Not yet. Been distracted with life and rally racing lol. Hoping to get it in the car "soon".

Sadly I didn't get exact measurements and they changed their site so they don't have the added notes to the description that use to say it. I ended up just grinding down a little on both, test and repeat. Someone commented on another video of mine saying "Next I had to take 3/16 off both plungers." kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHeWg3-Fr6ulhqM

@@UtahSleeper thank you for the information I will take a look at this. I will talk a bit off at a time to make it work.

@@JackTripper253 for the condition this engine was in, it ran fine. The computer was able to get a reading from the knock sensor, so it ran the engine normal. The car had its proper power cause the computer wasn't putting it in limp mode anymore. The big issue is that if there is ping or knock, now the computer doesn't know.

@@Grunchy005 I probably didn't. Still a lot to learn. Thanks for the info.

@@UtahSleeper Yeah and the reason I know this to be a fact: my ‘82 Honda Nighthawk had 3 position petcock: ON, OFF, RES. But all my bikes since then don’t have OFF position anymore, that position is instead marked PRI. Well, ON is actually OFF now because it won’t flow without engine vacuum. PRI is actually ON: flow unconditionally until the carb needle valves all shut. Dammit, parked my Suzuki last winter in position PRI (hoping for OFF) but PRI is on, and I had slight seepage in carburetor #1. Now my tank is completely empty and the engine case is full of gasoline. Which is a massive nuisance because the gas dissolves all the oil in all the bearings. I drained the crankcase, now I have to take off the valve cover, pour oil over all the top end cams and chain, and turn the motor slowly with a socket. Dammit! Anyway never turn the petcock to PRI unless you definitely need to refill carb float bowls, because you had emptied them.

LOL!!! It hurts to remember my age.

Thanks. The thing cost a arm leg and three toes. I need the thing I guess I'm going to have to order it.

Tensioner was found here: 1uztech.com/collections/flanges-fabrication-parts/products/1uz-alternator-belt-tensioner-fubar-racing

On the harness, all the grounds for the shielding is alread managed in the harness that connects to the main harness. All I had done then was to extend and make the harness go from 2 sensors to 1.

I was a little hesitant at first on the part, but seeing it on the car made me happy lol.

I can't remember the brand specifically, but I bought it from rock auto. May be this one, or similar. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4932957&cc=1364622&pt=13326&jsn=959&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbh%2BYrdIIoJ2QMq9prrkIerbFMqky5nGcn4teOg9r2Sw3%2BPr1CNOXFqQFzxO1xi2naIVVDqptp38yXkE5m0eM5QCA%2By15xTcreiyKbrkDUxw8N3J1fJz5zOufanpc72OtvjcAoGyidBOB3quA3Ur7DwRxdOr7DP22yJzkHzetbGELJMxz3Z0xQ8ImaTBEdL7hn6sAuyR0f45TjYC2JQYHkEhzayyjZ1SoEo6whXgR7ZdnJloqAsGZJO4X4lnNCikTV32H38GBdFo6

My first thing would be to start with verify you are getting fuel and spark. Most of my issues were caused by the carbs needing a rebuild and actual fuel getting to them. If the bike can start/idle on starter fluid then I would look at the carbs.

@@UtahSleeper I found my issue I feel like an idiot. The right side ignition coil wasn’t plugged in with the 2 terminals under the tank so right cylinder wasn’t being used due to no spark. Man is this bike fast.

It came with the headunit. The radio was designed to work with all the Altima's from 2019 to to atleast 2023.

That’s how I felt as well…The “Cutting a Factory harness” is just lame…

I got lucky and found it on ebay. Half the parts I needed seemed to just be used as they couldn't be found new.

I am an amateur as well, so I feel anyone can do it if you are willing to take it slow and be willing to look for anything to give you the most confidence. I stopped many times trying to look up information when I wasn't sure on something. Only reason I learn to do most of this stuff is cause I am cheap lol. I think it took me about 10 hours labor time cause I kept second guessing what I thought I was doing and wanted to make sure I had it right. This was the 3rd timing belt I had ever done and the other 2 were simpler cause they were 4 cylinders.

@@UtahSleeper thank you

It has it's ups and downs. Android Auto, good. Shuffle on thumbdrive music, good. Sound, good. Unable to program steering wheel controls, bad. Skip and back buttons on steering wheel reversed, bad. Random Android Auto crashes(not often, but happens), bad. And not sure why, but the dash time is always the oppisite of what the actual AM/PM is. Haven't figured that one out. Overall, it's better then the stock unit, but I expected more from it.

Hoping to finish some stuff this weekend for the next video. Summer gets too busy sometimes lol.

I had mine plugged in the wrong video port the first time. If the screen goes black when you put it in reverse, it should mean the camera is plugged into the wrong input

@@UtahSleeper it won't even show my camera at all. :(

Does the screen go black when you put it in reverse?

@UtahSleeper nope it does nothing. Which harness did you use? There was one with multiple colored for audio video and a sim card tray and a aux port i tried those then there is one with just 1 yellow and that is what I'm using now but nothing.

@@Fizggig I am guessing maybe the wrong harness is on, cause even if the camera isn't detected/connected, when you put it in reverse the stereo should still switch to trying to use the camera. If it's not switching then you won't be able to see if it's working. The only harness I had issue with was the main harness. My camera is connected on the harness that also has the redo and white aux cables it seems from my old photo's.

Technically I believe the car still lets you drive, it just puts the motor in a limp mode, so it will normally drive slower and burn more gas cause it is trying to be safe. Thats my understanding anyway.