Thank you.

First, let me thank you for writing your kind words. When you wrote about an OM-1 that had been subjected to muddy water, I could visualize it because I've seen something similar before: About 40 years ago, a friend's brought me his water damaged OM-2. Back then, very few camera repair shops would touch a water-damaged camera and fewer would guarantee their work. We took the baseplate off the bottom of the camera and there was both silt and rust everywhere. Eventually, he was forced to replace the camera though I think he was able to salvage the lens. If you are hoping to get this OM-1 working properly again, I think you have your work cut out for you! I don't mean to discourage; I want to be honest. Everything will need to be meticulously disassembled, examined, cleaned, dried and lubricated. And then you'll have to get it back together. I can tell you without question that I couldn't do it. I don't know if an ultrasonic cleaner would help; it certainly does with corroded electronics. If you're not experienced with camera CLA, this is probably not the best project to begin your journey with. What I did with one of my OM-1's winding mechanism would be child's play compared to repairing a water damaged OM-1. Of course you'll need the right tools and that's much more than just spanner wrenches and JIS screw drivers. Repairing the Electronic flash (hopefully, it's an original Olympus flash) will probably be the easiest project. I can't even imagine what the lens repair will look like. My expertise does not lie in camera repair. I would consider myself an early beginner. However, there are Masters on KZbin well worth subscribing to. I subscribe to @FilmCamera_Vlog and @FixOldCameras and I would recommend that you check them out. You will absolutely need exploded diagrams and manuals. If you e-mail me (check for information about my channel, it's there somewhere) I will send you what I've got on the OM-1 or you can try your luck with Google. I wish you best of luck, and thank you so much for watching my videos and sharing your story.

That’s a very good idea. If I were doing that today I would probably do that or see if there was a way to install an M.2 SATA SSD.

Please clarify.

The Pen EE3 is a completely different class of camera than the Pentax MX or Nikon FA. And it’s not for everyone. I own a Pen EES2 and I never enjoyed using it because I didn’t care for the programmed full auto, and hated being told by the camera “there’s not enough light, you MAY NOT take this picture”. On the other hand, my mother loved that feature. I think choosing a camera, particularly a film camera, is a matter of personal taste, skill level and what the camera will be called upon to do. It’s not an appliance where one-size-fits-all.

@ Even professionals like simple small cameras. I always used Instamatic 126 and 110 cameras, and enjoyed them. There is a role for small and pocketable so I don't get confused about "classes" of camera. Most pros always have multiple cameras, each used for different purposes I think the Olympus Pen series, while suited to certain people was frustrating to a lot of us because its build quality and lovely lens gives expectations of being better. Since most photographs are better in horizontal mode and the camera needs to be shot rotated, Maitani should have made it easier to use in that orientation, with a better positioning of the shutter button, or a second shutter button. Instead he just designed a conventional layout with zero thought about how users actually used the camera. He was not a perfect designer. They were never a common camera. It was rare to see people using them back then, yet sales figures were relatively high, so it makes me think that people would buy them thinking they would halve their film costs, but then not use them much. I suspect there was always a significant portion who, like me and my friend, simply did not like the vertical format. It is really only people who mostly shoot portraits that will like it.

I think the iPhone generation of photographers would disagree that most photographs are better in horizontal mode. I see them shooting in portrait (vertical) mode for stills and video. I’m trying to wrap my brain around that. It may just be a matter of personal taste.

Thank you! Season’s greetings from Mr. Brown’s Basement.

This is a synchronous motor. The motor’s speed is determined by the AC line frequency (60Hz). You cannot change the speed directly. If you were to use variac or resistor you would only reduce the torque. The only other way to reduce the speed is by using two pulleys of unequal sizes and a belt between them.

What I’m experiencing now appears to be built-in video failure, and I’m not sure why yet. I am getting composite video but not built-in monitor video. I don’t think the monitor is the problem. Have you checked your composite video output? The composite and built-in monitor video signals diverge at one chip on the board, I think it’s a 74LS244. It will be a pain to remove because it’s not socketed, but it’s not a difficult chip to obtain. I would only be concerned if the main CRT controller had failed. I think those are going to be extremely scarce chips.

