I removed everything but the brace and here i am. I have no idea how to remove it. Any ideas?

Did you find any instruction on how to take it out?

You need to watch all four videos. If you still have questions then ask me again.

No. It’s done at the engine. Both cables are adjusted at the engine linkage.

What do you mean by “stencil”? Do you mean the adjustment tools? You can buy them on EBay. Here a link for the two you need to set the cable up. www.ebay.com/itm/193420192606

Don’t know. The tool is cheap. I’d recommend you buy one. There’s one piece that goes to hold the pivot with the outdrive off. And the other goes on the cable end. $40 on Amazon. Here’s the link. www.amazon.com/SpeedFreakCNC-Sterndrive-Alignment-915271-914017/dp/B07B6WGGBT?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A1XBWOSDXOCEUO

Here’s an even cheaper tool on eBay. I’ve seen em as cheap as $11 for the pair. www.ebay.com/itm/193420192606

I'm having the same problem myself.

Yeah. 1st thing is your engine rpm’s. It MUST be set to 550-600 rpm’s max. You’ll need an accurate digital or analog rpm meter to verify this. Most digital timing lights also have rpm meters built into them. With the engine off, slide the cable off like I do in this video. You should be able to slip the shifter forward & backwards easily from the controls at the steering wheel. If that isn’t binding, then your cable from your controls to the engine is ok. Then take the cable that goes from the engine to the outdrive & see if you can easily shift it from forward to neutral, and neutral to reverse. You might need someone outside to spin the prop by hand to verify this. Or. You could always start the engine on the trailer & hook water to it & test it that way. If you don’t see any difficulties with shifting, I don’t know what to tell you. If you’re mechanically inclined, pull the outdrive off and inspect the fulcrum (bellcrank) at the outdrive transom mount. Watch all my videos on the system. If nothing looks bad, then your problem might be in the unit itself. They make an updated clutch dog that allows for easier engagement, but usually has nothing to do with disengagement. Hope this helps.

Thank you for the help. It ended up being the rpm’s not being at 550. I tightened the throttle cable as much as I could on the carb and this fixed the problem. Do you have a video on replacing a throttle cable? I think one of my issues was from pulling on the controls too hard and stretching out the cable as a result when I went to shift the cable was pushing on the throttle just a tad and keeping the rpms at 800-900

Yeah. Like I said. The rpm’s need to be low for the thing to shift out of fwd or rev. The updated clutch dogs help with engagement. Many times the Carburator will drip fuel off the clusters & cause the engine to idle erratically. Set your carbs idle mixture properly and get that thing to idle low. The lower the better. The throttle cable replacement is straightforward. Just buy a new one & swap it out. Usually it’s not the cable that stretches. It’s usually the shifter gets play in it. Which means replacing the shifter. There should be no play whatsoever when you try going back & forward. As soon as you move the controls the cable should move. If it doesn’t, it’s probably the shifter itself.

Same issue but In forward PLEASE HELP

​. Figure it out?

Sounds like the ESA isn’t adjusted properly. You’ll notice that the ESA switch only engages when force is applied to the throttle. I’d lubricate everything 1st to make sure there’s no binding in the linkages with WD40. If that doesn’t help. Do a search for Michael Romer. He has a pretty good video on the ESA adjustment. I haven’t done one yet but might this summer when I pull the boat out again to use it.

As I replied above. Sounds like the ESA isn’t adjusted properly. You’ll notice that the ESA switch only engages when force is applied to the throttle. I’d lubricate everything 1st to make sure there’s no binding in the linkages with WD40. If that doesn’t help. Do a search for Michael Romer. He has a pretty good video on the ESA adjustment. I haven’t done one yet but might this summer when I pull the boat out again to use it.

Thanks man.

You’d have to remove the input shaft from the front. The bearing carrier has 4 bolts where the shims are. Remove the input shaft assembly & then you can use a drift punch to pound the water pump adapter plate out of the case. Wayne Koll at TC electronics & marine on KZbin has full rebuild step by steps. His video is like 45 minutes on the tear down.

Did you match the impeller to the old part 1st? Have you watched Wayne Kolls videos on the Cobra units? He has a step by step video on disassembly, rebuild and reassembly. They're kind of complicated if you're having to set up the proper shimming. Here's a link to part 1. Check them out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g56neICpob14b68

I have the same problem let me know how you fixed it

This is caused by too high rpms or shift cable adjustment being off and the interrupter not being triggered . RPMs should be 550-600 you should hear the engine studder if not your cable my be stretched.

