Pretty cool idea! So does this basically cancel out the blow by? Also how does this work on very short drains(1ft vs 20ft) Maybe it takes the path of least resistance sometimes? Sometimes not the negative pressure side?

Interesting design. I've never seen this method used before. Tbh it'd be too complicated for my apprentice to learn.

Purchased: August 2023 - still works GREAT!I kzbin.infoUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install. This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment. I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!

i am upstairs condo with split unit up flow no p trap. My ac blew fuses 8 times in 6 weeks. HVAC company said I have to run new electricity from furnace upstairs to ac downstairs on ground. so they would have to run new line between floor 2 (me) and floor 1 causing major construction. SO I looked KZbin (you) and found that condensate could cause fuse to blow so went down and found condensate downstairs next to neighbors front door.....well someone had filled little circle cut out of concrete to allow condensate to drain to dirt and someone or "the elements" had covered the circle cut out of the concrete with dirt high enough to cover the PVC coming out of the wall very tiny clearance anyhow they also or "the elements" had stuffed a rock same diameter as PVC so that there was no dripping going on. I think that is why I am blowing fuses? not sure yet but I am hopeful. I spoke to neighbor downstairs and asked if he seen anyone clog the pipe and he assured me not him and didn't see anyone...HOWEVER he did complain about the smell from the puddle that "used" to be there. Anyhow how can i flush the line without the p trap to maybe help with the smell he is saying is there? any ideas. I did go down and pour some bleach in the dirt to maybe help, maybe I can do that or if you have any ideas how to CLEAN the line without the p trap. His unit was also vacant for 3 years so maybe it is his unit with the smell. any ideas would be appreciated.

This tech? doesn’t have a thorough grasp of how condensate drains function, the coil is a blow through, to be accurate the classification of the drain would be “ a positive pressure “ type. Also he refers to what is commonly called geysering, that won’t happen on a positive pressure system, only over flow from an obstruction in the drain. Additionally the drain doesn’t “suck the condensate through, it will allow the positive pressure to push the condensate through the seal. A trap however is not required for positive pressure systems but is considered good practice as a matter of routine, the primary reason is if the termination location of the drain is outside the conditioned space it prevents wasting however much conditioned air that would flow through the drain line. Just some of the finer details. Local 290 Journeyman

This is very true that you are breathing dangerous condensate vapors which cause immense amount of health problems

As a commercial HVAC tech I find it a total crime that no company I have ever worked for has ever put even the slightest thought into the condensate system of units they install, because the common wisdom is "meh use a P trap." Years later I will work on these same units and see the blower compartment contaminated with mildew and mold growth as a consequence of condensate failing to drain properly, whether or not that trap was primed with water. So many easily preventable issues caused by the lack of care or concern for the longevity of the equipment installed. This product, for the low cost of losing an insignificant amount of air flow off the blower, provides mildew and mold protection for the blower that should be industry standard among all commercial grade units, yet isn't for pure and simple greed. People in this industry are smart enough to know about the water-source P trap failures described in this video, yet they allow these conditions to continue because it makes them more money through unnecessary service, early unit replacements, and being able to offer a lower priced bid so as to more easily secure the job.

what would happen if a line was going from 2% grade to level? would the 2% slope still push the water through? or would it just sit there?

This video was so informative I forgot that it was an advertisement

Sweet! Thanks. I have a small 1.5 Ton in florida and it molds regularly. It also has a float shutoff which is required, but when it plugs, requires a service call to Nitrogen blow it out (no couplings). These small air handlers have the same problem. I also like the demo of pulling gas into the furnace. That was interesting. We had a unit above us so restricted on intake it was gurgling in my unit, pulling air thru the condensation line and from my washer p trap. Amazing. Thanks

I found out that if your A-coil is down stream of the fan it is under pressure and you do NOT need a trap. If your A-coil is before the fan it is under a vacuum and you DO need a trap. In most home units are under pressure, NO trap needed. So look at your furnace, you probably do NOT need a trap. Don't waste your money and time if you don't need it.

Where can one find more information about how the CostGard operates? A video like this one explaining it with diagrams would be handy.

Like all the other costguard videos, what's needed is a thorough, complete DIAGRAM schematic of how this works. A few finger-points isn't good enough.

Interesting product but need a schematic of how this works (too sketchy; and 50s-style marketing).

We install heat pumps all the time and those air handlers have the drain before the blower motor which means they're under negative pressure not positive like your ac .will this new trap work the same? And the traditional trap creates a seal, to stop the air from flowing through, and allow the water to leave the pan, otherwise water will not leave the pan which will also activate the safety switch,.where is the seal on this new p-trap? Also will it work under negative pressure? Also shouldn't that breather have a straight piece that's above the drain pan? So it doesn't leak from there ? In case something goes wrong and the drain gets clogged ?

Awsome¿¿¿this boy know's what he's talking adout!!!.

Interesting product. Do you have residential installers in the Dallas area? I just realized there is not a P trap on my system in my home.

Is this system also valid in fan coil drainage installation?

How to calculate U-Loop trap length for particular Negative blower pre. Is there any calculation for the same ??

PVC, 90'S, T's and you got it

I get how it works..... but why won't it freeze if the conditions are right? Is it because when it's properly capped, the water flow "out" is a constant, moving flow of water?

Very well done. Great video!

When blower motor set to high speed all the water in the trap will be suck into the unit and water never came out (negative pressure inside of the trap). This is a very stupid design. I have seen a lot issues on commercial units. Why don't put the fan behind the coil to blow the air through the coil? This way water will be blown out.

you didn't show how to connect it.Please tell me how?

Very cool. Thanks for the upload.

where can I buy?

Sounds like a good idea. I have never seen advertising of this product, at least in Canada.

SUMMARY OF TRAP RELATED CODES (Prohibit Condensate Traps) International Mechanical and Plumbing Codes Mechanical Code Section 307.2.4 Traps. Condensate drains shall be trapped as required by the equipment or appliance manufacturer. Plumbing Code Section 314.2.4 Traps. Condensate drains shall be trapped as required by the equipment or appliance manufacturer. Other sections of the International Plumbing Code actually prohibit traps on air conditioning drain systems: Section 1002.4 Trap Seals. . . . Where a trap seal is subject to loss by evaporation [an HVAC trap is], a trap seal primer valve shall be installed. Section 1002.3 Prohibited Traps. The following types of traps are prohibited: 1. Traps that depend on moving parts to maintain the seal. A primer valve has a moving part; thus, prohibiting traps on HVAC drain systems. Uniform Mechanical and Plumbing Codes These codes offer no technical guidance and make no specific reference to trapped HVAC condensate drain systems, only to trapped plumbing fixtures. Instead, the Uniform Plumbing Code encourages consideration of improved alternative methods (such as the CostGard™ Condensate Drain Seal). What each section states is summarized below: Mechanical Code Section 101.2 Purpose. . . . The purpose of this code is not to create or otherwise establish or designate a particular class or group of persons who will or should be especially protected or benefited by terms of this code. Plumbing Code Section 301.2 Alternate Materials and Methods of Construction Equivalency. Nothing in this code is intended to prevent the use of systems, methods, or devices of equivalent or superior quality, strength, fire resistance, effectiveness, durability, and safety over those prescribed by this code. Section 1003.1 General Requirements. Each trap, except for traps within an interceptor or similar device shall be self-cleaning. Condensate traps are not self-cleaning, instead they are prone to frequent flow blockage and fail to meet that section of the code. In fact, Sections 301.2 & 1003.1 can be interpreted as requiring the CostGard™ Condensate Drain Seal.

Does it meet code for installations on residential units?