@@Mr.BrownsBasement I've not tried composite video yet (don't have anything that will accept composite at the moment). Will do that!

Do let me know please. Perhaps the same fault exists on both our machines. I saw a video of another Hyperion with exactly the same symptoms as mine: a vertically compressed and bright image with no apparent sync, nothing readable on the screen. I reached out to the KZbinr to find out if he ever diagnosed the problem or got it fixed. I received no reply.

@@Mr.BrownsBasement FYI, I sent you an email.

@@spishco Thanks, just got it. Responded!

Even if the bias is way off it shouldn’t burn the output transistors’ emitter resistors. More likely the receiver was well used with poor ventilation and they burned gradually. Definitely replace the resistors, upsize wattage if they’ll fit and keep them far away from printed circuit board.

@ thank you very much

@ upon further inspection, it was a diode that burned. It also burned the nearby resistors, but the diode was the source of the heat.

My pleasure.

That’s interesting. Here’s the link to the service manual if you don’t already have it: elektrotanya.com/realistic_sta-78_sm.pdf/download.html#dl. There are 6 diodes that I see (per channel) of the amplifier board, plus a pair of diodes (per channel) used for temperature compensation. I’d be curious which one(s) failed! If the Zener diode(s) D601 and/or D602 failed, that would point to a fault in the power supply, probably failing filter caps. There are some diodes to prevent signal overload, and a couple that appear to be in the overload/shutdown circuit. If I were you, I’d replace the diodes and then grab a voltmeter and just verify the voltages are ±10% with those in the service manual. Adjust the bias balance according to the service manual. I was able to get mine to almost zero.

The Pen EE’s are cool little cameras. “Technology Connections” (KZbin channel) recently did a great video on how they work. Check it out. I have a newer version, the Pen EES2. They make taking pictures effortless. It’s very gratifying to hear that people are watching and enjoying my videos. Thank you for taking the time to comment.

@Mr.BrownsBasement Yes I saw part of that video, I just rewatched the last part I missed and left a comment. I love how simple the design is but equally how intricate the mechanical workings are. The shutter on my EL version is a little sticky, it looks like the mechanism could do with a clean. My older EE is over 60 years old and works flawlessly, I wonder how many modern-day electronic cameras will still be working in 60 years time?🤔😳

Excellent point. But since most modern photographic equipment depends on proprietary electronics which will be long out of production, I expect the vast majority will be virtually impossible maintain and use, essentially E-waste of the future. Your Pen EE’s are basically clockwork. With steady hands and fine tools they will be serviceable for a very long time into the future. One issue with the Pen EE’s is availability of Selenium photovoltaic cells - they slowly become inactive which makes the metering system inaccurate. I’m sure a workaround can be developed using Silicon cells instead.

@Mr.BrownsBasement That's it, most consumer electronics end up as e-waste quicker than we realise, I've lost count of the number of computer parts, motherboards, drives, RAM chips, PSU's, monitors etc that have failed after less than 5-10 years and the design is just not as durable as these old cameras that were built and engineered to last well beyond their expected life. As an example I picked up an old Sony ccd Video 8 AF v100e camcorder, it came in an aluminium case for £10 and to be honest I just wanted the case. The camera is a Pro level premium brand bit of kit from the late 1980s so just over 30 years old...You'd think there would be a good chance it would still work? Not a chance, it powers up, the CCD picks up some kind of image, there is clearly an issue, so I thought maybe I could use the tape transport section to at least play some of my old 8mm home video tapes, surely that part still works? It snaps tapes, eats them up and eventually the tape system just stopped working altogether, there is a funny 'electrical' smell when it's powered up... I'm quite good with electronics and understand how to swap out components and solder in new, surely it's repairable I assume. However it seems these multi level PCB's were designed so that they were never going to be serviceable, plus the components they used were cheap and fail at an alarming rate, all the electrolytic capacitors have failed and leaked all over the boards, it's scrap basically!

