It's great you're asking questions and being proactive about your home! You're right to be curious. here's a breakdown to help you understand and discuss it better with them: * Hot water cylinders generally don't connect directly to the waste pipe. Their purpose is to store and heat water, not to dispose of it. * However, there are situations where a nearby waste pipe might be involved: * Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve (TPRV): This safety valve is crucial on hot water cylinders. It's designed to release water if the pressure or temperature gets too high. The TPRV does need a discharge pipe, often routed to a safe place near a drain. This pipe is usually small. Maybe this is what the plumber is referring to? * Condensation: In some cases, particularly with high-efficiency cylinders, condensation can form. There might be a drain connection for this, but again, it's not a main waste pipe connection. What to ask your plumber: * "Could you explain exactly why the waste pipe needs to be connected to the cylinder?" * "Is this related to the TPRV discharge or something else?" * "Can you show me where in the cylinder's installation manual this connection is required?" It's always best to clarify and understand the work being done on your home. If you're still unsure after talking to the plumber, consider getting a second opinion from another qualified plumber. Good luck!

@@blankman4872 🙏

Dang. Sorry to hear that. I love my bike. I hope they get your message and help you out 🙏

@@NorriLara-h4p ?

@@scottrippy8857 thank you I appreciate you 🙏

Yeah me to 😩

@Kubvina 👍Thank you

Hey there! I'm so glad you found the video helpful. Renovating a basement can be quite the challenge, especially with older installations. It's awesome to hear that the extended flange tip came in handy for your project. Best of luck with the rest of your renovation, and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching and for your kind words!

Thank you so much for your feedback! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found the format helpful. Your support means a lot. Stay tuned for more content like this!

Got it 👍

Just outside of Houston TX

Thank you for your question! To choose the correct replacement for the old urinals in this video, you need to measure the size of the p-traps and the spud. The p-traps for these urinals are 1-1/2 inches, which is the same size as standard drains used in kitchen sinks. The spud, the brass piece protruding from the bottom of the urinal, is also 1-1/2 inches, similar to those used in wall-hung toilets in commercial buildings. When looking for the replacement parts, you can search for a "1-1/2 spud" or ask for a "1-1/2 toilet spud." I hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching, and don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more helpful plumbing tips and repair guides!

Thanks so much! Absolutely! Here's a friendly and appreciative response: Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm thrilled to hear that you found the video helpful. Your support means a lot. Stay tuned for more useful tips and guides!

Great observation! In this video, we didn't use Teflon tape because the fittings we worked with had built-in washers or gaskets that provide a secure seal on their own. However, Teflon tape is often recommended for threaded connections to ensure a tight and leak-free seal. Always check the specific requirements for your project, as some fittings might still benefit from a little extra sealing help. Thanks for watching, and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions!

Yes it is!

Good demonstration overall! Helpful.

Thank you. I appreassiat you You're very welcome! I'm glad I could help. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out. Your support and appreciation mean a lot. Have a great day!

While it might seem logical, this isn't the best practice and might even be against code in many areas. Here's why: Potential for Blockages: When water drains from the top fixture (the laundry tub in this case), it can create a momentary vacuum or backpressure in the pipe. This can pull or push water from the lower drain (washing machine) back up into the fixture, potentially causing a backup. Reduced Drainage Efficiency: The stacked configuration can restrict the flow of air within the drain system, which is crucial for proper drainage. This can lead to slow drainage and gurgling sounds. Venting Issues: Proper venting is essential to prevent sewer gases from entering your home. Stacked sanitary tees can complicate venting and may not provide adequate airflow.

Should a double wye with street 45 be used instead? Thanks for your reply.

