@@elizabethromo5771 I’ll check when I get home and edit this post.

Okay, home now and Yes, the agitator moves both ways about one inch, and the stainless steel tub moves both ways about half of an inch, so yes they both move.

@@Noah-gq7pq thanks very much. Since posting this video I bought an OLD analog Bacharach Draft Rite gauge that works perfectly. I never saw anyone test it in the Flue. I know there is a small hole drilled just before the damper. I’ll check later to see what it’s reading. Thanks for the info.

@@Samlol23_drrich the hole is for test instrument via draft gauge,,those dam draft gauges cost ,,i had one it fell of the truck

@@irinastacy6635 most of my others are useless, so I’ll take it as a compliment! Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@suesullivan8745 are you talking about the large timer (I don’t think you are) or the small knob that says cotton (high) , permanent press, (lower) , a third lower one, and finally no heat? Is it stuck? I would pull the handle off, squirt some wd40 in there and turn it with some pliers. Once you free it up, it will turn. I’m sure you can buy a new fabric selector mechanism if that breaks it. But that’s what I would do. I will look for the port and then I’ll edit this post.edit. Something like this a.co/d/0n6VK6Q Go to a site like appliancepartspros.com or similar, enter your model number and you can look at the parts diagram for the correct part. Speed queen is made by alliance laundry systems, so look that up and you should be able to locate parts easily. Good luck.

@ Thank you for your detailed reply. I am talking about the large dial on the far right where you select the time. It will allow me to push the dial in but will not turn to select the amount of time.

@ I’m sorry, I didn’t see this until just now. The great thing about speed queen is that parts are readily accessible. I don’t know your model number, but a quick search for speed queen mechanical timer brought me to here parts.alliancelaundry.com/i-23874790-speed-queen-203387p-washer-timer120v-4-cycle-double-panel-pkg.html Now seeing that they are so available, I would do this; unplug the machine, take off the handle (I think it screws on counter clockwise, and spray either wd40 or similar right where the handle goes. If there is any kind of nut, remove it first. This is going to sound ridiculous, but I would force it.. it may just be stuck on something and if you free it up, it will work again. The other option is you take the time out and try to free it up when it’s not attached to the machine. Either way if you break it, it’s probably easy to replace (and it is not working now so there’s no loss really). Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

@@Samlol23_drrich I got the knob off and cleaned out the lint. Replaced the knob. Still would not work. Called the appliance store for service. Service person was a Speed Queen specialist. He said the timer was broke. Unfortunately, the part is no longer being manufactured. He checked on the internet for me. Only one placed listed it but they were "out of stock." Repair guy said it would never be" in stock" because the part it is no longer being manufactured. I asked him about the WD-40. He said never to do that because of sparking concerns. So I am going to buy a new Speed Queen tomorrow. This dryer has served me well for 14 years. Thanks again.

@suesullivan8745 @suesullivan8745 They make parts for everything. I don't believe that they can't get a part for your machine. If you see this before you buy a new machine, tell me the model number of your dryer and I'll look for you And if the part is available, I'll send you a link. You can also buy a can of contact cleaner to spray in there instead of wd40

@@tthen3 thank you. Really good suggestions. Hopefully I do it never again!

@@dontblameme6328 what? Replacing a five dollar throwaway regulator that came with the generator with a High quality metal regulator with a primer? Not in my world.

@@geoffmolyneux9173 I’m not a plumber but what do you mean “high pressure propane”? As I understand it, the primary regulator at my tank takes the pressure to 10 psi, and the secondary at my house takes it to 10 to 12 inches of water column. Are you saying for a large tank the proper way to run this would have been to run a 2 psi system type of setup, and feed 2 psi directly into that regulator that came attached to the generator? Cause that actually makes sense. Cause right now I’ve got three regulators before the motor, and the last two are both the same. Thanks for commenting and let me know.

@@blupupher that’s really great information. Thank you. I changed the spark plugs on all my stuff at once about four months ago (I’ve even got a small Honda Eu 2000 - so I guess that’s 3 generators) and usually just follow the specs in the service manual. I’m gonna go check now that you’ve given me that info. Thank you. Believe me, it was really disappointing that a new, out of the box generator with a built in regulator would always take so many tries to start. When you push start, it cranks for about three seconds, and if it fails to fire, it keeps trying for five times. Then you need to turn the switch to off and back on and try again. It was usually the first time of that second set that got it running.

