Mine isn't faint

Do you have the service manual? I've never even read anything that sounds like that

Thanks for commenting!

Thanks for commenting. Yeah, they’ve definitely been great so far. No issues at all.

No, they are two different faults. IO is “igniter open circuit” and IF is “ignition fault”. Here’s their service manual. See page .32 www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/uhs-heater-troubleshooting-guide.pdf. But thanks for commenting and watching.

@@Samlol23_drrich well mine first read SF then IF we changed the ignite n still not heating up

@lindalisten1516 did you have the service manual I linked above? If not download and follow the flow chart. It's great

Thank you for a really nice comment. They do make a dongle that will work over wifi, however both the mini and your primary unit need to be on the same network. It didn’t work because of the layout of my house, but it might work for your home. I’ve gotten a few comments from people that have used the wifi successfully. Thank you again for the nice comment.

I guess you didn’t read through the comments because I answered that years ago. of course it needs to dwell for at least 10 minutes to get into the coil and work on the dirt. The video is edited for time. I should have put a little chyron on the video mentioning that. Heck the stuff I bought isn’t even supposed to be washed off. Appreciate the comment though cause if I washed it off immediately you would be right.

There shouldnt be any surprises. Ive done this twice now. It really helps. Just make sure to be careful when you remove the sand. Id suggest using your hands when you get low so you dont break the " fingers". Apparently, if you unscrew the larger part of the drain on the bottom You can just spray water in there and the sand will come out but I was afraid to force it. Good luck!

@@Samlol23_drrich Our drain at the bottom was nowhere near the size of yours (I literally could not get my pinky finger in there). I did read through all the comments and I saw the one guy’s suggestion to do that … wish we could have. The fingers/laterals in ours were fat and rounds and looked like a cage. They were pretty sturdy. But we did take caution in those areas. We ended up getting down to those and in between them by hand scooping. Hubby and I took turns and it took about 2-3 hours. We then filled a little ways with water, loosening the sand we couldn’t get to so easily. Then we shop vac’d out the last of it - did that process about 3 times. It was obvious that this was way overdue. There was probably sand that was compacted and not even allowing water to penetrate. From beginning to end, the full process took us about 5.5 hours with the only breaks we took being when we alternated scooping. Again, your video was great. We have almost the exact same model. One note I’ll add for your viewers … we both ended up with skin irritation on our scooping arms. We don’t know if it was a reaction to the silica in the sand, or if it was little metal shavings from the opening that we were rubbing against while scooping. It definitely felt like little metal shavings, but can’t be sure. A good thick body lotion applied made it all better. If I could find a full arm neoprene sleeve or something similar, I’ll use that next time. Thanks for the quick reply! Great video!

Its incredible how many openings there are in something that sits outside. Rodents get into mine every year. No matter what i do. They seem to like the sides where the flow switch sits. Thanks for commenting

Glad it helped! Thanks for the nice comment, it made my day. (At least yours HAD instructions!)

@@Samlol23_drrich literally saved my day! 💪🏾

Yes, I believe it is. I’ll edit this post when my wife is around and I can ask her. She ordered them.

It’s a constant battle. I thought I sealed up my heater well, but this spring tons of acorns in there. The spa blower wires were shredded. I had to replace both high voltage wires. Just need to be vigilant.

Thanks for the video. Found mice nest and they chewed through the ignition sensor wire! 😡 I see that this video is 2 years old- did the steel wool help? Have you gotten any more critters since?

@CynthiaFeuer the steel wool didn't even help a little. Just before Memorial Day the water cleared and I went to test the heater- opened it up and at least 100 acorn shells. They were on both sides as well. There's really no way around it. They get into my central AC units as well. I even tried to seal up evert opening for the winter and they still found a way in. They actually got into the electrical compartment of my Spa blower this year. Whoever installed it put stress on the PVC and it cracked away from the housing. Maybe a 1" hole 2 feet from the ground. Well blower wasn't working so I opened it up and 2 wires were chewed through. Good luck keeping them away. You could try moth balls or poison...

Glad.

Not a bad idea. You don’t have a softener?

Yes. Just a regular union. The intention was to slightly loosen the union nut to raise and lower the outlet, but at this point the connection screwed into the filter is looser than the union and I’m too lazy to break out the big pipe wrench so I just let that connection screw in or out. It’s only 1/4 of a turn so it’s fine.

@@Samlol23_drrich thank you

@@AlexK07010 no prob. Good luck if you’re making one. I use it every time I service my pool and it’s so much better than when I used to attach to the skimmers. Directly. In theory you could just use a male adapter into the filter. Once it’s screwed all the way in, come out a couple of inches and then a 90 with a couple of feet to return the water into the pool. Then to raise it up, you would unscrew it from the filter. Of course at that point the only way to disassemble would be to cut the long piece, so I wouldn’t glue that to the 90. And it would be fine.

