Whats the red thing called? The red and black plug

Wow!! Thanks to you I can finally put my seat down. The dealership quoted me 1500 to have it repaired. I have no problems doing it manually.

Does anyone know if you can just replace the voltage regulator independent of the alternator?

So when my mechanic tells me it's 4hrs of labor, that's bs right?

Don’t scap it 😢

I got the P0171 code Bank 1 up srteam. So is that front or rear? Thank you

alright so do you know anything about a 2.4 2014 that doesn’t even have crank intermittently, my girlfriends car will start and run them sometimes it literally will just not, we turn the key and no crank to start like it’s just not getting power, any ideas? have you seen this before?

Confused me when you called it a starter hehe.

you can also pull the cam shaft position sensor (not the shaft) and put the timing mark on zero, if a toothpick fits in the side whole of the CSPS you're good.

Gidday pretty cool I have a 58 savoy 4 door sedan what happened to the 413 he had keep the videos coming

Would I be able to ask a mechanic to check the grounding? I had recently had my car tested and I was told it could be grounding or the alternator but I’d rather find out if it’s the grounding first.

Your bracket is missing that’s connected to the alternator up top

Thank you. Well explained by details, I really like the video, can't be better than that

Can you assume the gap on the spark plug is good? I remember mechanics in the 1970's would check each one.

Bad ground wouldn’t throw a check engine flash though

probablemente tu motor de ventana no este dañado solo este atascado, suele suceder por muchas variantes, la solución es solo desmontarlo y fuera del carril de la ventana y hacerlo funcionar por unos segundos y luego reinstalar y volverá a funcionar, suele suceder que cerrar la puerta fuerte la ventana vibra y descoloca los dientes de engranaje, haciendo ese sonido de "clik" atascando el nivelador del engranaje.

Kind of a similar problem on a 2015 that I have, 5 months ago no start, no crank cycle the start button probably 12 times or more. Finally started. . Just yesterday happened again yesterday but no starting this time at all without having to use a jump box. There was no cranking sound at all like a dead battery or a starter trying to struggle it was just a click from under the hood just like a relay click,, analog gauges were also flickering. The car started via the jump box" then once it did start, you can hear the load on the alternator because the battery is charging. There's something causing draw and I have no idea what it is, perhaps a relay hanging open. Either it's BCM starter T14, or ECM starter T20. Anybody have any idea which relay I should replace I got the relay the auto parts gave me for the starter relay, by it realize it might have been one of two potential ones to go bad.

Good evening, I have the same problem but it doesn't do it all the time.

Have the same problem with my 09 challenger. I removed this part from under my door panel but when I look up the part number (68051931aa) it’s called a “door control module” not a window motor. Is this correct? I seem to have the same problem as you in the video. I hear the power when the switch is plugged into the “motor” then when I unhook the motor, no power.

just noticed the MD tag. what part of MD are yall in?

Did you wipe off the brake cleaner before putting on the anti seize

How come you didn’t show draining the coolant out of radiator first

Just had ignition switch housing replaced on 2010 ford escape replaced. Before replacing car would not crank or start. Car now cranks but no start. Battery and started had tested food. Any ideas?

If you pull the filter housing and tube it's alot easier. Can change mine in about 25 mins lol. Save alot of time.

Best Dart starter video on the web. I was dreading that top business. Started doing it and said f this I need to find another video.

I have exactly the same problem, I have changed the spark plug multiplier and the problem remains the same. I tried injector cleaner. And valve cleaner again the problem remains.. now I'm thinking of changing the camshaft adjustment control valve.. can you think of what else i can do wrong.

Just did my alternator today on my 2015. You should just take the air box off. Makes it easier.

Great job!!! Thanks 😊

Thanks, I just needed to stow the SOB!

You really missed the good part how to remove it from the body to outside😢

Bro this video saved me so much time! Thank you so much

Also sometimes if your valve cover gasket is leaking. Oil can get all over the starter. Take out connector clean with a little contact cleaner.

Thank you very much. I never would have thought these were on the back hubs. I have one of the front that I need replaced.

Thank you for this video! You saved my ass a lot of time and money. I will say that if you disconnect the starter wire from the battery and undo those 3 clips you can pull the wire down enough to make it easier. Dodge can go to hell for where they put that damn thing though.

