Not sure what the wiring is on a indicator light set up versus gauges, but I can tell you the tachometer wire comes from the HEI distributor through a suppressor mounted on the firewall then through the firewall to the gauge cluster. In short, you could pick up this output from your distributor and feed your tachometer in the gauge cluster.

The LED replacements work for the 168, 194 and others in this package type. Here’s a link to deal on Amazon for the 5050 chipset that should work perfectly for our cars.. www.amazon.com/Alopee-White-Interior-Lights-Courtesy/dp/B0182FMWKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?crid=42R585LRHR2S&keywords=194+led+bulb&qid=1690345651&sprefix=%2Caps%2C328&sr=8-17

The Original 86 Speedo IS an 85MPH speedo.... I replaced my 85MPH Speedo with an 87 which is the 120MPH (I call it a 120MPH, as others do, because the 120 MPH line exists beyond the 115MPH indication) but back to my point, because this is what it should have been in 1986 IMO.

If I were you, I wouldn’t mess with trying to power it up outside of the car like I did for demonstration purposes. Just position the shell back on to the vehicle connection. If you want to test it’s easy enough to pop on and off as you’re testing the connections of the lamps

Additionally, It’s a little tricky, but you can even replace them without removing that bezel. I’ve done it, but you risk them falling down. While I removed for demonstration purposes I also removed the bezel to clean the contacts on each side.

Mikes Monte’s will have them

1st Apologize, but I don’t see what you are seeing. The only thing that I could see that maybe you thought was an addition is the resistor on the opposite side that was already there when I started this project. If so, that was the way it was when I took it apart. Secondly, I reviewed my post and see that I did call it a 2K resistor at one point in time although all other, including when, pointing to it on the schematic, I correctly called it the right value which is 200 K. So I do apologize for confusing you, but it is a 200 K resistor, and only one resistor that I am cutting out of the circuit by cutting the pins on the I C, and then replacing by soldering a new 200k resistor across those points on the PCB.

Thank you for the kind words. My advice to you is to be patient as the work represented in this short video represents years of work to achieve exactly what I wanted. And it’s still not finished! 😢

Even though it’s less resistance than the expected 200 K it’s still significantly lower than what it should be and as such would give you an inaccurate reading. Just make sure you’re measuring it with the pins Cut as to isolate it as if are measuring it still soldered in the circuit it will not give you an accurate reading.

Thanks… did the repair and will see when I get it put back together. Doing a few other things so it may be a while. Great video very helpful.

Please refer to this video for access to and replacement. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3-kiYSQgZeMgpY. If you are swapping from an 87 to an 86 and are NOT changing tires or transmission then no calibration is necessary. For me, since I did both, it was a matter of selecting a Speedo drive gear ( installed in transmission tail housing and driven off of output shaft). I hope this helps.

Not off the top of my head. I simply used a DVM with the headlights on to determine the 12v+ output pin on car side. Translated this to bezel and soldered leads to power with my DC power supply. What I would suggest you do would be to leave the sub bezel plugged in to your car as you can still access the lamps and test one by one after replacing. I hope this helps.

Apologies for the late reply, but I have moved and that has consumed a great deal of my time in addition to work. Not sure exactly what’s causing your issue, but guessing the MSD ignition may be causing your issue? Where are you picking up the tach output from? Has it changed from the original output since you’ve added MSD ignition? Do you still have and are using the original suppressor on the firewall?

Thanks.. I Do not know the name but know the function. As you already indicated It prevents bleeding of light into other indicator/lens segments of the front panel. Check with Mike’s Montes if he doesn’t have it no one will other than a junkyard. You could easily make one out of some thin sheet plastic or even cardboard and thin single sided adhesive foam to form a tight light seal on the substrate you decide to use.

@@mondottimondotti7318 I think they call it a light defuser

Thanks. Would certainly not hurt but would be overkill for your application in my opinion. In my case with fresh rotating assembly it was a no brainer. Would certainly do for a cam swap.

