Yeah, I'm still figuring out the best camera angles.

Wow, that's rough for new buyers. I may have to see if I can get a new one and do a follow-up review for the most recent offering then.

If you did the wiring yourself it may be easier to trouble shoot, if didn't and had a shop do the install take it back to them and have them troubleshoot. There are tons of things it could be. My initial thought though was did the amp turn on lead somehow get connected to a wire that only gets power while in park or neutral, and the amp is turning off so you don't get enough juice to get sound.

@ thanks for your fast answer :) I found out what the problem was: nowhere in the manual was said, that the blue/white amp wire needs to be connected to the blue antenna wire that comes out of the head unit. Now everything works perfectly and I am just glad about it ;)

So your initial thought was just right on point! Thank you for your help 🫶🏻 with the best wishes from Germany 🇩🇪

A lot of these small jump packs are very impressive. I ran into an issue about a week ago where I needed to move my 3-Series, and could not find any key but the valet, and had the battery disconnected. I was able to start the car using the posts under the hood only powering the car from a small jump pack similar to this one.

Always glad to be able to help out!

You shouldn't have to leave the jumper pack powered on to charge it.

It's not meant for charging the battery, only jump starting.

Exactly. It all depends on how much $$ and effort you want, and if you care about it looking nice and functioning.

@@DriverJsGarage yep pretty much. I spent around $80 to swap out my center console with the cage and bezel but it took me a good amount of time to get everything and install it all

Thanks for your comment, came here to do this because I installed a console and want to eliminate the gap

What did you do to make the HVAC controls fit?

@Immortalisgod i took out the cage and the rear bracket in back that holds the radio and the ac controls and I put one in from a 03-06 truck

Apologies I don't check comments daily. If you've already solved the issue what did you find? If you haven't solved it yet. Did the rear's work before you put your new head unit in? If they did, then I'd start with the Head Units settings ( speaker fade specifically), if that's not it I would look at the wiring on the head unit side, make sure the rear speaker output wires match the right pin on your adapter to the body side harness.

I didn't install the head unit(done before I purchased)...but it looks very professional. I checked all the wires and pin out, it all looks good. Just nothing to the rear passenger doors. When I fade it to the rear, all sound comes from the sub

That makes it tougher, so I'm guessing you don't know if the rears ever worked. The best place to start is continuity testing from the body side harness near the head unit to the speakers. If the wiring is good test the speakers themselves. (I did this in the past using a modified harness adapter with longer wires and just used a known working speaker connection).

Great to hear!

Correct, those were part of the GMT800 platform as well. I would suspect that if there are any differences in the pickups vs the SUVs it'll be minimal.

Sorry to hear that, Where did it fail for you?

You bet!

Just make sure to check it every few months (I usually check my emergency kit supplies quarterly). Only helpful if it's charged right :D

The one that holds the radio

I've seen several kits say they work for the early GMT800 trucks, but the pictures do not look the same as the kit I got. The first kit I used and installed during the video is this one (At the time they only offered black... now they offer colors too Metra Double Din kit (Black) : amzn.to/3Vuzq5I Metra Double Din Kit (Shale, this is the color of my interior): amzn.to/4a1GtXW Later after my truck was broken into and my head unit stolen, I switched to a different brand as they offered color matched ones. I liked this kit better, because the texture even is a closer match to factory... amzn.to/43sR63j

There are definitely worse connectors than the blue push downs, but they definitely aren't the best. There are definitely ways to improve the install.

There are a lot of ways to overly complicate an install, but also a lot of ways to butcher it too. It is definitely able to be done more cheaply than the kit, and there are definitely more complex ways to do it (the 03-06 Dash swap for example), then of course using the aftermarket dash kit. Each method comes with a set of trade offs and required effort. For me... when I do projects on daily drivers, I like the option that leaves me most easily able to return to stock. In this case I have my stock parts stored above my garage, and if I go back to stock, I swap parts back and sell off the after market kit to recoup some of the costs, then move to whatever I'm doing with my next daily driver.

I'd buy the whole kit. Hacking up the dash so you can't go back to stock isn't my style. If you aren't great with a dremel or rotary wheel or want to be able to return to stock if you sell or decide to go a different direction a full dash kit is the best way. If you don't mind more work, and hare handy enough with a rotary wheel and some other tools you can definitely go the more custom route. There isn't anythingg wrong with either choice, but there are trade offs.

