I like the drill bits, forester bits and other bits all grouped together in one tray but you can mix and match or take what you need quickly. Where did you get the little led light on the tripod? I might do some videos of my workshop.

Great video. Nice content. You sound like you grew up in Bridgeport. Southside.

Really good video~! This is an area with which I really struggle, but I have high hopes for 2025. ;-) I really like the hand tool cabinet on the wall. Cabinets are what I really need to focus on, but so many build approaches make it difficult to decide. Keeping up the good fight~!

Frank, I did the same thing. I own a harbor freight version, it leaked as well. I bought the Wynn filter. I liked it. But it’s a pistol to clean. I broke down and bought a grizzly two stage dust collector. It is supplied with a paddle system that you rotate cleaning the Wynn look alike filter. Emptying the sawdust couldn’t be simpler, cleaner, and easier. I’ll be selling my harbor freight dust collector with the Wynn filter. I too bought the same dust collector to hang in the ceiling. I have yet to install it, but I’m hopping it will grab everything hanging in the air. I hope you have better luck than I did.

Great video and I like the casual presentation. Thanks for not adding any annoying music tracks, especially the power cords. Do you have any videos on how you made these organizational trays and holders?

Thanks mate.

That was great. Thanks Frank.

Very nice!

Love the deep dive on the drill/driver caddy. Great video too; relaxed and thorough and clear. I’m probably about your age, and I’ve come to many of the same conclusions over the years. Like the quick connect drills are useless. I work in a trade that uses the entire range of screws from flathead to roundhead, and slotted to square. Our road kit used to have caddies with racks for lead, shank and countersink for sizes from #6 to #18. Over the years we converted to combination bits from Fuller. I’m curious what brand those blue ones are, that you have. One note concerning “flat head”. A flathead screw can be any type of drive; square, Phillips, torx, slotted. A slotted screw can have several different heads; flat, round, pan. A flat blade screwdriver drives a slotted screw. 😊. I know I’m being insufferably nerdy, and you probably know all this. But I see so much of these misnomers here on KZbin.

Thank you for posting. Along with battery organization, comes wire management for all the chargers. A real PITA!

What I got from this video was see through doors…to me that is a great idea…👍👍. 🖖

This was the perfect kind of video for me. I love seeing how shop storage came to be. The storage solutions that come up on KZbin can be over-baked a little. I prefer simple and what works. It is also boiling down the many options to find the best for you. That only happens once you have tried a few yourself. I think the greatest reason we don’t see people showing their smaller storage projects is because they think it is too simple or boring. Trays for blocks are great.

Thanks, Bob. Doors over the bench have Lexan. Doors on the cabinets by the batteries and sharpening station are glass.

I’ve always admired the level of organization you have in your shop. Remind me, are your cabinet door panels actually glass or are they Lexan?

In a WW class I attended, we were able to use this machine plane shop made veneer 1/8-1/16 using a supplemental table that raised the planer table surface. Thin commercial veneer would be a no-no because its to thin and not flat, as would a planer with HSS blades.

Really nice workshop :D Cheers from Norway.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eX68YnWhaJKJlcksi=rAEiYUFfN-0C03eJ

At 21:27, that is NoT how Festool demonstrates in video. However, The parallel guides ARE attached on that side. I am just firing up my new 1400 so your vid is really helpful

The way you did it at20:20 is exactly how Sedge does it in a Festool video. I did not know you could change side with edge guide.

You have it correct at 14:25. I just watched Sedge video. So, guiding with your right hand and pushing with your left. Great video, btw. Or everything I just said but reversed as at 17:22.

Love seeing thoughtful projects that most guys wouldn’t think to share. The hardware on it is great. Everytime I see your shop I see new things. Noticed the hold down holder that holds two going out and the short one in the center symmetrically. Glad that was screw hold down was of my first Veritas tools.

Thanks for the great idea Frank! I may make one myself. My gas cans always seem to slide up to the front of the bed and then I have to either climb my old butt in there or send one of my girls up to do it.

They sell magnetic stirring plates for less than $30 on the big online store now - works pretty well in place of the vibration. Not quite an hour but probably within 2 or 3

I have the 15, 16 and 18ga m18 tools, have had them for years now, hanging doors, doing trim carpentry and other various tasks, i love them and not having to drag a compressor to the jobsite is a huge plus. Thousands of nails and only have issues when i hit other nails or nail plates. hell, the 16 even nails baseboard to brick and masonry with little issue.

Going to use your video to figure out how to disable my 1332 Honda hour meter. Thanks

They look like nice guns. I haven’t taken the plunge on cordless guns yet. My 30 year old PC 18 ga is surprisingly still going strong. But I’ve gone through Rigid and Bostich 16 ga finish nailers in the last 10 years. The Bostich started leaking after 6 months or so. Very frustrating. I think if my compressor died I’d think about moving to battery, but at the moment the only battery tool I have is a drill. I just hate that the batteries are more expensive than the tools and so many tools these days are sold without the batteries and charger.

I had those same guns and had the same problems Frank. I was able to cheaply fix one of them but the others still sit there. I need to throw them out but my frugal side says there maybe a time I could use a part off them or something. I have problems. I have other ones just as old with no problems. I also had a Bostitch coil nailer I had rebuilt 3 times and finally gave up on it. No more Bostitch for me either. Good luck with the new ones!

I always put shellac on my nuts.

Great video. Always enjoy seeing what you are up to. Oh what a tease at the end with the layout box. Similar to the electronics box. Love the curve hand pulls that probably pull up goodies from within.