The whole problem from start to finish was NOT the car, but it was and IS the owner! The owner IS His own worse problem and enemy! He sounds totally incapable of doing ANY mechanical work! Those cars are so mechanically basic, and so easy too! So, why would you put a message on the screen say it's been one issue after another with the car as your explaining the story? No, you had the worst kind of customer that F***ed that car all up and he couldn't tell you what he done wrong! And you couldn't believe he was that dumb, and you had to go through the whole process of finding out what and how he f***ed it all up. From now on, YOU have to watch out for those kind of owners/ customers that will bring YOU their neverending nightmares that they created in the first place! This is a problem with these younger generations. The education system has dumbed down things so bad, and basic mechanics has not been taught and been taken for granted. A lot of broken families and not enough father influence. This is more common today with people and it plays out in so many different ways. People that have no sense can ruin a car real fast. And oh, btw, someone made too much of a big of a deal about leanburn systems and told bad advice, on how he should get that off of there and go to a basic ignition module. This is more ignorance! And talk about jumping to conclusions! Not all leanburn systems are the same. The ones that were problematic were the early 2 plug/ 2 pickup systems of 4 barrel motors in the 70s. All leanburn systems that have 1 plug/ 1 pickup are very basic and reliable and last and last! I and my friend have these cars. 2 1981s and one 83 one 85 have original leanburns and they keep going and do not give a hint of trouble.

my seats fold up and down just fine.....the problem is that the lobster claw mechanism wont lock onto those c clamps on the ground, tried spraying wd-40 onto to see if it would make the claws latch and it didnt work. Does anyone know if replacing these cables would fix that issue?

We're having a dickens of a time with my '85 Fifth Ave. It also cranks but has a terrible time starting. Once warmed up, it runs well and restarts quickly, but as soon as it cools off, the games begin again. It does run a little rough, too. We've replaced a LOT: Carb, distributor, cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, you name it. SO frustrating. I had a wonderful '88 but foolishly sold it a few years ago, so I just bought this one, and have gotten so frustrated.

This is a GREAT video !! Thanks so much,it really helped me.

this time the problems were obvious. Sometimes not. Good video

On the fan shroud belt routing

Thanks for posting the video - my comments are only here to help others who may be searching. As others mentioned, no need to pull the fuel rail. Some jiggling and lack of care of damaging the body panel gets the alternator out in a few minutes of tugging. With the pulley facing down, I had one attachment hole on either side of the intake. After watching this video I was able to get it pulled in about 20 minutes. Other tips: - Throttle body - you can leave the wiring connected and flop it on top of the valve cover still connected. - Tensioner - Pin it with an allen wrench coming in from the frame rail side. Also - It can stay in place and you can still get the alternator out.

I had the same problem, replaced the coil pack but unfortunately it only lasted for 1year 7months. As I type this I need to replace it again 😏 where can I get a manufacturer’s one? I’m in SA

Thank you! My 5 yo threw up all over the second row seat 😭. And my cable is just stuck on both seats sides though. I'll just have to save for the garage to fix it. But your video was great!

Thankyou!!!! THIS IS LEGITIMATE ! I used this yesterday, if you dont have a spare wire, use the black(negatives)ends of a jumper cables to do the ground test*. My car started right up with a spark! I took the bottom cover off and sandpapered the top copper connection and managed to spray it down with WD40 parts cleaner. Took the bottom one off and cleaned it up, and the car started! Drove it to work today up to highway speeds, seems alright 😊

boy.....when you look at all the work to get to the module....you have to ask yourself, where is that dang engineer that dreamed this up!?

So I did this and the car started right up. And I've started it up several more times with no problem does that still mean it's the ground?

Great video! Thanks for showing all the steps. Very thorough. It made fixing the seat a breeze. Thank you very much.

i had a little oil around one of my plugs, an inner one, so i tightened that middle bolt under the coil and so far so good. of course it can only tighten just so much with the metal insert in the plastic.

As the oil pump drive to cam gear relationship wasn't messed up on the original, you shouldn't have had to mess with the oil pump. If the upper part hasn't broken off the shaft, you don't even need to be at top dead center. You just need it to be in a known indexable location. I chose to align the tall part of the shaft parallel with the block. With how course the gear is, a tooth off in either direction is very noticeable.

thanks will go with gm all the way