Not that I know of.

No. Some people, me included actuall keep fully pressurized spare cylinders so you can just change the cylinder instead of constantly refilling the cylinder on the gun.

Did you get this taken care of? First off, Make absolutely sure that there is no pressure left in the cylinder. If there is it will make it next to impossible to unscrew the valve body. Are you using a round tube clamp to hold the tube? If there is loctite on the threads a hairdryer probably won't get hot enough, especially if the permanent "red " was used. The heat gun will be a better option. There really is no reason it shouldn't unscrew without damaging anything.

I was able to get it off after all without the heat gun (after I ordered the heat gun). I was also worried that if I used the heat gun not to use too much heat that might compromise the integrity of the tube. I kept the tube on the vise tight enough just to hold it in place. I used a metal rod through the fill port as leverage (about the same thickness as the fill probe). But now I also have to remove that end as well because it developed a leak (likely the valve seating) after a few fillings. That end seems to be even tighter. I think I'll use the rubber belt type car engine oil filter wrench on the tube and metal rod through the fill port. Hopefully that helps. I hope I didn't use too much force with the vice the first time that might have compromised the air tube integrity. I'm also trying to figure out how to get the plastic/delrin type ring with the rubber o ring around it that seals against the firing valve pin without damaging it. I'm thinking using the air gun connected to the Omega big air tank (I use this air gun for filling so I'm not always disconnecting air lines when filling). I'm hoping the powerful air blast will blast that sucker out of the valve body. I'll try to have it really wet with silicone oil overnight if it will help loosen it a bit. It's really stuck in there tight. Thanks for your reply.@@gardenshedgunsmith1648

That's all that is needed. You may be able to squeeze a little more power with a stronger hammer spring though, but the biggest difference is the valve pin.

Very likely the internal transfer port will be restricted and needs to be replaced or drilled. I made one from a piece of 6 x 0.5 stainless tubing. BB .25 The barrel transfer port can be enlarged without any problems to 5mm. Check that the pellet probe is long enough and pushes the skirt of the pellet beyond the barrel transfer port.(depends on pellets/slugs used) Hammerspring tension has to be determined by using a chrono to optimize power/shotcount.

I did chrono it before and after but I have no idea where that data is now. Only thing I can say for sure is that it shot better after than before.

You meant tiny spring 😂

The only way to be sure is to take the cylinder apart and maybe lube up all the O rings and seals with some good quality silicone grease.

Nothing too weird. Just silicone grease.

Metal to metal molybdenum grease is best

Haha. Just looked and see what you mean. Don't know what that's all about. I will try to upload again to see if I can sort it. My copy is fine. What I did to take out the burrs was a quick touch with a rotory tool (Dremel) then wrap a wood dowel with wet/dry 600 grit paper to tidy it up. You will be able to feel any other burs with the wet/dry as well. So long as you don't get carried away and go too far into the cylinder it won't effect to cylinder seal surface.

@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 Fantastic mate I’m just about to strip one day myself I’ll try that

Yes the freeze is a bit disconcerting.

Pity it froze.but thanks for the great video. Just one other point could you put your cap on backwards the peak was blocking the shot of the table once.in a while . Cheers ☺

​​@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 hello mate thanks a lot for this tutorial...i have the hw45 and with your video i have strip and rebuild in short time❤

Have you tried heating it? If there is loctite on the threads this will soften it up. It will also expand the cylinder a tiny bit which will also help. Just don't get carried away as there are plastic/rubber parts in there. Good luck.

Hey Iguanago,....I had a leak in two of my Hatsan AT-44 Air tanks, I was able to remove both ends of the Air Tank. What I used was a piece of thick rubber tire tubing and two blocks of wood. I wrapped the rubber tire tubing around the Air Tank, and sandwich the Air Tank. between the two blocks of wood. I then tightened it on a vice, I used a 13 mm open end wrench on the air exhaust end, and turned it counter clockwise. If the Air Tank moves when your trying to remove it, tighten the vice a little bit tighter, being careful not to squish the Air Tank. On the Air pressure gauge side I twisted the cover off and that rotating Ring/Dust Cover turns and it twists right off, so you can access the "Fill Probe Air Port" Use a tool that's a least 1/4" in diameter and long enough to give you some leverage, and push it through the "Fill Probe Air Port". I used a "Punch" where I only had about 4 - 6 inches of leverage. Yet I was still able to remove it. I didn't see any relics of any "Loc- Tite when I removed mine. I hope this helps you out. Happy Hunting

Hej Lasse. Are you asking about the spring in the valve or the hammer spring? No need to change the valve spring that I know of. You can change the hammer spring but I would first just change the valve pin to the full power version. You can then adjust the hammer spring tension to get the power where you want it to balance accuracy/consistency etc. If you have a regulator fitted then it will most likely need adjusting if it is fitted to a 10j gun at the moment. I don't find the Hatsans benefit a great deal from having a regulator fitted anyway. If you are after maximum power then remove any regulator as it has to reduce the cylinder pressure to a consistent level behind the valve pin.

