That depends on if your tractor uses the unboard hydraulics or a 2ndary PTO driven pump. If using the onboard pump, then add Universal Tractor Transmission Fluid to the tractor as the hydraulic fluid is shared with the transmission. If you machine uses a PTO driven pump, then there will be an external resevoir to hold fluid. Often, if loader equipped, it'll be one of the loader uprights.

Yes he was! Very happy to keep his legacy alive and running!

Thank you!

Common sense and safety were definitely different 80 years ago!

It was a fun rig!

As far as I know, Honda GX parts swap right in.

Also would like to add.. “Nice”…

Sorry that happened to you! This truck has been on the road for 10k miles now with the LS swap. I absolutely love it! This truck is also a full CrownVic chassis swap, so the pressure isn't as big of an issue, but it can cause twitchy steering with the extra pressure to the rack. The key is to shim the GM power steering pump to drop the pressure, something I did on this before the engine even went in. I have zero steering twitch and no worries about excessive pressure blowing out seals. I used a Borgeson kit to shim my pump pressure down. www.borgeson.com/GM-P-S-Pump-Pressure-Valve-Shim-Kit.html

It has the original tag, unfortunately it's stored away in the back of my barn.

Thank you!

We're just pouring babbitt bearings in antique engines which have physical provision to hold the babbitt in place. We're not plating anything.

High cromoly steel is hard to work with, however to increase bonding strenght you can rough up the surface before adding the tin. Either use some sort of acid or a blast media to do so, carefully clean the surface from dust and other contaminations then follow with the tin layer. Instead of pouring the babbit you should use a centrifugal casting machine. This type of machine requires a lot of trial and error to gain the knowledge, but needed if you want to produce high quality bearings. Always check the bonding with the ultrasonic testing method, complying with the norm DIN ISO 4386-1, if you want to do it right. The other way would be to fuse the babbit with the steel, these can be accomplished by laser welding the pulverized babbit directly on to the steel body, this method is new to the market, so most customers don't trust this yet and only a few manufacturers have successfully done this so far.

There are two knobs next to the recoil. The lower knob is the fuel shutoff and the upper is the speed/throttle control. The lever directly above is the choke. These are notorious for having the ignition coil go bad/intermittent and losing spark.

This one came from a combine. Holt was well known in the combine Harvester world.

We did have it running and actually had it at a couple of snows in 2017 and after. The video I had uploaded of it has been removed.

@@bigRgurn do you by any chance have a video of it running I’d like too see it if you do?

I have video of another FBM 60hp running up loaded to this channel. Unfortunately, all video of this engine running was lost. Next time we run it, I'll be sure to upload video.

@@bigRgurn sweet I’ll be looking forward too that thank you

These are very common generators. Known for their durability.

There's very few of them out there. This one is the only running one on KZbin. There's rumor of a running one in a truck that was previously in the Golden Age of Trucking Museum and a stationary version that appears it would run. I just saw where another KZbinr (Metal By Charlie) saved a truck last fall with this engine. Hopefully he'll make it a runner!

@@bigRgurn I saw that video also . I hope he continues with the restoration

@zonie70 as do I! There's so few of these that having a restored running version on the highway would be amazing.

I went to one of the largest truck museums in the USA and no one there knew anything about it! Definitely a little known piece of mechanical history.

This "key stone" hopper York is part of a private collection. It has passed through several owners during its life and its original history is unfortunately long forgotten.

This engine was installed with the NV3500 transmission along with the NP231C transfercase from the donor S10 Blazer. As this was a budget build, the engine was left all stock. The version of the engine I used was factory rated at 165hp. For the small lift and 33" Tires, it was a great combination. I used the SBC motor mounts from Mountain Off-road (I've actually used these in several builds, and have never been disappointed). mountainoffroad.com/collections/wrangler-yj/products/bomb-proof-motor-mount-kit-87-95-yj-with-v8

Thanks 👍

It's been years since I adjusted the carb on this tractor, I couldn't tell you where they are set now. That said, this is my process for 4 stroke carbs, and it hasn't failed me yet: I start 1 to 1-1/2 turn out on each needle screw for any carburetor I rebuild. Often the fuel needle may require another turn or two, but that's easy enough to remedy once the engine is running (or if its obvious not pulking enough fuel to start, you can add those turns 1/4 at a time as you try to start). To prime the engine to run, I'll squirt a little premix fuel into the throat of the carb for a quick start. You can shoot a little more in while it's running and you adjust the needle screws.

I believe it is a Bolens 18618

We try to keep them all show ready... never know when you'll have a friend show up and want to run an engine. 😃

All magnetos are basically timed to the engine in the same manner. The engine should be set at top dead center and the magneto set so that spark had just occurred at this position. This provides a basic starting point from which the timing can then be advanced (or retarded) as needed. A good write up of timing a tractor (same principles apply to an Atlas): www.yesterdaystractors.com/articles/artint7.htm

@@bigRgurn Thanks!

eBay has been the best source for locating any manuals for these machines.

Just have to locate the solenoid and jump power across it.

Yep. It's on his other Wheel Horse, runs the mower deck with it.

@@bigRgurn Sweet!

The trannies were rock solid back then. Not the aluminum crap out today.