Thank you for your kind words. I’m so glad you got something out of my video! Great question. Surprisingly, the focal length of a “standard lens” is related to the length of the diagonal of the negative (or sensor). (See: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normal_lens#:~:text=For%20still%20photography%2C%20a%20lens,view%20is%20about%2053°)

Really? They’re not museum artifacts or objets d'art. They’re cameras meant to be used. I promise to keep my finger prints off the optics!

So glad you liked it. Viva Toronto!

Thank you for taking the time to write kind words. Yes, the Pens are a joy to use! I’m surprised you were able to find two Pen S’s before a Pen W. I had my Pen W first, and at the time had never heard of the Pen S. Of course that was long before the Internet changed everything. At the risk of making Pens more scarce, I thought (and hoped) people might be interested in learning about these sweet, underrated little cameras. It’s also great to hear that you’re using these cameras rather than, as some would, keeping them locked away in a display case. Thank you again for sharing your experience with your Olympus Pens.

Underrated indeed! And as for the Pen W… after a famous Japanese photographer used one to make photographs in a war site, their prices went sky high and are impossible to buy now.

@@marlonsouza9224 I knew that about 21,000 were made but I didn't realize they were so difficult to obtain. Good to know!

You’re completely correct about these cameras needing CLA. But it’s also the 70s cameras (OM’s) as well. I tried my hand at cleaning & lubricating an OM winding mechanism (you can watch my video) and it’s not for the faint of heart. I would probably have to send all my cameras to have a far more skilled person do it. In terms of resolution, I don’t think it’s quite that straightforward. I have tried making enlargements up to 11 x 14 from half frame negatives. The results are disappointing unless you like a lot of grain. In terms of raw sharpness & acuity, my iPhone does better and it’s only 12MP.

There's no "120mm" film. It's 120 format.

First, let me thank you for sharing your personal experiences with your Olympus Pens. I can completely understand how they bring back great memories. I started with Olympus products until the mid-70s. I remember the days when you could buy a roll of Kodak B&W film at K-Mart for $1 a roll (which was all I could afford) or bulk film for about half that price. My first Olympuses were a black Pen FT (with 42mm f/1.2) and a chrome Pen F (with 38mm f/2.8). Between my job as a high school yearbook photographer, and taking fun pictures over the summer, I literally wore out my Pen F. Even then, repair parts for Pen F’s were getting scarce. I spent countless hours in the darkroom at school developing and printing pictures. Yes indeed, good memories.

Thank you for the kind words of appreciation. I’m so glad you enjoyed it!

Your comment piqued my curiosity so I looked up your camera on John Foster’s website (www.biofos.com/coll/subcoll/folder.html). What an interesting, unusual and rare camera you have! It’s literally been decades since I’ve shot 120 film (I think it was a Graflex with a 120-back) and that setup was the antithesis of anything pocketable. I looked up the Pentax 17 you mentioned, and yes it looks like a small-run niche copy of the original Pen S. I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s what it was modeled after. I’m willing to bet that the Pentax will soon become rare but in 60 years or so no one will be making videos meant to recognize its significance. I would like to use my Pens again, but they are all in dire need of a CLA, particularly the Pen W that I bought in non-functional condition and haven’t yet had a chance to use.

That’s very interesting and it’s something I didn’t know. “Four Sprocket” seems to be such an odd way to describe a film format rather than the frame size, but the industry must have had their reasons.

Thank you! I had only re-written the script 3 or 4 times…

You’re very welcome 😊 ! I would like to pinpoint the source of the crackling noise. Does it happen on only PLAY, on PLAY, FAST FORWARD, and REWIND? Does it happen with and without a tape? Does it happen when the radio function is being used? Does the volume control change the volume or frequency of the crackling noise?

@@Mr.BrownsBasement I’m disassembled now and noise coming from DC 3-phase motor. Noise like tractor working.

