This is garbage. Wood rots d if you use it

Thank you , brother for your advice and knowledge

Pest control technician here. Termites love to hide behind spray foam and we cannot see it to inspect or treat it. I recommend nobody use spray foam on wood or concrete in crawl spaces. The termites get behind the foam and eat the wood. Don't cover the blocks in your crawl with anything. Moisture barriers on the soil are great, just don't run the plastic more than 6" off the ground. That leaves plenty of space to inspect for termites, and we can treat it easily.

So, in a cold climate, northern Iowa. Would 3 inches of closed cell plus 8 inches of open cell prevent condensation as long as it is water and air tight?

Hey, i need help!! Building a cabin and im working on the roof. It has a loft so the whole cabin has a cathedral ceiling. I want to spray the roof deck qoth 2" of closed cell foam. I want to use wood planks for the ceiling. What should i do after i spray the roof deck with 2" of closed cell foam? Should i add a vapor barrier (6mill plastic) and then add unfaced batts? Or should i just leave it alone? Or should i just use batts and no spray foam? Thanks. Looking to hear from you!

atlas.eia.gov/datasets/eia::climate-zones-doe-building-america-program/about buildingscience.com/documents/building-science-insights-newsletters/bsi-100-hybrid-assemblies#fig02

The problem is not flash and batt. If it was batt only you would have the same problem. The dew point is going to be somewhere within the batt and you will get condensation, whether there is foam or not. There are loads homes with flash and batt, they are not getting torn down due to moisture buildup. Control your interior humidity and it won't be an issue. It is just building science

Don't tell people what they are supposed to smell and become angry when their perception of reality differs. I know for sure no one's perception of reality is the same. And i also know that people who tell others what their perception should be are the ones farthest away from actual reality. If you can't smell it doesn't mean there is no smell. It means you don't smell it. Do an objective test to see reality.

I imagine that house will be finished spraying in about 3 months.

... a shame that 80% of contractors, all trades, r not as honorable as u. ... 90% of my jobs r word of mouth, and, 70% of those jobs r redoing what the other contractors, includes most of the big guys. ... so the poor client has to pay 3 times. ... the first shyte job, for me to undo the shyte job, then for me to do the job rite ... shows u r a real man, few left, most r girlyboys ... too bad it gets worse every year. ... few have a conscience, know the meanings of respect and honor, especial the kids these days

Notice it not that ugly yellow color I see on everything else on the internet.. is there color options now!?

Great explanation of the science involved with this topic

A bit of a retrofit question. I am having to replace the siding on my home so I can come from the outside in. Would it be acceptable to spray straight to the drywall side of the stud bay and batt out to the exterior sheathing?

What about flash and flash? 2in closed cell, the rest with open cell

I have found a video about this from Matt Risinger from the build show. Their is a better vapor barrier that acts like a one way valve letting any moisture or humidity behind it out but wont let and in the wall cavity. Yes you must install per manufacture specs taping all seams and joints, penetrations such as boxes ect. Look up SIGA Majrex 200. I would like to here your comments on this?

How much money did the chemical companies pay to have this report done? So that they could sell more product. Who would make money or benefit from arguing the other side, no one. So, this will always be a biased review. Venting will always take longer and cost more, plus lead to more questions from clients and more complicated assemblies. But when problems arise, who's on the hook?

Bro. I’m going down the rabbit trail on whether or not Spray foam is adequate for my vaulted ceiling, or if it will give me condensation issues. Thanks for mentioning your playlist, I’m going to check it out.

I wish the builder was smart enough to know 2x6 walls are worth the extra money

I live in eastern Ontario, gets mighty cold here sometimes. I am restoring an old house, and rebuilding the outside walls in 2x6, was thinking of going with 3" closed cell on the inside between the studs and 2" rock wool on the outside over ZIP sheeting. Do you foresee any issues with that, R-value and or condensation problems? I would really appreciate your input, love your channel and look forward to every video. Also would be nice if there was a resource to find competent reputable installers in the area.

