounds like there is a place and time for them. I’ve been using the OSMO Clear Satin and, on the few projects I’ve used it on, am happy with its looks and performance. I’d like to see a video about the stains. I’ve only used stain once (like most of the things I’ve done in woodwork, I’ve only done them once! 😀) to restore a table top as a learning exercise. Be good to see how you use them. Regards JB

@@askor2000 thank you very much! I’m delighted you like the video. Now it’s your turn to make a door! D.

​@@diegobernasconi Ha. I'm good on doors. Working on a shelf and desk, and have two wardrobes in the queue. And just installed 23 ft of very similar louvered fence. 75ft to go :(

@@askor2000 ah! Keeping busy, that’s the way. Good luck with it all, a desk would be a great project for me. Enjoy!

@@addammadd Ha! A good way to bring in public from all walks of life! Hope you liked the door and the music…

@@vickileonard72 thank you! Glad you like my work. And the door looks fantastic in the coastguard’s cottage, even if I say so myself…

@@juanmallqui9309 yes! I know… I wish I did too. Guests were arriving on the afternoon and there was a big race against time. I didn’t want to be worrying about filming and my video technology doesn’t let me record for more than about one hour until the memory card is full… All I can say is that it went pretty smooth, and breaking and cutting up the old door frame into pieces the take it out was quite unnerving as then there is no way back. I made the new door frame about 10mm bigger at top and sides and planed/chiselled it to fit snuggly. But I had help to fit it, so I can’t take full credit for that part. As there is no video of the other person installing, I’m still the hero of making it, which is the important part. Glad you like it! It means a lot. Thank you. D.

@@lacharpenterieMaillienMichael gracias! Hey, nice channel, great work, lovely accent.

@@HugeBulkingtonMcGoochy thank you! The idea of gluing up stock face to face and veneer over (“stave core” construction method) is to stabilise the stiles and rails, so they shouldn’t warp, crack or split with the changes in humidity and temperature on both sides of the door (if it is an exterior door). But it is important that the “veneers” aren’t too thick, as once this happens, it will start to behave as solid wood. On this door I cut the veneers at about 4 mm thick. I think you can have them thicker but I didn’t want to risk it. The main difference with solid wood is that it can expand, bow, twist, split, crack and shrink more over time, if you are unlucky. This is for an exterior front door for a rental cottage next to the sea, with sun, rain wind and use and abuse of guests… A stave core door will (hopefully) keep it’s straight flat shape for many years, as it keeps the wood’s integrity (something to do with the density, quality and strength of the wood). I think the technique is coming as far as the Egyptians making sarcophagus, not sure if even before that, but I saw it myself in the London museum (for free!) and those things are still complete and stable, many as stable as when made. I think copying how people did things in the past is a good way to make things better today. The problem with stave core is that it takes a lot longer to make than a solid door, unless you have all the expensive machinery, presses and workshop space. If you have the time and can afford stave core for a living, that’s great. I can’t really, but wanted to make it right and for it to last, not worrying about it later. I also never did stave core construction before, so I thought it was the perfect time to get some experience. Glad you liked my work!

@@diegobernasconi Thank you for the reply, I really appreciate it. I was thinking that glueing stock face to face and using it on edge would help with strength and stability. I’m 31 and I’ve been doing woodwork for a living for about ten years. I do furniture and custom cabinetry so I have experience with mortise and tenon techniques. I’ve made all kinds of cabinet doors but I’ve been really wanting to do a big, nice entry door for quite a while. Your video of very informative and inspirational to me. I hope I get the opportunity soon!

@@HugeBulkingtonMcGoochy Wow! Great to hear. Thank you. Ya, have a go at your door, just make sure you have enough clamps! Good luck with it. Maybe some day we’ll all watch your video.

Hi! Thank you for your comment, glad you like it! The door was agreed to be made as similar as possible to the one replaced. The 45degree profile was to allow rain water to fall, as the cottage is a few metres from the sea and it gets thrashed by the weather. But I was just copying the old design. I also don’t really like the black and white colour, I much prefer the natural oak look, but the door wasn’t for me and the owners had a clear idea of what they wanted… Thanks for watching!

@@diegobernasconi Thanks for your reply, makes total sense with the rainwater and of course the customer's wishes.

And they say the client is always right…🙄​@@andreasmeerkamp8627

Eh! Me alegro que te guste! Muchas gracias. 👍🏽

Hi! He is a rescue dog, his name is Lolo and he was found in a bin bag in a ditch with his 6 brothers and sisters… He is about a year old and we think he is a mixture between dog and cockerpoo, but cooler. D.

Thank you! And thanks for subscribing too. More videos coming soon!

@@diegobernasconi The Tornado project brought me here, a truly fascinating blog and great to see images of the pre production stages, I hadn't noticed the round cube!! And your other work, is simply exquisite!

Ah! I’m glad you liked the Tornado project. It was quite surreal working on it, as I got to be fully as an insider in the venture. The work of Simon Fearnhamm was very meticulous and pilot Ady really knew what he wanted. I got the easy part, really. Good to know you already recognise the inlayed cube!

Thank you, Ryan. I have 3 old record vices, n52 at the end of the bench, n52 1/2 on the right and n53 on the left. Both vices on the front I got from car boot sales and the smaller one I exchanged it for a drill driver I wasn’t using anymore. Glad you like the workshop!

Thank you for your comment, Peter. I'm glad you like the video. Any guidance or recommendations welcomed!

It does mix, especially on very open grain woods, but I regularly clean it up, sometimes with a softish brush (from dustpan and brush) and vacuum quite a few times within the process of sanding. I also wipe it with a damp cloth (with water) before I lightly sand it and vacuum again. You’ll be surprised how stained the cloth will come up. Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much! There will be indeed more videos coming up soon, covering pretty much all steps of the way, plus a few little nuggets. And Wacky Woodies will be a next project sometime soon(ish). Thanks for watching, subscribing and liking!