I use the Cafiza E16 tablets and they seem to work just fine.

At the bottling stage. That will carbonate the beer over a couple of weeks from bottling.

No I haven’t . But maybe will try again. Have you tried anything similar?

@@BankStreetBrewery Not yet. Discovered Homebrewtalk about 2yrs ago. Redd's Apple Ale got me into brewing and I'm just getting back to my 1st quest. Awesome sweet carbed cider.

Not that often but have just started brewing one with the Coopers DIY Beer kit. I’ll post a video when it’s all done, probably in 4-5 weeks

The instructions on the tablets say to unscrew the screen from the brew group and let it soak in a bowl (with the tablet dissolved in warm water). I'm not sure how you would clean the rest though..

it will be file. just do descale twice.

Yeah I think you will be fine just make sure you descale like dizz mention or rinse it really well

I think that means that the machine recommends to do a descaling. You can always call the Philips hotline to double check

There are different types of sanitizer. The type I use is the no-rinse sanitizer Star San, which is perfectly fine to contact the beer

I think about 2.6 pounds

I thought the climax was decent, but guessing yours would be a lot better. I wish I could make my own

You’ll still end up with carbonated beer in the end. The idea is to minimize oxygen in your beer after fermentation which can impact the quality. Try using an auto siphon, it will make your life a lot easier when bottling.

There are different ways to transfer and bottle beer, one easy way is with an auto siphon. This makes it very easy, and the only reason I didn’t use mine in the video was just to show how to do it with the kit. Don’t worry about a little bit of sediment at the bottom of the bottles. You will get this with every bottle conditioned beer you make. It’s mostly just a little yeast and some other sediment, and perfectly safe to drink too. Most people will just pour out the bottle to that point as to not make the beer look cloudy.

Just saw a quick video on the auto siphon and it looks revolutionary (and super cheap too)! Definitely using that if I make my own beer again. Thanks for the prompt responses and excellent videos. You've turned a bunch of beer lovers into beer makers :)

It looks like the 3200 and the 3100 have the same internal brew units and function, while I think that the 3200 looks slightly nicer and has a better milk frother (I.e., less parts and easier to clean). I’m completely happy with the 3100 as it makes all of the basic drinks very well. My understanding is that some of the very expensive units (Breville Oracle Touch)will allow you a lot more customization and programming. I had an issue with the first 3100 I bought (had problems brewing day 1) but Costco exchanged it without hassle. After about a year a piece on the plastic water spout broke and Phillips sent me a replacement one for free. And yes, the 3100 does a double shot at once.

My understanding is that it cleans the oils out of the whole brew group, so would be useful for ground and non-ground coffee.

I agree, I don’t brew 1 gallon kits very often. But it is a great way to see if you enjoy brewing before investing in a 5 or 10 gallon setup. The time commitment is about that same whether it’s 1, 5 or 10 gallons for me.

Here’s a great calculator you can use (www.northernbrewer.com/pages/priming-sugar-calculator ).23 litres is just under 6.1 gallons. Depending on how carbonated you want the wheat beer (typical 3.0 to 3.6 vol) you may want 200 to 250g. You can always go lower or higher based on your preference. If you’re short on dextrose you can always add a bit of regular table sugar, not a big deal. Let us know how it turns out!

@@BankStreetBrewery Thank you so much for your reply. I really appreciate it. I will play it safe and go for 200g of Dextrose. I'll hopefully be bottling the brew this weekend. I'll let you know how I got on after the taste test. Looking forward to that. :-)