Nice job I liked it. Not a lot of bull crap Love the music soo much better than a lot of that elevator crap some guys put in.

I put one on my charger 3.6l about three years ago. Best investment ever. All metal. Dont have to worry about snapping the oil filter housing tube

Your dogs annoying

Easy money but at least updated versions seem better

Plastic junk

How do you know which hose goes to which nipple on the top of the pump?

Once you reset the memory on a Toyota transmission, there’s a specific calibration drive cycle you must do. It involves driving with throttle at a certain % open throttle position with tran fluid at certain temp (I don’t have specifics in front of me) a few times… then another few drive cycles at a higher open throttle % for a few times. Just “driving” will not calibrate (“relearn”). Your scan tool can probably manually cycle (“test”) all of your solenoids and sensors. There should also be a specific procedure (scan tool will instruct you) to drive and manually click on each gear and test functions and make sure solenoids are doing what they should (ie On, Off, linear voltage/movement, etc.) Not only does this help diagnose, when you do it, you are forcing/cycling the solenoids to perform (unless they are 100% dead)… which has the added benefit of “shaking things up”… which can lead to sticking/clogged solenoids clearing up and working themselves free. I’ve personally been milking an “injured” A750F tranny in my FJ Cruiser for the past 60,000 miles with these methods.

Plain, crimp only butt connectors is not the ideal way to splice wires, it's almost guaranteed to corrode, and lose connectivity. You can make your own, inexpensive crimp and solder butt connection without buying the expensive butt connectors that have self-contained solder, and simultaneously heat shrink to better seal the wire. With a safety razor remove the hard plastic (color coded) sheath of a common butt connector. Once you have just the aluminum, or copper inner sleeve, with a toothpick or thin bit of wire, coat the inner surface with a thin layer of solder flux paste. Also sparingly coat the ends of the wire you are going to splice. Before inserting the ends of the wire into the butt connector sleeve, slide an appropriately sized piece of heat shrink tubing, and slide it far enough so it won't shrink prematurely. Insert the two wire ends into the bare connector sleeve and crimp them. After you crimp them, use a soldering gun and thin soldering wire to also solder them in the sleeve. Give that a few moments to cool, then seal the splice with the heat shrink tube. This give you both compression clamp on the wire ends, as well as solder joint. After you've sealed it w/the heat shrink, it will not corrode nor separate.

Good thing you caught a light on the dash?

This ECT button or switch will make your transmission shift slower and puts a strain on the motor. Its for saving gas ⛽️ but low power !

Do you have a ECT power button ?

I have a Toyota Highlander 2008 with U151, sometimes with going uphill and then go down the rpm and speed increase but not change to the following shift (I expected the tranny shifts to higher gear) and then do it with a little bump. Another situation, when I'm at a stop and I accelerate gently, the transmission shifts fine, but sometimes it shifts from 2nd to 3rd and quickly to 4th in just 2 or 3 seconds, and it gives a noticeable little jerk. Could this procedure fix it?, I've seen that a compensation code is required. Is that the case for this year of vehicle and transmission, or is it only for more recent models? I just had a major repair done on the transmission

All I wanted to know was what size tools I needed. That information is not stated in the video.

Both bad .

It’s a Subaru, what do you expect?

DaMn

Toe thumbs

That’s why in my opinion, adaptive all-wheel-drive that’s on Subaru vehicles. That’s why their parts are so expensive.

Dam Subarus

Excellent! I was dreading getting my older butt underneath of this! AGAIN! Worth watching the video and all went well! Thank you

2006 Pontiac Torrent SUV EPS have found the Issue the electric Motor has 3 Torx Screws remove them to remove the Motor to get at the Rubber Coupler as gets chewed up over time replace with new one only cost me $8.00 and my Steering Clicking and clunking is Gone away.👍 well the Motor cost $875.00 at Dealership and the Rubber Coupler only cost me $8.00, there is no need to replace the Motor.

Is that the same as a camshaft sensor?

This was really useful. Thank you

Thank you for this 😊

Datsun?

Have SKP cheapy ball joints in minivan. About 40k and they are spent. Changing this weekend.

Hi how are you? Can you share what tools are needed for the 2021 rio ex sport 5door to complete the oil change

Fuck the left

I put a new fuel pump on my 2091 Chevrolet blazer ls and put new gas a half of a ank of new gas and is still want start. And i can hear the pump on and i see it's got pressure

The bearing won't make noise till it is loaded with the car weight.

Butter Rich syrup with no butter lol

That's embarrassing

Changing a name is ruining it?

0W20 Ok for all seasons ?

“What’d you do!?” Tommy Boy

I believe i have the same leak right now , where are you guys located ? How much is this job

I heard so much about how difficult of a job this is; it was great to see someone go through it. I’m not ready to tackle it, yet, but I’m closer. I was looking at diesel heaters earlier today, just to avoid a giant job where I’m mainly afraid of losing something or getting stuck and fubar’ing the truck.

You have parts num cv axle

Think it is module mastera that can sell you a remnifactured BCM. They just have to match the numbers up. I ended up buying one then finding out mine wasn't plugged in fully at the back. Had taken it to a Chevy dealer in Portland that charged me to reprogram mine and had messed it up worse than before before I took it to a local electric shop that got ot working by plugging it in properly. Still have BCM codes but I suspect the Chevy dealer partially reprogrammed mine and messed it up. Everything works okay so I also don't worry about the codes.

Getting ready to do a 2014 Subaru. Looks like a job

How much would it cost to replace a part like that

How were you able to properly align the clock spring to the center?Did you have to rotate it left and right a certain amount of times to properly align it before installation?I was told if it's not properly aligned before installation it turns the traction and other lights on

Did u ever find the primary lol

man i wish they wouldnt have changed the brake system in 07 cuz theres absolutely no videos on how to get the clip underneath the booster on a 08 :( Everything else was super helpful though thank you!

I believe putting lithium in the bearings was your biggest mistake, you can,t torque them that way.

If you wanna do it faster then a better cube will probably improve your time my pb is 30 seconds on a expensive cube but 60 seconds for a original rubix cube is really good

So mine started knocking on my way home from southern Ohio and completely shut down. I just don't know if I should try this or if it will be more serious since it stopped running

awesome video buddy! i would like to know...did your xj have acceleration problems, mine at some point the gas pedal would not give gas, it was dangerous, i added a litre of transmission oil, that seems ok, hopefully not slipping, but i have some symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator or the fuel filter, i will get both. let me know how your jeep was acting, appreciate it. and how heavy is the new one in the box the full assembly

Could you have kept going and taken that rear exhaust manifold out W/O dropping the tranny? Just wondering cause I’m about to try to exhaust wrap my front and rear headers/manifolds on my ‘11 DTS. The front is pretty straight forward but the rear looks like it might be a challenge.

Yep my guess was TR7 as well