I did not, at least not yet

As far as the front crossmember goes, the only thing I have seen is taking care in how the draglink is oriented. If I don't have the angle right, it can rub the crossmember. As for the rubbing, I haven't had anything rub at all. I was pretty careful flexing out the axle with the coilovers off and one upper link removed from the radius arms so it wouldn't bind while flexing. I'll have to get back to you on the radius arm length. They are what WFO provided and the heims are basically threaded all the way in.

@@stoprez2006 okay I'll look out for that! And nice I don't plan on doing anything super gnarly with this truck but I didn't want to get in a situation and it eat the body! I plan to check travel as well without the coils! And okay! They give a length in the instructions but the only instructions are for the dmax build so I take it it worked out may have even gone shorter it sounds. Thanks for the reply buddy! 💪🏼

Thank you for the compliment. The wheels are 17" and they are 9" wide. They also have a 0mm offset and 4.5" backspacing. It looks like they are wider/deeper because the Super Duty axle is about 6" wider than the stock IFS suspension was and has the Ford 8x170 bolt pattern. Since the stock 14bff rear axle was similar in width to the IFS and had the wrong bolt pattern, I put 2.5" spacers on that adapted the stock 8x6.5" bolt pattern to the Ford pattern.

Unfortunately, I have a big block in my truck and not a diesel, so I don't know if that would be an issue

I'm glad you found it helpful. Feel free to reach out through DM on Instagram if you have any questions! My Instagram is @sanctifiedex

I'm going to assume this is an issue with the filter under the bed of the truck. I think you could probably do that and be ok. It's hard to be sure without seeing exactly what you're looking looking at

With gas prices as high as they are, it isn't cheap to drive, that is for sure. That said, I love driving it. Now to find a way to increase the fuel efficiency.....6.0 swap.....maybe a Duramax.....Time will tell

Thank you! I really appreciate that. One thing I found early on in my swap was the fact that there were a lot of the small but critical details that were left out of most videos on this swap. I was hoping to fill that gap. Please reach out via my Instagram, @aberrantgarage, if you have any questions. I might reach out to you about that Duramax swap for future plans 😏

My 2017 Ram 2500 Cummins 6.7 is air locked after changing both fuel filters. First time this has happened…very frustrating! How did you resolve your problem?! Any suggestions? Thanks

2008 F350 Dana 60

@@stoprez2006 awesome!! Glad to know I can put in a newer axle instead of worrying if I can find parts later.

@Digital Venture Movement the radius arms and coilovers make a pretty sweet install. You're also right about parts availability! Just be mindful of the difference in width and the different lug patterns if you use a Chevy rear axle

Compared to a jeep, the wheelbase has pros and cons. Where I live, I haven't found many instances where the wheelbase has been a hindrance. If anything, having a longer wheelbase has helped me make climbs and stuff that the jeep guys have difficulty with. In another environment, say Colorado for example, the longer wheelbase could be an issue. With the 08 Super Duty axle, steering isn't horrible but there are options to get a few more degrees out of it. Overall, I have been pretty happy with it. I would like for articulation in the future but it works well for our uses now. Having the 3/4 ton chassis is great, especially since it came with a 14 Bolt from the factory.

Thanks for the info, great content 👍

The wheels are the cheapest set of 17" steel wheels I could find from National Tire and Wheel's website. Tires are 37x12.5x17 Maxxis Razrs. I got them I. A package deal from ntwonline.com so they arrived mounted and balanced.

It isn't too bad a job if you have some mechanical skills! Glad this was helpful to you

It is. It's about a half mile or so down the trail. You'll come up a hill where there is a fork. If you go left at the fork, you'll go down this obstacle or you can go to the right and go a little farther down where you can make a left turn towards the bottom of the obstacle.

I really appreciate you stopping and checking out what we have got going so far! Our kid's sports have slowed me down a bit but we hope to be getting back after it very soon!

After the front axle swap and associated suspension, rear shackle flip, wheels and tires, gears and lockers, front driveshaft, and a bunch of odds and ends like gaskets, water pump, radiator, steering box, etc. I've probably spent close to $12k. The motor and trans both leaked pretty bad, the steering box and new axles tie rod ends we super sloppy, and a bunch of parts that I replaced for the sake of reliability, were all done as part of the build. We use it a lot on road and I want to do some long distance trips like Moab so we wanted ot comfortable, capable, and reliable.