@@DriverJsGarage Thanks for reply. My 01 silverado came to me with a salvage title for under $5K about 4 years ago. It has cost me almost nothing since then (except tires and the AC repair - I live in central NC), so I have no plan to part with it ever. Until I’m too decrepit to do the stuff one usually needs a truck to do. Engine seems strong, I fully expect to have to rebuild the transmission eventually, but IMO so worth it for such a great truck for almost no money every year. Today’s trucks cost more than the first house I bought. Don’t fit in a parking space. I’ll pass on that.

Totally get it. I got my Yukon in trade for an S10 I used to have, when I outgrew the S10 (2 kids), and Same outside of brakes, tires and insurance, it's not been expensive. And I'm sure a new truck wouldn't right away either, but... that comes with that extra monthly payment. don't get me wrong. I'd love to own a TRX or Raptor, but I just don't see it as an expense I want for how often I use it.

Seeing as you didn't give me any more to go on (what step you get to, or what the light is doing I can't say. I would suggest reading the added steps I included in the Pinned comment. as some garage door openers require extra steps. (none of the doors I had access to required the extra steps)

I’m sorry@@DriverJsGarage - I have more info. I have a 2002 gmc Yukon and a chamberlain 1 HP garage door opener. I did the double button reset in the Yukon first, then pressed the working garage door button at the same time as the button I wanted to program in the Yukon. I held both buttons until the on in the Yukon started flashing fast (look like 15-20 seconds. When that didn’t work I did the learn option. Went to the main button pad, selected program, remote, then went to the Yukon and firmly pressed the homelink button for one second. Did that 3 times with no light changes. Did the entire process probably 6 times. Then I moved on the learn button on the opener itself, pressed it, went to the Yukon, pressed the homelink button for 1 second with no flash of light.

Just to make sure, when it started rapid flashing after the initial steps I run through in the video did you release the button and it kept flashing after released? If you have to use the learn button on the garage door opener itself, I recommend a second set of hands, as sometimes the amount of time the learn is active for isn't enough to run to the door hit the learn button and complete the steps. Does the button you programmed rapid flash after just a single press? If it's still rapid flashing it sounds to me like the truck's remote hasn't fully learned the rolling code exchange, and may need you to repeat the steps a few times to get the truck to understand the rolling code used by the door. I checked chamberlain's support page, as HomeLink no longer lists the GMT800 on their support pages (that I could find anyway) Here is a link to Chamberlain's page I thought would be useful to help you troubleshoot more: support.chamberlaingroup.com/s/article/Functions-of-the-Learn-Program-button-on-a-garage-door-opener I found another page in Chamberlain's support that gives a number for HomeLink support too... whether the number works or if they'll support the HomeLink from a GMT800 truck (seeing as it's not on their support page) is questionable, but it's worth a try. They list the number here: support.chamberlaingroup.com/s/article/How-to-Program-HomeLink-to-My-Chamberlain-or-LiftMaster-Garage-Door-Opener Hopefully this helps, you get it figured out. If you get help from Homelink support let me know I'm genuinely curious if they still support units as old as the one's in the GMT800. Let me know how it all goes.

Thanks, in tech stuff I think it's important to be as concise as possible, because I watched too many 30 min videos that could have been 5. Time and place.

Some Garage door openers require an extra step to complete the sync process. The process I used in the video worked for all of the Garage doors I've programmed to so far. If I recall correctly if your Garage Door Opener requires extra steps I believe the light on the homelink unit in the truck will blink rapidly for 2-3 seconds seconds and then turns to a steady on light. If that's the case you need to do the next few steps. Go to the garage door opener receiver / Garage door opener itself and locate the learn or smart button. press and release the smart button. After you press this button, you now have 30 seconds to return to the vehicle. Once back in the vehicle, press and hold the button on the Homelink for 2 seconds. Then, release. If the garage door does not move, repeat steps these extra steps 2-3 times. If that doesn't work, there maybe a deeper issue with your truck/opener.

@@DriverJsGaragethis worked for me thanks

Glad you found it helpful! You're actually spot on with what the USB out is for, you can use it as a power bank as well. While I personally wouldn't recommend using it for a phone charger, as you could run the booster pack too low to help jump start you in an emergency, in a dire situation I could see doing it, but I personally wouldn't use it as a daily power bank, and would just get a separate power bank.