The adjustment usually affects going into forward or reverse. Usually not getting out of gear. If you’re unable to shift when the engine is running. Either your engine RPM’s are too high. Or the ESA (engine stutterbox) isn’t making the engine stutter to cause disengagement (or both). You need low rpms & engine stuttering to disengage the drive. Now. If both your rpms are low (550-600 rpm) and the stutter box (ESA) is working, then something is wrong in the drive itself. You may need to remove it. Separate the upper from the lower case. And remove the output shaft retainer & replace the clutch dog for the updated one. Watch my other videos on this. I show you the updated parts.

As I told the fella above. The adjustment usually affects going into forward or reverse. Usually not getting out of gear. If you’re unable to shift when the engine is running. Either your engine RPM’s are too high. Or the ESA (engine stutterbox) isn’t making the engine stutter to cause disengagement (or both). You need low rpms & engine stuttering to disengage the drive. Now. If both your rpms are low (550-600 rpm) and the stutter box (ESA) is working, then something is wrong in the drive itself. You may need to remove it. Separate the upper from the lower case. And remove the output shaft retainer & replace the clutch dog for the updated one. Watch my other videos on this. I show you the updated parts.

Most likely either due to the shift cable adjustment or the shifter. The outdrive needs to be in the neural position for the shifter to slide outward & disengage outdrive & allow RPM to increase separate from outdrive engagement. I would take the outdrive shift cable off the pivot assembly where the Carb is and see if you can operate the throttle properly. Put the shifter back into the neutral position. And then with your hands, feel if the outdrive is in the neutral position by pushing the cable by hand in & out of reverse & forward. Find the center position. Then see if you can just skip the cable on without having to make any adjustments. If it doesn’t just slip on easily, you’ll need to go through the whole adjustment

Could be anything. Do you have an OMC outdrive? You need 2 things for the engine to run, fuel & spark. If the engine is suddenly shutting off like that, it’s most likely losing spark. The ESA switch may be maladjusted. You can simply unplug the ESA module and see if it stops dying going into gear. If it does stop dying, you’ve probably got a maladjusted ESA switch. Or. The outdrive is locked up. Take a video of it and post a link here.

I have been having the same issue with mine shutting off when I first put it in gear once the boat is warmed up the issue goes away rebuilt the carburetor and the issue seemed to not be as bad

Well. This video is mostly about adjusting the cable to get into gear properly. If your engine is dying going into gear, I’d verify 1st if you have an OMC Cobra. Because Mercurys or Volvos work differently. Adjust your idle speed to 550-600 rpm. Make sure your idle mixture is adjusted properly. If you think the stutter box is the issue, then just unplug it. If it’s now staying on, you might have a stutter box (ESA module) that is just stalling the engine rather than just making it stutter. If it’s still dying, make sure the Carburator isn’t dripping from the Venturi clusters. Don’t forget this setup gas points in the distributor. Make sure your points are still good. And that the dwell is adjusted properly. Also. Make sure your ignition timing is where it’s supposed to be.

Los Angeles California

Thanks. Hope it helps you.

Yep. Time to pull the unit sounds like. Since the input shaft is directly connected to the driveshaft, and thus the coupler, you've got something big time wrong. Good luck.

It should be in neutral.

Did you watch all 5 parts of the video?

@@stevejohnson29 no because sometimes its Hard to understand all, sry im from germany. I think its a electrical Problem at my boat because most of time it runs normally.

@smallenginerepair7921 thanks but meanwhile we repaired it

What did you find was the problem?

Sorry for the very late reply. I don’t check this channel much anymore. But. Yeah. 8 turns seems to be the magic number if you end up removing this rod from the housing. Start the threads & just count 8 turns. Seems to work pretty well. Wayne Koll over at TC electronics on KZbin has some VERY comprehensive videos on rebuilding these things. So. That’s where I got that info from. That’s all he does up in Canada is rebuild these things.

You actually BREAK the shift cable going from your outdrive to the shift fulcrum on the engine? How many times has this happened? I know people who have the same shifter cable for years. Sometimes decades. If the tungsten is literally breaking time after time, I’d be questioning the parts quality you’re getting for one. Always try to use a factory part or from a reputable vendor like GLM or somebody. I know Wayne Koll over at TC Marine & Electronics in Canada has the factory cables. If you’re in the USA, he might be able to refer you to a place closer to you. I’d also be looking at things that are causing your cable to bind. Either from the pivot fulcrum on the engine going to the outdrive. Or the problem is in the outdrive itself. If you’re breaking cables, I would assume this thing is hard to shift from reverse to neutral. Also. Are you breaking the cable going to the outdrive? Or the cable going from the shifter to the engine?

