This is true. Thanks for pointing this out here James. I menssion this technique elsewhere as I learned to use the material better, but didn't think to come back to this video. 👍

@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal no worries. I've been watching your videos lately so figured I would try to contribute. I've used pour foam a lot while building boats. You do a great job.

no

tinkercad. it's was pretty cumbersome to use for this, but it was free and easy enough to teach myself how to use it. This was a few years ago, so I'd be surprised if there aren't better options available now.

This was a few years ago, so things may have changed but... We just went to the border crossing (the one on the pacific side). They did want us to have the recent health cert, but we asked around and were pointed to a "vet" a couple blocks away. We showed him our health cert from USA. He copied the info onto his form in spanish, stamped it, and didn't even look at the dog. We took the form back to the border crossing... if i remember correctly we took the form to two different offices to get stamped and then pay. The process took a couple of hours.

Sounds like a cool project

2 years of weekend tinkering

That's a serious compliment for a novice glasser. Thanks

Welcome back!

It's a 1995. Purchased 6 years ago in Santa Cruz California. He was asking $5,500. I went through it. Let him know everything that was wrong. He was a mechanic, so he knew I was right 😅 Then I let Amie discuss the price. Sounds like a cool and challenging project. My first thought is to incorporate the cabinetry into the sides of the trailer so it can work as gussets, but that will only work if the toy hauling area doesn't require the full width of the trailer.🤔 I doubt that I'm picturing your project accurately. Maybe give me some more detail on what kind of pop-up you're thinking, how the loading ramp will fit into the pop-up, and what general dimensions you're thinking for overall trailer and for the toy-hauling space/toy door.

@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal Thanks for the reply. I already have a 6 foot by 10 foot utility trailer with a mesh loading ramp at the rear. The side and front rails are very low, maybe only 16 inches above the floor, and the two sides are removable. The rails are 2 inch square tubing. My thought is to remove the side rails and build a box that has lift jacks on all four corners, so I could put the loading ramp down (after adding wheels to the end of the ramp), and I could back the trailer under the box and attach some kind of fasteners, and/or straps, to hold the camping box to the trailer during transport and use as a camping trailer. I will probably build the trailer box out over the wheel fenders, to a width of 7 to 8 feet wide, so the cabinets would not obstruct the loading area of the toy hauler. The pop up designs I've looked at include the "A" frame type with the additional pop up dormers on each side, like the largest and newest A-Liner camping trailers, or a dual swing-arm design like the Trail Manor (I think that is the name of the brand making it), where the top half of the box swings up and forward, as well as up and back, with both front and back pieces nesting inside of each other and sealing when they reach their fully extended positions. I'll probably need to replace the axle for my small trailer with one that is rated for more weight, plus I'd like to upgrade to an axle with brakes included. I also have a 24 foot by 8-1/2 foot trailer that was originally used to carry 4 three passenger Sea Doo watercraft, but using it as my base trailer would be a much bigger project, so I may start with the small one to gain experience.

@traveling.down.the.road56 it sounds like a cool project. I'm going to spew some thoughts at you. hope it's helpful.😅 Try to set some parameters for yourself to design within to accomplish your goals. As an example, If you are concerned about wind drag, I imagine you don't want it wider or taller than your tow vehicle. If you are going to make the box wider than the trailer, I would suggest getting a wider axle too. My first thought on the pop-up would be a box-on-box design. Basically the same design I used for my pop-up, but you could make it the entire height of the box, so it would nearly double in height from collapsed to popped up. This provides the full height throughout the camper instead of just at the peak of the A-frame. I'm not familiar with the Trail Manor, but I'd try to minimize the amount of surfaces you are trying to seal. Making the box removeable is cool, but it means you will have to accept some extra weight since you can't integrate the floor of the camper into the floor of the trailer and you need the camper to have additional rigidity to be lifted by the corners without the trailer supporting it.

@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal Thanks for the feedback. The newer A-Liner pop up trailers have additional pop ups on one or both sides, so they aren’t really an “A” frame shape inside anymore. But, I’m leaning more towards the box inside of a box, which is what the Trail Manor trailers are like. My biggest design concern is wall rigidity at the rear where the loading ramp is, but I have an idea on how to resolve that. As for making the trailer box wider than the current utility trailer floor, my plan is just to build it out to the width of the fenders so it would be about 7’- 2” wide outside to outside. I’ll only be cantilevering the floor about 8 inches out on each side. I haven’t decided yet about making the trailer box removable or not, as that will add weight and complicate the build a lot.

@@traveling.down.the.road56 It sounds like you have some good ideas. The toy-hauler trailer I owned had a heavy steel frame around the back door. Much heavier duty than the rest of the trailer construction and attached directly to the trailer frame. 🤔 I guess the tricky thing with the pop-up will be the lower height depending on what you are planning on putting inside through the ramp. I found it helpful to make a 3d drawing of my plan. It was time consuming since I had never done it before, but I used a free app and it helped me find a lot of small oversights that I could change in the plan before moving on to construction.

It will probably work for every border we crossed on this trip except entering Belize and Panama. Those are strict about a health certificate within 10 days of arrival.

I was using magic seaweed, but they have since been bought by surfline. I use a combo of windy and surfline now.

My walls have a estimated r value of 4.5. Thats 5/8" of 2lbs pour foam and 3/8" of plywood. The pour foam is rated at 6.5 R for 1"

$50/day. That was on average and included everything (food, accommodation, fuel, auto repairs, border crossings, activities, car insurance, medical expenses, ect.) We were a few dollars under budget at the end of a year $18,250

Nope. ❤️

@@TheTravelingTogetherJournal ha i didn't think y'all were frequently checking this. great! hoping to drive with a dog from portland to costa rica soon and am appreciating your stuff

@@transcendcapitalism Have a great trip!

This is a T100. I definitely considered the 1st gen tundra. They are basically the same size. The tundra obviously has more power/torque and comfort, which would be nice. I went with the T100 because I could get one with 4x4, manual transmission, and manual transfer case, it gets slightly better fuel efficiency, curb weight is lower, payload capacity is higher, and since I am taking it abroad I like that it shares a lot of parts with the Hilux and a few other Toyotas that were offered outside the USA. The 1st gen Tundras have a well deserved reputation as a reliable vehicle and I suspect it may run correctly more reliably since the 5vzfe engine is so susceptible to vacuum leaks, but I'd argue the T100 is less likely to leave me stranded with its manual gearboxes, parallelogram steering, no serpentine belt, front suspension compresses balljoints, and a fully boxed frame.

Thanks I got some trailer lights to replace them and remounted them to safer and more visible location. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6K4oYN-Zd6UjJYsi=B9cOFZ7oGD3umJFF&t=312

Having the ability to stand is nice and I can sleep in the cabover too. If the camper didn't pop-up I wouldn't have enough room to sleep in the cabover or use the camper very effectively at all. I built a camper in the past that had a low roof but it was really just a bed and storage space. I did consider a solar generator. My current system is more efficient, has a lower upfront cost and can be serviced or modified as needed.

It's special for sure

December

This is a different truck. This is my daily driver The camper can be removed. It's only 6 bolts, but lifting it off high enough to drive out from under it is a slow sketchy process without the proper tools.

Thanks Mike

gracias

I was about halfway down Baja California Sur. Weather is nice on the Pacific coast this time of year for the most part. It was still a bit extra humid from the hurricane that had passed by SW of us, but not bad

epoxy