thank you

This is a very basic answer 😉: A serger will stitch a seam, and at the same time, wrap the raw edges with thread so they don't unravel. You don't see any stitches on the outside. And a coverstitch will sew fabric down, as in a hem, leaving two or three rows of stitching on the outside of the garment. I've had a serger for years and I use it a lot. I bought a coverstitch last year and I rarely use it. I know folks who use their coverstitch all the time. I suppose I haven't made it a habit yet. It's a little trickier to get right. If you get a coverstich I can recommend 2 good resources for using it. First is the KZbin channel "The Last Stitch" and Second is the book "The Coverstitch Technique Manual" by Julia Hincks. I have a couple coverstitch book and find this one to be the most helpful.

@@TheDailySew thank you 😊

Great! I'm hoping it is. Thanks for watching.

Oh, yes! I love hearing this. Thank you. It's great that you can keep using something you have and that coat sounds 🤩. I bet it's really well made and the wool is lovely. I'm so happy you get to wear it again.

Thank you so much! I'm glad the video is helpful and that it was clear to understand - that's always my goal, so good to know I got it ;-)

Thank you for watching the video. I'm glad it could help

Thank you! And thanks for watching

Thank You!!

Thank you for watching. I’m glad it was a help. When I was doing a bit of research for the video I couldn’t believe how interesting the history of needles and sewing machines became 🤓

You got this! And thanks for watching the video 😉

Thank you! That’s really nice to hear. And I’m glad you liked the video.

Yes, thank you for watching. I’m glad the video was helpful. But don’t tell anyone you know how to hem pants 😉 or do and charge them. 😊

Thank you. I’m glad it was helpful.

Hey, sorry for delay. A hurricane took out our power, cell coverage, and water. Still without all of those at home but places in town have cell coverage. Yay! I’m glad you like the video. Hopefully your back pack will last a very long time and it won’t need these repairs. But just in case here they are 😊

Thank you - "straight to the point"😆😉

@@TheDailySew I subscribed, too; I genuinely like the structure of your video and explanations. I watched many today. Thanks.

@@MMotagaly oh, thank you very much.

I would apply a drop to the bobbin hook and the shaft that lifts the needle up and down. The bobbin hook spins inside another ring and those two metal parts shouldn't be rubbing against each other without lubricant. Where the needle shaft moves in and out of the upper part of the machine also needs lubricant to move smoothly. Great question

I'm glad to jog your memory. You'll probably start sewing and it will all come flooding back to you ;-) I would say the biggest change in 30 years are; The fabric and patterns are Way more expensive. And there are so many new pattern companies. With the independent companies keep in mind they all draft for a different fit model. No standardized sizing. No standardized height either. When you see a pattern you like, look for it on Instagram to see how it looks on various people and what they say about it. Welcome back!

Thank you. I'm so glad the video is helpful

Please explain how you would go about this alteration. We all want to learn the best way

Thank you. I agree with you, it was the help I found for how to fix my vacuum that inspired me to start this channel.

Thank you very much. I'm glad it's helpful.

I tend to use straight pins a lot to mark things, especially buttonholes, on my fabric. My rule is always, "Where the pin goes in, is what I'm marking." so no matter where on the fabric the pin exits, it's the place that it enters the fabric that is my mark. I put the pin straight through the pattern into the cloth and leave it sticking straight up. Then I carefully lift the pattern up to that pin, and stick a second pin into where the first pin enters the fabric. The second pin is secured in the fabric and the first pin goes back in the pin holder. That's my preferred way but I'll use a chalk pencil too. I like the Clover brand chalk pencils. However, I've learned the hard way to test my marking tool on a scrap of the same fabric first. If you forget to test ( I do that too) just be sure to avoid ironing over your marks before you can remove your marks. The heat can set some chalks and inks.

Thanks for the reply. I get frustrated with my markings, seem they don't line up or they rub off. I just cut out a blouse this AM. I haven't marked it yet, but I will be trying out your suggestions tomorrow. Thanks again!

@@donnaricks1267 sometimes (often) I forget to mark my pattern piece until I go to sew it. For those little circle marks (usually marking a spot where you need to stop stitching) I'll just measure where they are (ie. 5/8" in from the end), skip making the mark, and just stop stitching that amount away or in from the edge. Marks are definitely important. Do pay attention to them, but there is a little wiggle room to adapt them to your style ;-).

I'm really glad you are enjoying sewing because my selfish mission is to get everyone sewing, and then fabric stores will come back ;-) The Singer you bought is pretty good though and buying it was worth not spending $500 on a really good machine and then realizing you don't enjoy sewing. (bright side, right?) Maybe you don't have to wait until it dies to replace it. Perhaps you could sell it? I would think other folks want to try sewing without investing too much in case they don't really like it.

