230V pumps do not have a neutral leg. For 115v pumps, the white wires shown in this video represent the neutrals

@ I have a 220 V pump but I also need to pull 110 V on one of the 110 V legs for a water softener. My question is can I just use a hot and neutral off of my 10/3 to make this happen or do I need to install some kind of subpanel or do I have to run a separate circuit?

You are very welcome! It’s always nice to get that positive feedback!

Tough to say if another contractor’s price is high. I know, for us, we generally don’t do just portions of an install because it muddies the water a bit (no pun intended) if something goes wrong… you’ll say it’s their fault, and they’ll say it’s your fault. When we do a job, we want to be in control of all aspects of the install so that we know it’s being done by the book and if something goes wrong we fix it right away. As for what we charge, it really depends on the complexity of the system and the size of the system… usually anything underground is going to start at $5k for a small, basic system with minimal drainage, but most of our systems have 300’-400’ of drainage, thorough indoor filtration, and large 5500 gal concrete tanks, and those systems usually cost $24-26k installed/turnkey

@ fair answer thank you!

With our setup, you don’t have to purchase a pressure tank - you just reuse the existing well pump’s pressure tank. We are going to release a more in-depth how to install video on this system in the next month, but we haven’t made any changes. The DAB pumps are super expensive, and we have them if people want to go down that road, but we try to offer the solution that requires the least amount of work for the least amount of money

Does your unit have a countdown clock, counting down from 365? If so, and if the clock reads “0”, the unit is telling you that it’s been a year and you need to replace your UV lamp and reset the countdown clock. We sell D4 lamps on our website: www.rainbrothers.com . If your D4 ballast/control board simply has a picture of the UV system and some LED lights, then find which LED light is red and refer to Viqua D4 owner’s manual to see what the issue could be. It’s most likely a bad lamp but without seeing your control board, it’s hard to say for sure

Generally, a good quality well pump is at least $700, and the PumpSaver is a little under $300. If your well pump only cost $300, then you likely got it from a big box hardware store and it will not last long, especially without a PumpSaver if your well occasionally or regularly runs dry. I know that sounds like BS but it’s true - the quality well pump manufacturers (Myers, Franklin, Goulds, Grundfos, Sta-Rite, Pentair) outlast big box brands by a factor of 2-3x. When you’re talking about having to pull a pump from a well casing, you want to limit the number of times you do that as much as possible, in my experience. I’ve seen a lot of pumps go bad in the 20 years I’ve been working in the field, and 90% of them are cheap pumps. On the flip side, I’ve put in a lot of quality pumps and never have to service them again

@rainbrothers cheapest i can find is 315 mine just went out debating a timer sprinkler instead as dont use as much watter so I can control it instead letting it run dry

Great question! This particular setup is not for drinking water. This is an irrigation system harvested from a large barn with a pump that supplies a direct feed to a frost free yard hydrant

Yes - absolutely! If you click the link in the description, you can choose a 3x4 option

Unfortunately 10-20 gallons per day is not enough to sustain a household. It’s probably not worth it to try to use that well, and you’d be better off harvesting rainwater and using hauled water to supplement. Since you have the well infrastructure already, you could certainly add it to the tank easily, but if the water quality of the well is poor, it would be more of a hassle than it’s worth because well water typically is filtered differently than rainwater

There is a power surge and torque when the motor first turns, but I can’t say that I’ve ever heard a pump get quieter as it continued to run. Are you listening to the pump down in your well? You may be hearing that start up torque on your water line or a twisting of a torque arrestor, but that would only last a second. It could be that the impellers or drive shaft are starting to seize up a bit and get looser as the motor turns. Unfortunately I’ve not come across that symptom before so can’t say for certain without hearing the sound. May want to put a clamp meter on the cable coming out of your well to see if the amp draw on your pump motor is within spec (if you know the make and model of your pump, you can look up what the startup amperage is and what the running amperage is… if you’re showing a higher than spec number, your motor is doing too much work and it may be time to replace your motor).

@@rainbrothers thank you for the response! It's a brand new pump. Don't think there is a torque arrestor installed either. It's that first 2 or 3 seconds when it kicks on where it's a little louder than the rest of the running time (the pump maybe takes a minute total to fill the bladder tank). I hear it in the basement where the bladder tank and pressure switch are located.

@ Are you sure the noise is coming from your pump? If you have a submersible pump in a well, then you wouldn’t be hearing that. What you may be hearing is the initial pulse or surge of water coming into the house. You might also be hearing the click of the pressure switch or, if you have a new pressure tank, perhaps you heard the initial pop of the bladder inside the tank (but that only happens once). Tough to say, but there are several possible explanations

@@rainbrothers thank you for the responses. It is a new bladder tank but that doesn't seem to make any noise at all. It doesn't sound like water flow to me. It could be the pipes buzzing/ vibrating against joist framing? You can feel the vibration on the pvc pipe coming into the house when you touch it. The click of the switch can be heard as well. Im not sure whats going on. Just mainly curious if you should hear anything at all really when those pumps are running other than the click of the switch.