Yes 0.020 gap for propane and 0.028 for gasoline 😊 That’s what I use 😊

You know whats gonna go bad then, don't you? The transformer! That's the way to do it though. Worst case scenario, you have the parts. Thanks for commenting.

@@DeeBee-o8n I would guess you got it off by now. If you didn't I would spray wd40 or simar on the rod and if you have a rubber mallet hit it with that. ideally if you have a socket wrench set and can put a few of the sockets over the stuck bearing so That the spindle goes through the center hole of the socket you can stack them up until they go above the spindle and then you can hit it with a hammer or mallet if that makes sense

@@DeeBee-o8n I just re-watched my video. grab a socket wrench socket that's fairly large maybe three-quarters of an inch It should sit on the bearing and miss the spindle and then hit it with a hammer till it comes loose.

@@tthen3 well the boiler will be cold when starting out, so for me, I just set the high and low limit on my aquastat to about 210 and 180 and kept an eye on the pressure to make sure it wasn’t getting too high. If needed could always turn on a zone or two in the house, which would cause the boiler temperature to drop as water is circulated through the zones.

@@Puhoin Thank you very much. It's not cedar; To be honest, I'm not 100% sure. It looks like oak to me based on the grain pattern. Thank you for watching and for your nice comment.

@@ssemakulaivanlouis140 install VxWin Pro. That’s the software I use with the machine. There was a platinum version but I didn’t buy that version.

@@ssemakulaivanlouis140 do you have the file for the sensor you have? Each sensor has a file that it needs

@@ssemakulaivanlouis140 if you can’t get it running I would call Gendex. They are one of the more helpful companies and they should be able to help you.

@@glenn58rl you’ve got me by a couple of years. My house was built in 89 and it’s original. As for the popping noise- has your boiler just recently started making that sound? I would assume so. Mine does not make any popping noise. Did you change oil suppliers recently? There aren’t many things that it could be fortunately. I think either water leak vaporizing by the high heat (probably not the case) or something burning in the oil or as you said an air bubble. If the boiler is working well I wouldn’t go crazy trying to find it, but if you turn off the supply water so the auto feeder doesn’t work, and check the pressure every couple of days, you can see if it’s leaking. I would guess a leak would cause a pressure drop in the system over time. Could also be something burning in the chamber. Maybe open the access hole on the burner and watch the flame. If it pops while you are watching you can see if the flame reacts. That’s all I can think of.

@@MRGTi5 then it’s just a little dripping, leave it until the spring or summer of next year, so just in case, you’ve got the time to either drill em out or weld to the broken bolts. I was ready with both options just in case. Good luck.

@@Samlol23_drrich yes, I have no experience with welding but I'm anticipating having to drill. hopefully I'm spared

@@MRGTi5 good luck. Let me know how it goes. Here’s a video I always refer back to. Maybe it will help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpDOqmiAi92np7csi=Cxke3v_vHDIbjf1d I’m no welder either but I bought a $100 harbor freight special just in case, and now I have it even though it wasn’t needed. Better than having to call someone.

@@mikerantissi9565 At least I know it's posted! Thanks for commenting.

@@brian64ss55 I’m not one of these people that hearts every comment, but thanks for making my day. That’s why I make these videos. Appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment like that.

I was actually looking to create a convex shape which over (not so much) time will flatten. And it worked. Great ideas though for not having that result. Thank you for your thoughts. They’re good!

@@IWBVS I don’t think t(at should happen. Are you sure the drum is in correctly and is sitting properly? Mine sounded like new. No waterfall and no clanking.

@@Samlol23_drrich I’ll have to take it apart again. Think it could be the pulley?

probably not, unless the drum isn't sitting on it correctly.

Thank you for that. You absolutely need a good amount of suction to vacuum the dust if you do it that way. That's the way I removed the thinset from the plywood subfloor. Thanks for mentioning that And for watching.