There are a few ways, the easiest especially if you're buying a truck and want to test the functionality before buying it is to get a PPI (pre-purchase inspection). The inspection will include other items and let you know the over-all condition of the rig you're purchasing. This is my recommendation as a professional will look it over and let you know. * Not advice, but things I've done, or had friends do to test their 4WD* In slippery conditions, say a freshly snowy parking lot, a gravel road, you should be able to activate the 4WD and have minimal wheel spin and minimal sliding as you start to move from a stop. I've also known people to put their rig up on jack stands (support very very securely with clear space around the wheels) and putting it in 4WD, then starting it up and putting it in gear.. if it works all 4 wheels should rotate at roughly the same speed. Additionally if you go to a dry parking lot, and do some slow tight turns in a circle, first with 2wd then 4WD you'll feel a difference in how the vehicle drives/turns .

It's a good unit but i've definitely used one of the other one's I owned as my primary jumper pack.

Sure is. Story time! I'm still learning editing tools as I make each video, I'm still getting new equipment for making videos all the time. At the time I made this I no longer had a phone I could plug my old mic for a mobile device into, and didn't have a personal garage (community garage at the time). So in the garage good audio was all but impossible due to the echo, and any tweaking of that just resulted in the echo sounding worse. Some of the video was shot on a camcorder, some on a DSLR, some on a cell phone, leveling that audio was not something I had practice in at the time. But thanks for the comment none the less, and hope other than the varied audio, I hope you liked the video.

Glad it was helpful! Having a case for a jumper pack is a very handy especially one that is designed with your specific pack in mind.

I can't say sadly, it was stolen from my truck about 3 months after the review.

@@DriverJsGarage WOW! Noco in vehicle is must attract to thief! Crazy!.

Stole that (inside a old beat up back pack that I used for emergency supplies, stuff like first aid kit, gloves, etc), my stereo and my kids old diaper bag that was for a change of clothes for them.

@@DriverJsGarage oh thats why backpack in the vehicle is attract to the thief.

Too true. Just not much else good to do with an emergency kit you always want inside though.

Without seeing exactly what you're doing, and knowing more about your rig I can't offer much advice.

Thanks!

I'm not sure why you wouldn't just cut the bracket, as I've not heard of any major issues from doing so, and it's not integral the vehicles safety. So besides keeping it as close to OEM as possible I can't think of any reason I'd say not to just cut it. But. If you don't want to cut the bracket and still want a double din, one of the easy solutions is to buy a head unit that doesn't have a CD/DVD drive built in, and only functions as an android auto/car play unit and a digital media player. You'll still be able to play music using digital services, memory sticks, etc. with the right unit, you'll just not have the ability to play CD's. From there, the options get more complicated. Measure down to the MM and look for a unit just short enough to clear without cutting. Build/Fabricate custom brackets and a custom facia to make the head unit sit slightly forward

The one's I got came with my Dash kit and works for 2000-2001's - amzn.to/3ZkI6vn If you just want brackets and to try and modify your stock dash surround, you can try these brackets (they look right based on the pictures and the years listed - amzn.to/3qZGWse 2003 - 2006 you'll want something like this - amzn.to/3Po4vnU

@@DriverJsGarage thank you this helps out a lot couldn’t have done it without your help thank you again and have a great day!

You're Welcome, glad I could help.

You're correct I did not cover that step, as the door that I was programming for DID NOT require it. Not all Garage door openers require that step.

Unfortunately I didn't get to do any longer term testing on the NOCO, my truck was broken into and the NOCO was one of the things stolen. I've had the Hulkman in one of my cars and used it over winter to help a few other motorists. I actually like the Hulkman better than the NOCO if only because of the display that gives a better indication of how much power I've used. Otherwise I think both of them were solid packs.

amzn.to/3Ohq47S - they're included with the double din kit from Scoche

Glad I could help

common things to start with if you can't get into programming mode: - door open (all the doors need to be closed) - people start the engine and turn off the car, but the key just needs to get to the on position. -The on/off sequence and release of the lock button is done too slowly Those are the procedure things I see done wrong when helped out other friends. From here it becomes technical troubleshooting. Simple Issues: Bad Door close switch/sensor (truck isn't recognizing the door is closed), Bad lock switch (if the lock button doesn't work, the sequence won't work), if you never had a working FOB, the security system might just be an issue (I've never had to troubleshoot that one yet, but can be a cause). If you get into the programming mode, but the fobs don't work, they probably aren't the right model.

found my answer in old reply thank you and great video

Thanks for the kind words, and yeah the brackets came in the install kit.