@@Ven-p3m You're right to think about a double wye! It's definitely a better option than stacked sanitary tees. However, there are a few things to consider: Slope: Double wyes are typically designed for horizontal drainage. If you're connecting to a vertical stack, you'll need to use 45-degree fittings to connect the wye branches to the horizontal drains from your laundry tub and washing machine. This can affect the slope of the drain lines. Make sure you maintain the proper slope (usually 1/4 inch per foot) to ensure good drainage. Venting: Even with a double wye, proper venting is crucial. You'll still need to ensure each fixture is properly vented, either by connecting to a main vent stack or using an AAV if permitted. Cleanouts: Consider adding a cleanout near the double wye. This will provide easy access for clearing any clogs that might occur. Why a double wye is better than stacked sanitary tees: Smoother Flow: The double wye provides a smoother path for wastewater, reducing the chance of backups and turbulence. Better Venting: It generally allows for better airflow within the drain system, improving drainage and reducing the risk of sewer gas issues. Alternatives to consider: Combination Wye and 1/8 Bend: This fitting is specifically designed for connecting two fixtures to a vertical stack. It combines the functions of a wye and a bend in a single unit, simplifying the installation and ensuring proper drainage. Double Fixture Fitting: Similar to the combination wye, this fitting is designed for connecting two fixtures to a vertical stack and often includes built-in venting features.

Thanks.very much for your detailed answer. Very helpful. You are the best.

@Ven-p3m 🙏

Thank you. I appreciate you as well 🙏

Awesome I appreciate you 🙏

@@marttram2183 check with a local plumbing union or employment office. They could face you in the right direction. 👍

Lol No Im not, but is sounds like that in this video. sorry about that old video bad sound quality

Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm thrilled to hear that you found the video helpful and that you learned from it. Your feedback is invaluable. We appreciate your suggestion about including more information on vents. We'll definitely consider it for future sessions to provide even more comprehensive content. Stay tuned, and thanks again for your support!

Yes sir🙏

Nice 🙏

Hmm, vediamo cosa posso fare. Grazie per il feedback

@@chelolelo yes

The device you’re referring to is likely a thermal release device (TRD). These devices are often filled with a special oil and are designed to release pressure and prevent overheating in water heaters. The oil inside helps to detect temperature changes and activate the safety mechanism1.

Nice 🙏

@@emmanuelvelasco4068 Good idea. Thank you for the input. I appreciate you 🙏

I appreciate you 🙏

@@gleambrite2679 Your right and this is why. During the Cold War era, many homes in the United States, including those in University City, MO, were built with features resembling b shelters. This was primarily due to the widespread fear of nuclear attacks. Homeowners and builders incorporated reinforced basements and underground shelters to provide protection from potential nuclear fallout12. These shelters were designed to withstand blasts and radiation, often featuring thick concrete walls, air filtration systems, and emergency supplies. While not all homes had these features, it was a common trend during that time to ensure some level of preparedness against nuclear threats2.

@@gleambrite2679 Sent by Copilot: During the Cold War era, many homes in the United States, including those in University City, MO, were built with features resembling b shelters. This was primarily due to the widespread fear of nuclear attacks. Homeowners and builders incorporated reinforced basements and underground shelters to provide protection from potential nuclear fallout12. These shelters were designed to withstand blasts and radiation, often featuring thick concrete walls, air filtration systems, and emergency supplies. While not all homes had these features, it was a common trend during that time to ensure some level of preparedness against nuclear threats2.

Thank you 🙏

I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble with your Moen 1225 tub and shower cartridge. There are a few common reasons why it might be leaking from the bottom of the handle: Incorrect Installation: Ensure the cartridge is properly aligned and fully seated in the valve. Sometimes, even a slight misalignment can cause leaks. Damaged O-Rings or Seals: Check the O-rings and seals for any damage or wear. These components are crucial for preventing leaks and might need to be replaced. Debris in the Valve: Debris or mineral buildup inside the valve can prevent a proper seal. Cleaning the valve thoroughly before installing the new cartridge can help. Cartridge Orientation: Make sure the cartridge is installed with the correct orientation. The “H” and “C” markings should be aligned properly to ensure a good fit. If you’ve checked these and the issue persists, it might be worth consulting Moen’s customer support or a professional plumber for further assistance.

Sorry Im really not sure.