Did it ever run again? My mechanical expertise is almost on a par with yours, Jason, but I've had the cataract operation on both eyes, can usually find my reading glasses, and would definitely read the workshop manual very thoroughly first. Given that the KTM warranty is a supernatural form of religious experience, I can understand the need to do the job yourself!

These marketed and glorified Euro bikes have been second rate since the beginning , anyone own the early dukes . The dukes that leaked unfiltered air after the air filter box , poor builds always have been across the board . Victims of GFC the fanboys defending then , Austria had a ton of money while most countrys financially suffered . Cue billion dollars of contracts to sell and protect or contracted no comment on poor quallity ktm bikes . Amazing how humans get sold on something there told is good haha , like this is a new thing with ktm . 16 years so far of the same thing , Euro bikes deceived the masses well.

I wonder if the 790 are the bikes that CFmoto have built. Makes me hesitate buying one of their new 450s

Hi! I’ve got a question. I’ve checked cams in my 2018 Duke 790. And I have an issue with exhaust cam followers at Cylinder 2. They moved out of a valve and I can’t move them back. Referring to instruction - I’ve rotated engine to OT2 and still I can’t move them back. Do you maybe know a solution? Thanks

Good idea to check valve clearances while you're there. Thank You for this!

I lost all trust in KTM, when they started production in China. That's a Cf-Moto 800 MK or MT engine. Changing the parts is not a big deal. if you can do basic maintenance, which includes adjusting the valve clearance, you can also swap out the cam shafts. It's a valuable skill and not hard to learn. Problem is the price of the parts. Both camshafts are around $800 and then there are the rockers, which are around $100 a piece.

thanks for taking the time

any feedback on this tire?

It's a tough deal checking the valves. Look at the diagrams of the sliding followers. You have to do it by feel if you don't pull the radiator. Check that the sliding followers are in the right place at every step. Check clearance at the end while holding the follower in place, or you might pop out a shim. I'd trade a few ounces of extra weight to make the cam bridge less fragile to get rid of that dumbass KTM procedure and the potential disaster of losing a shim and not realizing it. I'm sure there is an Austrian engineer very proud of saving a few ounces and creating this insane system.

The ones to pay attention to are the ones on the right of the bike, furthest from the chain, those are the ones that will be starved of oil first if any and they really need checked by 10 to 12k as they have been a problem on the 790, if buying one over 10k get it checked out prior to sale or it could be pricey and even though KTM know this is a problem they wont fix it for you

Seems there are the rockers problems. The cf moto 800 with same motor haven't this issue. Try to find the video: Проблема с моторами КТМ LC8c. Разбираем нашумевшую тему с плохим конструктивом моторов КТМ 790/890. it discusses in detail the causes of problems and possible remedies for their elimination (video in 4 parts)

this is the 2023 version ?

The discoloration on the cams is an early sign of stress on the cam. And going off other 890 cams what had similar discoloration before failing it will increase over the milage. Another inspection at 10,000km will sadly show the increase. Check out KTM Failed Camshafts because many have the same issue. Camshafts should last the life of the bike and discoloration shows what’s inevitable to come.

Thanks Jason! At 7:57 “if you’re new to this” 😂 ya’ll at this point you better not be new to this 😂

Can't wait for a lawsuit against KTM.

2020 was the 790. If your is an 890, it’s a 21+ Thanks for sharing. I was happy to see the view slots. I’ve got mine all pulled apart. About to check the cams on my 790.

You don’t really have to make sure the chain doesn’t drop. There is a bolt perpendicular to the plain of the chain that makes it impossible for the chain to drop down into the engine (at least on my 890 adv r there is). You can see this bolt if you look down into the slot of the chain.

So were your valve clearances within specification?

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The cross bite works ok on the first ride, but the performance fades quickly. Spend the extra money and get the t45 or t35.

They suck

The tusk emex T35 tire is a soft terrain tire. It will have a harder compound than a T45 hard terrain tire.

