Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbeque and stove made. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. You can also visit my website, www.flamesources.com

The only way to truly tell Is to gauge the size. If it was converted, there might be numbers stamped under the orifices. A 185 would indicate natural gas. A 115 would indicate propane.

@@frankhamilton8257 thanks, I’ll attempt to disassemble. I was trying to avoid that as It’s an older unit and everything is pretty seized. You mentioned you sell the parts?

Doing a fuel conversion is a relatively simple affair. I have brass parts for every burner system made, including all orifices, venturi tubes, along with top and bottom brass retainer nuts. I'm now in the Midwest, so feel free to call me during normal midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. You can also visit my website at www.flamesources.com

Neighboring train track. I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544.

Feel free to contact me directly. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. You can text or pix message me there also.

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. You can also text or pix message me there also. It's not uncommon for one of these venturis to become cemented in place. I usually advise soaking them for two days with PB Blaster before attempting to disassemble them, soaking multiple times along in the process. Even that may not be enough to get them loose. There's usually one or two that get more stuck than others. It just depends on which burner were used more frequently. The final resort is to bore the tube out until it's thin enough to collapse in on itself or cut the brass topside nut off. I have all the brass pieces for this burner including the top nut, the bottom nut, the venturi and both orifices. Since I have to machine the top and bottom nuts on a lathe, it's less expense to just order the venturi. I have these, or you can order them from Fisher Paykel (albeit, I've heard that it may take months to get one from them, depending on whether they are back ordered). You'll need to hold the venturi firmly on the outside with a set of channel locks or vice grips. Make sure to hold it by the tube and not the nut, otherwise you'll be replacing both. Don't worry if you damage the orifice holder (that's actually what it's called). Those are available as well or you can JB Weld it back together. If you do this, you'll need to reinforce it on either side with thin gauge rod.

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. You can also text or pix message me there anytime.

From my understanding, Craftsman discontinued the retrofit, so now they're offering cash if you disable the saw.

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. You may want to soak the venturi with PB Blaster or Kano oil for a few days before trying to loosen it. Make sure to reapply the lubricant. If it doesn't come loose, you'll need to bore it out until it becomes thin enough to collapse in on itself. You may be able to to this with a step drill. I have all the brass pieces including each orifice, the venturi tube and both nuts. The best solution is to destroy the tube, because these nuts are a real pain to machine, so I get quite a price for those. If you damage the venturi holder (that's what it's called) these are still available or you can JB weld it back together using two pieces of thin gauge rod to reinforce it. If the burner has spun around, you've damaged the gas tube leading up to it. You'll need to cut it with a tubing cutter, then slide the nut and ferrule back over the non damaged remnant. Fortunately, there is enough material there to successfully do this.

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made. I'm likely the only one doing conversion kits for this type of Wolf sealed burner. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

You may never find one. You'd likely be better off just replacing the movement: www.musicboxattic.com/music-movements-modules/

I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made. I'm in the Midwest now, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel. Yes, someone in the industry got the bright idea to tell everyone that gas appliances cannot be converted to propane, but that's simply not true. I've likely converted over 10,000 Thermador units over the years, so if it is true, that's news to me. FYI: while the oven in a Thermador is electric, the broilers are gas. Feel free to reach out, and we'll get this unit converted.

@frankhamilton8257 hey, that was me who called earlier regarding the stove on long Island. Thanks I'm working on getting it today if they're able to get out of work early enough. Thanks again. I'll be in touch.

If the burner is making an unusual noise, then the cause is a perforation (leak) in the burner tube.

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. I've converted a few thousand DCS style burners, so feel free to call, text or pix message me shots of this unit, and I'll straighten you right out.

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Make sure to like and subscribe to my video channel. A fuel conversion requires at least two things: a swap in regulators (or a conversion of he current regulator) and different orifices. Feel free to call me and I'll get your straightened out on this conversion.

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Yes. You're likely dealing with orifices that are bored too large for the application and I have replacement orifices for that. If the correct orifices are in place and you still have yellow present in the flame, then you have too much oxygen traveling up the burner tube. You will typically need to trim the burner tube after a conversion to balance out the oxygen/fuel mixture.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. If you have two regulators in line with one another, and they are both fixed regulators (non adjustable), and they both have the same ratings (example - 10" WC), then there's a possibility that you'll have a conflict between the two regulators. Usually, if you see this, then the regulators that's upstream (11" WC for example - that's what a propane line coming from a large propane tank is rated at) is rated higher than the one downstream (10" WC - what most appliances except a barbecue) are rated at. Keep in mind that the regulator from the source (the large propane tank) is usually supplying fuel to multiple appliances.

@@frankhamilton8257 …. Thank you for the response…. And there is a very large tank outside…

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

PS. I'm happy to pay for this consult.

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. Normally, when a spark ignitor is persistent, it is caused from a short circuit in one of the spark ignitor wires. The insulator on this wire is cloth, so it does wear through after years of heat cycling. I market a high temp 1,200 degree sleeve kit to prevent this from ever happening again. You can view this video to see how this material is applied: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZ-6en-Lo8tla68 Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel when you view this video.

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of barbecue and stove made. Feel free to contact me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. All of these parts are metric, albeit I machine the simmer jets from 1/8" (0.125 inch) hex stock because they aren't available anywhere. I believe the hex on the venturi is 20 mm. Aside from the fact that these bolts are metric and are likely made from Metric stock, I couldn't definitively tell you outside dims of those. Since I machine the large top and bottom bolts out of 1-1/8 inch hex stock, I have no point of reference on these.

I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Here's an orifice boring chart from Andersen Forrester: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/