@@TylerSavick-z7j I would try securing the piping better with some straps/pipe hangers so limit vibrating. You can definitely feel vibration if the pipe is loose, and it can cause water hammering (though that typically happens when the pump shuts off, not when it starts up). Sorry I couldn’t be of more assistance

Wow that’s very cool - thanks!

Great question! Thanks for writing. For pre-filtration, we judge a system based on a “dead bird” scenario: What happens if a bird dies on your roof? I hate to admit it, but I’ve seen it happen a handful of times over the years - we want to make sure there’s no way for that bird to get into the cistern/tank and contaminate the water supply, and best case scenario, we use a pre-filter that removes the bird as quickly as possible from the drainage. Our Wisy Vortex filter and our Monjolin filters (not mentioned in this video because it’s a newer technology) both do well to remove any potential contaminants as quickly as possible from the drainage system so that they do not impact the water supply. Gutter guards, in your case, may be sufficient, but they are generally more expensive and not as thorough filtration compared to the Wisy or Monjolins. Hope this helps!

it sure looks like it, but, believe it or not, that is a natural color. Our customer is in an area with limestone outcroppings which will naturally turn water that bright blue-green

@rainbrothers oh wow... That is incredible. I stand corrected then.

@rainbrothers so does that mean if I put some limestones in My ponds they will turn this color? Or no?

@@SherrickDuncan I think it would take a large amount to change the pH of the water and turn it that vibrant blue-green, but it would sure be an interesting experiment!

@@rainbrothers limestone gravel maybe?

It is federal law, apparently. I believe they are a non-native species so if they weren’t sterilized, they could wipe out other species

@rainbrothers ah I see.

Regular chlorination of water and of indoor plumbing is an important part of managing rural water systems. We have chlorine pellets on our website ( www.rainbrothers.com/store/Chlorine-Pellets-2-2lb-Bag-p281493567 ) that you can add every three months to the tank directly to keep the water oxidized. Hope this helps!

The digital pump controller is not a POS. Not only is it easy to adjust, but it also has built-in dry-run protection for your pump, which replaces the need for, say, a PumpSaver. Mechanical pressure switches are great and we use them 90% of the time, but they have their downside: They are not easy to fine-tune, they stick, and they don’t inherently protect the pump from running dry. If a mechanical switch works for you, great! If not, and if you want something that you can easily adjust, then this is your ticket

This video details what to do: “Well pump not working? Check THIS before calling a plumber!” kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGPHgYGCfdSIeMU New pressure switches can sometimes stick and you need to snap it to get it to work. Subscribing to our channel helps find videos like this to make your troubleshooting easier

Did you try adjusting the pressure switch like I mentioned in this video? That is the only way to really fix it, other than replacing your pressure switch with this: www.rainbrothers.com/store/Amtrol-Guardian-CP-Digital-Pump-Control-p353776975

Yes, you’re right. It is difficult to fine tune standard pressure switches though

220v pumps don’t have a neutral leg. Only two hots and a ground, and both hots get wired into the switch.

I am running into this same problem with my 220, it has 4 wires, one ground one nuteral

@@tyveno9790 If your pump has a neutral leg, then just wire nut the neutrals together inside the pressure switch cover… you only need to run the hot legs thru the switch terminals for 230v systems and the grounds to the grounding screws at the base of the switch.

My Sta-Rite Owner's Manual says "cap the white (neutral) wire". The pump has no neutral. The OP is correct.

if I run a 10/3 can I also pull 110volts from the circuit to power my water softener? if not, what electrical box do I need to purchase to provide 110 for my water softener and 220 for my oil pump?

Hi - thanks for writing. Yes, the PumpSaver is used to protect the well pump from running dry. There was a type-o in the second part of your question so I’m not quite sure what you meant

Hi - thanks for the question! We have more videos that go into detail on this point. Here is one that might help answer your question: Installing pump in rain harvest cistern kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHOXqH2BiryJsNU

You can do it a few different ways, but the best way is to use a second pressure tank and tie the two water supplies together (downstream of filtration) and use a series of valves to open one up and close off the other. I would highly recommend incorporating check valves when doing this so the two water systems don’t contaminate each other

For the 2” gasket, you’ll actually drill a 3” hole. Here is the hole saw size chart for our gaskets: drive.google.com/file/d/1jBcaXIhM8bbcwE48z4LzQyspuHlyGbLT/view If that link doesn’t work, there’s also a link on the product page for the Tank Penetration Gaskets on our website. Thanks so much for your business and for the kind words! Feel free to call or text our shop tomorrow if any part of the install needs clarification

@@rainbrothers thank you for the answer. I actually called your office first thing this morning. The person who answered the phone was very helpful. I actually had a couple of questions, and she answered them perfectly. I wasn’t looking at the chart right. A little intimidated on drilling the hole in the tank.

Thanks so much for the kind words!

This is drainage - not sanitary plumbing

Personally, I struggle with slip couplings. I much prefer Ferncos. But, as they say, there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Thanks for the suggestion!