@@markbutcher9519 sometimes yes sometimes no. I always keep a spare, and clean the existing one first. Good call, though

@@metrork1 you're not the only one who has asked that so I must be missing something. The answer is definitely yes but it would have to be very deep since the spindle is large and sticks up relatively high. I have a set of 1/2 inch deep sockets but didn't even try them since I bought that stupid piece of metal. If a socket that I had fit that bolt, my Impact would have spun it off in five seconds.

@@Samlol23_drrich Thanks for responding.

@@metrork1 thank you. the gasket to my tankless coil on my 35 year old oil fired boiler was leaking so I had to replace it. Had 8 stuck bolts. I actually tightened and loostened them multiple times spraying lubricant in between to get them out. Thanks for commenting

Good luck, it was an absolutely great car. I bought it new and put 280,000 miles on the odometer with almost no repairs other than 3,000 mile oil changes With that kind of mileage, it wasn't worth it for me to do a timing chain. Which was causing it to throw a code, so I finally got rid of it cause it Wasn't worth the repair cost with that kind of mileage.

I would be afraid the battery would be too heavy for the headliner. But in all seriousness I had quite a difficult time pulling the headliner down even a fraction of an inch to get the wires in along the windshield. So two questions. First, is there a secret to dropping the headliner and being able to put it back? And second, where would you suggest putting the battery?

@@RonnyNitro I would trace it away from the board. in other words see where those 3 wires are going. If it's the Temperature sensor, you probably need a new one. If it's going to a switch You can probably just splice in some new wire and it will work.

@@Samlol23_drrich Thanks! I ordered a new thermistor since that was chewed up. Some of the wires to the left and right function boxes are chewed as well. Do you think I can just splice them back together with electrical tape or is that a fire hazard? The replacement wires online aren't cheap!

@@RonnyNitro I don't think it's a fire hazard, but if it's an outdoor connection I would make sure it's connected really well and no water can get in. I would buy some cheap crimp connectors, and then go over that with the tape. They do make mastic impregnated electrical tape That's probably overkill. My dad did hundreds of electrical connections over the years, And he never ever used any kind of connectors other than electrical tape. I'm not saying that's the best way to do it, but they're all still working fine and there's never been a problem in my mom's house. So yes, it should work fine with tape.

I'm answering my own post because I don't feel like editing. I didn't see initially that you said only one burner was clicking. So see if this switch is the issue. It's definitely within this video. Maybe the little prong that pushes the microswitch has a little grease or is sticking. I would check and lubricate That entire area. When you take the front panel off, you'll be able to see more clearly how the switch button gets pushed. So make sure it's popping back. And not physically pushing the switch for an extended period.

@@Andrew-jq3qb if you call my nonsense “diagnosing”! (But I’ll take it! ). Thanks for commenting to let me know. That’s what keeps me motivated. Hope you can get it fixed. Edit. I just looked and have the 92 page service manual as a pdf. If you need it let me know and i can send it to you if you can’t find it online

@@Samlol23_drrich I was able to find that, but it just isn't the same as watching someone go through the trial and error of checking each piece, it'll save me a lot of time thanks!

@@Samlol23_drrich My issue is that my spark won't stop even after the flame is lit. I've cleaned it thoroughly, and even swapped electrodes with another burner but the problem remains. I've researched that the thermocouple may be the culprit, but it's odd that it works enough to keep the gas valve open but not to stop the spark module. I need to test that next.

@@Andrew-jq3qb I understand but the switch sends a signal to the spark module. If it's normally opened and stays closed it will keep sparking. If it's not the switch, it must be the spark module.

@@G4LIFE74 that absolutely sucks. What year is the WRX? I got a 2023 and it appears to hold water everywhere after a rain or a wash. Especially inside the gas door. Unfortunately the Forester (which is sitting in my driveway unused for the last year) is starting to runs in the same place again. I’m not sure whether more water is getting into the same place (most likely) or I didn’t seal / remove all of the old rust. I thought I did. Thanks for commenting.

no, thank YOU For the nice comment. For the first year I had that pressure washer I thought it was broken Even though it's pretty high quality. It would work great for a couple of minutes. And then... The pressure would go way down I would let go of the trigger and then it would work again for a couple of minutes. And then it hit me that I didn't have enough water coming out of my Spigot. It's been working perfectly ever since. Thanks a lot for taking the time to comment.

@@atdower thanks. Bought it 20 years ago before prices went thru the roof. thanks for watching.