As far as comfort, it feels great, nice and smooth especially on road. Off road I have had no complaints either. It's seriously like wheeling on a couch haha

Thank you for the kind words. Sharing and inspiring others is why I wanted to document the process. I love the rig and it'd been a lot of fun. I have found that the radius arms, especially using the stock axle mounts/bushings, are pretty limited with regards to flex. I have found that my rear suspension does most of the work. Eventually I plan to move to a 3 link. If overlanding, camping, or light wheeling are the intent, radius will more than meat the need but I want to get into much more difficult stuff and I'm already finding places where I'm reaching the limits. That said, I am super impressed with how well it works. I, and those watching the rig wheel, have said that it's almost cheating haha

@@stoprez2006 Haha!...your welcome!....that's the goal with mine I want the most flex out of my build as well so it will be able to take on anything...I don't plan on beating the sheet metal off of it...I plan for a repaint in the factory colors of the light and dark amberwood metallic because my rig suffers from the clear and paint peel just like yours does!...I'd like to follow you on Instagram and if you have a Facebook handle that fellow fans can follow your progress and other builds and adventures that would be great also you could pop over to my IG and see my rig as well!...but I want to go full tilt... drivable but insane flex both front and rear and a bulletproof drivetrain as well...I got a 350 in mine and mine is only a half ton so I got a little more work on my end but a plan for a LS or LT swap is definitely planned for the future also a twin stick T case has been on my mind as well...it's going to be one sweet rig once completed that's for sure!

@@nickstewart3725 I do and I tried replying on your comment on the WFO video with my Instagram info but the comments keep disappearing....weird...lol. Anyways, my Instagram is @aberrantgarage and I have a full build thread on Pirate4x4: www.pirate4x4.com/threads/1994-k2500-suburban-sas-%E2%80%93-08-super-duty-60.2686966/

@@nickstewart3725 Also, feel free to DM me with any questions you have as you get into your build. If your in the position to go 3 link now, given your goals, you might want to. If you DM me on Instagram, I can send you a recent video that shows just how poor the flex can be with the radius arms. Either way, it sounds like our builds will nearly be twins as I eventually want a 3 link front and 4 link rear, triple stick dual transfer cases, coilovers and bypasses on each corner, hydro assist, and plenty of body protection. I'm starting with a tbi 454 and 4l80 but I am debating either an LS or Duramax swap haha

Please feel free to DM me on Instagram if you have any questions. I love helping others with their builds and seeing them come together. This phase of the project was a lot of fun and I love how well it has worked so far!

Thank you for your kind words! I have a lot more in store for sure!

It stops pretty well but it will definitely lock up those 37s! Just have to work the pedal a little bit haha

I think you could probably slide the crossmember back and drill new holes. You would definitely have to make custom length radius arms though

@@stoprez2006 I'd probably keep the crossmember in thr same position and just cut and reweld the trans mount back

Thanks! We will have some more videos of it coming pretty soon. Just picked up more hardware for it and I can't wait to share the installation with y'all!

Awesome!, Thank you for the supportive words! I learned quite a bit a long the way and helping others with their builds and sharing the knowledge is one of my favorite things. Please feel free to check out my FB and Instagram pages for more on the truck. Also, feel free to reach out if you have any questions. I will do my best to answer them!

I just watched this, and have a 2 door yukon as well. Was thinking of wfo kit as well. What the kit cost ya? Said and done

@@donburshaw6505 the kit is 20% off for Black Friday right now. I was ~$5500 for front and rear with fox front coilover. However after buying/building the axles and various other parts like rear shocks and drivelines etc. it will quickly be 2-3xs that.

We definitely had a great time and already have ideas of things we want to do for our next trip!

Thank you for your kind words. The mornings there we magical and I couldn't tamper with the peacefulness in the video. While pictures and footage never quite do justice, I am pleased with how well the camera captured the morning!

Gonna be honest with ua here, not sure what you are talking about...at all

Gotta find a weekend where you aren't working so you can get in on this haha

not yet, it just went live this evening haha

@@stoprez2006 imma accidentally share to Slack…hehehe

@@dennispaniza1486 Share it on FB or IG , not Slack haha. They know about the channel 😅

I do not have any brakes lights on any more. I removed some wiring that wasn't used anymore, i.e. wheel speed sensors up front and the gm front axle actuator stuff, but I believe the power plug for the module is still there. I do have the module. Reach out to me privately on either FB or IG or via email, all of which can be found on the channel's About page.

