Check out part 2 for the vacuum solenoid that gets blocked.

If you look at the video 5 minutes 57 seconds in, just to the left of the pry bar below the temperature sensor is a white/ clear plastic drain plug, I think it uses a 13 spanner. Don't remove it just loosen it. It's plastic so don't overtighten.

It's not always the belt which can fail, if the idler or tensioner seize then the belt is coming off. I'm taking in general not about this specific model. To my mind it's best just to change them.

150000K or 5 years.

how much liters oil in this plz . 1.4 turbo 120hp 2012 opel meriva b

Sorry to say but that's no oilchange but a filler upper. Have an 2011 Meriva 1.4 turbo 120bhp, it has an Y3W394 manual 5 speed gearbox, takes 1.6ltrs 75W gearoil and its a ridiculous job to change its oil cause you have to take the pan off to get all oil out! Could have been engineerd way better for services imo!

Well over 150k km, it could be as well 10 years plus, whichever comes first

I would asssume it's good practice to chanke the cam modulator though.

I tried bleeding it as you would the brakes by pumping the pedal and bleeding the air but it didn't work. If you search on KZbin how to reverse bleed a vauxhall clutch you will find a video from "driveway DIYer" and it seems many people have found the only way is to reverse bleed it. A syringe and bit of plastic tube should be all you need. Let me know how it goes.

@@j.f5212 yea cheers bud I'll make sure I've got a syringe handy then, I'm planning on doing the job Monday so I'll watch some more videos too and let you know how it goes, many thanks buddy......👍👌👍

Search on KZbin "Williams mobile clutch service" he has one on the meriva

@@j.f5212 appreciated buddy thanks

@@j.f5212 Ahhh yes I've watched his video already I'm going to give it a go without dropping the sub frame thanks to him, only been 15 years since my last clutch lol so I wanna be prepared, cheers for all your help again.....👍👌👍

I found the crank sprocket/ cog is keyed to the crank shaft, so you can loosen the crank bolt then hand tighten it to spin it to the lock pin position, I always fear mushrooming the locking tool if impacting against it, then it won't come out. Unlike some makes like ford where the cog is not keyed to the crank you have to be more careful about knowing the crank timing position with ford. I would loosen the crank bolt with an impact gun. Turn the engine to Top dead centre and fit the camshaft tools. Worst case should you have issues you could always remove the spark plug on cylinder 1 and turn the engine with a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to confirm top dead centre. And the camshaft tool gearbox side only goes in 1 way aswell to easy enough to reset the timing should anything move while working on it. Hope this helps.

@@j.f5212 thanks mate, so just to recap. Turn crank just before TDC (just before cam shaft timing marks line up) fit crank locking pin, turn crank over onto the locking pin. Fit camshaft locking tool, remove belt 👍

Type in eBay search bar "186109220197" I think they are probably the same across the 4x4 range. See the second video on the vacuum solenoid

@@j.f5212 Cheers.

Yes the main dealer workshop manual says to leave them to freely rotate. But as I say the pulleys are not circular they are triangle shaped, which means as the workshop manual also says they need to be in the exact same place at the end of the job as they were at the start. Unlike a lot of engines where you lock the cams gearbox side and the pulleys are circular shaped so they can free wheel to remove slack from the belt or chain as you fit it as the pulleys often have no timing marks, ford zetec engine springs to mind. This is not the case with this engine. The pulleys are triangle shaped with marks that need to align to each other. If the pulleys end up out of alignment to each other even though the cams were locked gearbox side, then the result will be the belt being slack at one moment following being stretched the next. As I say I advise following the workshop manual but I personally think trying to rest it back will be more awkward.

@@j.f5212 yeh i do understand that. When doing the tensioner up the movement is minimal. When rechecked after tensioner tight and 2 rotations of the crank. The slightly staggered dots across both pulleys were in same place as from factory before i removed the belt. Good video still thou. Also i had no trouble getting tool on end of cam past the hose. Was just a chinese kit

That's good, the easiest thing is to pop that top cover off and have a look at the belt. Over time it will degrade irrelevant of mileage.

I have a 10yr old Vw UP and im going to change the belt as a precaution as i dont know when it was last done. I watched this vid and other ones, it looks to me like the 2 camshaft marks should be at "12 o clock" position in line with marks on the block and not together as indicated in this vid, hence having to force the plastic tool in between the cam sprockets? Anyone?

I would think 1 hrs labour plus parts cost

I don't know, possibly i think the manual is written as if the engine is having a top end rebuild. But i can't see why you would just for a belt change.

My sister took her perfectly running car to have a full service and a timing belt, now the car won't start and they told her there's something wrong with the sump or the crankshaft and it could be expensive, mmm smelly rats

I suspect the idler or tensioner bearings will fail before the belt

If you look at one the cam pulleys are triangular. It confused me at first but it makes sense, when the belt is turning and fighting the valve springs, the triangular edges of the pulleys take up the slack so the belt is less stressed

@@chongy9895 Hm never noticed that

@@chongy9895 Yes, it's another efficiency device to squeeze as much mechanical advantage as possible

take the top cover off just 2 torx bolts and look at the belt.

No way not an issue for a long time. Belts on these engines last a very long time. Official maintenance schedule is 160k miles for a belt change

Yes correct, although the tool is plastic Vs the metal one gearbox side. But I suspect you're right the plastic one would hold it just fine.

Just had a Google, I used a "laser all drive socket" from laser part number 3594. It says "This special Alldrive Socket Set has a unique V type profile that fits HEX/MM/AF/STAR and SPLINE fixings"

Crank bolt is a 12 point socket👍

Thanks, I would upload it in higher quality but seem unable too from the mobile app . Or I can't figure it out. If anyone knows how too let me know Also look up the locking tool from draper tools. Looks easier to use and be able to see what you are doing.