What is your opinion of of doing 2 inches of closed cell then stacking 4-6 inches open cell spray foam on a metal barndominimum in Texas (builder wants to do this to use closed as a vapor barrier against the metal)

I looked into flash and batt for house i am designing for me. Its principle is sound, but the products to pukk it off need to be researched better. The purpose of the spray foam seems to be a vapor retardant layer of near continuous insulation towards the outside of the wall cavity, but still on the inside space. The issue becomes the vapor barrier on the cold side of the wall is going to create issues. Polyiso insulation, like a Zip-R panel, on the exterior wall gives the same principle theory as spray foam, but puts the vapor retardant layer all the way exterior, allowing the poly iso and wall cavity insulation to have a more desired effect. This method is not applied to roofs, only walls. There is a method for roofs in this style, but you give up something to do it, and is typically seen under metal roofs

What about 2” of closed cell then 3.5” of wet blown cellulose for sound? I’ve seen this done where I live in Iowa and so far so good.

are you saying that it would be a good idea to spray on the top of my sheet rock ceiling to fix the all teared vapor barrier and then install cellulose? i,m in quebec, old bungalow already all spray foamed (first floor and basement)

I have 4 inches on roof, 3 inches on my walls. I talked to my inspector, he knows that spray foam is superior to others. I was so happy to hear that from him. I have a 2100 sq ft barndo. Did 8ft on center, grits inside. All I can say is wow! I don't have my in floor heat on yet, just two small heaters and it keeps it at 55 degrees all day long. Even today, it's -15 in Wisconsin. I am a believer of spray foam. I see a lot of people online that say it's worthless and fiberglass does just as good. I have Rockwool in one wall, you can put your hand on it and feel the cold. Can't feel it through the spray foam.

Impermeable material and permeable material is the as thing as oil and water. A hole from a puncture is same thing as leak in a boat below the water line. Now that studies have tested closed cell spray foam and the conclusions are mounting that the R-value does not reflect the true positivity of the product where the resistance is nearly doubled of the printed value. As this R-value is based from the fiberglass standards. I hope that this information will become standard for the inspectors to approve and avoiding the dangerous Flash & Batt just to meet code. IMHO, this is the first thing that should be pushed through in this eduction push. With next thing being Exterior Continuous Insulation using the right products including the WRB to avoid using permeable material. Get that dew point away from the interior side. Just my 2 cents.

If I was to spray my basement rim joists with 2-3" of closed cell and I then stuffed my rim joist full of rockwool for sound proofing when I fully develop my basement. I assume that i would be creating the same issue as you are describing in this video? How would you sound proof the basement ceiling? Thanks again for all the info,

I have an old house that I want to stop some of the air leakage on. I am putting Rockwool batts in, but can I seal the cracks in the exterior 2 x sheathing with spray foam to prevent so much air leakage and then cover that with the batt. Batts are R15, Climate Zone 4.

Sorry if this allready asked but what if you put the r 19 in first?

You are both right and wrong on this, which is exactly why the new code requires a certain amount of exterior insulation depending on your climate zone, since this condensation issue will effect anyone who is trying to use higher amounts of insulation to reduce their energy consumption regardless of whether or not they're using spray foam. If you just spray a couple inches of closed cell foam on the inside surface of the sheathing, then stuff a bunch of vapor permeable insulation between the foam and the interior wall surface (whether that is T&G or drywall) you will almost certainly have condensation problems and the mold that comes with it. However, that doesn't mean you can't successfully do a flash and batt system, you just need to keep the temperature of the condensing surface (the inside surface of the closed cell foam in this case) above the dew point. This can be achieved in several ways. The first is to reduce the thickness of the batt insulation to allow more of the interior heat to reach the surface of the spray foam, such as using 2 inches of closed cell foam and an R13 batt instead of 2 inches of spray foam and an R21 batt. The second is to increase the thickness of the closed cell spray foam so that more insulation is on the outside of the condensing surface, such as having 4 inches of closed cell foam then an R21 batt. Finally, you can also put more insulation on the outside of the condensing surface through the use of exterior insulation, such as an R10 foam board, 2 inches of closed cell foam, and an R21 batt. This last method is why the code now requires a certain amount of exterior insulation, either the prescriptive amounts listed in the code for 2x4 and 2x6 wood framed walls, or a certain percentage of the total insulation value needs to be continuous exterior insulation. This last part brings me to a question for you: Have you seen the new X bracket product from InSoFast that allows you to spray the entire exterior of a home in continuous closed cell spray foam while still being able to attach furring strips for your siding? If so, what is your opinion on doing this and spraying 3 to 4 inches of closed cell foam on the exterior of a house to meet the code requirement of zero cavity insulation and R20 continuous exterior insulation?