Check for a bad filter capacitor across the motor. My first guess is that motor noise may not be suppressed. Also, sometimes motor noise becomes audible when the batteries are low. Are you using fresh batteries?

Thank you for your kind comment. 😊

Thank you for commenting. I've read that Hyperion computers had a number of problem areas, with flaky disk floppy drives being near or at the top of the list. I'm wondering if you know anything about a weird video problem. The picture width is normal but is about ⅔ the correct height. The video is not readable and it looks like the linearity is way off. Brightness is way down too. It looked like the printed circuit board traces to the 4-pin video connector were not making contact with the connector because I could wiggle it and I would intermittently get a picture. I ran 4-bodge wires to the connector from the 74LS244 and that hasn't really helped. Does this sound familiar? Thanks…

You're right about the noise caused by some power supplies. Broadcast band (AM) radio reception becomes impossible. I haven't tested these power supplies to see how noisy they are. Yet.

Thank you for the suggestion. A thermal camera and a better solder sucker gun are both on my wish list. The last thermal camera I was looking at was about $400 USD. Sadly, it’s not on the shopping list for the near future. Until then I’m going to have to rely on more primitive methods (e.g., alcohol evaporation). But you’re 100% right, a thermal camera will identify a shorted component quickly every time.

@@Mr.BrownsBasement Leave the machine running for a while. Place your fingertip against the memory circuits. With a little luck you can diagnose which one it is (cold or hot compared to the others)

@RandomerFellow Fortunately, there were no shorts on this board. With a board of this vintage, I would be more concerned about a capacitor shorted rather than a chip shorted as dead tantalums are almost routine. At 1.25v, a shorted tantalum will dissipate a watt or more. If it isn’t turning brown or beginning to stink it will eventually pop and take itself out of the circuit. I want to get it before it pops or starts spitting.

@@Mr.BrownsBasement Not sure if you're aware but FLiR makes a smartphone connected camera. New, they go for about $200 but after a cursory ebay search I saw they were going for about $150. Still expensive but it might be more palatable.

Thank you for the information. No, I wasn’t aware of that. But I was hoping to get a premium quality infrared camera so it would be both the first and last camera I would have to buy. I wouldn’t mind a feature like HDMI out as it would make it easier when I making videos. At this point, I’m saving my pennies for a good camera but I’m not there yet.

Did I confuse my printed circuits, progressive conservatives, or politically correct president’s choice personal computers? These things happen.

Thanks for your comment love, @@Mr.BrownsBasement But no, @Mr.BrownsBasement , I mean that since you said "PCs and portable PCs," that didn't make sense, because portable PCs *ARE* PCs. It's like saying "PCs and PCs."

I guess I was trying to distinguish between the 1st IBM PC compatible,(MPC 1600, June 1982) and the 1st portable IBM PC compatible (Hyperion, January 1983). The first portable computer (not a IBM 5150 compatible) may have been the Epson HX20 (July 1982) which ran a proprietary operating system, had a built-in LCD display, thermal printer and microcassette drive, and wouldn’t crush you if you put it in your lap.

@@Mr.BrownsBasement: Then in a case like that, the word "other" is your friend.

While working on the next Hyperion video, the monitor developed a new fault. Now all my “best friend” words have only 4 letters.

I never noticed that before! I think the illusion is caused by the lighting colour in the room (2700K at the time) contrasting with the portrait monitor's white phosphor colour (probably >5000K). There were colour portrait monitors made for the Mac in the 1990s. Radius made one but Apple did not.

Thanks for the info on the switching power supply. Tantalum’s as squibs? 😂

You’re right. Butchered. But worth trying to repair anyway.