I have a Easy Start GCV 190 and it had the same problem, starts-runs-dies. Honda uses a thermowax choke pusher mechanism . It's between the spark plug and choke lever and its easy to replace. It heats up and retracts after warming up and extends to normal length after cool down. Part number 16620-Z04-M41. ( round not square ) $10 bucks

The T-35 is a good tire performance is probably better than the Dumblops

It is probably a good tire. But, I bet it is way heavier than most.

The are you are talking about is the governor, i.e. the cruse control that maintains the engine at a fix RPM. As your engine is slowing down, the governor is attempting to give more gas to maintain the RPM. You have to address the root cause of the engine slowing down, which is most probably a dirty carburetor. You should check the spark plug as well.

How have you liked this after riding compared to t45? What kind of terrain have you ridden it in?

So far I've fixed my personal Honda mower and my neighbors Troybilt with the same problem by changing the spark plug. The first time I heard this was back in 2005 on KZbin. At the time it was hilarious and no one gave changing the spark plug any credence for this problem. And I've addressed this with many lawn mower problem solving KZbinrs since. The normal suspect is the carburetor and so they go ahead and clean it and then they might as well change the spark plug while they were at it. I changed my neighbors spark plug on his Troybilt after finding this out and that Troybilt started immediately and ran like a champ. I simply changed the spark plug on my Honda Riding mower H3011 which was manufactured back in the 80's because it would crank but not start. Why? I don't know. I just know that if there is any problem I will change the cheap and inexpensive easy to replace spark plug before tearing into my carburetor. So I'm not surprised by this video fix.

No way would I attempt this , thanks for posting, not for me. But for the ones that dare not.

Sounds to me like you got a pulled up carburetor that needs a good cleaner

Clean your carburetor

Hear a lot of Honda mowers surging. I think it’s a governor problem. I fix mine with a small wire keep the governor from jumping around!

Dirty carb. !!! Not enough fuel getting to the carb.. Water in fuel..

Good video, horrible music, would rather hear the bikes...

I have a Honda HRX 217 self-propelled mower. Was given to me, not able to keep running, usual suspects as I replaced the filter(s) cleaned out the fuel tank, then suspected electrical due to the time between startup and failure so replaced the coil. Nothing, would run strong and then act like starved for fuel, then I watched this video and thought why not...it was the plug. Thanks Jason, and guy who solved it.

Loose nut behind the handlebar.

Try using Supreme fuel

A new plug fixed mine thanks ❗️❗️❗️

My HR214 will go to slowest speed and 'STOP' setting at the lever control will not stop the engine. I will replace the plug. And no one at all below mentioned the size socket the plug takes!

Clean out the carburetor its gummed up or got crap stuck in the jet and needle dont mess with the governor

Jason updated us. It was the plug fouling out when it got hot. The " arm" has nothing to do with the problem. It is a symptom.

Check the air in the tires ...

Breather holes in the gas cap are clogged

Clean the carb first , and really clean it too and at last resort replace it . dump the gas out , change the plug if you want. - wouldn't hurt to replace it at once during the life if the mower - over rated to change every year - not a must . Remember maintenance is a must and don't let unit set outside , that's a no no .

Our Honda HR-214 had the same symptoms and a new plug fixed the issue. Many Thanks!

Don't forget to check the (hidden) fuel strainer that is built into the hose at the bottom of the gas tank. It's a very fine filtering mechanism and can be easily cleaned.

Honda suck.i paid 11200.And don't worth a shit.

i have the same problem with my honda mower ....

I had a problem with this same engine on my power washer. It would run about 15 seconds then backfire and die. would start right back up. Rebuilt the carb as i thought it was not getting gas properly. No change. Valves were way out of adjustment, so I adjusted them. Same result. Then i read on another site several people had said change the spark plug. I did that and it runs like new. Lesson, never overlook the basics. A $3 spark plug would have saved me a lot of time. It is also a good idea to check the valves every season or two an adjust. Doesn't take long and makes the engine run better.