happy 2 help sir

never say never but can't say it is a priority, cost too much to make. Maybe a 12x18x2cm one, we'll see

thank u kind sir!

happy concavities to u

that was Picasso's motto, "I am always learning", I'd like to learn something new each day

that is fascinating stuff! Have you personally seen/used a Pike/Norton hard Arkansas wheel? What was the thickness and diameter of the coticule wheel? Powered by your feet on a spindle? For the hollow grind, what was the diameter? Have you used a 'sea cow' wheel? thank you for your comment!

@@thesuperiorshave no i never used a Pike/Norton wheel, the big rough wheel my family had Was from natural sandstone and had a big diameter probably 70-80cm and was foot powered in a water trough. The coticule wheel was smaler i think 30-40cm it was with a grip you had to turn by hand and not in a trough but with a canister of water above it so that you can control how thick the slurry is. They also used a very fine grenish benchstone for the finishing that they sourced them self. And a peace of leather Glued to a piece of wood, they didnt used a hanging strop at all. But i have to say i didnt saw there Equipment myself what i know is Just what my father have told me. That is because the nazis confiscated all this stuff along with just anything they had and deported my family to Ausschwitz around 1942. after the war my grandfather used electrical machines to sharpen and many people stopt using straightrazors and used shavettes with disposable blades

@@thesuperiorshave i also didnt used a sea cow wheel, but i didnt know what this is

That's the term the Wacker grandfather used for a manatee leather wheel he had when we met 7yrs ago.

was there one of those slides from the home pg of the Mammoth TI? I didn't know that. We received it in late Mar. or early April. They're gorgeous but obviously supply of mammoth ivory extremely well controlled...there was about 6-7yrs where Siberia wasn't giving any to the Euro cutlery industry, and prior that temporary cutoff, in 2013 we ordered 12pcs of the Dovo Mammut but didn't get until Aug. 2015!

@thesuperiorshave absolutely gorgeous!!

The spines will not show big flat zones after repeated honing, obviously, because you're contacting the spine with a wheel shape, both in the direction from spine to edge and in the direction across the cutting edge. It still wears, but a large flat wear will be no more. As to 2nd q., yes, I use my little invention to resurface and geometrically maintain my stones. However, German grinders and likely others have for decades shaped their stones by hand, like a sculptor. They didn't have my little invention. So, they prepare their bench stone geometrically as they wished, and then they shaped an inverse rubbing stone by wrapping the base stone in sandpaper and rubbing with the rubbing stone until you create the inverse in the rubbing stone, then u use that to both clean and keep shape of your bench stone

@@thesuperiorshave thanks a lot for explaining.

Happy to hear, sir, I hope you love it!

Mühle has DE blades under their brand? Never tried them. Made in Solingen?

@@thesuperiorshave i saw them on amazon, not sure if made in solingen yes under their brand

@@TL.... location of production will be the key

I prefer the loom strops not pre-impregnated w/ abrasives, so I can choose what I prefer and how thick to slather it.

Thank you! I honestly didn't know/care the flat/concaved bevel difference until my beard/skin became tough/fragile enough for it to matter, but if you do reach that point it certainly seems a big help. happy shaving!

yes, it was

Thank you! Wouldn't really need it if didn't have to pay those lawyers soooo much $ these last 12mos., in the end they may be as bad as State Farm. I'll never believe in the concept of faith in insurance ever again. State-mandated extortion, that's what it really is. Sure hope this new employer doesn't also get bought out by Mavis because that's their goal with any local competitor anywhere!

To me each is undesirable, equally. We all tend to use the heel and toe more than the rest, though, so starting off with more meat in these zones isn't necessarily bad. There are some older French forgings which intentionally are wider at toe than at heel, their thinking at the time that you just use that zone more...I have a 1990s Le Grelot shaped that way.

