Thanks! It’s hard to want to put it back on, I love seeing the motor 😂. Probably going to put a t/a hood on it this season since I don’t want the added weight of my steel rally hood

@@ericperry4934 80e built by Accurate Transmission Inc in CT. Been holding up like a champ, hundreds of passes and thousands of street miles and even a little road course time lol I built the rear, factory 8.5 10 bolt with an Eaton 400lb posi, moser axles, arp studs for the carrier caps , solid pinion spacer, 3.73’s and a moser stud girdle diff cover. Since I usually run it on my street tires the car doesn’t 60 foot what it could/should , I’m not hitting the tire hard off the line, I get into it kinda gently so it doesn’t spin which is why I’m only getting 1.6ish 60 foots but that also makes it easier on the rear. I think the car could probably go 10.4ish if I can get the 60 foot down on a good tire and really get it off the line hard. 3200 circle d converter.

@@pmp2559 yep 8hp90 and I didn’t have to cut the sheet metal of the tunnel. I did have to notch out about a 1” section of the torsion bar crossmember on either side and plate it back to give me about another 1/4 inch of clearance on either end to allow the trans yoke to sit all the way up. Probably could have even dented it with a big hammer and torch but I didn’t have the leverage working on my back on jacks. With my ride height/diff height/engine height and angle I was able to get all the driveline angles in a good place, no need to cut the tunnel. IIRC the engine is down at about a 2.5 or 3 degree angle. I’m running a strange s60 with 3.23’s. If I could do it over I’d use a 9” with a 3.00as this seems like too much gear if trying to use first gear on the launch. Going to have to play with second gear launches to see if I can get more power down. I’m using a Reilly Motorsports k member that originally had LA mounts. I ordered their engine mount brackets and then welded the tabs on where I wanted the engine to sit on the k member using a Holley trans crossmember to locate the motor front to back. I then had to drop the base of the Holley crossmember to avoid cutting the tunnel since it pushed the trans up way too far. I think my engine mount location is pretty much where Reilly’s gen 3 k member would place them if you ordered one from them though. It can’t be very far off If you check out my videos titled “exploding 8hp90” and some of the other build progress videos I go pretty in depth about what’s needed to make it all fit, engine angles, driveshaft concerns etc.. . But if you have any other questions just ask

@@nocturnalcustoms376 ok you went way more than I had planned lol. I have stock k member going with Holley mounts. Not sure what to expect I still have one project ahead of this one, I just can’t wait to get mine going. Thank you!

@@uniquekay4762 pretty mild 6.2 / LSA setup. Cruises 3 hour road trips like a stock car and idles with no cam lope LOL. I’ll do a walk around video soon with all the details when I get a chance.

@@nocturnalcustoms376 i love it great build!

Thank you!

@@SrtHemiPower thanks! Haven’t weighed it yet, I want to soon but based on the whp and ET I’m guessing around 3500 w/o driver. Mild steel 10 point cage, dyna mat throughout , 10” subwoofer in box, 5 gallon trunk tank for the blower coolant, filled to top 15 gallon cell , heavy JEGS star rear wheels. Saved weight where I could but it’s not a light weight or a race only car, it has apple car play and heated seats 😂 …but it’s definitely a lot lighter than a Hellcat.

Don’t remember the exact time for this pass but usually runs pretty consistent 10.6’s @ 130ish unless get a little excited off the line and blow the tires off

@@blakestewart6644 complete trans melt down lol. Pump failed, took out the whole trans. We had one good run together earlier though (one of the videos I uploaded). Really nice car, very similar to mine only a built 427 to my 376 GM crate motor and a Kong 2650 blower to my LSA. I ran a 10.8 @129 to his 11.4 @123 the first race but they are still sorting the car out and working out the bugs (and trans issues) . Should run faster than mine when it’s worked out.

I will take that 96 any day of the week.

😢😢. I figured it was far enough in the distance to be OK. Note to self- never try to keep up with Brian 😂

I want one so damn bad, lol. I love my 95 z28, but I love those impalas

It wasn’t bad. To save time since I was in a rush with the build I kept the factory valve springs (the cam is actually designed to be used with them , it’s a very mild grind - MMX calls it the “hc1+ NSR” nsr meaning no springs required. Kinda wish I did them for peace of mind though especially since I’m running a bit more boost than stock. I keep the rpm’s down though and it has been fine so far on the dyno and street.

@@HellcatKev custom one by Lance at R&D performance. Used him a few times, he builds it to the specs I provide

@@HellcatKev MMX Hc1+ “NSR”

@nocturnalcustoms376 how hard was the install? My motor is currently out of the car on the engine stand. I'm swapping a redeye in my 70 but love the old school cam lope. Not expecting much power gain, just looking for that sound. How is the drive ability with it and the 8spd 8HP90? was it hard to tune?

@@HellcatKevit’s not a very difficult job at all if you’re only doing the cam and not lifters. Heads don’t have to come off, installed this cam straight up so no degree wheel needed. Cam phaser lockout took ten minutes tops. One tip I’ve found is a pair of oil wrench players work perfect for me for removing and installing the timing chain tensioner.