That’s very kind of you to lend your expertise. There is something strange about the sweep: The lines look too far apart. In the video (part 5) I had adjusted brightness and contrast for the best picture. Back to the vertical oscillator! I do have to measure the AGC though. There are no adjustments for it, so if it’s way off something else is going on. There are very few electrolytics in this set: I think there is only one which is not for supply rail decoupling. That one is in the Ratio Detector. All the potentiometers seem to be alright. The resistance elements are not open and there are no dead spots. But it is possible that I messed up a decimal point and installed the wrong size capacitor somewhere. It happens! That is something that I’m going to have to check very carefully. But I’m also going to go back and start looking at the capacitors I did not check, i.e., the mica capacitors. I think there’s more than one thing going on. I’ll report back to you once I’ve had a chance to do some tracing & measuring. Thanks again…!

I’m familiar with heater-cathode shorts but have never - at least not that I’m aware of- encountered a partially shorted heater. But your suggestion is a good one. I’m out of town at this moment but when I get back I’ll run the heater at 6.3v and watch the current. Hopefully, 0.6A ±10% as it should be. I’ll let you know what I find. If it is partially shorted then I suppose I could partially shunt it with a resistor to reduce the current through it though that would reduce the brightness too. A CRT issue like this would be a real bummer considering all the work done so far (see part 2, part 3, part 4 and part 5). If I had known it was going to be such a time & money pit I would probably have taken a pass on this set.

@@Mr.BrownsBasement its very common overehere (Europe)... i always encounter that fault on the aw 43-80 or aw 53-80 picture tubes (european) so i guess american/canadian tubes are built similarly. They usually work just fine if you power them with a separate transformer with a voltage of your choice while eyeballing the brightness of the glow. a 5v powerbrick should do the trick...of course the emission will be affected, its a matter of playing with the voltage until you get a satisfactory result.....i would choose a transformer and not a SMPS, because SMPS may introduce interference on the tv, it could leak to the cathode and mess up the picture.. resistor would also work but beware, if that tv is a series string set and the heater is shorted to itself , the tube will not glow at all during operation of the set because of the high current draw, in that case you MUST use a transformer or youll grow white hairs trying to play with resistors... if the set has a transformer for the filaments then its easy, because it always gets 6.3v regardless of the current draw, thats why they glow so bright when theyre shorted... (sorry for my poor English).. in this hobby money is not very important i think, its about the satisfaction we get when we complete a step so dont give up on the tv, it looks really cool, would love to have it on my collection and BW crts are very easy to adapt, i have a british tv with a broken 70º crt with magnetic focus, unobtainable and i retrofitted a 90º tube with electrostatic focus, you cant even tell...mechanical part was easy and wiring was easy too. But i wouldnt worry, i have some tvs with that problem and they work fine, of course i only plug them once in a while to watch a movie and thats it, theyre mostly display pieces

I just put the CRT on the bench power supply set to 6.3 V. After settling, the filament is pulling 0.51A. That’s a little bit low (15%) but not indicative of a partially shorted filament. At least I ducked that bullet!

Thanks. 😊 This set’s sucking the life out of me!

Thank you for your kind words. The tinted plastic "visor" clips into slots in the white case by the springiness of the visor. Plus, the left and right ends of the visor are shaped like hooks and want to stay captive in those slots. You must release the hooks by gently flexing the hooked ends and they will slip out of the slots. Be careful when cleaning; it's a soft plastic. If the plastic is scratched you will need a very fine plastic polish to restore it.

My apologies for the delayed response. For some reason KZbin flagged your comment as inappropriate. When I approved it, it disappeared from Google Studio. I watched your video. Please find my e-mail in the channel info or description. Shoot me an e-mail and I can send you photos from my Verbena.

Thank you so much for this information! My apologies for the delayed response. For some reason KZbin flagged your comment as inappropriate. When I approved it, it disappeared from Google Studio and I couldn't reply. Yes, I went to eBay thanks to your suggestion and I ordered 10 pieces.

It’s been a challenge … and 4 videos so far in this TV. I should be able to finish it off in one more video unless it reveals additional issues. Thanks for the kind words.

Thank you for the kind words. I can't wait to get a decent picture on it! Greetings from Ontario, CANADA!

@@Mr.BrownsBasement Liverpudlians have great respect for Canadians.