@@thesuperiorshave I have a Swedish Frameback shaped that way as well… toe has more meat than the heel. I use both the heel and toe a lot especially in the chin and mustache area. Happy Thursday!

they were thinkin' ahead back then ;-)

Dovo has ~10ppl full time hands-on the razors, TI has only 2. Both of them use essentially all the same handmade stuff, but economies of production are different with 10x vs 2x ppl, also the forged blanks are likely more expensive.

shoulda been a chemist or geologist, not a geography major! love me some soap, that can't be denied

@@thesuperiorshave 😅😉

imagine back in the day the grinder had to do that by feel, not only with their foot powering the spindle for the wheel, but the wheel was so small that the spine had to be in air and not the whole bevel was in contact...what a skill! For me the left hand fingertips helps a lot. I'd like to make a one-off shaping piece so a 4-6" length Ark could be shaped really small, as in so small you'd only use with the spine raised as a final step. Sure don't want to be the one to have to shape such a rock!

just realized it'd never be as good as it was and wanted the $ back. You can only sell any personal use item once, as a 'new' item. Everything for sale on our website is never used, with the exception of vintage rocks.

the razor is likely in need of regrind but I'm trying to give it a shot

it is so fine I'd probably use it bony dry or literally with a single drop of fine mineral oil

Great video Jarrod! Always a pleasure when you upload.

It is best to get some sandpaper and shape it exactly as your stone is, that's how I do them, one by one on their paired bench stones. All you need is a piece of sandpaper big enough to cover your base stone, a pencil and some time. Cover the bench stone with paper, grid up the rubbing stone, and then rub the nagura piece on there w/o letting it yaw around (= keep however it is oriented to the length/width of the bench stone the same). It'll take a few repeat sessions to get it to bleed the anti-curve all the way to the periphery of the rubbing stone, but the anti-curve will start in the middle of the rubbing stone and bleed toward the edges, you don't need the whole stone to assume the shape because the portions that don't get rubbed off of the pencil grid are 'below' the other part doing the work.

@@thesuperiorshave Thanks for the method...I can't believe I haven't thought of that. Thanks!

certainly, it is probably ~4" abreast

@thesuperiorshave just tried the dovo soap for the first time, it's nice and more creamy than muhle

I'll need to actually rewatch this thing, I guess! That coti of yours is sooooo sweet

happy to hear sir!

the stones are elliptical, so I try to lean a little more toward the heel at the onset and slowly make the razor more parallel to the ceiling as I move down the stone path. When I think of rolling-X, I think of a stroke that really only consumes let's say 1cm or so of hone width moving away from the railing closest to your hand and the tang... that is not my goal, I want to spread around the stone mileage.

indeed would love to have a rock hard bone dry La Verte to try ending upon but those apparently can't be had 'new' (= newly mined) for now (but they're always digging for doughnuts so maybe one day soon they'll start popping up again like how they were super common 2008-2011)

thank you! I'm just "tryin' to matter", dunno why I've cared about straight razors much as I did/do...guess I like they have to be mostly made by hands and that humans have tried many ways around that and been unsuccessful, so it is a skill that must be passed down generation to generation, much like coopers - but whisky ain't goin' away any time soon, razors most certainly are, and with them will go that special skill. When the Germans told me that they used to use a small fine wheel for the whole edge in phases so it would be concave and fine but they cannot do that anymore, the 'why not' would never leave me alone. Can you imagine if Spyderco or DMT made their finest sintered in a ~2x8x1" chunk shaped to ~4'Ø, so you could do the whole thing with tape/spine lifted and have both the supreme edge and that pretty spine for the e-shaving collector types? They could easily make that, and I and others have told them about the notion. But they don't care. Maybe before I go I can convince a Chinese company to try it for low $.

as to the 'dings', it matters a lot how big are the variances. To a company, every Solingen grinder I've talked to speaks of 'micro-teeth structure' for the cutting edge... they do NOT intend for the apex to have a perfect continuous line because that would not have teeth. They teach the teeth thing at their Dusseldorf school. Look closely at any Böker Dovo Wacker Ern, always the teeth will be present on a factory edge. None of that changes the point of this video, that gssixgun is a fool for saying [for years] that Dovo didn't use a convex hone (now he's wised up, and moved his goalposts,...yes, they use a convex hone, he now agrees, but only because they are so incompetent)

my 17yr old daughter taunted me with a txt image an hour ago of my lame face close up from the email q&a vid a few hours ago...some of her friends circle, unimaginably, will watch this content by choice I told her that should be her new screensaver. KZbin's algo knows me better than I know me, I watch what it tells me to watch and all sorts of strange rabbit holes have sprung up in the mind ever since...were it not for live sports, I think I'd be happy with just that one app u never know what you'll find of interest until u give it a chance!

