The motors can slide a few mm in the bolt holes, so i just tightened by hand and then fixed the screws, which is working fine till now. I could take some pictures and put them in the Tingyverse repo, i will check one of the coming days

@@devilmastah Would appreciate that, thanks for the quick reply! Really like the design, but thinking of CNC some of the parts, especially the stepper holder. Thanks :)

@@msaccoi actually cnc milled most of the housing and tripod mount / dec bracket by now. The motor mounts i left 3d printed. There is almost no load on them with the huge reduction so i see no reason to replace my pc-cf printed ones

Did you manage to draw one up ? Else i might be able to add a file for it, i think a friend of mine has a CG3 that i could have a look at.

Hi I didn't manage it yet. I have had a briefly attempt then I've been away since. If you could try that'd be awesome. I just received the rest of the parts I need for construction

​@@IvanProsper Good luck building! and do not hesitate to ask questions. I asked the friend for the tripod, he is sick atm but should be possible somewhere end of the week :) So expect one more STL to be added to the set, i will update you here. Also, while building, if you have the patience please write down what was hard to do or needs better explaining, then i can make it easyer for other people. Its always good to have an outside view :) A build_images.zip has been added on thingiverse :)

Hi, this is some time ago indeed, i think the main problem was pressure, i learned a lot the last 10 years :) Having the right pumps and having clean equipment helps a lot. Fun thing is i got sputtering to work once before i buildt the magnetron in this video, by just having a magnet under the baseplate under the chamber. My guess is that the magnetron itself with all the screws in it etc was creating some virtual leaks or that one of the needed passtroughs was the problem. I am not to certain as i ended up giving it up in the end (it was just a hobby project as a teenager and buying a turbopump was out of reach at the time). I tried this again recently with the right equipment and results are a lot better.

@@Photonographe With the filament i use (prusament pc cf) this works fine as far as i did test. I have not loaded it to a point yet that a counterweight needs to be used. But it holds up in testing, i have a 40cm rod (m10 thread) with a 500 gram weight from a really small mount for it.

@@devilmastah thanks ! :)

@@紫幻-i5p its in the detailed description on thingyverse (there is a txt file with all parts)

​@@devilmastah Thank you very much, I found the txt file and the harmonic drive model is exactly the same as what I have. I plan to design the body with aluminum square tubes, and use 3D printing for the internal parts. This should provide a good balance between strength and price，if every thing works as i thought

if you do so please let me know, i was already planning on it once i have budget to build another controller. The S6 i have does not fit and already had its own housing.

@@devilmastah Also looking at the 'Radxa ZERO 3W' board to run Stellarmate, again, inside the "cube".

@@stephane153 nice, i wanted a full computer on it, so its a bit different then in the video now and has a N100 pc mounted to the front.

@@devilmastah I looked at that mini cube PC you mentioned in the Description file, it's nice but I won't need all of that power. And for the price of a Radxa mini...

hah i will correct that, 6816-2rs, i just checked, the id goes around a printed part :) so 80x100x10 But i really doubt it is needed when only putting 5 kg on it and would skip it. I was planning on putting a 1800mm dob on the mount 😂

I tried the printed version so far with a TS optics 60mm F6 apo + ASI2600 + guidescope+camera, focusser etc. Which propably totals around 4kg as well. (in fact the newton you see me slew in this video is 5.3 kg without anything added). The whole print is quite solid, i payed a lot of attention to print orientation / layer orientation while designing for strength, this is why it is so many parts and screws :) . I would say it also depends a lot on material choice, petg-cf or pla-cf is pretty good and printable on most printers that have a hardened nozzle. I actually used Polycarbonate CF which is quite a extreme material and my goto choice for stuff that neads to be stiff, strong and should last a while. But a good quality PLA with 6 outer walls and 4 top bottom layers is really strong as well! If you do not fully trust it at first put some equal weight on it and let it slew for a while, or add a bungee cord to your scope in case if epic failure. Last week i started rebuilding the whole project / all mechanical parts on my diy cnc mill in aluminium and it can now carry my big newton with all the other stuff with ease getting total guiding nrs into the 0.35 arc seconds. And i have a feeling that i am nowhere near the limit yet.

@@devilmastah cool thanks, I print PETG but I wouldn't mind trying that Polycarbonate CF if my Prusa mini supports it. That payload sounds plentiful to me.

I also added a STEP file to the files on thingyverse

@@stephane153 I use prusament pc blend CF, it prints like an absolute dream and should work without enclosure. :) Its hard to come by and sold out in the blink of an eye. The normal PC Blend without CF is also extremely good!

@@stephane153 I use Prusament PC-Blend CF, its expansive but so strong i actually tore a musscle once trying the strength of it :') It should be printable without enclosure and is one of the nicest printing filaments i have ever come across when it comes to a mix of durability / toughness, printability and just how it looks. Downside is it is CF so hardened nozzle is required and it is almost always sold out within the blink of an eye! The normal PC-Blend they sell is also a really good filament and my second option for mechanical parts.

I added a alternative backflange to the STL's and fusion file :) this combines the back flange, bearing housing, and lower motor mount in one piece.

@@devilmastah thank you

I am exporting all the files right now :)

I put a thingyverse link in the description, there is more info there as well in a text document

@@devilmastah OMG. legend. can't wait to make this

@@IvanProsper Let me know when you accomplish it. Its a challange but doable if you have a good printer. I will propably update the thingyverse post and the desciption here in a few days, i am making a step by step assemebly guide with photos :)

@@devilmastah i only have an ender 3v2 so not entirely confident, but we'll see

Oh my god. I did find it. Thank you so much my man. Made my weekend ❤

@@anhdangduc1061 great! youtube for whatever reason did not allow me to comment or even change a comment on the other video, it even removed the edited comments 😅

@@devilmastah yeah. I somehow managed to witness all of that in action through my notifications. I was very mad at this app lol. Thank you again bro. I'm considering between your type and using planetary drive + harmonic drive type (Please look up "Alkaid mount"). I'm planning to use mine mainly as alt az mode for visual. Could you please give me some advice on what type to go for?

in case your interested, new share link with full assembly :) a360.co/473kJKk

i'm wondering the same

1.3k views now. :)

devilmastah(at)gmail(dot)c o m

Its a LLP table with a playstation 2 camera

+Tumblesilk Animations noice

c:devilmastah

Thank you for the hint, any suggestions on where to get a sheet of viton so i can cut my own seals? Since i have more space to work now i will make a better setup and try again, still wondering if the 2 stage pump i use is enough to do this (other people seem to get it working so i guess it should)

devilmastah stores.ebay.com/BOHEMIA-SEAL?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Talk to them, they might be able to help. I would not use a sheet. I don't think it would seal well, see if they can make you something with a U shape profile. Silver should work beautifully with just a 2 stage pump, and it's relatively cheap. Look for 99.9 coins on ebay. I gave up on sputtering reactive materials, like copper, the industry standard is to pump to 10^-5 or 10^-6 torr then add argon to get back to sputtering pressure.

Daedronus Thanks for the suggestion, silver is actually not a problem for me (my dad is a jewlery maker). But since i want to try to make some copper mirrors i will see how far i get with the copper or buy myself a turbopump