Timing it I feel like is made out to be more complicated than it is. Just a matter of lining up marks, being sure you’re TDC etc…. Lenny Melton has a great how to video out there that really simplifies it. If you’re decreeing the cam it obviously gets a bit more complicated but most of the ones I’ve come across for late models are installed straight up so no degree wheel needed unless you’re using it just to check your work. Kind of hard to screw up with the factory marks though

@@raz_nick4048 weldcraft racing widens wheels for about $300 a piece. I bought these already widened and refinished though. I notched the chassis on this car and massaged the inner wheel tub a bit but you may not have to do that with a 295, a 295/45 is significantly narrower and shorter than this tire. I would guess a 295/45 on a 10” widened stock wheel would fit a stock impala, but I really can’t say for sure. Section width is 11.5ish on that tire which isn’t that wide. May end up needing a thin spacer but I think it would work.

@@bbodybeedy1610 yes sir , that’s a 10.5” stretched wheel. These 315’s can actually be mounted on a stock 8.5” wheel safely but due to the backspacing the overhang on the outside of the wheel would never clear the outer edge of the wheel well(unless you had a narrower 9c1 rear or something). The extra width on the inside helps pull the sidewall in so it’ll actually fit. I also notched my chassis so I have more room to spare on the inside.

@@dresanti5274 they’re made by Ultimate Header. They have investment cast flanges which allow them to have a real tight radius out of the flange to hug the block. They have way more clearance all around than any other header I’ve tried with the ls swap.

I built it with an Eaton 400# posi, moser axles, moser stud girdle diff cover , arp main cap studs and a solid pinion spacer, strange cromoly 1350 yoke along with 3.73 GM gears. Rear runs dead silent. Always worried about breaking it on a sticky track but it’s been holding up so far even with the 700whp it has now.

I want to know the same thing

Just a factory GM ls7 cam , I believe it’s PN 12638426. It’s extremely close in specs to the factory ls9 cam. The ls9 cam would probably be a little better for boost (tighter LSA by like 1 degree) but I really don’t think there would be a noticeable difference between either since the specs are so close

Headers part number? Cost?

Thank you! It’s an LSX b15 longblock with a ported LSA blower at about 16psi. Makes about 700whp. The Toyos are interesting. They don’t hook worth a crap on the street and will go up in smoke from any slow roll. On a sticky track though, I’ve actually cut as good as a 1.59 60’ on them and run fairly consistent 10.6’s with em. You can’t just dump the pedal off the line , but on a really well prepped track they stick pretty good for a tire that’s comfortable enough on the road for me to drive 3 hours to the track on, take fast cloverleafs with etc.. they really just feel like summer tires when cruising but aired down on a sticky track with a big burnout they can do some work. Actually see em wrinkle up a little on close up shots of the launch.

Basically a great tire if you want something you can drive anywhere on, get a lot of miles out of but still do fairly decent on the track with. If you want to win street races or want to cut your best possible 60’s at the track I wouldn’t recommend , at least not at this HP level. Much better off with an ET-R, Radial Pro, Hoosier DOT or even a bias slick then

That's awesome man. I'm only making 330 to the wheels so I think they would hook up for me at the track. These tires caught my eye from looking through forums online. People saying there somewhere between nt555r and m/t radials. It's amazing you cut a 1.59 60 foot with them.

Yes sir. LSX b15 376 topped with an LSA blower.

I know! I wasn’t expecting them to rub that bad, but after looking at them I don’t know why I wouldn’t have expected that. That are actually rubbing BETWEEN the wheel arches, as in the diameter is to tall they touch the front and back edge of the wheel arch. I have three ideas. Idea one is just buy another wheel with more BS to push the tire deeper into the wheel well and away from the arches. Should work fine but I really like the stock wheel look Option 2 is have the face of the wheel machines to do the same, but I don’t know how much can safely be removed- probably not enough Option 3 is have the stock wheel widened to 10” which should help suck the tire back away from the edge of the lip and give me more room , and I think that might be enough to fix it. Of course the final option is to just abandon them and go to an ET Radial or ET-R which I may do anyway. These swayed bad down track without a skinny or bias ply up front. Maybe just keep ‘em for the no prep 1/8th mile local races they do here since they shouldn’t rub with the speed I get in the 1/8th. They really do seem like a good tire for poor prep though. I think the car can go much faster on a well prepped track on an et-r or et radial but seeing how well they hooked with the poor prep last week, I was impressed. My Toyos have cut 1.59’s on very good prep but I couldn’t get better than a 1.9 out of them that day and the Hoosiers went 1.5x right off the trailer first time ever playing with em.

Look closely . island flashes the et very quickly so you’re probably seeing the 131.16 which is the mph. If you watch it carefully you’ll see it flash 10.67 which was the ET, but I mean you can also time it with a stop watch if you’d like haha should be obvious if you’ve been around drag racing for a while, you can tell a 13 second car from a 10 second car even when it’s no time.

Quit hatin 🤣🤣🤣💯.