I can't wait to get her back out in the wild!

It is going to be awesome!

You and me both!

I don't have too much to say about it to be honest. Oil is oil and without doing so.e sort of analysis, I couldn't say which is better.

Thanks, it is hard to believe how much usable space there is now!

Sweet, going to go with leaf springs or coils? I was on the fence with the IFS. Part of me wanted to do some sort of custom long travel but that is above my skill level and bank account at this point 😅

They're there, you just gotta look REALLY close...

Lmao. I was laughing about him wiping his hands and the box of gloves just sitting right there. 😂

I had them on draining that separator but must have forgot to put more on haha 😅

Rockauto.com has 3 options at the following link: www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=26062614 I hope this helps!

Awesome, please let me know if you're documenting the build somewhere, I would love to watch it progress. I have been thinking about a diesel swap too but I kind if want to do a Duramax.

Thanks for the tip. I did that one another trip and it didn't seem to make much difference in my situation. I think the issue is more trying to turn 37s on a stock box/pump which I blamed on the locker. Now to see about upgrading that steering...

I think that it is possible. I was on the fence about keeping it in the first place but the location I chose for the coilover towers prompted my decision. If that module had still been installed when I put the towers in, I may have been able to prevent the interference. Also, you could possibly relocate the module too. As far as the all in cost, that is hard to say. I was originally quoted in the $15-20k range to have WFO do the swap. I am not that rich and I wanted to challenge myself to do it on my own. There are a ton of variables such as what small parts your specific situation will need like fittings/fasteners, any other work you do along the way, gears and lockers, etc. When I did my SAS, I pulled the motor and trans and replaced a ton of gaskets and cleaned everything up, deleted the ABS which meant new lines and adapter fittings, and did gears/lockers with full differential overhauls. I haven't added up my receipts but I would venture a guess to say I probably am somewhere around $10-12k all in at this point. Rough numbers, I have about $4700 in front suspension and axle, $450 in rear suspension, $1800 for wheels/tires and bolt pattern adapter for the rear, $1700 for the gears/lockers and diff rebuild, $500 for the front drive line, plus all new unit bearings and brakes for the front axle, and all the gaskets and small parts for the engine/trans. None of this accounts for any labor rate since I did all the work myself, with the exception of most of the welding as I enlisted the help of a good friend. I did the fitment and tacking of the welding parts and he made sure it was all glued together properly. I know this is a pretty lengthy response and I apologize if it is more than you were looking for but your question is pretty involved and not as simple as one may think. I hope this gives you some insight for your project. If you ask whether I would do it again considering the cost and time involved, I would say absolutely! I loved the process and have joked with my wife about building a SAS OBS Chevy for one of my kids just so I could do it again haha. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

@@stoprez2006 I appreciate you taking the time for such a lengthy response. Does it drive like an old solid axle suburban on 37" tires?

@@Kyle-ev4fk As compared to stock, I think it rides way better! There is still some room for improvement as one could consider my setup to be incomplete as I don't have any sway bars or a steering stabilizer. It has some body roll to it though I would say it is less than one would expect for a rig this tall that has no sway bars. There was a significant amount looseness in the steering at first but then I started going though parts that weren't replaced initially, i.e. tie rod ends, steering box, etc., and found a bunch of stuff that needed replacing which tightened things up a lot. I think a steering stabilizer, or the hydro-assist I have been saving for, will be the final link I need. It is super smooth riding though. The coilovers make the front end float and the Ranchos I have in the rear are ok, one day the back will be on Kings too and se will really be riding like a dream. As is, it rides as nice as our Escalade ESV, just not nearly as fast as the Escalade haha

Shhh.....you didn't see anything.......

My 93 single cab short bed had a gutless TBI 5.7 for some reason the license bureau in insurance feels it has a V6 or a 305 ? I swapped in a 6.0 ls 4l80e bolted to my 241c Terminator x max ECU 14 bolt semi float 6 lug 488 gears with Detroit truetrac on Mickey Thompson 35's and possibly turbo in the future, has a 3 inch body 6in ifs lift. $150 6 months liability insurance 😁 man I'd like to do this swap but whoa that's a lot lot of money. I hope I don't regret currently working on putting the 9.5 ifs out of the donor 2004 2500hd in it. All I have to buy it the high-dollar axles, gears to match the rear and a e-locker or air and compressor, ham joints solid rod for tie rods.... stupid question " do those ford axles or solid axles not have ball joints? I've Hurd people say that a Dana 44 is not much improvement over ifs. Go with the 60 or leave it be. I guess the answer for some like me is, if you cant afford it, there's your answer. Buy ball joints wheel bearings in bulk.