EDIT; I've no idea why YT would squelch links to themselves, but here is a link to Bill M's shaping with the diamond skates thingy; kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaXNeWZtj9JqmaM I think the flexible AliExpress diamonds based skates sharpener thingy is probably the best option out there. Or get the Z-Lion 60 grit 12x18cm diamond sheet from Amazon for ~$34, and go find a piece of thin wood or something else flexible that can bridge the ends of one of those ~$10 "sink bridge" stone holders, put the two rubber parts 8" apart and then the rubber base below should be somewhere in the range, once you add the thickness of wood and the sheet (which will be enlarging the effective diameter) for a little stone to have a good diameter for this kind of work don't quote me that this is precisely the correct one, Bill M has a channel and JPO has a channel and they've likely a link, but it is something like this tinyurl.com/4frxs7dt for the Z-Lion, if you buy that, please use my Amazon link below so I'll earn ~$1.60; amzn.to/3Vt1juh if you're shaping hard stones, you'll want the 60 grit, 12x18cm. Shaping's the hard part, even one piece of 400x in the tiny size can be used to polish up the surface once you've got the geometric form you want use a caliper with 0.1mm resolution and measure the arc height (difference in thickness of your former rectangle from the edges to the middle), your width of arc is the length of your bench stone, enter arc height and width of arc to calculate for your effective radius www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/arc18.cgi?submit=Entry personally for step #1, I'd rather a too small diameter than a too long one, and I think the diameter of my plate, 6.5'Ø shortest, does leave a bit of concavity $ on the table. But I wanted two ellipse shapes useful for razors, from one part. If you ended up with a 4'Ø stone, yes you can't be shaping 7" natural coticules obviously (you'll run out of depth), but you can do wonders with a little soft Ark or Washita, and then you can always tape the spine for the work in phases...one layer for setting in a bevel, X layers more for refining that bevel's tip to be thicker/more durable, then switch to a longer shaped finer stone for next steps hope this helps, and happy shaving!

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaXNeWZtj9JqmaMsi=tjD9OaP6uKH5Uw36

Darn.. seen the videos from Bill and you for a while now.. think its soon time to dive head first into the rabbit hole. Was thinking of a coticule or ILR and try Bill's method.. let's see it there is time this summer.. Regards Johan

@@dnamolI waited a year after I got the lapping plate. Found a block of obligation-free time to go nuts with my rocks, sandpaper, grit, and everything else. One word - BOOYAH! Best shaves ever. Everything just worked (for a change). Heh

@@dnamol Greetings Johan. Watch for my upcoming ILR endeavor. After I saw where Cajun Blade shaped up a piece of slate, I started with some (Fear Of Missing Out) FOMO syndrome and ordered one to check out for myself.

A customer mailed me a slate from Vermont, I believe. Whoever mined and finished that thing, it is CRAZY flat, a work of art. But now you got me thinking I should shape it in spite of their artistry, and use it as an ending to see what it can do. In my pre-convex hones days another fellow had mailed me a VT slate, but it died in my house fire, it was *bitingly* sharp, like using a hard/black Ark dry if you've ever done that, I couldn't take how sharp it was. I have only ever heard good things from ILRs.

@@thesuperiorshave When honing flat I am a slate fan so my opinion is probably biased. My favorites are Thuri or WOA (I like to play with slurry 😜). But I feared testing with those due to cost. My next shaped slate will be my 2x6x1 WOA. That will wait until I eventually get one of your plates.

the WOAs are expensive? That's one from the UK, right?

@@thesuperiorshave oh no, not saying WOA is expensive, around $100 for the size I have. But I had a free slate I acquired and it was a good performer flat. IMO a perfect candidate to test on. It was successful, but I was not sure how it would work out.

Yes, UK.