Awesome work man I got my own minature mpc I'm building in new zealand

you're making a racing kart with a RF900RR engine? because, that's what I'm looking into!

A few more diagonals needed to become a space frame!

Are you gonna have aero vents that blast the ground right in front of the tires to keep water out from under them like Porsche first did on the 996? Also, I feel like that wing needs to be higher, up above the roll bar, and that the top of the body should roll over and off a little bit toward the back so that it isn't quite a perfect wedge but gets much less drag (if you can possibly do this without completely redoing the chassis design).

cool

The shift pattern is backward for my taste. Like any sequential in a car it should be back to shift up and forward to shift down. I'd simply move the rod pivot on the bike trans to the other side, then make that lever for your hand stand upright instead of horizontal towards you.

I love how the pullrod design gets the shocks and springs EVEN LOWER than pushrod designs. Plus, tensile strength is easier to achieve than compression strength. I know you already have MacPherson at the rear, but I've been constantly learning about suspension and recently came across something quite compelling. De-dion axles. It's essentially a dead solid axle with a chassis-mounted differential using CVs to power the hubs. All the geometrical benefits and simplicity of a solid axle, with the light unsprung mass and lack of torque twist that independent suspension has. You can build it with any of the common solid axle link setups, but another thing I've learned about recently that's compelling is the Satchell Link. A Satchell Link is a triangulated 4-link wherein the uppers are parallel in plan view (top view), and the lowers are triangulated towards the chassis(wide on the axle side). The reported benefits of this are allowing you to simultaneously have low roll centers, good anti-squat, and a distinct lack of roll-oversteer. Another thing you can do to de-dion axles that I'VE thought of that would improve them further is to add a vertical hinge to the hubs and give it a toe-link. Set the toe links to be horizontal at ride height, and the car will toe-in on bump, droop, AND roll. Or you can set them angled down towards the chassis and it will slightly steer towards the corner on roll, or if you angle them slightly upward, it'll steer slightly away from the corner on roll. The former would have toe out on braking, however, while the latter would have it on acceleration, so probably best to just keep them parallel at ride height or just nix the toe link idea for a standard de-dion axle and tune that behavior by adjusting roll steer via the 4-link system.

very clever solution to an annoying problem

How does the grease hold up compared to conventional gear oil.

Tool bit breaking is most often caused by insufficient tool bit side clearance. For a guide on how intricate the clearances have to be ground. Look at a Valcut tool bit. It uses a drag cutting technique which is less prone to breaking. Side clearance is specially difficult to grind the deeper you have to cut. It is even more difficult when your tool bit is mounted at an angle. Hand feeding is also a nightmare. Best is to use machine feeding. Like 0.025mm per rev depending on diameter.

Hercus, that brings back some memories, awesome little machine for its time and place. I spent four years learning on one at school back in the seventies. Back gear was noisy but strong, we used to use it when machining large amounts off cast iron and it used to just chew through it relentlessly. The lantern tool post arrangement was something I'd love on my more modern lathe today - extremely quick to change tools, so very easy to adjust onto height and centred over the mass of the slide, what's not to love.

Nice work. I did something similar (trepanning off the old sprocket and replacing it with a trepanned ring sprocket to fix my ride on lawnmower). Lots of chatter, etc. for me too as it was pretty hard to get, particularly the old sprockets that were welded to a 1" shaft, held rigidly enough.

Coming together nicely. Have you done a weight bias measurement yet? I would be so tempted to fit a solenoid gear shift coupled with flappy paddles and an ignition cut for some really fast gear changing.

Great job once again

Very impressive but I can’t help thinking the drivers head looks somewhat exposed.

Nice work once again Stu. I am not a fan of the almost horizontal driver’s side diagonal brace that comes from the front port side corner to the rear of the steering wheel / instrument cluster. I see this as a potential hazard in the event of frontal offset shunt. Could you design in an element of deflection or collapsibility for this bracing piece?

😠 *Promo sm*

Stu, was very surprised to see the project going backwards. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Dude this is amazing

Very informative. Can’t wait to see it moving under its own power.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmqYZKmne9R5pKM Iam from Indonesian...ini punya saya

Good Grief! What one can stumble over when noodling around in KZbin 🙂 Good luck with your project Pat

Your anti roll linkage is really acting as a heave spring.

Thanks Stu . It's good to see the older tooling still running . Mines the southbend 9B made approximately 1940 and yup due a tool post upgrade .

Just found this video and subscribed as I found it very normal in human speak lol.... No BS or over explained how to just this or that is happening . Simple explanation and shots how and why . If I'm correct is the lathe a southbend . Makes a nice change seeing an older lathe not a huge industrial level item . Will work through your playlist later . Thanks for sharing

From what car that??

My god I could talk shop with you all day everyday my friend! I'm loving it! 👍

Hello! I'd sure like to talk with you about this! I am going to build a go-kart and this is the best idea I have found for putting a differential in it replacing the solid axle.

Interesting project! What is the wheelbase and width of the wheels?

Nice job well done

So, second comment, but this thing reminded me of something cool I'd seen before, and so I took a few hours to find it again, and here it is. The Formula Pacific race karts: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZW9nqWlptdrr6s&ab_channel=GravesMotorsports Maybe you can find a couple answers from them? Either that or Formula SAE.

If you wanna do something REALLY high end, look into making front and rear wings that act directly on the axles instead of the suspension.

That looks like a really strong frame. You did a good job on the design! Did you say that the rideheight will only be 70mm? I couldn't hear it clearly in the video.

Very interesting video looking forward to the build. 👍

Excelente trabajo e idea, muchas gracias!

What is the name of software?

Nice work. Thanks for sharing your progress.

When machining a rotor you have to chuck it from the center (hub) hole. The center hole and the machined surface on the rotor where it mates to the hub are the only true reference surfaces on the rotor.

Darn nice work there. I've had two minis in my time and none of them had disk brakes. I had a '62 Austin 850 and a Morris Cooper 998 that had minilites and finned aluminum drums, a real fun car to drive. Thanks for the video!

Very cool. The Hercus was licensed by South Bend and they made them for many years even after SB went out of business. The one you have is a Model C with no power feeds. I have a 1948 9A which has a quick change gearbox and Z and X power feeds. Yours must have originally had the cast iron legs since it has the overhead drive like that. Mine is a beach model and the power is mounted behind the headstock on the bench. Still a very cool old lathe. That Unimat is a very cute machine, I bet it's great at the small stuff! Thanks for the video!

Get this man more subs

This is exactly the set-up I need for my Toro 12-32 riding lawn mower, as long as I can get a limited slip unit. Love the old lathe, I have a Hendy cone head from the mid 1920's.

Lots of work and it looks nice. Regards.

Nice work! What lathe are you using? It looks like an old South Bend, I have a 1917 SB lathe 15" x 8' and from what I can see of it it sure looks the same. If it were possible could you do a walk around video of the lathe? Mine is missing the over head drive like yours, mine was a line shaft machine. Thanks for the chain drive diff videos you're doing too!

Is there any advantage to the pull bar design in contrast to a push bar with a top mounted cantilever as it relates to the suspension load coming from the ground up? That is what I was planning for the rear of my trike. I like the torsion bar idea as I have access to a number of light GM 4x4truck front ends which have torsion bars and a nice differential suitable for a chain drive mod. They are also cheap and plentiful is the States.

Did Doug see you in his garage? ;)

You did beautiful RS60 replica! Man with brain and hands, 100% respect.

Cool stuff

Looks an exciting project a head Stewart, looking forward to updates as it progresses

Happy harvesting 👍