@@kevinwest3689 it is a 60 with ballpoint instead of kingpins but it is way stronger than the stuff in these trucks from the factory. There are ways to do it cheaper but I'm pretty happy with it so far

@@stoprez2006 I didn't realize some solid axles have ball joints. I bet you are happy with it, I would be, don't think I can afford to be so happy. Might be cheaper easier to just go by a ford and put the turbo 6.0 ls in it. Thank you for your time sir 👍

@@kevinwest3689 There are ball joint eliminators out there. Im building my 05+ SD D60 for my 1/2 ton obs burban as we speak.

I will be honest with you, I do have a significant amount of $$$ wrapped up in this. Some of that is a wash between a regular lift kit and this swap. For either setup, you're going to need wheels/tires and going to 37s is going to require a re-gearing. I don't know what engine you have but even with the torque my 454 is putting down, my transmission was on borrowed time with stock gears. Do you need lockers and stuff like I did, probably not but it isn't significant cost in the grand scheme of the build and mudding could benefit from locker whether on IFS or a solid axle. I thought about staying with IFS and building that as much as I could to push the limits of it with upgraded shafts, steering, etc. but at the end of the day, the cost of upgrades and the characteristics of a typical IFS lift just didn't make the cost difference worth it for me. There are several drawbacks of a typical IFS lift that I wasn't comfortable with and the lift kit market for an OBS 2500 Suburban is awful, there is only a couple companies to choose from. A couple questions to ask yourself are 1) are you doing the work yourself or having it done, 2) do you have the skill and equipment to do it yourself if you want to, 3) are the cost differences worth the benefits? The ride alone of the coilovers over torsion bars justifies the cost for me and the capability of the Super Duty 60 and the braking improvement is icing on the cake. Given the chance to build another SAS OBS, I would go this route again hands down over a standard IFS lift. Now a custom long travel system.......

@@stoprez2006 i have the skills and knowledge as well as the tools and abilities to do either way but the time factor tends to shy me away from the solid axle. As a budget off-road rig, it’s hard to justify the price when it also means the truck would just take a lot longer. The solid axle does sound nice for the fact of how horrible torsion bars are on obs trucks to work with. There are absolutely benefits to both sides. I would be doing leaf springs given my budget so ride quality is gonna be pretty rough either way. Thank you so much for all the helpful information! And lockers are definitely a must for any off-road rig in my opinion.

@@Nova_17_ honestly, if you went with a 99-04 super duty axle and leaf springs, your timeline wouldn't be too much longer than an IFS lift. The IFS lift requires removal of all the same parts. Removing the factory control arm mounts would add a little time but not that much given the right tooling. ORD has bolt on brackets that are pretty inexpensive and easy to install and they also do custom leaf springs which would make the ride quality way better than typical lift springs from a square body. The increased strength for mudding, lockers, and tires could easily justify the time. Consider how much time you could gain back by not having to keep changing broken CV shafts?

@@stoprez2006 this is very true, the time and cost of ball joints and cv axles could make it worth it along with tie rods and alignments

In all honesty, I am not trying to sway one way or the other. I simply want to highlight some other view points and maybe challenge you to think a little different is all. IFS lifts definitely have their place but the market for a 2500 Suburban is severely limited so your not likely to get a lot of performance benefit for the style of wheeling you intend to do. I would also be willing to bet when you factor in the recurring repairs we both mentioned, your return on that initial investment may come sooner than you think. Shoot me a DM on IG, I would love to follow along when your build gets under way!

Thank you! We have had this truck since 2000, when I was a teenager, and always told my parents I wanted to lift it even if they didn't want me to 😂

@@stoprez2006 great information. I love the build. I'm in Sacramento

@@theautoanswerman8063 thanks! We are just getting started on this one, I have a lot more in mind for it.

If I could find a donor cheap enough, I would definitely consider it. An LQ4/LQ9 is much more likely though. I love the big block but its SOOOOO thirsty 😭