@@Samlol23_drrich yep in the process of making one. Ive been using my super pump with discharge hose but that looses too much water so just got the filter to recirculate it instead of wasting. I might put a 3 way valve on as well to be able to still use my discharge hose bypassing the filter

It absolutely is. I can’t drive around without a spare. Bad enough some vehicles have run flats- but to not use run-flat tires and not include a spare is an insult.

No problem. Glad it helped- Of course as usual. I got the idea to make the video after it was already installed. It would have been nice if I made a video actually installing it so I apologize

Holy cow I’m not positive so I don’t want to give you the wrong information. I THINK I had to buy a wifi dongle that I wound up returning because of the connectivity and distance from the router. I’ll rewatch the video. If it comes to me I’ll edit this post. Thanks for watching. It’s fantastic though. No different from the main box and system edit. Start watching at 1:20. Yes you would need a dongle and it needs to be on the same network as the main box.

@@Samlol23_drrich Thanks. Bet you never thought a question like this would come up.

@@blakstar64 you’re right but any questions feel free to ask and I’ll do my best to answer!

Me or the tile repair?? But seriously, yes still perfect

Someone commented that I had so much trouble with the transmission moving in both directions because my brakes needed to be replaced. I’m not sure if he was right, but I rigged my machine so it runs with the lid opened, and I see a big difference. Now as the agitator moves back and forth, the basket with clothes grabs in one direction so the basket slowly moves clockwise only about 3 inches per agitation and doesn’t go back in the other direction. It’s a one way slow spin of the basket, and all of the clothes now contact the agitator better.

They all came in the kit I ordered. It had everything including the sealant- but I think you now need to buy that separately.

You MUST use that. It’s not regular thread sealant. It actually glues the two halves of the metal bearing together. I’ll try to look and find exactly what it is and edit this post. Edit. Here it is. It’s very strong and made specifically for slip fitted cylindrical metal. It also cures without oxygen. next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/central-pdp.html/loctite-680/BP000000153464.html

Glad to help

THANK YOU! but what good is it doing under water on top of the spindle? It’s not in a position to filter anything. I could see if it was over a water pump inlet, or hose area, but it’s just sitting on top of that aluminum piece.

@@Samlol23_drrich the agitator creates water flow. as the water passes through it collects lint then when it spins it flings the lint off and down the drain

@@dougwright5014 thanks very much. You have no idea how helpful your comment and this response are. I use about half of the amount of soap than I used to after seeing that thing with caked on soap residue. Thanks again.

Did you buy the control yet? If not buy an exact replacement for what you have, turn the power off first and take the screws out that connect the controller to the electrical box it’s sitting on, and lift the controller off. You should be able to see the connection, it’s probably just 3 wire nuts. Maybe you’ll need a wire stripper too.

Thank you, I'll give it a try!

Thanks. Glad it helped and I appreciate you letting me know.

Thanks. Glad it helped- my dashcam is still going strong.

@@Samlol23_drrich From the Powercell you ONLY connect to ACC right?

@@segovianyes. You need a fuse that cuts the power when the car is turned off. I used the seat heater fuse.

The last thing I am is cheap. I service my oil burner and both of my central AC units because I’ve had “professionals” do more harm than good in the past. - I’ve got a 608 universal to do the AC legally. My unit is LP not NG. I plumbed and wired my whole house generator that also runs from my buried LP tank. Point isn't to say "look at all I can do" - the point Is if someone like me (I know what I'm doing) calls they shouldn't NOT help me just because I'm a HO. And by the way, if you've never heard a dentist say "I should have been a plumber and gone into HVAC"- well now you have.

Ya gonna make me Google it…….well you don’t scare me! Off I go. Thanks. Edit. Okay I’m back. That product looks perfect. However, my pan was more rot than solid metal. When I moved into the house the overflow pan in the attic was full of water. And it stayed like that for years. I didn’t know it was supposed to be dry. DOH. By the time I got the pan out it was like Swiss cheese. Next time if I catch a small leak I’ll try it. Thanks

I’m just glad YOU weren’t hurt. Thanks for commenting and for the kind words.

That's incredible! The only failures I ever hear about are guys leaving em in their trucks in the winter up north where they can freeze. You should send this directly to B&G. They should send you a brand new unit. Period. I'll keep it in mind though

@Samlol23_drrich the supplier I purchased from said they did contact B&G and their response was they would replace parts only....I told them I wanted a new one since it was less than a year old I was told no....I'm in Central Florida hardly ever gets below freezing and I take precautions if it does with my equipment and the cracked wand and cylinder happened in March and April never got freezing temps then...but I will contact them directly now that you mentioned it for sure

@@Freedom2219 you were right to ask for a new one. I would probably write a nasty letter to the company directly then move on. You never know.

