Thanks! Appreciate you watching, glad you enjoyed it. I found out recently that Superformance still makes these Cobras and the GT40. One day….

Thank you, I really appreciate that!

Thank you so much, and thanks for watching

Thank you, glad you like the video!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much!

Thanks 👍

Thank you! And yeah the Eduard decals were great, nice and thin film but still robust. The orange stripe was a bit translucent, but I went back over it with some orange oil paint and that fixed it.

@@scalemodelpursuit well, it looks awesome. I used the Eduard Sundowners marks on mine. They were incredible.

Awesome stuff, I plan to do a sundowners in the future, one of my favorite squadrons

Thanks Brian, you appreciate that! Glad you enjoyed it. Please leave a like if you can!

My local HobbyTown USA

@@Medigato thanks for watching and the nice compliment. I would guess a 100 or more but honestly no idea, haha

Thanks 👍

Looking at doing a 1/32 Tomcat 😬

Awesome 👍👍 are you willing to build something and sell it?

Yes sir I’d be open to that

@@scalemodelpursuit stellar! Anything tomcat hahaha doesn't matter what squadron.

Thank you and I hope your build goes really well!!!

Hi there, I have an exclusive video for channel members at Mach3 level that is a step by step build of it, but basically I bought some basswood strips and made a sketch of the shape of the two ends and used a “chop it” from Micro Mark to cut all the pieces precisely. Then painted it similar to weathering an aircraft model

I used Alumilite Clear Cast Epoxy

Thank you so much 👍

Wow 950? No that’s not me on eBay but maybe I should try!

Hey there, thank you, and thanks for watching! I bought a Micro-Scale decal set, and the stars are all connected on one transparent decal, so it was easy to apply the decal and adjust the position with microset decal solution. Right at 13:06 in the video you can see the outline of the decal.

​@scalemodelpursuit thanks for the prompt reply. I would like to know how can we remove the outline here. Again, thanks for the good reference here.

@scalemodelpursuit Hi Sir, can you teach me how to remove the outline?Also, I am currently at the stage choosing tamiya f14A and f14D, any recommendation?

@zhuhenry9586 to eliminate the outline, after the decal is dry, I gently wipe the decal area with a soft damp cloth. This will remove any of the remaining decal chemical on the surface. Then I spray a couple of thin gloss clear coats over the decal. The decals I bought for this model are very thin, so the edge disappears. Tamiya decals are thicker, so when I use them I spray a few more layers of gloss clear over the decal, then carefully sand the edge away with 1000 grit sandpaper and work up to 6000. From what I’ve seen the Tamiya F14A is also an awesome kit, mostly the same as the D kit. So I think it comes down to personal preference. I really like how the engine nozzles look on the F14D so I went with the D kit. I think the D model may have more modern weapons and targeting pod included in the kit, but not 100% sure on that. I do plan on building an F14A in the future, because I really enjoyed building this one! Good luck with your build and feel free to ask questions once you get into your build. I really appreciate you watching and engaging in conversation with me.

@scalemodelpursuit thank you sir for the patience and teaching. Looking forward to your next video!

No unfortunately I overlooked it in the upgrade set

Haha, thanks!

Never good when you are missing your pitot tube 😂

Thank you, I appreciate the comment. I will most likely try a 1/32 Trumpeter kit to get the “full experience” because they do have some kits I like, especially they A6 and A7

Glad you enjoyed it!

Yeah I just did a computer scan of the decal sheet with my printer, and then brought the scanned image into the Silhouette software. The mask material is called frisket film, and the silhouette cutter does a nice job with it.

@@scalemodelpursuit thank you

Thanks for the tip, will try that next time I simulate welds

Sorry to hear that, I know that is frustrating as that happened to me on my first attempt at air brushing. A good place to start might be about 50% paint to 50% thinner. Of course the thinner has to match the paint type, but there are some tricks here too. What brand of paints are you trying to use?

