Yes, that is 24 -gauge pre-finished aluminum that was fabricated in a local metal shop.

@@LGSquared Thank you. Looks amazing!

Thanks for the question! What you are saying is true when you attach a continuous flat cladding (panel-like) without a gap between the back of that cladding and the furring strips, AND there are no ventilation channels created between ends of horizontal strips. In this case, and in many cases with vertical cladding, there is an attachment "system" that includes clips that maintain at least 1/4" gap between the back of the cladding and the strips. In addition, the amount of water in the rain screen gap is almost always from a vapor source, not a bulk water source. If bulk water gets into the rain screen gap, there are bigger problems (an unintended and unacceptable leak) than moisture on the furring strips, which will dry. In the case of open-joint cladding, installing furring strips at 45 degrees is a great way to direct penetrating bulk water out of the gap. Make sense?

@@LGSquaredyes. Same as when insulating a roof I guess when the board standing on edge at the end of the eve can be a possible dam. If you’re getting that much water in behind the cladding or roofing material there are other bigger problems. Thanks

Thanks, Miguel. The need to let it out does not exist if you have an effective way to keep it out. As a belt-and-suspenders approach, we provide both methods of moisture control, keep it out and let it out

Yep. Bunch’a dams installed. Love when guys that don’t know wtf they’re doing post video on KZbin pretending to experts.

It won't work as well. You could sheet it AND do the strips, but the strips serve a purpose. The are a rain screen that promotes drying behind the siding. A flat layer of sheathing won't provide a channel for liquid water to move through. It also won't provide a path for air to flow though and remove water vapor.

Hello, Coleen. Great question. The simple answer is that the rigid mineral/stone wool products are made dense enough to prevent convective loops that cause a reduction in thermal resistance, and it be in direct contact with the continuous air & vapor control layer. VERY loose (density) insulation and poorly installed cavity insulation led to the focus on six-sided encapsulation. There is additional research regarding "Wind Washing" with exterior insulations in vented rainscreen cladding assemblies done by RDH (John Straube). Here is a link to the report in case you, or another reader, is interested. www.rockwool.com/syssiteassets/o2-rockwool/documentation/research/white-paper/wind-washing-of-air-permeable-insulation-2018---white-paper.pdf?f=20201024215341 More published info from Building Science Corp (Joe Lstiburek) touches on the science of insulation and best installation practices that may add to my answer to your question. Here is the link to that. buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/installation-of-cavity-insulation Let me know if I have not answered your question, or if you have additional questions.

@@LGSquared ..after reading the Wind Washing study, I am convinced more than ever, that a WRB be placed over exterior Rockwool and sealed properly. In fact, It would probably be best if there was solid Zip sheathing used. Certainly no downside except for cost. It seems that cold will otherwise make its way behind or through it under almost all installations. I did look up the density of Rockwool since density was focal in the study. I can see why in Matt Risnger's Vancouver BC Canada series, the builders used Siga?? wrap over exterior Rockwool - they never left it uncovered even when there was exterior clading used.

David, we used self-drilling sheet rock screws and followed the screw pattern prescribed by the structural engineer. Gypsum sheathing is nowhere near as structural as wood sheathing, but it does provide some shear strength screws are in placed very close together. I believe they were as close as 2" on center in some areas.

Yes, and no. The tanks give us the opportunity to have a reserve of water in the event that the spring may be dry for a period of time. In the case of this spring, it has yet to be dry, but there are cases where the reserve ensures a source.

Hey I believe it is Rotoplas, he mentions in an earlier video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnPCY4aYa6mbqbcfeature=shared&t=229

and what % of the total home construction cost is that?

@@rsmith02what % is it of the gdp of Istanbul? Bc that’s just as relevant

The owners wanted to store as much water as they could, and instead of several small tanks, we chose to go with fewer large tanks. If there was budget for it, we would have doubled the storage. As it is, the project has 3 redundant water systems. The primary system is fed through the hydraulic pump that fills tanks at an elevation above the house to provide 60 psi. The first redundant system is a direct feed from the spring, at 40 psi. The second redundant system is a new well that feeds the tanks on the hill. The third and final redundant system would be the well with a direct feed to a pressure tank in the barn that feeds all buildings.

