I don't believe so. The headers came with new hardware, and I'm pretty sure we used it because we had to.

@@fairviewservicecenter7213 I bought mine used. Didn’t come with anything unfortunately. I’ll probably get some bolts at Ace lol

The only way to know for sure is to dyno the vehicle before and after.

Got the gaskets at the local Chrysler Dealer. We did use the bolts that came with the headers, the stock bolts are too long. The only stock bolt you use is the one that holds the dipstick tube. It went smooth except the 2 center bolts on the passenger side are a pain to get on. 1/4" drive sockets and u-joints and swivel sockets make it do-able.

Nice! Time to kill some tires.

No but you'll get more out of the headers with a tune

Massachusetts

Sorry I didn't see this, it got flagged for review for some reason. Do you mean the Cats?

Nobody cares to watch us turn ratchet handles, and we don't care to film it. We show the important parts so there's not a bunch of boring filler. Thanks!

I know right!? I was trying to make it suck as much as you, but that's not possible. GFY.

@@fairviewservicecenter7213 hahahahahahahaha

They are definitely quality. There's no way to know how hot they'll get before you run 'em. I've seen coated headers get plenty hot after some runs down the strip, so we didn't want to take any chances. Plus, the OEM gaskets are really nice pieces. I'm shopping Challengers and Chargers myself now, and when I get one I'll get myself a set of these babies. Thanks for watchin' and commenting!

That's because there really wasn't any. The car only had 41k on it, so all the bolts came off easily. The only bolts that were hard to install were the center bolts on the passenger side. There's not enough space to film it on that side. As long as you have a decent selection of extensions and sockets, it's not too bad. Thanks for watchin'!

@@fairviewservicecenter7213 All Good Buddy

@@fairviewservicecenter7213 did you applied any torque on the bolt?

@@jerichorivera4000 Yes. I believe there is a spec provided in the directions. It may have just said to torque to factory spec, it's been a while now so I'm not sure which. But yes, always torque your bolts to spec. Thanks!

@Fairview Service Center - did you have any issues actually getting a torque wrench to all the bolts, like the center ones? I have a click style torque wrench thats pretty long. Were able to make it work just using extensions or do you have some sort of fancy mini torque wrench that can fit in those tight spots?

The 5.7 gaskets are nice, but they leave no room to access the center bolts and it's tight from the bottom even with the engine mount removed. The heads on the header bolts are small, and it was still very difficult to get tools to fit. If the locking bolts are have larger heads they may be an issue. The OEM gaskets and the thick header flange combo should eliminate the need for locking bolts. The car in the video is still leak-free with no re-torque of the bolts and it's daily driven. If it was my car I would use the 6.4 gaskets for the OEM quality, get a set of aluminum valve covers to eliminate the possibility of melting the OEMs, and use the bolts that come with the headers. I would also consider punching a hole or two in the inner fender well to allow access to the center bolts. Some cheap rubber plugs can fill the holes in between services. Hope that helps, Thanks for watching!

@@fairviewservicecenter7213 Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!