I have a 12V 16.67A LED driver coming that should do the trick nicely. The unit specs have a range of 9-16V input, but you are correct that the problem does come due to voltage drop as the batteries are only capable of outputting 10A. You can't beat ohm's law! I see some video's out there that their heater only draws a peak of 10A and they fire up with the exact same model's as I'm using, but I guess this heater has a higher resistance on the glow plug. Interesting enough that it comes with an inline 20A fuse which I might try a 15A in it to give some protection for the LED driver just in case (or it will blow the fuse which would also be interesting). Thanks for your comment!

@RandomThingsKeithDoes it's meant to install in a car, not on an LED driver. Cars have about 14.6 volts. You need about 14.6 volts.

@despraterado588 I will disagree with you on that one. I have already proven it works just fine with higher current by putting both 12V 10A sources in parallel which when you do that you add the available current from the supplies (10A + 10A = 20A). The heater starts fine on 12V 20A as it provides enough current capacity from the power source. Once started, I can turn one of them off as it doesn't need the higher current anymore. I've tested this and run the heater for 16 hrs on a single 12V 10A supply. I have also been able to start it from a somewhat drained lead acid battery (<12 V), but the battery can output lots of current even when drained a bit. The spec sheet claims it can run from 9-16V input, but the current required will depend on the actual voltage given ohm's law. The end of the day, its all about power, which (Power=Voltage*Current) 12V*10A = 120 Watts from one of those cubes, but on startup it wants upwards of 144 Watts (12V*12A as measured with clamp meter) for a short period of time. I will agree that 14.6V 10A should be just enough to get it started with 10A (14.6V*10A = 146 Watts) but that's pretty close so would still want more than 10A. The fact that what I bought was labeled an LED driver, doesn't really factor into it, its all about the power supplying capacity of the source. I'll post another update in a couple weeks once I have the parts and get back up north. Thanks for the discussion. Happy New Year!

Normally noise like this drives me nuts, but it doesn’t bother me much. At least not enough to pay for a quieter pump. I might wrap it with soundproofing at some point.

Central Saskatchewan Canada. Pretty similar weather in winters to Alaska

BRAAP

That sounds very Canadian (or NE USA). These old machines bring back memories for so many people!

@@JackMcvoy my wife thinks this is where she got it: jtsoutdoorfabrics.com/white_water_ribbed_vinyl_fabric_black

Glad you like it!

That’s not funny!

Oh I will fix it first opportunity. This happened in the middle of a 3 hr trip. All lights work, this is specifically for the electric trailer brakes which are notorious for breaking wires and are built cheaply. The problem is that the alert takes over and it becomes impossible to use things like GPS, etc. This causes some people to do unsafe things like keep being distracted by having to constantly dismiss the prompt, or even worse, disconnecting the trailer electrical and then have no lights!

It will be! The problem is that the alert takes over and it becomes impossible to use things like GPS, etc. This causes some people to do unsafe things like keep being distracted by having to constantly dismiss the prompt, or even worse, disconnecting the trailer electrical and then have no lights!

with a frayed short it keeps constantly cycling through. I could live with the warning message on the DIC, but the binging will drive a person insane! The problem is that the alert takes over and it becomes impossible to use things like GPS, etc. This causes some people to do unsafe things like keep being distracted by having to constantly dismiss the prompt, or even worse, disconnecting the trailer electrical and then have no lights!

Yes, it will be fixed, but not on the side of the road. The problem is that the alert takes over and it becomes impossible to use things like GPS, etc. This causes some people to do unsafe things like keep being distracted by having to constantly dismiss the prompt, or even worse, disconnecting the trailer electrical and then have no lights!

@@RandomThingsKeithDoes Ahhh yeah I see your point, maybe just show the warning once when the car starts maybe. I apologise for my hasty remarks

@@adunkley92no worries, it’s hard to fit everything into 60 seconds 😊

Luckily I had a load that didn't require brakes.The problem is that the alert takes over and it becomes impossible to use things like GPS, etc. This causes some people to do unsafe things like keep being distracted by having to constantly dismiss the prompt, or even worse, disconnecting the trailer electrical and then have no lights!

I agree completely and that is the point I was trying to get across. At least have some kind of setting to suppress the audio alerts that will drive you insane. The problem is that the alert takes over and it becomes impossible to use things like GPS, etc. This causes some people to do unsafe things like keep being distracted by having to constantly dismiss the prompt, or even worse, disconnecting the trailer electrical and then have no lights!

I did and there was nothing external that was causing it. Most likely one of the magnet wires within one of the 4 wheel hubs has partially broken. This has happened many times before as I do a lot of trailering and have performed many repairs over the years.

No but he had time to make a video post it and complain about it

Yes, I checked once a safe place to pull over was available. It is most likely the magnet inside one of the hubs, so its not a roadside repair.

After 45 minutes of that beeping constantly with no way to suppress it, rage was taking over. The problem is that the alert takes over and it becomes impossible to use things like GPS, etc. This causes some people to do unsafe things like keep being distracted by having to constantly dismiss the prompt, or even worse, disconnecting the trailer electrical and then have no lights!

@@RandomThingsKeithDoes The reason I asked, is because it's usually caused by a bad ground. Usually on the trailer side. Especially with older trailers that only ground through the coupler. That will give you an intermittent connection, which causes an intermittent warning on your dash.

there is nothing wrong with the car its the trailer and they get wiring issues all the time especially offroad camping trailers or work trailers or it could just have a been through water and now is having a hissy fit features like this should mute and stop once you acknowledge them with the ok button and not come back up again until the car is restarted

He should just pull over right there and rewire the trailer? 😅

@andreweastaughffe1070 Exactly! I wish they made trailer wiring better. Manufacturers using scotch locks on brake wiring is my biggest pet peave. I replace them on all my trailers with proper soldered connections, but this is most likely a magnet inside one of the hubs.

@AapVanDieKaap its like these people don't have experience using trailers.

Right? Sounds like you have experienced this too?

could it not have a fault in the plug on the car? i got 3 trailers all have different plugs and need different adapters to make them work right? why not make it turn off once you hit ok until you start the car next or maybe he is on his way to get it fixed but its 100 miles to the nearest place to get it fixed or maybe it just doesn't like getting wet when you go through a water crossing? why put useless shit like this in a car that is meant to do work? because the people that need this don't do the work its meant to do but looks good on paper and adds another system to fuck up and require repairs to not drive you insane when your out in a field all day listen to it beep and turn off your music

@bigtexuntex7825 I actually was fuelling up beside an RCMP and we were talking about it as I was checking my wiring. I did not have a load that required brakes, so I was not being negligent, or driving illegally. Even an empty trailer will act this way on GM trucks. The problem is that the alert takes over and it becomes impossible to use things like GPS, etc. This causes some people to do unsafe things like keep being distracted by having to constantly dismiss the prompt, or even worse, disconnecting the trailer electrical and then have no lights! Under these types of circumstances, people will do the most unsafe things. This is software creating a possibly unsafe behaviour by the user. plain and simple.

they are just adding more bloat crap in to make you go to the dealership for servicing. cars peaked around 2010 just the right balance of safety and comfort without the annoying side of it all and limiting things if one sensor on the tire is 2 psi lower then another