@@TheDailySew Thank you very much. Fabric stores are so much fun to visit!!! I found your channel today and I am looking forward to checking other videos. I know that I have much to learn but it does look like a lot of fun and you explain things in a way that is easy to understand. Thanks again and all the best.

@@raindrops_falling Thank you!

thank you

thanks. My number one tip for making the hem, any hem, invisible is to not pull your stitches tight. We all seem to pull the thread tighter than it needs to be thinking it makes the stitch stronger. It just makes it tight ;-) The goal is to have the thread laying on the surface. Not digging in and not loose. So, the bottom edge is not even, it curves down in the back I'm guessing? First, decide whether to keep the curve or make it an even hem. It's your choice if they are your pants ;-). To keep the curve you measure up the same distance from the bottom all the way around, pin it and sew it. To get rid of the curve you could measure at the center front up and draw a line out toward the sides from that point and copy that line to the back. The pants in the video taper making the hem narrower than the leg circumference that I sew it to so I have to let out the side seam a bit to spread the hem and let it lay flat. Do you have the opposite? Is that what you mean by overlapping? The hem is wider than the pant leg where you want to attach it? If that's the case you, can ease the hem in place. That's when you take that extra 1/2" of fabric and try to distribute it evenly over a large area. Example: 1/2" is spread over 4". A tuck would be taking that extra length and folding it flat so the 1/2" is spread over 1/4" (it's simply folded and sewn down flat). Let me try to explain how to ease. You're dividing the extra length over an area. I'll place a pin a couple inches away to the right and left from where the fabric is buckling (too much). That defines the 1 large area. (And those outer pins are random and can be moved later if needed) Then pin it down flat in the center of those pins dividing the extra fabric evenly between the pin. (if it was 1/2" now it's 1/4" to the right and to the left of the center pin) That makes 2 sections. Then divide each of those sections with a pin and so forth. You'll see the extra fabric start spreading evenly and subtly. Once it looks smooth, sew it down . I hope this helped and if I misunderstood please write back

I encourage you to try it at least once. Then you can decide on a project-by-project basis if it's easier to just grab a needle and a spool of thread (because sometimes hand sewing is easier ;-)

ouch! That hurts just reading that.

Ha! I did the same thing years ago and I have since never forgotten to check if I can raise my arms, move, and sit ;-)

Thank you. I would really try to have the same amount of hem as the original dress had. The wider the hem the more weight at the bottom which can help with the drape or the way the dress hangs on the body. Without seeing the dress I don't know if that is important for the dress' style. So, for example, if the current dress has a 1" wide hem on the bottom, try to make a 1" wide hem when you shorten it. If it has a 1/2" hem, then make a 1/2" hem when you shorten it.

So, I think this is a debatable "rule". I pin things as they are worn; right side out But, you will get similar if not identical results pinning either way (unless you are very asymmetrical). You get to choose how you want to pin it because it's DIY ;-) Note: Some comments said it would save a step pinning it inside out but you still have to measure where the pins were placed and take them out to draw in the stitch line so just decide on personal preference.

I had to laugh because that is exactly what I would have done. But you got that button back on and now you'll never have to, but you can if you want to, pay someone else to sew a button. Yay!!

This sounds like a perfect report card to me. Thank you very much.

You can always test your chalk on a scrap of fabric but I assume all chalk will stain the fabric if ironed😬. It happened to me once so now I don't trust ironing over any marks that I need to come off.

I love hearing this. Thank you for letting me know.

thank you - that's my goal

I'm happy the video is helpful.

Thanks for watching. I hope you find the machine blind stitch just as helpful as I did

😁 Thank you.

A walking foot helps a LOT and may reduce all puckering so if you have one you should use it. The double needle stitch on ready-to-wear is typically sewn on a cover stitch machine. It's a special machine that overcasts the edge and stitches it down. They now make domestic cover stitch machines so if you sew a lot, and especially if you sew knits, you might want to get one.

@@TheDailySew After going down the sewing rabbit hole for 3 hours, I think I’m gonna try the twin needle with a wooly nylon bobbin method! Seems like it can come close to replicating a coverstitch. I do have a walking foot so I’ll use that!

@@insidethecourt oh, that's interesting to use wooly nylon in the bobbin. Will you wind the bobbin by hand or can you wind it on the machine like al purpose thread? Please report back on your results. I'm very curious.

@@TheDailySew I hadn’t thought of that! Apparently the recommendation is to wind slowly on the machine while guiding by hand so it’s not too tight or loose. I’ll let you know how it goes once I get around to this, hopefully in a few weeks.

Thanks for watching the video

Thank you. I try not to blather on too much (I have been guilty of it though)

🥳🥳 YAY! That's exciting for me to hear, thank you

That is great! I'm so glad you were able to get the fit you wanted. It would be super nice if everything just fitted from the get-go. One day...maybe

Yes, it would help a lot.

Thank you for watching the video!

Yes, 😀That's one of my favorite workarounds since topstitch thread only comes in limited colors.