@WOFFY-qc9te I am humbled. 🙏🏾

In this case, I think the smoke was mine. 😤 My annoying neighbour can be very annoying. And I still don't have my Tube Tester back from the last video! 😤

This toy was my first experience with Andy Gard. I don’t think they had a big presence here in Canada. I hope you enjoyed the video!

@@Mr.BrownsBasement Andy Gard actually did have a pretty strong presence in Canada! However, they went by Carzal Canada instead. In fact, Andy Gard actually originated in Canada but when came over here, in the US of A, it became Andy Gard.

@captaincobratgaming718 Carzal sounds familiar!

@@Mr.BrownsBasement If your interested in anything about Andy Gard, I have a bunch of there toys and even some catalogs.

@captaincobratgaming718 I’m always interested in learning new things. Do you have a KZbin channel?

Thank you. Approximately where are you located?

@@Mr.BrownsBasement Colorado.

@DaveW-kb3nd Oh my, that’s a little far away!

I'm so glad you liked it! 😊

Thank you 🙏🏾 😊

Yes, people really do this. They are not satisfied with just making their radio or TV look authentic on the outside outside but it also must look authentic on the inside too. Some of them also assert that what they do is _restoration_ while everyone else only does _repair_. 🤷🏽‍♂️ There's no milage to be gained by arguing with them, but I think I made I made the point that stuffing capacitors is usually a waste of time. Of course, it's their time to waste…

A failed coil is possible but rare. A more likely failure is a marginal solder joint on one leg. Have you checked it for continuity? I don’t have the schematic with me (I’m out of town at this moment) but it’s odd that your collector voltage is less than the base voltage. I’d still suspect a bad transistor before an open coil. Let me know how it turns out.

@@Mr.BrownsBasement I agree with you on this. I had a similar issue and racked my brain over it, only to find it its what you were stating, a marginal solder on all of the legs. If the commenter would look up "NES capacitor values" he should be able find the values for the capacitors and a diagram that shows continuity test points to ensure the re installation is good. If any the legs don't test 1 ohm or less, need to check the legs where those big pins go through the mother board with the power AV module uninstalled. I had to apply some additional solder in order to get good continuity. At first it was just the audio and video legs. In my attempt to re flow the solder on the "top" of the motherboard, I actually caused the solder to run downward into the power module inadvertently removing contact from the pins and the return power to the power module to activate the transistor.

@MavHunter20XX A marginal solder joint may be fine for many years until thermal expansion or the device being knocked just the right way breaks the connection. The joint often looks ok but it isn’t. For someone who has never experienced it, it can be very hard to imagine that this can happen. I truly understand the frustration when you try your best to fix one thing but inadvertently mess up something else. Been there, done that!

Check the information in About This Channel.

Generally speaking, contact e-mail for KZbin creators is usually found in About This Channel. Some creators do not make this information available; I do. At least for now.

I did do some research on the set before buying it. I did quite a bit of research before making the videos. But would not consider myself an expert on the 3240. Is there anything important I missed?

Absolutely not, but I'm about to open one up and tinker around but a little apprehensive!

I.mean ro say that your video is very helpful to give me a sense of what I'm getting into.

@SquidLemon Best of luck but I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised how easy it will be. Essentially a regular cube-shaped chassis & CRT in a spherical package. Give yourself lots of work space and time. Use plenty of light so you can’t miss anything. Work with the easily scratched items on a soft pad. Don’t hesitate to reach out with questions. Once the TV is open, just be careful around the CRT’s neck (easy to break) and if the TV is/was recently on, beware of high voltage at the CRT’s final anode.

I forgot to mention earlier: some of the plastic pieces may be brittle; be gentle and take your time!

Yes, true. Thank you for the clarification. 😊

I have a queue of repair projects that will probably take years to complete. But just wondering, where are you located?

Gotcha. You def seem to know what to do ro get these working properly again. I am in New Hampshire

I think I’m a little too far. I’m in Ontario, Canada.