Thankyou, I will be replacing the swing arm bearings soon which will include this.

@@craiggrech thx

Yes good point already mentioned elsewhere and have since changed throttle springs from heavy to light.

I think that's the main jets not delivering enough fuel at the wider throttle opening above 3000 rpm, not pilot or idle mixture which have less impact. Did you do a fully pull down?

@@craiggrech No , I did not took my main jet out only used carburateurs spray but I will tommorow

@@craiggrech you got me thinking maybe it s related to fuel pump although sounds fine maybe that is one of possible cause, Luckly I have two more of this.

@@fsociety4829 Main jet doesn't block up, make sure you have fuel in the bowls. Check your fuel pump is working by putting the outlet hose in a container and hitting the starter. Fuel should flow out freely. Check the floats and float valves are opening.

found that it was only the airfilter that needed to be changed . unfortunately I have now some sort of oil leak near fhe carburateurs something wrong with head gasket or valve clearence , my compression on all cylinders are 75 , half of what it s supposed to be

Yes you can buy kits to rebuild these carbs. Normally you don't need to re-synchronize them unless you made changes to the synchronising screws during disassembly but if you fit new diaphragms, needles or jets it will probably need to be done.

You only need to replace them if they are leaking. Normally you will see some cracking and it starts to effect idling. A good test is to spray some WD-40 on them while the engine is running. If the idle changes it means air is getting in and you need to check the clamps and maybe replace the seals (manifolds).

Mine’s an ‘81 converted to kick only (from electric start only). The sprag clutch always sounded terrible and in short supply if at all. Not ridden for 25 years and has undergone a full strip and rebuild. I’m hoping for an Easter fire up .

Thanks never thought of that, the return springs are so strong. I usually give it three quick openings to spray a bit of fuel into the cylinders before starting. Tickling the carbs isn't enough.

The original chain and the new one were both riveted (no joiner). Using the common method I pressed the pin out of the old one with a chain breaker and temporarily joined the new one to it so I could gently pull it through the motor. Then joined the new chain and flattened the end of the pin.

Some fuel will drain back from the hose and the filter but it should stop fairly quickly. If it is leaking from the tap after you turn it off it is a faulty tap. Connect a hose to it and put the end higher than the tank while you remove the tank. You will have to drain the tank and fix/replace the tap.

@@craiggrech wow thank you so much. Yes i left it a little while its not pouring out its more dripping. So maybe i will have to take it apart and have a look. Thanks for the quick reply

I am really happy about your works I will like to new posts

165,000km at present. I bought it with 30,000km on it. Apart from the usual tyres, batteries and brake pads I haven't had to spend much on it. The oil coolers are prone to leaking but you can get a cheap replacement off Ebay. I did the cam chain at 130,000km as it started to rattle. It's common for the fuel gauge to stop working, most learn to live without it. Centre stand can rust but I've never had any problem. Rear shock adjuster can jam up with stones, swingarm bearings can run dry. Front springs get a bit soft so a lot invest in progressive springs. Check your headlight 3 pin connector they can melt but are easily replaced with one from Supercheap Auto. As for the motor, no problems so far, good compression, original clutch and doesn't burn oil. I think it could easily do 250,000km before anything major.

Hope it is a help Robert. Let me know if you get stuck on anything.

Which model