I would start by making sure the breaker isn’t tripped and If it isn’t that the heater is getting either 240v or 120v

If it’s working just the display isn’t working, there are two display boards as I recall. One board is the actual display and the other has the buttons attached. So it’s either one of those or the main board isn’t putting power to those display boards.

Last comment. Check out my other video- go to the description where I put a link to the service manual. Follow the troubleshooting steps. The manual is really helpful. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qme2nH1spqyMjbssi=WQHxGfkLSCYmAKxR

What code are you getting? Are you comfortable using a multimeter? Check that the igniter is getting 120volts and it's heating up. If the board is sending 120v, it may just be an inexpensive igniter. Those are plug and play. The service manual link is in the description. It's very helpful.

@@Samlol23_drrich getting “if” for ignition failure. I’ll try the multimeter tomorrow and let you know. Frustrating that our pool is only 3 years old and this is the second issue with the heater. Luckily, the first one was covered under the one year warranty. Not sure if it matters, but everything was fine last year and this just started with our spring opening.

​@toddh2000 I was just looking. It's not the igniter. Did you turn on the Internal gas shut off? I would make sure that is opened and then I'd make sure all the fuses on the other board have continuity. Yuck.

@@Samlol23_drrich I tried measuring the voltage from the board going to the igniter during the ignition process and it never read anything above a couple of volts and I assume that was just static noise. Yes, the internal gas valve is turned on. I did also check the three fuses and they have continuity. I am guessing that this is pointing to a bad board? Also, throughout my testing, I did notice that the transformer again got very hot.

@toddh2000 when I replaced the igniter the board was sending 120 to the leads. However, it's possible something is failing before the igniter phase. So it wouldn't send voltage. Did you download the service manual in the description? That is worth it's weight in gold. It's really well done with color photos and everything. Take a look at that first.

Why do you say that? It's worked perfectly since.

Interesting comment. Thanks for sharing your experiences with them. I totally understand why their “policy” might be not to help consumers troubleshoot, and I would hate to think a company’s reputation can go down the drain based upon the poor judgement of one phone agent, but that may be what happened here. After this video got so,e traction, (and after I replaced the board), a couple of Hayward representatives actually reached out to me and asked me to contact them- which I didn’t do. You’ve been in this for years, so I’m sure you know exactly how to make a proper repair. But what about the guy who buys a truck, puts an ad in the local paper and has ten accounts? That guy may have no idea what he is doing, so for Hayward to make a blanket statement that they won’t troubleshoot with me, but will with him is downright foolish. I fix all of my own dental equipment, including some fairly complicated X-ray machines I have. I’ve had to call the manufacturer’s support on multiple occasions, and I’ve never been blown off the way I was by the phone rep at Hayward. I was pissed, and that’s why I made the vid. Yes, I still use so,e Hayward equipment, but when my heater finally fails I’ll think long and hard before I buy another. Sorry about the long response. Thanks again for your comment.

No issues at all. The material still looks brand new, remote still works perfectly. If I was doing it again, I would probably purchase the wind sensor with auto retract. We weren’t even offered that as an option, but I see it exists. I always worry that too much wind will harm the mechanism although that has not happened. Lastly, the awning motor randomly will make a clicking sound like the awning is about to start opening. But it doesn’t move. Not really noticeable and it’s literally for a split second. No idea why it does that. It only happened when the awnings are closed. . It’s so insignificant that I haven’t made any effort to see which awning it is. They’re still like new though. No fading, staining, no rips, and the mounting is still perfectly flush with the house.

Works great- right? Just ordered a new filter for mine. They get dirty fast.

@@Samlol23_drrich we spray the filters after every job. Does work great. I started at this company last Wednesday. It’s great. I’m servicing pools and life guarding when there is down time. You don’t need that run off pipe. Ours just drains right out the Hayward

@@Samlol23_drrich we wash them out at least once per pool. We do a couple! What’s your email? I want to show you the vacuums I use and chat more. I just started at this company and I need help “sinking the line” I put the pole with vac head and “tube” the “line” and then go hand by hand but I still find myself looking for a garden hose to just fill the “line” .. some of the jobs don’t have water.. so I just put the whole “line” in the pool and let the line fill and take it in and out of air to get water in the line that way like scooping water into it but it seems like not enough. I need to be able to keep up… that’s my biggest problem