Dom would have been proud.

96-98 Camaro/Firebird 3800 intake... version before they went to drive by wire for the 3800 on fbody.

Build lists, not really... Whipple car, lots of custom one offs... heads, intercooler, support brackets, throttle body, ect ect... plus 15 years? of building... Turbo turd... in that state... Stock block ZZP stage 5 cam ZZP T67 turbo ZZP Plogs Custom cross over / downpipe 95# injectors Yocal shop ported heads 105# ( should have been like 130# springs) Fbody intake Then everything one could do basically to the transmission... GMR everything and what not.

@@jdredd34 the wipple uses the Aussie yella Terra intercooler right? I seen another car with that build. looked just like yours but different color car

@@drewbauske807 As a base, but its been hacked to hell ... 3 layers now, 3" inch custom core and junk to it. And it still isn't enough really... temps out of it at 20+ PSI is over 300 degrees.

@@jdredd34 how much hp is the wipple grand Prix has it ever ran a pass and did prj performance build it?

@drewbauske807 it made like 560who or something near that years back. With less boost and bad 3rd gear on the dyno pull. 11.23@118 I think is best time. Major belt slip problems. I tried to take to track last year and broke brand new $110 belt first pass... then it blew vac lines after I put old belt in. just breaks crap left and right when do any WOT runs.

Off the 97/98 v6 3800 Firebird / Camaro ...

3.25" Adapter from eBay www.ebay.com/itm/155055016587 3.25" inlet cone filter www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3BR9QPX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Metal shield www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJYJ4S4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I'll shake you, you little rascal ! GET OVER HERE!

@@jdredd34 Ay Caramba!

Its been a year since i last touch it before i tossed it all in trash due to belt breaking issues. There is a large plastic nut that screws onto the end of the motor. You just bust the loose and finally off... and the motor should just sorta slip out. If its spinning the motor, its probably just rotted on there and just need to grasp the motor with hand and keep it still. Unless something changed over time in the desing. But for me, it was simply, remove the large plastic nut, and it came right out.

Yah virtually all custom now. the OLD setup was ZZP plogs, and a Z7 knock off cross over and downpipe that did not fit well at all... so we had to hack it all up to work. Current setup, all from scratch.

@jdredd34 Just ordered material for mine. Not a fan of the aftermarket I've seen.

@@specmodified If you got the skills, will end up with better results. If you do stuff like remove ABS, smaller brake booster or swap to hydroboost setup... fit in a 3.5" downpipe that the kits only go to 3"

@@jdredd34 Do you remember what boost pump you used?

@@specmodified I forget exactly as its been a few years now, but it was from a mid 2000's GMC van.

@jplperformance9073 Hopefully soon... took PAC ~6 months for new valve springs for the turbo turd... assembly in progress now... again... and hopefully be started up shortly.

@jplperformance9073 until then... this is my new daily... Old Mirage died... then the Yukon Denali died few weeks back.m so picked up A brand new 2024 Kia jelly bean. Like it alot actually.

In the end I was getting close to entering 1.4x range... i think best was 1.51 M&H slicks... at ~10psi. Cable mod, to lock the rear end suspension up. So no compression on launch / weight transfer. Tune timing table to where at staging, reduce timing... make it so virtually 0-1 degrees of timing. Can build boost and launch at 10 psi or more.. i was around 10psi of boost... Hold on to gas... heavy on the brakes... keep boost up and when light goes green just go WOT. No feathering or anything. And if got timing table right, time shoots back to normal a few feet out of rolling. An easier way is to use the IAT Temp/spark table. Set up a momentary switch you keep pressed. Inline with IAT sensor. Cuts IAT signal. Use that table to drop the timing down to nothing in the -39* column i think it is ? and once you launch let go of button, and IAT sensor works again, and timing goes back to normal.

Very informative! Thank you.

Not that I know of, but i've been out of the Neato loop for a few years now. I ran into a few of these and all ended up in the trash.

More than I had liked..... 1) AC System removed ( didn't work ) 2) Bumper supports 3) Removed metal for rear speaker deck 4) Removed metal from underside of trunk lid 5) Removed metal from corners of rear interior ( behind interior panels for rear passengers ) 6) Removed air bags 7) Removed HUD ( wish had not ) 8) Single exhaust 9) Sun roof gutted... just held in with spacers and silicone. 10) Alot of interior is missing, no seats. 11) Removed stereo / speakers 12) Removed window wiper motor/wipers ( dumb ) 13) Fuel Cell setup 15) No center console. Probably missing a few things... car was down to just over 3100 pounds before cage went in. Power windows and heat still work.

Probably a few things... 1) the foam rollers probably added extra floatyness to it. They replaced them with flapper wheels. 2) Any kind of dirt trapped in there, leaves, pine needles, ect... dirty screens in baskets... threw it off.. really had to make sure it was nice and clean at all times. Either way, the local dump owns it now. After breaking belts all the time and finally ran out of them, i just chucked it away. Chinese junk in the end. Get what ya pay for.....