@@rainbrothers slip couplings are specifically almost a 1/8" larger so it can fit over the pipe I've worked with several slip couplings over the years they're convenient but they're expensive also you got to use Clear primer not purple purple makes it stick too much and makes it harder to work with

@@ronjeremy-s3h Oh yes - I’ve worked with slip couplings a handful of times, but in cases like this where I need to rotate the pipe after installing the tee, it saves a step or two to use Ferncos. Thanks for commenting! Have a good one

This is downspout drainage, not sanitary plumbing

These are not sanitary lines - this is rooftop drainage that has already been filtered, so it’s clean water. Sorry, that was not clear, but for those who follow my channel, they would know that

This is downspout drainage - not sewage. That is not clear from my video, so I apologize for the confusion. For those who follow my channel, they know that we don’t do sanitary plumbing. Thanks for the feedback

Great feedback! This is not sanitary plumbing, though - it’s downspout drainage and clean water is passing thru. Straight Ferncos have been used by drainage contractors for decades, but I do like the idea of incorporating sheer bands in some applications.

Built for a 50-year service

They are stainless steel

these couplings are designed to be buried

Yes, and this is downspout drainage, not sanitary plumbing for those who didn’t catch that

This is not sanitary plumbing - it’s downspout drainage. That was not apparent when I published it, so I apologize for the confusion

@@rainbrothers and now my no turns into a yes ✅

There are undoubtedly issues with all types of filters, because they will all clog and require cleaning eventually. The nice thing about this is: 1) It’s price point; 2) It’s made in the USA; and 3) It’s not made of plastic, so it will last longer and weather better. We have tried Rain Harvesting’s “rain heads” in the past (Leaf Eater being one model), and have found that they work about as well as this one but they are not as durable since they’re made of plastic, they have an open front (which, once they clog, will channel water straight out, missing the downspout/cistern completely), and they’re made in Australia so they’re more expensive. Our first recommendation for excellent pre-filtration is our Monjolin filters, followed by our Wisy vortex filters… but those are expensive, and for older cisterns, these are easy to add on and they do the job of keeping coarse debris out. Thanks for writing!

@@rainbrothers Concur, affordable, not plastic, and domestically made are highest priorities. Thanks for the reply and thank you for publishing the video!

@@load_nikon Thank you for your feedback! I always am curious to know folks’ experience with various products, and really appreciate you taking the time to comment and share

Yes, you can. You’ll want to make sure it’s outdoors and that the ozone is turned off when people are inside the hot tub so they aren’t exposed to inhalation

Most of our work is in Ohio, but we also service parts of Indiana and Kentucky

In our setup (mentioned in this video), the supply pipe coming from the well is just open pipe that pours into the top of the tank. If you have 100 PSI, then you have a valve closed somewhere or are using very small pipe… I don’t know how 100 PSI could develop against an open-ended pipe unless you have a monster of a pump on the other end.

Sorry to hear! Not sure how that could’ve happened unless the wires shorted out inside the pressure switch. But even then, your breaker should’ve tripped the moment a short happened. I would highly recommend contacting an electrician to get to the bottom of the issue. There could’ve been a surge in your system too but an electrician should be able to investigate and figure out the root cause

@rainbrothers a tech came buy and it got hit by lightning pretty wild

@@vicentee2687 Goodness! Glad it only affected your pressure switch. Glad you got it figured out

Yes, Roman concrete is pretty fascinating. However, concrete (Roman or otherwise) is not inherently waterproof - it still needs to be parged with a waterproofing cement on a regular basis

@@rainbrothers I don't think so. The hot mixing of quicklime (i.e high temps), the alumina silicate of pozzolana combined with high mineral sea water and the late addition of free lime clasts into the mix allowed new mineral crystalline structures to grow when fissures and cracks formed and water flowed through them. That is why/how unmaintained underwater roman concrete structures stand to this day. Their chemical structure makes them....almost alive.

@@rainbrothers if you install concrete cisterns, this might be something to experiment with in your free time. It doesn't have to be the exact ingredients they used, I would imagine, just chemically similar. The properties you're looking for in pozzolana would be alumino silicate; zeolite sand or clay, pumice sand or perlite. You would have to have quicklime, some of which you need small chunks of to throw in at the end of the mix. And limestone gravel. It looks like you'd have to make it yourself which isn't hard. Burn limestone in a fire until red hot. And clean water with a high mineral salt or a mixture of table salt, Epsom salt and borax. 4.64 oz per gallon.

@@rainbrothers some variation of ingredients with these chemical properties along with hot mixing them is how they built their underground cisterns too.

@@rainbrothers to this day, the Greek's and Italians use a pozzolana product to waterproof their pools. The Romans built it into their waterlogged structures.

Yes, there is an o-ring inside the pitless assembly. There is also a larger, thicker external gasket, but that is used to seal the exterior to the wall of your well casing and wouldn’t have any impact on water pressure in the system (it would just impact having a good seal on the well to prevent surface water contamination).