You're welcome. I'm glad you found it helpful

You'll want to order the dash kit, that has the brackets included. amzn.to/41HKVpE (make sure to pick the color that is closest to your dash)

@@DriverJsGarage Thanks but that link is only for the dash bezel. I was going to replace it with a 03 and up Escalade bezel. I need the link to the stereo brackets

The scosche kit that I linked includes the brackets as well. I originally went about trying it with the 03 bezel, but I used the 03 Bucket/cage for the radio too and decided it wasn't worth my effort. I can check and see if the bezel fits at some point as I'm 99% sure I still have the 03 bezel I bought for that idea

🍻

very nice! They're great rigs, very reliable, and easy as heck to work on if something does go wrong.

I'd like to say I'd be surprised if you had a factory amp and didn't have a pink wire, but I know sometimes corners get cut, repairs get made etc. I searched a bit to see if the Tahoe varied from the Yukon in any paper work I could find and everything I found seemed to be the same for GMT800's. The Amp power wire should be pink. IF the head unit works already you don't need to worry about it because you likely don't have an amp. My experience with GMT800s if you don't have the amp wire connected you get no sound at all. Where I've had other cars, that still had audio, but the volume was just lower. The amp wire for me, wasn't part of the main harness. It was a smaller plug in that was if I recall 4 wires on a separate connector I had to splice.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I'll have some new content coming in 2023!

No, not really the idea. There are plug-in trickle and speed chargers for that. The idea of the booster is just to start the car and get the battery charging off of the alternator

Everyone 100% should have a junper pack of some type in their trunk or emergency kit.

The radio side part of the harness is 2 parts. The part that connects to the head unit itself was provided by the manufacturer of the head unit, and came in the original package. The second part that needed to be wired onto to this, to connect to the trucks harness. Is linked in the description of the video, (I believe in this specific instance the provider was Scosche).

Glad I can help folks. I know it's an easier job, but not everyone knows that and I wanted to make sure I could help folks get some confidence that they can do some of this stuff themselves and save $$. I don't know much about the P-30 frame, and box trucks/motor homes specific setups to help figure it out, but sometimes there is a factory amp, and if you don't wire the head unit into the wire that signals the amp to power up, you won't get audio. Again I don't know much about the P-30, but I hear about this and see it in other vehicles I've worked with. IF you're going for a more custom built motor home, I'd also suggest potentially designing your own full amplified audio system, if that's in your comfort level. There are a few really good car audio channels out there, that focus more on fully custom systems (where I'm more of just a DIY for projects I want). @CarAudioFabrication ( www.youtube.com/@CarAudioFabrication ) is an awesome source for info and does some really neat builds to inspire.

LOL I love when I get this question! I'm from MN, but when the Star's left in the mid 90's I had no team, so a few seasons with no team I was cheering for, so when the Nordiques had moved/become the Avalanche, I adopted them as my new team. In 2001 when the Wild started playing I didn't want to abandon my adopted team I just started wearing whichever team's gear I felt like that day. I love both teams, and am still a huge fan of both. On games where they play each other I wear both team's gear. (Except in the play offs, then I have to wear my Wild gear, because I've seen the Avs win 3 cups already... and the best I've seen out of the wild was a Conference finals in 03. After the Wild dropped the series to the Blues in 2022, I was absolutely thrilled to watch the Avs absolutely dismantle the Blues, and eventually snatch the cup away from the Bolts. TL;DR: from MN, Av's fan after the stars departed and never abandoned them even though I'm also a Wild fan.

@@DriverJsGarage I'm from MN so seeing Avs stuff makes me absolutely cringe due to our playoff history and one dude in particular, Roy 😡😡😡. Hoping for a playoff run this year!

I totally get it, I get a hard time from all of my other buddies here in MN about it regularly and have for a long time. I really hope the Wild can put together a good run at the Cup. The boys have really found themselves with The Thrill being out, and I hope when he comes back that it just makes the team all the stronger, and while I'd really like to see the Avs repeat.... I want the Wild to get their first cup a lot more. Feel free to say hi if you ever see me out and about at games or out driving around the State of Hockey!