@collingill8785 was a one off custom kind of deal that Paul Jerkatis made for it many years ago.

Yah. It broke the 3rd belt constantly. Paxcess sent me a "new" belt that lasted a pretty long time. Better than what was included originally and what is sold normally... but a crummy design and will break eventually. I rebuilt this bot a number of times.... but finally trashed it.

Bearing on the motor shaft had rusted up badly. And the motors gear reduction section had started to gum up inside and get super stiff. if look closely, can see the 3rd belt, drive belt, is was still there. I eventually rebuilt this thing a number of times, including my own controller board inside to run it .

hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n136/jdredd87/CarDoom/20141221_140150_zpse35439d9.jpg vac pump engages around 1psi or something like that. Pulls a vacuum from the catch can. Using the Racetronix Crankcase E-Vac Pump Harness. Only tricks was to remove internal filter from the pump and up the fuse size. To small of a fuse for such a long draw sometimes.

Thank you!

If you look at ~5 second mark, you can see it. Passenger side. Look between the radiator cap and throttle body. Can see the black canister with 3 ports on it and electric vac pump.

GM Hydroboost from an early 2000s van

@jdredd34 just bolted up or made bracket to hold it?

I lost the "last" version of the code. Didn't commit it apparently.. So last version is up on github... the lost version had some fixes but wasn't much better than whats there now... but can look at @ github.com/jdredd87/TeensyUVSCAN i lost interest like with most things when life gets stupid. I had moved to a teensy 4.1 but i think for most part can get some ideas maybe from the code i had ?

It has been a long time.... there might have been some spacers to raise it up a little that I can't remember.... but the major trick was to cut the thermostat housing and turn it to change the angle it came out at, and reweld it. Looking at this picture you can see the weld. @ photobucket.com/u/jdredd87/a/0ad5d80a-9b93-47c8-95d5-e51da4eace4e/p/ec811b93-9a78-4d93-a088-bc709579fb7c

yes, a heavily built 4t65e

@jdredd34 cool! There is hope for me then LOL I didn't want to go with an 4t80 e for what I'm trying to do

Never had one burn out. It is just a 24 volt supply... amps wise not 100% sure. if you live in the USA.... I may have a spare power supply. If so, just paypal me shipping and can have it. If I find it here soon I'll let ya know.

Hi my power supple fell in my pool and I smell the burning. Unit isn’t working do u have any access to fix. I’m in ny

Down where the AC Compressor use to be.

@@jdredd34 damn that’s a perfect 👍 AC delete

Wish was sleeping. Problem was trying to use the PCM tuning as A way to build boost at the line. Basically between 2000-3000 rpm ( somewhere around that ) it would drop the timing to 0 or 1* of timing. This way could build boost to ~10psi at the line. But had to do it kinda slowly and stand on the brakes as hard as possible, and try to watch boost gauge and RPM gauge. As if you took off to low of RPM, it would bog. If to high of RPM, would blow tires off. Because to low would cause a second or two of no timing while rolling out, while to high of RPM, would break the lights and blow tires off as it would raise timing back and car would start to pull away. New setup, is momentary / switch button activated and trans brake. Just need the entire new car setup to stay together long enough to actually track it....

I have a GoTek Floppy Emulator on the left with flash floppy firmware flashed onto it.. The right side is a USB port, via the CH375 ISA>USB cards out there. Can solder on header pins to the card. Reaching around to the back for USB port was such A pain. I worked with A friend to make these 3D files to print your own new bezels for them! www.thingiverse.com/thing:6219572 www.thingiverse.com/thing:6221068

When it is broke... not much of an issue. Cheap China garbage. Rebuilt and replaced lots of the guts with my own parts to make it half way decent.

Virtually everything that can be done. GMR racing parts such as 2.93 1" chain and GMR Torsen Differential. And a bit of custom parts.

Not sure if I can get OBS running on this thing :)

@@jdredd34 Might have to do a pass-thru on video capture and use new computer with OBS ... stripped down OBS on an old 8086 would be hilarous

Thanks for giving me this sweet system! Now I am slowly , as the cool kids say , Pimping it out!

Actually nothing to crazy. Custom coil overs we made for the fronts. Chinese factory replacements for the rear. Uses the "Cable mod" to lock rear end up in place when it would be at the track. Old wbody store lateral arms. I Think, Dorman box tube trailing arms. ZZP front control arms. Will eventually swapping out the sway bars but not necessarily right now.

@@jdredd34 Any issues with axle shsfts/CV joints?

@@dougzack4565 On the old setup, did ~100 passes in the 10.x range... and few 1.5x 60 foots. Using 200k mile factory axles. Just rebuilt them with new grease and boots is all.

@@jdredd34 Awesome! GM did something right.