@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 Thanks. Yes I was talking about the valve spring. Is there any video how to adjust hammer spring? I am new to shis with airguns so I first thinking od buying an FX but then again I think starting with a more afforable gun is the way to go. I usualy hunt wild boar and elk with a hunting rifle and a lot more bang lol. Thanks for a nice video

I found a video how to adjust hammer spring but haven´t a clue how it should be in my case, harde or softer

@@lassesarnhult9283 The hammer spring on the Bullboss is not the easiest and most straight forward to adjust. Once you figure out how to do it though it's pretty easy. Pretty sure there are vids out there on doing it.

You will get better quality control, accuracy with a FX but if you are after more power an FX will not beat a Hatsan.

It's the same magazine as in the Walther Rotex RM8 and the Umarex 850

Sadly, I have to agree. Think it was a Friday afternoon QC check.

Hull Cartridge co is the only real importer in England

Guessing you had a 20 joules set up accidentally sent,

@@jizzmonkey9679 Collected it from a local RFD, he can't have tested it. I still had the nylon spring guide and washer in my spares boc after swapping the innards for a tuning kit, recently bought a cheap 77K, it was made in '93, so as part of an overhaul I swapped the old steel guide for the HW95 guide.

@@tonyhoodlass1846 all my Weihrauchs have been HC guns.

Where in the world are you located?

Not really sure it makes a whole lot of difference. Like I mentioned, there is a t least 1 after market tuning kit out there for the HW45 that has polymer spring guides fitted to both ends of the spring.

It doesn't take much. The end cap barely needs to move. If it's never been out you may need to gently drift the pin out with a few taps.

@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 Thank you so much for the reply, I'm probably putting too much pressure on it, thank you again!!

As far as I know Walther Rotex RM8 Hammerli 850 Airmagnum (XT) Umarex 850 Airmagnum (XT) Walther 1250 Dominator (FT)

This is one of the reasons I converted it to manual safety. It is really simple to do. It is a PCP so firing with no pellet will not hurt it.

@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 Ok in those cases you recommend not to do the voluntary discharge, I mean that the firing needle is fired and the shot is not achieved? and is it better for the weapon to make a shot without pellets to dismount? So it is not the same as in firearms? Thank you

@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 Given the language barrier and my poor English, the question itself is: how do I remove the magazine or remove the spring from the bolt without firing? it's possible? or should I just point to a safe place and flush with only air, without pellets.

@@miloantares6722 The difference with a PCP is that the hammer is hitting the valve of the compressed air cylinder and not a primer. In a firearm, dry firing the action causes the firing pin to slam forward with no resistance if a round is not chambered. In a PCP the hammer is still meeting the same resistance whether a pellet is chambered or not. With no pellet chambered the air just leaves the barrel. The hammer and valve don't "care" if there is a chambered pellet. Hope this helps clear it up. Like I mentioned, one of the reasons I convert all my air guns to manual safety is because there are plenty of times that I just want to "ease the action" or de-cock it without firing it.

Hi, The charging port is as you see it. There is no dust cover supplied but it would be simple to put a neoprene sleeve over it if you felt the need.

@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 ok good idea! Thanks

@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 Another question, do you know if the tank is made of aluminum or steel? And is it true that these have a limited time of use or is it just that the factory puts it in the manual as a precaution? Thank you

@@miloantares6722 The tube is steel and it does have a limited time life on it. All high pressure containers have that though. Usually it's 10 years IIRK. Each tube is stamped with a manufacture date and/or a good until date. It doesn't mean that they are throw away after that date but they should be tested and re-certified. Not a bad think really. We are talking about modern PCP air cylinders containing anywhere between 2900psi and 4500psi +. (200-300bar)

@@gardenshedgunsmith1648 Thank you very much, the truth is that the information you provide to all your followers is very useful !! Would you know how to tell me the correct measure of the thread of the end of the pipe, it is to know which suppressor to order in my country. Thank you.