No one would, SR, which is why this system was designed and installed to dump the incoming outside air in to the encapsulated area where the filtered return side of the air handler is left open to pull that fresh air in to filter it, condition it and THEN distribute it throughout the house. So, it is conditioned and filtered BEFORE it ever enters the part of the house where the people are. I cover this in the video, but let us know if you have any other questions or comments. Thank you

@Chris at LG Squared Then why do I have a cold breeze running through my Leeds home? It's coming out of the vents, including the intake vent. It feels like a window has been left open.

@@sr2291 You are not the first person to ask this question, and it's a big part of why we've come up with the appoach that I explain above. We do the same with make-up air so that it's not dumping fresh air directly on to the occupants, or through the conditioned spaces, as you explain. There is likely a way to correct this with your house, without comprimising performance (fresh air delivery) and/or the certification. The possible modifications may also improve energy performance of the fresh air system, and reduce the heating / cooling loads slightly. Overall, providing better comfort and performance.

@@sr2291 I don't believe fresh air systems (ERV, HRV, etc.) should EVER dump air directly in to occupiable spaces. The point of much of the programs and goals of high performance is COMFORT, along with health, and THIS strategy is only providing the fresh air, and ignores comfort.

@@LGSquared Thank you for your replies. I will have a professional look at my system.

Thanks for the question, Mark. We typically use 1 - 2 screws with an insulation washer on each through the insulation to hold it in place until we backfill. The soil does all the work, but the screws help until its placed. If we were to have an above grade concrete wall, the same screws we use to secure the insulation to metal or wood framing is used to secure it to concrete. When doing so, we need to pre-drill for every screw. There's no need to go overkill on the screws ( e.g. Tap-Con, etc. ). We use #14 coated roofing screws from Triangle Fastener (here's the link: trianglefastener.com/content/files/TFC/MASTER%20DOCUMENT%20PDF%20FILES/25%20concealor%20dp1%20pancake%20head%20screws.pdf )

@@ducoh2093 I have no idea how standard construction would do it. I wanted a tarp roof to keep my structure as a temporary shelter in case Guvmint got fascist on me. So I have a tarp OVER my rafters - actually willow trees - and the two layers of rock wool - and then another tarp over that. Then when it rained - the rock wool soaked up the water through the tarp - so I put all these clip things attached to the tarp underneath on the inside - so I didn't break through the tarp. Then what? I bought a pool liner - synthetic rubber - to cover on top again - and put a third tarp over that. I used poly-vinyl tarps... At first I wanted my roof to be both breathable AND insulated (hence the rockwool and tarps). The synthetic rubber cut off the breathable part of the roof - and also cut off the Schumann resonance quite a bit. hmmm. Yeah I'm a primitivist.

​Bro, stop being so paranoid. Build the roof right. F the gubmnint you do you, and do not worry about anything you have no control over. Build a little reinforced cement space under your pad. If crazy shite happens you could go down there knowing you did the best you could and relax while you burn a joint. 🎉

Was looking for this exact comment. I'd avoid horizontal strips, especially at the window bays. You've made a dam with each one and at the window it will serve as an air dam, so you won't get great airflow through those sections.

Got on the comment section to mention the same thing. From what I can see the horizontal furring strips are insane. Unless he can explain it which I don’t see how he can that horizontals cannot be wood but rather the hard mesh plastic furring strips that allow the water to flow through it.

Exactly what I just posted before reading all these comments.

@@tsaipod Like Minds.

Thank you! We here y'all. Demand and regulations (among other things ;-)) for durability, health, comfort, etc. need to catch up with bling, beauty and brains ("smart home") in order for us all to be able to build like this. Many see the value, like you.

@@LGSquared I definitely see the value after visiting a friend who is having a home built by a production builder👎👎👎! He is a custom home builder, and has had to go behind on his own time and money to fix things that have been done wrong!👊🏽🙏🏽 I pray that I be able to have my home built by YOU!

Good morning, Thomas, check out this video about how we built the overhang withOUT penetrating the building enclosure. If these are not the details you're asking about, please let me know! kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4Xahaihm8lgbLc