You are Right-On about that...! When You gently get to the target depth and all is sized and polished ( Oh yeah, they never talk about "not polishing below the glue line anywhere", this is where You don't want it slippery, the adhesive grips this area ) OK, back to Your subject... File the top of the nut to set the wound strings 1/2 to 2/3 depth, then file down the treble strings to sit 100% in the slot, hit it with 400 600 1,000 and finish with 3,000. There are a couple other critical procedural points that need to be learned also, that never get shown!!!

Depends on what you mean by "sweeten." In your elaboration, it sounds like you want brighter high ends. But many people want that "buttery" tone associated with the Les Paul neck pickup and some recording by Les himself. If you want brighter tone, meaning more treble, you could shift an RC circuit or two to roll over at a higher frequency, meaning a lower value capacitor. Although replacing the electrolytics in the power supply wouldn't be a bad idea, for your purposes I'd start with the main and drive tone circuits: R8/C3 & R32/C21 & C22. You can check sensitivity to each cap by solder tacking a similar value in parallel, which will increase capacitance, and if that produces a big effect, remove the original and replace it with a lower value. You should use similar voltage ratings and type, although some folks decades ago insisted on "orange drops." Polystyrene replacements might deliver the brighter tone you're looking for. Ideally, you could play around with a bunch of dielectric material (the stuff between plates of a cap) to see which has the characteristics you're looking for. By that I mean buy a few different types, swap them in one-at-a-time and decide which you like best (if there's any noticeable difference at all). Also: you may actually get the tone you're looking for by changing the caps associated with the bass tone controls (C4 & C23). Let us know what works! (And be careful in there! Use safe practices when you're working on anything that plugs into line current!)

Thankyou Greg. If polystyrene are those old medium dark blue ones with the white lettering I used to see in old amps; those, and the paper caps used to sound good. I reckon the size of those components also create a moody playspace for electricity as well. Thankyou for pointing out which specific circuit card correspondence to locate the "possible" targets to beautify the tone. The treble seems a bit crisp; although I do like that there is plenty to spare. I suppose I was thinking more harmonic reactiveness: perhaps a little electrical "sag", and "bloom".

Did you the time between 1980 and 2021 is the same as 1980 to 1939. Yep, let you have a moment for that…

Take bass to professional ,and tell them to replace the nut with real bone. Don't do it yourself unless you are a pro who knows what you are doing. The nut is one of the most important things on a bass. Great care must be taken to ensure it's cut correctly.

I have a Memphis bass and it is a total Fender copy p bass made in Japan, or Korea between the years of 1977- 1981 not sure....

My theory is one can remove more with wick. (It was good enough for NASA spec!)

I just replaced the normal channel volume pot in a 112 plus . old / new were 43.7k / 46.6k . Within the normal + -- 10%. . The 15A does not mean amps .