Thank you! Which model did you get?

@@CHIPLOAD I've got an 604 for cheat 🙂👌

Thanks, i didn't specifically research the color i got two other FLOTT machines that had the same on it. The "original" colors seems to vary over the years...

@@CHIPLOAD Its a weird thing, I was watching a WW2 Documentary and at some point in a production line on a factory it show the same ( or similar) model as the one you worked on, it was a B/W documentary, BUT THE COLOR I IMAGINED WAS EXACTLY THE ONE YOU CHOSE. I can infer it was alot of work for you.

Hi, the maximum usable height without an end mill in the ER collet is 300mm.

@@CHIPLOAD Thanks!! By the way, i will waiting your next videos about tailstock fabrication and how You will fix the tailstock (fixation mechanism)🙂

Still more work to be done but I'm making progress. The first round of electrics and software is taking up a lot of time.

Where exactly? It is rock solid and I hope it stays like that 😅

@@CHIPLOAD @2:40 when you start scraping. I can't tell of the metal is tilting in or what but it looks odd. Great build by the way!!

@@rshotty9039 Ah gotcha, that's my wooden workbench on wheels that's moving a bit 😅

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you! Total length of the bed is 1420mm where 320mm will be taken by the spindle headstock.

Thank you!

Besides the fact that you can never have enough tools, this lathe will be different but that's something for the hopefully soon to come next video 😁

Thanks a lot!

Thank you!

Working on it but it will take some more time...

Thank you!

Hi, ja gibt es in Deutschland, bitte einfach eine E-Mail an die Adresse des Kanals schicken für weitere Details. Es muss aushärten, allerdings kann man es in der Regel nach früher entformen um es besser zu belüften. Einen direkten Vergleich zu Epoxidgranit kann ich nicht ziehen aber UHPC stammt aus der Industrie und ist entsprechend reproduzierbar bei sachgemäßer Anwendung. Viel Erfolg!

Let's say it has notable less shrinkage than regular concrete but it's there. You have to machine the steel surfaces after curing. Once it is cured completely I couldn't measure any more deformation...

@@CHIPLOAD Hello friend, it's me again. I'm trying to find a national supplier for this Nanodur premix, but I'm not succeeding. So, I tried to find out more about this premix, and on their website it says to be a composition of 59% Nanodur cement (which I believe is a good quality cement) and 41% 0.25mm stone powder. With this information, wouldn't it be possible to build a similar premix? Because cement is very cheap and the stone dust was just buying a 60 mesh hand held. What do you think?

another question: What would be this flux that you add? would it be the PCE superplasticizer or Shrinkage reducer or both combined?

I wouldn't try to mix the stuff myself I don't think it is regular cement, where are you located at?

From what I could find out you're right it is PCE as a flux. I don't think there is an additive to prevent shrinkage (the water you add will dry eventually and this is probably the main part about shrinking but just my guess)

Thank you! There will be a couple of more videos until it is fully finished but it takes some time to figure everything out. For the main motor i'm planning something in the range of 2,2kw-4kw...

Thank you! Yeah I think UHPC can outperform epoxy granite and it's an industry standard so easy to work with. It all depends on whether or not you can source it. Have had many people in the US unable to find a supplier.

⁠@@CHIPLOAD are you in Europe? Where did you source your UHPC from?

Thank you very much! I haven't stopped but been working on some prerequisites to be able to continue. Apologies for the delay, stay tuned!

@@CHIPLOAD I'm looking forward to seeing the rest. I am not an expert in metal, I would like to learn enough to do my diy stuff, there must be some method to get flatness and parallelism easier, maybe with a grinder? Why not add a good cnc conversion chapter, especially the electrical part. The music very well chosen, relaxing. After watching many similar videos for now you are favorite. Well done man!

@@CHIPLOAD I'm glad that you haven't stopped! My thoughts was similar as TrisT. Looking forward the CHIPLOAD stuff!

Thank you! It always depends on what you want to achieve but accuracy in the 1/100mm range on a hobby level machine requires at least some precision measuring tools. I'd say the straight edge is probably my favourite, very versatile. Regarding the electronics I plan to make a video on the custom microcontroller part. Stay tuned!

Thank you. We will have to see about the dampening properties but similar projects such as CNC machines have had good results. Stay tuned!

Thank you!

Thanks! Haven't had any trouble with cracks at all but shrinkage caused some warping of the steel bars which I learned can be avoided by shorter anchoring bolts (like half the size I did or something). All the best for your build! 👍

Thank you! No it's not regular concrete but a special mix (no epoxy). It is called "NANODUR Compound 5941".

Thank you! Fly cutter wasn't really an option due to the high spindle rpm.

Yes i think that's doable to get it close(r) but depends on the surface material. I did some experiments and while on steel it took forever to remove any material it worked okay'ish for steel filled epoxy. Depending on your accuracy requirements some final scraping passes might still be required. Cheers!

Thanks for the hint!

Thanks! I measured the bed a couple of times in the last months and there was no movement at all since i aligned the rails. The UHPC is unlikely to deform you just need to give it enough time to cure...

It's called ST-52-3 here which is most likely 1.0570 and mills very nice

Thanks, indeed it's a very nice spindle!

I started off some cold rolled bars, they were not ground or milled flat because you will get some deflection anyways. So the plan was to machine them flat after the casting right from the start. I would do it again this way but from what i've learned and also the suggestions in the comments here is my recipe for the next time: 1) wooden mold is okay 2) put it on a as flat as possible base not on a wooden workbench as it's a lot of weight 3) shorten the screws i used to anchor the steel parts to half length. this is important as shrinkage (it's not much but it is there) in the concrete will not pull as much on them. 4) machine the final cast base but also spend more time to fine adjust the CNC. 5) accept that all of this is sort of a compromise between money spent, machine size availability, etc. - hope it helps! all the best.

@@CHIPLOAD Yes, very helpful. Thanks!

I've been asked this many times too and it seems to be really hard to find a source in the states. If i couldn't source it i would probably revert to an epoxy granite mix instead of using concrete that's not made for this purpose (at least many machines have been build this way successfully). Besides the low shrinkage of UHPC the more important factor to take into consideration is the increased tensile strength which is close to aluminium if mixed and applied correctly. Good luck with your search!

@@CHIPLOAD Thanks. I was directing this question to my stateside compatriots who I am sure are also following along your build. The problem with epoxy granite mix is that I cannot find a commercially available (to the average person) product and I do not trust those "homemade recipes" I have come across on web searches, because none have undergone any kind of standardized testing. An open source epoxy granite recipe that has been tested and shown to be repeatable would be ideal, but I have not found such an animal.

@@paulprobusjr.7597 I got a few people from the states messaging me on instagram and said they will let me know once they find a source, so if you want you can drop me an E-Mail (to the channel's E-Mail address) or DM me on IG and i will let you know once someone got a source.

@@CHIPLOAD Will do, thanks!👍

Polycarboxylate ether (PCE) from what the manual reads.

@@CHIPLOAD thank you