In this situation, as I understand it, the builder put insufficient spray foam in and too much batt insulation. Suppose this was a 2x8 t-stud wall in a warmer humid climate (zone 2-3) with 3.5" of closed cell (R~24) and R15 rockwool batts on top of that? Exterior sheathing would be CDX plywood with AlumaFlash (vapor impermeable) peel and stick wrap. Even on the few days where temperature dips below freezing in this area, wouldn't the 3.5" of spray foam keep that wall cavity warm enough to prevent condensation? My reason for not filling the whole thing with foam is to have a deep space which is pure, uninterrupted foam and the interior half be my space for wiring and plumbing. In the attic, I get it. There is no need for wiring and plumbing in the rafters, and you can just put 6" of closed cell up there.

Mike is Moses bringing the spray foam tablets down the mountain. Not kidding. Your vid about the 2009 [I think, IIRC] paper showing measured percentage of heat loss and the sharply declining value of 1, 2, 3, and 4 inches of foam is probably the most salient vid you have made: how the first inch is the most valuable and the 4th inch almost negligible. Using this as a point of departure, tables of dew point and condensation formation could be established. These would show the optimum depth of foam to avoid condensation on its surface. Of course, if I follow you correctly, flash and batt is basically a false economy.

Did you forget Wisconsin?

What about spray foam inside the stud bays and then rockwool boards (1" - r-value 4.2) on the outside of the OSB sheating (roof or siding)? Intent: Some insulation but primarily fire resistance in combination with 1/2" stucco (walls) or steel (roof).

Unfortunately, I'm more confused. I live in the same area, had 2-3" sprayed in 2x6 walls and 4" sprayed in 2x10" roof joists. All closed cell and used rockwool for the batt. Havent finished the wall yet, and no vapor barrier but haven't noticed frost. Does that mean the Batts were a bad idea?

Rigid XPS and mineral wool is all you need You can't get an even thickness from a sprayed product like you can with foam board

I had my spray foam guy put 4" in my 2x6 wall cavities when I built my house 2 years ago, worth every penny of it ! Thanks for your vid's Mike, great channel.

Glad I made the channel, I feel famous haha! Update for everyone, I pulled all of the r38 batts out and I am going to have the spray foam company come back and add more foam Thanks spray Jones for all your wisdom and help with your educational content

whut?

Looks like cancer waiting to happen. No thank you!

Probably a simple question. If i do a spray foam attic like this can i place my furnace in the attic to reduce the footprint of the mechanical room?

Thank you for this content -- I have been holding off on a closed cell spray foam in the underside of my 3 car garage workshop until I could understand this better.

Haha I was just about to ask you for your number haha I'm relatively new to the trade only 3 years, I went into it green as grass but I had some good tutors. The guy we bought the rig from and my foam supplier he's been in the buissness for over 20 years. O and I cant forget sprayjones!! Uve taught me alot. And there's really nobody around here except 1 company and they don't have a good reputation.

When is the new website / project launching

Kitchen fan, bathroom fan drawing air thru tight spots, It's easy to change the conditions, ,balance iin house.(decking= syll rotting, block vents to crawlspace= rotting floorbords,)paint your fence ,all sides, withlatex paint .

And using kitchen fan during cooking +bathroom fan, doesn't affect vaccum effect ? If 99% of area is sealed you increase airspeed at cracks. Moist get in but not out ..

I used to like this stuff until the owner of a local foam company had his own house burned down by his employees mixing wrong while spraying an addition. Then I learned how often the mix is wrong and what that means for offgass

I have two galvalume steel arch buildings here in Florida. I was quoted over 40 k to spray these buildings, and no guarantee that the foam would permanently adhere to the galvalume surface. The galvalume seller recommended that I degrease and then spray the surface with a vinegar solution, then rinse with water, let it dry and go ahead and spray. Has anyone had positive results using this product on galvalume buildings? 40 k is a big gamble to have fail in the future.

Hey Mr Jones thank you for the great information! What are your suggestions for my roof if you dont mind? I'm in southeast Georgia, zone 2 i think. - ICF walls with a 6" metal stud roof. I was planning for 6" of closed cell but now thinking maybe just 3" or 4". What do you think? I dont think i will have a thermal bridging problem since the metal studs are so thin and dont have the 1.5" mass that would block foam. Any help appreciated!

is it cheaper than a wood fibre insulation or like with hemp?

I believe all homes that live in climate zones such as saskatchewan should have closed cell spray foam. I just had my own home sprayed with 4-5" in the walls and ceiling. The performance of foam in extreme climates is incomparable to mineral wool or fiberglass. The only time ill ever install fiberglass or mineral wool is in interior walls.. unless the customer absolutely insists. The bigger cost upfront pays you back tremendously in terms of comfort and energy costs.