@@scalemodelpursuit I was using the Tamiya paints, like the X-1 Black, etc. Also tried the Testors brand. It was like my airbrushes were clogging up. Now I’m using Vallejo Model Color and the Vallejo Model Air, but I’m doing it all with brushes now. I’m still coming out with some quality paint jobs. I’m 62 and been doing models most of my life, so I’ve gotten pretty good with the brushes. But my hands aren’t as steady as they once were, which is why I finally upgraded to the air brush. But it’s been nothing but frustration so far. And it gets expensive buying them. And no one around here works on them. Any help is greatly appreciated!

ok thanks for the info. What type of airbrush do you have? I would encourage you not to give up, I almost did but once you figure it out airbrushing can become one of the most enjoyable parts of the process because of the effects you can achieve. If your airbrush can handle solvents, Alclad II has a fantastic airbrush cleaner but be sure to wear a respirator and gloves. Might be strong enough to soak some of the parts and get it working again. For Tamiya Acrylic paints, they are acrylic lacquers, so you can use lacquer thinner or Isopropyl alcohol as a thinner base. If you’re airbrush can handle lacquer thinner, and you can vent you area where you are spraying, My go-to thinner is Mr Color Leveling Thinner because it has a paint retarder added into it. But you can also use regular lacquer thinner. If your airbrush can’t handle lacquer thinner (because of the seals and o-rings) you can use Isopropyl Alcohol (I get mine at Walmart). Factors in clogging: 1-Nozzle/needle size: the smaller the nozzle the thinner the paint should be. Here is a rough guide for Tamiya paints: 0.4mm nozzle 40-50% thinner 20-25 psi 0.2mm nozzle 60-70% thinner 15-20 psi 0.15mm nozzle 80-90% thinner 5-10 psi -For Vallejo Model air: I use a 0.4mm nozzle at 25psi and I only use Airbrush Flow improver 50% with these paints! This was huge for me. I almost threw out my Vallejo paints I was so frustrated with the clogging. Using Vallejo flow improver as the thinner was the secret! For thinning Tamiya paints with Isopropyl Alcohol, there is a fantastic home brew thinner from Barbatos Rex that I make at home and use. Here is the link to that video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKiycnuIqdVqiKcsi=YXHGONjaTiXHiug3 2- Cleaning Use the same solvent or thinning medium to clean the airbrush that was used to thin the paint. I have accidentally use the wrong solvent and the paint immediately clumps up in the airbrush. I pretty much completely clean my airbrush unless I am painting several things in a row. 3- water in the compressed air. I had clogging problems and then realized I had not drained the water separator frequently enough on my compressors air filter. Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions -Scott

@@scalemodelpursuit Thank you for all this info! This is exactly the type of help I was looking for. Both airbrushes I had were the IWATA air brushes. They cost about $150 each. I do all my air brushes and primer applications in well ventilated area, so that’s not a problem. What type of air brushes do you use? I’m ready to invest in a good quality one. Thanks! PS - I’m also named Scott. LOL

Hey Scott! Glad this helped. I have a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR+ 2 in 1 that I ordered from SprayGunner.com. I really like the design of the airbrush, they are easy to disassemble for cleaning and the nozzle component is a decent size so it is easy to clean. The 2 in 1 comes with a 0.4mm needle/nozzle and a 0.2mm setup, so I have found it to be very versatile. The chrome finish is awesome and it has stood up to constant use with lacquer thinner and airbrush cleaner. You can also order it with one size needle and buy the other size later. spraygunner.com/on-sale-discounted-or-used/open-box-harder-steenbeck-infinity-cr-2-in-1-0-15-0-4mm-v2-0/ I’m sure there are many good airbrushes out there but I have really enjoyed this one. Let me know how it turns out with your new airbrush!

That is great that your Dad got you started and it became a life long passion. Also cool that you build such a wide range of model types. Each type has different challenges I am finding out. Enjoy the RC166 build, I thought it was really fun and was my first motorcycle.

Thank you, and thanks for watching!

Thank you very much! Appreciate it!

Reheat Models 👍

thank you so much!! 😄

For the seam line perhaps? 🤔

Thank you very much, I really appreciate that!

Thanks 👍