Nicely done my friend! I can relate to the screw in the dado. No matter how much time I spend on layout and marking, I always end up with at least one screw or nail where I didn’t intend for it to go.

Wonder if I can disable my hour meter on my Honda hss1332

Agree 💯! I have a 52" ripping capacity on the RIGHT side of the table saw, not the left. The area is meant to support the work piece as it goes through the saw blade. But, it doesn't feel comfortable to make these cuts, why, because I'm right handed, which means I'm relying on a non-dominant hand to control a potentially very dangerous situation. It just takes retraining, and comfort will follow from repetition. Great video

Great video. But I could not help laugh with you that the meter was defected.

asesome tips. slightly off topic but could you layer colors of shellac? say dewaxed blonde, then waxy amber, then dewaxed bonde again for a deep prismatic effect or does it all blend together no matter what?

I am not an expert on dating hand planes. This response is based on the research and publishing of Leslie Harrison. The C & J Hampton company was established in Sheffield, England by brothers Charles and Joseph Hampton in 1898. They registered the Record brand as their trademark in 1909. In 1930, in response to the Great Depression, the British government implemented tariffs on imported goods to stimulate their own local economy. With this impetus, C & J Hampton introduced their Record line of hand planes in 1931. They essentially copied existing Stanley planes, whose patents had expired by that time. Many other tool manufacturers at that time were taking the same copycat route. The Record 043 plough plane was introduced in 1935, and remained in production until 1978. They were initially nickel-plated, which ceased in 1939 as nickel was deemed an essential war material. The depth stop and fence arm locking screws were initially traditional thumbscrews with flat oval heads. These were changed to knurled cylindrical heads, as seen on this example, in the late 1950’s. The box label with blue and white boarder lines was used from WW II up until 1962. This plane was therefore most likely made between the late 50’s up to 1962. For information on Record planes, please consult these sites: www.record-planes.com and www.recordhandplanes.com.

I can't get the Wixey Digital Readout to move through the Wixey.

Good video. I’m looking for a dust collection system for my small basement shop, so this will be helpful. By the way, you already have functional cyclone separation with your existing system, as most of the dust and chips are separated by centrifugal force from the airstream prior to going into the filter section. You wouldn’t need anything else.

One reason I've been thinking about: I think the kerf thickness matters less when measuring from the left (on my saw). I put on blades from right to left. The left side of the arbor is fixed. Therefore, the main part of all blades are at exactly the same location. The only factor causing variability to the left comes from tooth width vs. main blade width. To the right, kerf width will vary up to say 1/4" - 3/32" (the diff between my thickest kerf minus my thinnest kerf).

Seeing such pride and precision in the work is rare these days. Awesome job! I think i will try this out of wood

I got an email from Oliver that said they were having trouble getting Byrd to ship cutterheads in a timely fashion, so they reworked the 10044 a little and put their own HCX cutter in it. They have also added some features: it is now a full 13 inches wide in capacity and has two feed rates. The model number is 10045 and it is the same price as the old one.

What's the advantage of this technique over contact glue?

Thanks for this video Frank! I'm looking to add a light color to some pickwick (knotty pine) boards I just got and will be installing in our house soon. The clear Zinser shellac doesn't have enough color/tone to it and the amber is darker than we'd like so I'm thinking of trying the blonde on the knotty pine. Curious if you've ever used that on pine before and , if so, how did you like it? I also wonder if pre conditioning the pine and doing a custom stain mix might work?

I had my project all sanded and ready for finish when I discovered your video. I had sanded to 400 grit, but I'm wondering if that's too fine for a wipe-on shellac finish?

Great video and instruction, very informative! I'm getting ready to finish some hard maple stools and intend to use the Zinsser Amber as the first coat because that produces the precise color I'm looking for. Would the mineral spirits also help a brushing situation?

Your two videos are outstanding. Very little in the way of other serious videos on this planer while there are 1,000s on the DW735. Great explanations, demonstrations and presentation. I am planning a smaller shop in about a year and this video sealed my decision on choice of thickness planer. Oliver should send you $78,000. Thanks.

Just got mine. Love it. Two complaints (minor) No instructions how to use the material removal gauge on the front of the cutting base. The dust chute must be removed to fold it up for storage. The thumb screws aren't a huge imposition and I think can rig up a quick connect system (maybe magnets) but I think that could be better for the price.

I have the DeWalt 735 and respect it tho it’s super loud with the knives. Your sharing of info on the oliver made the case for me and I perhaps got fortunate at Woodcraft as it had one. I am enjoying it immensely. The DRO did not work and they promptly sent me a new one (Oliver) with no hassle. Just a tip for anyone having to change their DRO, take the metal stem off the planer to insert the new one. Feed the top of the stem through the bottom of the Wixey as it is difficult to put the DRO on from the stem bottom while still attached to the planer. I called Oliver for advice as I did not want to force it on. I think they should include that advice, especially when replacing that part. I should sell the 735 but I do like that planer as well. Thanks again for both reviews.

The technique of joining the two bookmatched sections was great to watch. I wonder how much longer it would take to cut the sides off neatly - it looks as if your 3/8" will be barely enough in the bottom left corner where the veneer has torn along the edge....

I use 99% isopropyl alcohol, which also dissolves shellac well. I crushed all the shellac flakes by a rolling pin before adding alcohol and keep stirring when I add alcohol. I found orange / garnet shellac harder to dissolve and the color is a bit uneven. I have to filter them before use.

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