Shifter to engine 4 times is like ok they put it on I go to lake to try pum 💥 again

And I think is good quality I buy in west marine !!

Then there’s something way wrong there. Sounds like the shifter cable from the shifter to the engine is binding somewhere. If west marine is putting them in, keep taking it back & demand they fix it correctly. The only thing that’s going to break a cable 99% of the time is mis installation.

So. It sounds like your shift cable from the fulcrum assembly (where I disconnected the shift cable at in the video) to the outdrive is binding. If you’re removing the shift cable from the fulcrum assembly & your shifter isn’t binding anymore, I’d say your problem is in the cable or possibly in the outdrive itself. If you remove the shift cable from the fulcrum assembly like you see me do in the video...you should be able to shift the outdrive into forward & reverse by hand. Have an assistant help you by turning the prop by hand & try pushing the cable the cable back & forth by hand with the engine off to see how easy it is to get into forward or reverse. It should go into & out of gear with very little effort. How long has it been since you’ve had the outdrive off to check the cable, i joints, bellows & stuff? If it’s been years, you might just want to pull the unit off & check things. It’s pretty easy to remove. You don’t even have to drain the oil if you’re not going to open up your unit. Just remove the prop, detach the trim rams from the unit & the 6 bolts that hold it on. Make sure to get the two tools you’ll need to check & set your shift cable once off. Many times what you’ll find is that water has gotten into the shift fulcrum pivot area where the outdrive meets the stern mount. The shift cable will be buried in corrosion & will need to be replaced. Watch my other videos in regards to that fulcrum pivot there, because the rivet in the pivot is notorious for coming loose, cause play in the system & thus shifting problems. Now. In regards to your dying problem. Did you try to disconnect your ESA module when the problem happens? When you do this, it would eliminate the ESA being the problem. The ESA uses the switches in the shifter fulcrum on the motor to slow the engine down during shift engagements. It essentially makes the engine misfire to get it to lower the eng rpms & to shift properly. Since your cable might be binding, the ESA may be staying activated causing you not to be able to restart. Because vapor lock is usually never a thing on a boat since the engines are cooled by lake or ocean water. Is the engine overheating? Vapor lock is when the fuel boils either in the fuel line or the carb bowl. What kind of engine/carb combo are you running? When the engine dies, you should look down the throat of the carb to make sure fuel isn’t dripping off the Venturi clusters. If it is, you’ve probably got a high float level, excess fuel pressure, or the carb needs a good rebuild which includes a good soaking of the carb in a carb dip solution. You might have a bunch of fuel deposits in the emulsion tubes of the carb which will cause the carb to drip off the Venturi clusters while running. The best time to diagnose the start up problem is when it’s happening. Bring tools with you to the lake or ocean & check a few things. #1, I’d install an in-line fuel pressure gauge so you know your fuel pressure isn’t going over 7psi. #2, I’d check to see if you have good spark by removing the coil wire at the distributor & have someone crank the motor over & ck for steady spark coming out the coil. There are two basic things you need for a motor to run, fuel & spark. You can have too much fuel, or not enough. If you think you’re truly vapor locking, that would mean the carb is flooding the motor with too much fuel. Because that’s what vapor locking does. The fuel boils out of the carb & gets into the motor unregulated. Usually if it truly is vapor lock. Cracking the fuel line to the carb would have fuel shooting out of the line because of the fuel percolating. If that’s not happening, or you don’t see fuel percolating off the venturis while looking down the throat of the carb with the engine off, you don’t have vapor lock. Agsin. The best time to diagnose this is when it’s happening. I would 1st try what called “clear flood mode”. When it dies, take your shifter & pull the shifter out like you’re trying to remove the arm, it should pop out towards you so you can operate only the carb throttle without the shifter trying to shift the boat into drive or reverse. That way you can open the carb fully (wide open throttle). While holding the carb at wide open throttle, you should be able to get a vapor locked motor to restart in what we call a “clear flood mode”. If it’s truly vapor locked, you’ll see a bunch of black smoke & smell the thing running really rich mixture wise. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks for the compliment. Hope it helps.