Short answer is yes. Long answer is it depends on your LS ECM. When I did this video I had what is known as a 24x crankshaft reluctor wheel and gen III ECM. Since our cars have a v-8 Tach I programmed the ECM resolution to match with tuning software is 3/3 for 24x with pull-up circuit (do search on HP tuners Tach resolution ). Now I have a 58x or gen IV ECM and resolution is 7/7. But will share later in a different post issues I encountered as I am currently working on this.

Thanks! The custom motor mounts are John Bzdels which coupled with the fact that, at that time, there was no stainless headers for my application was the reason I went full custom for the headers and tied into Holleys 3” stainless header back exhaust. Today, Holley has a full solution: Motor mounts, Stainless headers, Only consideration would be that their Header is not made to clear a column shift like mine. The rest of the components are off the shelf stuff with some customization for cold air intake creation and mounting/placement considerations for the rest.

Hi. These links expire extremely fast. What you should do is go to Amazon and type 194 led bulb. Then they have filters for specific vehicle applications. I typed in my year SS and got the following below.. But don’t expect it to last… www.amazon.com/Marsauto-Replacement-Courtesy-License-Lights/dp/B079L3WBDN/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=V0RN8FP36D9F&keywords=led+94+bulb&qid=1645033886&sprefix=led+94%2Caps%2C254&sr=1-5&vehicle=1986-47-470-492--7-8-7-1438-646-1-2-1775--1&vehicleName=1986+Chevrolet+Monte+Carlo

Here is another but again please understand that these links expire quickly so as suggested use the search engine in Amazon along with the application filter for your car as I did. This link is for the 194 LED bulb for my 1986 Monte Carlo SS that also has the sockets included. Just for clarity the sockets are not needed but some of them may be brittle and break due to the heat exposure overtime so nice to have if you need them but was not necessary for my application. www.amazon.com/10Pack-Instrument-Cluster-Dashboard-Automotive/dp/B099RPJHK9/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=38WWNREO6TCMJ&keywords=led+94+bulb+socket&qid=1645917164&sprefix=led+94+bulb+socket%2Caps%2C269&sr=8-4

@@mondottimondotti7318 man, I really appreciate the updated links! just ordered these from your link.

The original incandescent lights in general produced too much heat. This replacement will not reduce this.

Not sure what your issue is as it’s extremely straight forward.

Yes they do. It just appears this way due to the way the indirect or reflective lighting works in this application..

Thank you for the kind words. Greatly appreciated.

We’re all waiting for your solution

Thanks for asking and Unfortunately no. The way the potentiometer is structured for incandescent lights is why this is happening. I can still dim it but not in as linear of a fashion as the incandescent bulbs.

To be clear I did purchase a brand new dimmer and it made no difference so do not waste your money trying.

Yeah I noticed when I put them in thanks

Too Much!! LOL...Seriously though, If you catch and pause the very last caption in my build compilation you will get an indication of the material costs. My labor is another topic. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYirqZamfd99bqc

SW suburbs... It was extremely expensive (see message to Mike W. with link) Some people just want to go extremely fast in a straight line, others want moderate power, handling and driveability. I wanted it ALL!!! Packaged in a stock looking Monte SS.. Essentially a wolf in sheeps clothing.Took a ton of planning and time/money to complete but It's a beautiful thing as this is how I envisioned the car rolling off the showroom floor today.

Agreed. The sound of them were great, just wished they were made to handle higher horsepower.

AFX tall spindles that have C7 corvette hubs. I used C5 calipers with same application upgraded drilled and slotted rotors.

Apologies as I Just noticed that you asked “which should I go with?” The path I went with was extremely expensive as it accomplished a couple goals. 1. It corrected the horrible camber curve. 2. Since they’re aluminum you have less unsprung weight. 3. As I mentioned previously it has provisions for 13 inch Corvette rotors and hardware to readily adapt C-5 calipers. In short there are cheaper methods to have big brakes with your set up but apologies as I have not researched them for the stock spindle or other lower cost spindles.

Perfect example of when something is posted on the net that it never goes away as someone somewhere has most likely downloaded a personal copy. 😎

Yeah, WTF That's my video!!!🤣

Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate it.

Thank you for the kind words, I greatly appreciate it. The intention was to build a pro touring Monte Carlo SS with Straightline performance capability.

Well looks like you accomplished both