Bill, I'm wondering what the warranty says about placing the hot tub on a "solid level surface" since that is the standard clause in every spa manufacturers warranty. As a veteran in the industry, this video leaves much to be desired. Have you read your own warnings on page 36-39 of the link you provided?

Can you elaborate a little more on the hatch and type of channel for the beams? I'm in a similar situation and my contractor and I are trying to find a solution. Do you have more picture you could send?

Simple and cost effective thank you

I almost fell asleep

Rubbish

It's only $20k

Seems to me that the finger holes are a fair distance apart, meaning that it would be a two man job just to lift out the removable part. How about installing gas shocks, it might make it easy for one person operation

No. Just no.

Useless video

That’ll wash out first rain without tampering and having a border. What a joke

Fantastic! May I ask what covers the 3’ gap on the 4th open side?

You never said what the first chemical was

6k on repairs!?!?!? WHAT!!!!!

Just curious - why wouldn't the floor of the vault consist of a bed of gravel (and with a French drain added) for faster draining? Seems like that would be a more efficient solution rather than adding another piece of expensive equipment (sump pump) that relies on electricity and can break?

The proper way to do this is quite similar to installing a gravel road or gravel driveway. You start by installing 4 to 5 inches of recycled concrete (often times referred to as road base) you can use treated 4 by lumber as forms, which can either be removed afterwards or left in place. The road base should be installed in 1 to two inch lifts., which are leveled by screeding with the appropriate size 2 by 6. Between lifts, you water down the road base and then compact it using a mechanical plate compactor. Once the road base has been laid and compacted, you bring in a one inch finish layer of fine decomposed granite or yellow sand. This should be watered down and compacted. You then finish screed it ,filling any low spots in as you go. The DG/yellow sand will compact quite well and acts as a buffer between the bottom of the tub and the sharp edges of the road base.

My daughter just purchased a R series, so far so good.

For my bullfrog spa, I had to pull it out in order for the water to flow out of the hose to drain it. It wouldn’t work pushing it in.

Easy to install, I love it

This little kzbin.infoUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.

Wow, that's incredible!

It should have a retaining boarder use #57 crush concrete it needs to be level and also tamped down with at least 4 inches od the crush Crete this is very poor advice never mind the customer that paid for it It looks terrible and thrown together

So helpful. Thanks!

Hi Haw thick is the acrylic used ???

Gives home ownwr reading material to get the hell out of his sight lmao 🤣

You forgot to add Chlorine.... Sheesh.

Expert my a- -! Didn’t even tamp it down.

3/4 clean??? That's it? That's fine for a bottom layer for drainage but I think you need to cover it with a crushed stone as well and obviously tamp the gravel along the way...I feel bad for these people who just got a pile of rocks dumped on their lawn and had a hot tub thrown on it.

What if I framed the perimeter of the pad with 4x4's, bolted them together, used ¾" gravel, tamped it down, applied pea gravel on the surface and tampered that down? Surely that would really beef up and make a much sturdier base allowing it a longer life without the ground shifting over time. It would take longer but would give a customer piece of mind. What do you think?

I used woodglut instructions for this and I already did it :)

Why did you film it from the room nextdoor?

I want to see the finished product. How do they cover up the other end?

After watching this video I feel confident I can do this myself. Thank you

Alone? Wow I think is dangerous and could damage the expensive equipment

Not deep enough, not the right gravel, not tamped... This is an absolute joke. You should be ashamed you charged someone for this "work"

So Bill, you just throw the hose in or did you fill it through the filter so pump gets primed?? 1/2 right videos are still 1/2 wrong

I have 10 years in the spa industry, including experience as a spa repair tech. What you may not be aware of is the reason pumps fail. Two pumps in 3 years! I guarantee you, those pumps failed because the electrician used too small wire to carry the load over a long distance. If the 220 subpanel is more than 50 feet from the main, larger gage wires are required. With too small wire, the voltage drop on startup destroys pump motors. Bet the same thing happens with the Bullfrog. not the manufacturers fault....

i dont think ive seen such a loose half arsed job in my life - i mean really

All I can do is shake my head.

How to you get the gravel level if it’s not tamped down ?

That shovel is calling my name.

I've had a 680 for 8 years. No problems.

Difficult to hear what you are saying with the background music, also hard to make out what you said about chlorine (personally I want to use bromine) but you said check it next day, does that mean add the bromine then wait a day then check it then sort out the alkalinity?

Yeah but what happens when the ground settles bud

$6000 on repairs? How do you spend $6000 on repairs? What was the problem with the spa?

for clarity for me who knows nothing, would you describe further how do you know it's low? what do you see from that litmus and what color do you see?

👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

The manufacturer of my acrylic hot tub said to never do this for the base ever. This is terrible advice

Good job man. Clear enough. Simple and easy to follow. Thanks 🇺🇸🤙🏽

Very good! What about hooking up and running?

You need to put some foam down in it.