Yay. You're welcome

I'm glad it was helpful!

So, true. I'm sure people have COVID memories seeing the mask. I'd love to say that COVID is done, however I have it right now - June 2024.

Hi Ricky, you can reach out to me, use the contact form at mybikeskills.com

Thank you!

I don't blame you.

Great to hear!

Take a look at the part 2 video for how to adjust the inboard pad clearance. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYTbpmOeeZJshcU

I can't remember the maker of that seat system, but I see them falling apart on different bikes so can't recommend them. I did customize some YUBA monkey bars to fit on a RadRunner and that worked out well.

Hi Tia, I still have the homemade conduit cage. I basically just got creative with the pipe bender and a couple pieces and with the help of some connectors, it turned out well enough.I sold the bike with 2 Yepp Maxi seats on the back. What kind of connections are referring to? Conduit or safety cage mounted to the top deck?

@@jasonserafino-agar9501 In particular, how did you connect the conduit to the front and back? It seems from the video that you bent the conduit to fit under the diamond deck and frame. Perhaps you connected the conduit using couplers near the diamond deck connection. It’s unclear. I’ve been considering something like the maker pipe products, or a yuba ring, or yuba corral type. I don’t have little children but I hate the handlebars that are connected to the seat post because the two users are about 5’1” and 5’4”. I want to connect to the diamond deck without drilling new holes but I’ll consider it. Maybe mount a board under the deck and use regular mounts to the board … idk. I just was wondering if you could point me to connected hardware to the deck or if you think a cam strap might work.

I see from rewatching that you don’t have a diamond deck. Is that an xtracycle deck?

Sorry @littlegreen5845, I just saw your comment. Clearly this is not my main gig. To attach the skateboard deck to the top tubes of the Xtracycle bars I used rubber coated steel clamps holding the conduit, and bolted those to an old skateboard deck. I used u clamps from the hardware store to bolt the conduit to the skate deck. Reach out to me via my website mybikeskills.com and I can send you photos.

Good job getting extra support when you needed it.

Good for being compact, but too much flex while carrying loads. I sold the bike a while back. Full review here: www.mybikeskills.com/bike-friday-haul-a-day-bafang-500-watt-build/

Glad to hear!

Thanks!

Gerald, here's the follow up: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYTbpmOeeZJshcU

Here's a far from perfect next video on that topic: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYTbpmOeeZJshcUsi=u3kBl-BwFef7Pmo4

Any longer 5mm hex wrench will work. The Wera 3950 PKL Hex-Plus SW 5mm Hex Key is a great and affordable option.

I’m glad you brought that up. Yes, there is a point where the barrel adjusters can’t be turned out any more. I normally see this when the brake pads are about 70% worn. At that point I’ll adjust the brake again. I’ll loosen the caliper mounting bolts, screw the barrel adjusters almost all the way back in (reset them) leaving about 1/4” of slack and tighten the inner pad adjustment (5mm piston) until the brake lever pulls about 1” or 3cm from initial lever squeeze until the brake pads engage on the rotor. At that point I’ll manually center the pads so they aren’t touching the rotor as best I can and straighten (bend the rotor manually with a rotor alignment tool/ or small adjustable jaw/crescent wrench). I use the barrel adjuster slack to fine tune. This will likely be my next video.

And, if needed I’ll tighten the cable at the caliper.

@@jasonserafino-agar9964 Thank you; in my case it was a new bike and I think the brakes simply weren't installed correctly (cable not pulled tight enough before screwing it down). The brake lever was touching the handlebar when the brakes were less than 50% applied.

Totally. See this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYTbpmOeeZJshcUsi=u3kBl-BwFef7Pmo4

Great to hear!

To the left or counterclockwise to unscrew the barrel adjuster from the body of the brake lever. That make the outer sleeve (brake housing) longer which pulls the cable more. Imagine making your jacket sleeve longer which makes your arm seem shorter/pull more at something you're holding onto.

Huh, interesting. I've got over 19,000 miles on mine and the only issue has been having to replace the cassette freehub body. I use my GMAC on a Larry Vs Harry Bullitt cargo bike, riding for a university mailing services department. We carry a lot of freight, up to 175lbs in the cargo box, and the GMAC has handled it all very well. Just my 2 cents.

update?

They look very cool. Are you promoting them?

@@jasonserafino-agar9964I think they are cool too. I'm not promoting them. I have just developed a keen interest in them since learning about them. They are highly efficient and incredibly simple and save so much weight over having a drive train. I'm thinking they have a very bright future. Apparently people are even retro fitting them to vehicles and doing a conversion.

Hello tsunamas, I definitely notice an increase in range using the GMAC regen here in SF with all the hills. Going up a big hill and down the other side, I might get 30% regen back to the battery. On flat rides where I'm doing very little braking, I might get 7-10% going back to the battery. I'm using the Grin GMAC Ready to Roll kit and the Cycle Analyst (Version 3) tracks regen stats. The kit also has proportional regen when I use the brake and the throttle, enough to slow and even stop the bike. That boosts the regen while saving on brake pads. Grin has a KZbin video about it.

@@jasonserafino-agar9964 hey thanks for the detailed answer. I've been checking on those videos you mention along with the phaserunner kit. Looks great!

Glad to share. Yes the construction is lovely. Mine is set up on a 20" wheel on a Xtracycle Edgerunner and I'm super happy with it.